firefromabove
Member
- Joined
- Aug 14, 2012
- Messages
- 6
anyone got any good info on a clear coating for a brand new 26x44 floor?
looking for good clear coat for new floor
- Thread starter firefromabove
- Start date
1938flatty
Well-known member
I sorta asked the same question this week about a product my concrete guy recommended. It's called Tuf Seal J35 by Dayton Superior. I'm getting ready to apply two thin coats this weekend. It's supposedly gas and oil resistance and gives a nice shine, so I've been told. No one gave me any feedback this week on here ... so here goes nothing
Shea
Well-known member
The tuf seal and seal-krete products are both acrylic sealers. They work well for giving your garage floors a moderate amount of protection and a nice glossy look. The finish isn't long lasting like epoxy for example and will need to be re-applied every 2 or 3 years depending on how much traffic your garage sees. The nice thing about acrylic though is that it doesn't require extensive floor prep and is easy to re-apply. Plus it drys fairly quickly.
Just beware when they say it is gas and oil resistant. That is only if you clean it up fairly quickly. If you let it sit it will eat up the finish. You can read more about acrylics here if you like.
Just beware when they say it is gas and oil resistant. That is only if you clean it up fairly quickly. If you let it sit it will eat up the finish. You can read more about acrylics here if you like.
TUF SEAL J35
I am thinking of putting this on the floor of a hair salon as it seems to be the best option.
The floor is 5 years old but has never had anything applied.
I want to keep the concrete color, although I do understand it may darken some.
What prep is needed? I don't mind touching up the heavy use areas every 2-3 years.
Any reason why I should not consider this product?
I am thinking of putting this on the floor of a hair salon as it seems to be the best option.
The floor is 5 years old but has never had anything applied.
I want to keep the concrete color, although I do understand it may darken some.
What prep is needed? I don't mind touching up the heavy use areas every 2-3 years.
Any reason why I should not consider this product?
Did you grind the floor first? and polish before applying the bellatrix?
as per this video:
I was hoping to avoid the cost of having to pay someone to polish
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the best is a polyester polyurethane (LPu) but very $$$ and ends an epoxy primer. Next is a polyester polyurethane (LPU) also pricey and also needs an epoxy primer.
all the other one part 'stuff' are much lower in quality and performance. they are often what is sold with DIY epoxy kits because the LPU products would cost too much and due to their high VOC levels cannot be sold in may places.
all the other one part 'stuff' are much lower in quality and performance. they are often what is sold with DIY epoxy kits because the LPU products would cost too much and due to their high VOC levels cannot be sold in may places.
I dont want to do epoxy+urethane because of UV yellowing. That was my original choice.
ludakris04
Well-known member
I did and acrylic one as well, I went with Quickcrete. I figured it would be better than nothing and very easy..
I figured if I was going to do anything better in the future, it would require floor prep anyways, so if it doesnt resist everything it should still be ok..
I figured if I was going to do anything better in the future, it would require floor prep anyways, so if it doesnt resist everything it should still be ok..
AWoodwell
Active member
Urethane's shouldn't yellow, they're inherently UV resistant, that's why most are rated for outdoor use. Look at the data sheets for Original Color Chips HPU 747 two part urethane or Sherwin Williams Armor Seal two part high solids urethane and both recommend outdoor use. I'm doing my garage this weekend with SW Tile Clad HS Epoxy top coated with OCC HPU 747 and am not concerned with yellowing at all, as both are recommended for outdoor, direct sunlight application.
the urethane doesn't yellow the epoxy does. But, maybe there is another epoxy that doesn't I used epoxy-coat in my garage and was going to use them again, but they cannot give me any certainty that it won't yellow
However, regardless I do like the polished look, I was just worried about the chemical resistance, but I just talked with an installer an he said there is a top coat you can apply that should do the trick it is called atomic top coat.
AWoodwell
Active member
I don't know how SW warantee's their products from a yellowing standpoint, but going off the fact it's recommended for "offshore structure" use, my guess is that their Tile Clad HS Epoxy has at least some UV resistance built in. I found the product after watching some pro garage flooring installers use it on Youtube. After a quick trip to my local SW store, they said that yes, it is indeed what the contractors use on most of their warrantied work. So I was sold!
http://protective.sherwin-williams.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26226:product-6857
I didn't take the time to grind/polish.
My phone won't let me post pics,but check out my album. There's a pic of the finished floor
I just cleaned it up with a floor buffer before the densifier.
My rep said the more its used it will polish itself...
Its kinda hard to tell from the picture, how would you compare it to:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=2270036&postcount=24
Because that is the look I am going after, a semi to high gloss industrial type look.
I just talked with a polisher and they use the same product so I would probably trust it more than Seal-Krete, which is what was used in the link above.
Also, the installer recommended this product:
http://www.southernstainandseal.com/details2.php?prodId=104
Its expensive but it supposed to be like a urethane on epoxy and will protect the floor from hair dye stains which is my biggest concern.
If any of the pros could chime in and point me in the right direction. Just trying to figure out what I will be getting if I apply a densifier, sealer and top coat without grinding and polishing.
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If you will prep it right an epoxy/urethane system can't be beat.
If you want to get it done fast/cheap and don't mind recoating in the future then choose an acrylic designed for garage use. There is a big difference in these products so choose wisely.
If you want to get it done fast/cheap and don't mind recoating in the future then choose an acrylic designed for garage use. There is a big difference in these products so choose wisely.
Okay I think I am going to change my mind, I have done an epoxy/urethane before, so I know how to do it. I did an acid wash before so I am a bit scared about grinding, but have read a bunch about it so shouldn't be a big issue.
Is there a certain type of epoxy I should consider to avoid yellowing, I am scared the sun shining through the front windows of the store will cause yellowing. Mt garage is epoxy-coat and it has yellowed on the outside part, but I assume is fine on the inside. When I called them they basically say yellowing is a characteristic of epoxy so its a risk I would have to take.
Also, will the urethane hold its shine in the heavier traffic areas?
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It would look like that if I had a good steel trowel finish before I started.
The way it was explained to me was the ultra-hard densifies the concrete and then you can burnish it like a stone..then put on the bellatrix and polish it even more....
I can say that it definately make sweeping easier and prevents scuffs...
LegacyIndustrial
ALLIANCE MEMBER
We have great success with a wb clear epoxy covered in urethane. No complaints of yellowing. Standard Clear covered by HD356VOC.
However, (2) thin coats of polyaspartic-polyurea will never yellow and looks great over a stained/raw floor. Just need to have some bodies and move quickly.
Yes, the urethane and poly products do well with traffic, much better than epoxy alone.
almost no poly has UV blockers to prevent UV from reaching the epoxy and yellowing it. There are a few exceptions - auto clear coat is one. When I had my LPU poly reformulated with UV blockers it increased my raw material costs an shocking $10 a gallon and that was almost 10 years ago.
The good stuff is out there, high end clear coats with max UV protection. You just won't find it in the homeowner marketplace mass market forums.
The good stuff is out there, high end clear coats with max UV protection. You just won't find it in the homeowner marketplace mass market forums.