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Looking for crack advice

BigGMC

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Dont' you love the titles where you're not sure what you'll find when you open the thread..... :D

Warning, this is a long one.

Anywho, asking for help from the flooring gurus and those who've had experience with products for concrete crack filling.

Some background:
My 32x44' 6" monolith pad was done last summer. It is 3500# mix with wire mesh and fiber additive, nearly 50yds worth. Sits on a base of well compacted gravel, 6 mil plastic, and 3" xps. Site prep required much material removal (cut into slope), but once down to grade, native soil was untouched. Pad was not control cut, suggested that it would be fine with the fiber additive. Was left up to me if I wanted it cut or not.

Hired a general contractor whom I've know for years and routinely does concrete work - sidewalks and 4" pads, not foundations ect. He performed all the site excavation/prep and did hire out to another local concrete guy (which is all this second guy does) to assist with the concrete portion as the GC didn't have enough men/forms/ect for job this size.

Placement happened early in the day. First two trucks emptied barely filling the perimeter haunch area - mix seemed super sloppy to me and I heard the contractors bitchin about how loose it was. I questioned about sending them back and was told it'll be fine. Dont know how much extra water was added, a slump was not performed - perhaps I should have demanded it.

Pad was power troweled and I was advised against covering with plastic as it would leave stains (guess what I learned, power trowling leaves markings anyway...). It was sprayed with a seal/cure type of product. Daytime temps in the 80's, next day temps climbed to low 90's. Worried about the bad advice and the hot weather, I sprayed with water and covered with plastic the next morning anyway. At that time, I noticed I already had some fine cracking from the corners of my rectangular drain. Figured they were curing cracks due to the fast set in the hot weather. Left it with plastic for a week.

Over the fall into the winter, I was developing more cracking in random directions. Currently, it seems that new cracks have stopped forming and exsisting ones dont appear to get any bigger.

In hind site, (after much reading on this site), I probably would have done things a bit differently and gone against the advice of the contractor.
Perhaps the "wet" mix left some weakness in the lower part of the slab. Maybe I shoulda put up the extra $$$ for rebar instead of mesh.
Shoulda done control cuts.
Shoulda pushed to have those two wet loads sent back (and requested slump test).
Shoulda covered right after trowling.

Perhaps these cracks are due to settling issues and none of the above would have helped. I dont know.

What's done is done

I will repair on my own and Im looking for advice on what product to use. I find alot of crack filler/repair type of products on the market.
Need to get them filled not only so I can seal the floor, but I also wash cars in here. Leaning towards a densifier type of product. I feel that will work best for my garage environment.

The following pics will give a better idea of what I'm dealing with.

Thanks in advance for info and listening to my ramblings.
 

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BigGMC

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We have a really good gel filler. http://legacyindustrial.net/cart/hd821-crack-sealant-gel-style-p-94.html

Your best bet is to chase these cracks with a "crack chaser" blade.

Blow out the dust, apply the filler. Excess can be ground off post cure and then sealed with your choice of products.

The really fine cracks can be "spackled" with the material vs. chasing.

Wouldn't more "bite" for the filler material be offered by the jagged nature of the sidewalls Vs. the smoother cut after chasing?

I'm seeing beveled edge and V shaped blades - how much would I want to grind out?

Does your filler allow movement and still maintain a solid bond (if things are still slightly shifting)

How does this product differ from the #829?
 

bigbadktm

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Here is what I have never understood; why would you open up a crack and make it bigger if you don't want to see it in the first place? I used to cut open all my cracks, and when I would go to do a clean and reseal, the crack would be a bigger mess than had I just left it alone. I chose to no longer open cracks to try and "repair" them. A crack is a crack, and if it's small don't make it bigger.
 

Shea

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Wouldn't more "bite" for the filler material be offered by the jagged nature of the sidewalls Vs. the smoother cut after chasing?

Most cracks are chased for a couple of reasons. The first is that the edges of cracks are inherently weak and sometimes soft as well. The repair is only as good as the weakest link and you don't want the weakest link to be a soft or brittle edge. The second reason is to provide fresh porous concrete for the filler to adhere to. You only need to grind deep enough to clean the edge up.

If you have a good filler with an elongation rate that allows for some movement, the last thing you want is for the filler to pull the soft and brittle edges away from the slab thus creating a secondary problem.
 
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BigGMC

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I would skip it and move on for now. Give it a couple years and if it still bothers you look at it then.

I would, certainly got other things needing to get done, but some are in a part of the floor that I wash cars on and I don't think its a good idea to keep filling them with water & dirt. Plus that same area gets parked on and being in the northeast, I don't want salt building up in those cracks.

bbk - While in Sam's club the other day, I noticed that the cracks in thier floor had been ground/gouged out with something before they were filled and I wondered why. I suscribed to the same thought as you. I got to thinking, that if its done in a commercial setting there must be a good reason for it.
I also noticed that the product used in that instance was solid, not at all flexible, I assumed it was an epoxy type of filler.
 
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SALIV8

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Grind out the crack to a V shape. Clean the crack and dust with a shop vac after this. once clean apply primer then add your backer rod or just caulk the opening with a good quality caulk from a contractors store...
 
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nolimits76

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LegacyIndustrial

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Most cracks are chased for a couple of reasons. The first is that the edges of cracks are inherently weak and sometimes soft as well. The repair is only as good as the weakest link and you don't want the weakest link to be a soft or brittle edge. The second reason is to provide fresh porous concrete for the filler to adhere to. You only need to grind deep enough to clean the edge up.

If you have a good filler with an elongation rate that allows for some movement, the last thing you want is for the filler to pull the soft and brittle edges away from the slab thus creating a secondary problem.


:thumbup:
 
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BigGMC

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86TURBOBUICK

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BigGMC, I hear what your saying, in this case was getting the floor ready for a finished surface topping, epoxy or tiles, not sure yet which, so in that case I did want it to be rock hard. I used a grey colored DAP product for the perimeter gaps where it met the foundation wall to the house, that product is flexible.
 
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