I would love pics of the RX7. I had an 84 12a that some drunk ran over with a mid 90s two door full size blazer. I bought a 86 that we street ported and ran till the chrome lining peeled off the rotor housings a year or so later. I swapped a turbo II motor in place of the 13 but it had a fuel issues and blew a hole n a rotor
Looking for advice turning this into an auto-centric workshop.
- Thread starter RotaryLove
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RotaryLove
Active member
It’s in pretty rough shape but overall rust wise it was worth saving for a MN car. I tore it down to the shell about 5 years ago, been a pet project since. The past 3 years I’ve been working on it slowly when I have time, here are a few photos of the car over the years.
forgive my poor formatting, too lazy to scroll through thousands of photos to find them again.
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RotaryLove
Active member
Been busy trying to get some minor renovations done and the home ready for winter. An uncle gave me a huskee rider, got through a third of the yard and the damn thing stopped running and wouldn’t start again. Turns out it dropped both a guide and a seat. Getting that diagnosed took a couple weeknights.
This morning the grandpa in law gave me a hand replacing some broken and worn out electrical fixtures. Turns out the shop should be wired for more than a 50a sub panel. I’m concerned even 100a might be pushing it while running a 80gal compressor and plasma cutter side by side in the building, but im certain the 50a service won’t regardless
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This morning the grandpa in law gave me a hand replacing some broken and worn out electrical fixtures. Turns out the shop should be wired for more than a 50a sub panel. I’m concerned even 100a might be pushing it while running a 80gal compressor and plasma cutter side by side in the building, but im certain the 50a service won’t regardless
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TMcCay
Well-known member
I love my Rapidair 3/4" kits. The only thing I wish I had done is my or make a straightener for it. Also if you can install it when it is warm (80 degrees or so) it will unroll easier.
And it looks like you will have quite a big wiring job in front of you. If your shop is tied to the house main which I assume it is make sure that the main is large enough (200 amp or better). It cost me extra a month but my shop has its own service only because of the distance from the house and if I want later I could sell it separately. Both the house and the shop have 200 map mains.
And it looks like you will have quite a big wiring job in front of you. If your shop is tied to the house main which I assume it is make sure that the main is large enough (200 amp or better). It cost me extra a month but my shop has its own service only because of the distance from the house and if I want later I could sell it separately. Both the house and the shop have 200 map mains.
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RotaryLove
Active member
I've heard many good things about the rapidair kits, I'm certainly considering buying a pair of them. My current plan is some sort of DIY cooler setup off the compressor, maybe some solid line from the compressor to the main building and rapidair from there. My current "cooler" setup is ineffective, my M60 filter element gets absolutely soaked.
The garage is indeed ran from the home, the house panel is 200a. I should consult an electrician for sure. I don't know if it would be cost effective for us at the moment to get dedicated service, if I'm not mistaken the lines are buried.
Truthfully, if I had a blank check I'd find a way to completely replace the existing electrical with all surface mounted EMT Conduit. I think the interior of the building was wired for electric prior to insulating and finishing the walls, so the OSB is cut around the outlets. Some outlet shims and new faceplates might help hide that however.
ericm
Well-known member
The "1/2 inch" Rapidair is more like 3/8" ID. Even with my small 6 CFM compressor I can tell it has less flow than the 3/4 and 1/2" PVC the previous owner installed and I used for a while. My air impact guns don't have the same power.
My RapidAir also leaks. I can't leave the compressor on or it will cycle every 20 min or so.
My RapidAir also leaks. I can't leave the compressor on or it will cycle every 20 min or so.
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RotaryLove
Active member
Leaks are an absolute pet peeve of mine. Copper will be quite expensive, I don’t know how to sweat pipes yet either. A 10’ stick of type M by me is $33 each.
I don’t really want to go with iron because of our climate here in WI.
My compressor is a 5hp 22scfm (or 16.5, label says both. Can’t remember)
