looking for ideas and opinions

[curbshopper]

I am about to finally construct new garage,opinion is needed on two things . Garage depth, I work on studebakers, Larks and a new arrival is a 1960 Hawk, with the longer hawk is 32 ft ample for front room work space. Obviously 34 is better, but may not be easily possible. Second opinion, my builder is suggesting footing , then lay blocks up to build the walls on. This is the first time i have let anyone build for me! I always dug my footings, and poured up for slab, with bolts. Seems like maybe a simple newby question, but is the block way cheaper, better, or other ?

 

[bad_idea]

I am curious about the answers you get, I am planning a garage myself.

My understanding is the block is preferable to get the wood further away from the soil.

 

[Boilerhouse]

I built my walls on a row of blocks and I am glad I did. Although it was not code, it was suggested by the building inspector. Some of my friends have their bottom plate right on the slab and it is starting to rot out.

 

[dmcintosh]

Adding a few courses of block will allow to have a higher ceiling height, given the same size lumber, but I would try to match the look of the house though, and build accordingly.

 

[matt_i]

As others have said, get wood up away from the splash and potential snowfall.

Keep an old dead tree dry and it can last 500 more years. But you don't see any 500 year-old dead trees laying around outside (unless they were petrified!)

Usual advice is to go as big as you can per budget and/or zoning-type restrictions. A good garage mind will figure out how to use the extra space.

 

[ard]

You pour or wall or you lay a block wall.... I am confused why people are saying blocks get the wood higher????

Is this being done with a permit? Make sure a block wall below grade is acceptable AND they build it such that it will withstand the freeze/thaw forces in IL.

Personally I'd do a pour wall with rebar, embedded anchors, etc etc. The pour an insulated slab later.

 

[larry_g]

You pour or wall or you lay a block wall.... I am confused why people are saying blocks get the wood higher????

Is this being done with a permit? Make sure a block wall below grade is acceptable AND they build it such that it will withstand the freeze/thaw forces in IL.

Personally I'd do a pour wall with rebar, embedded anchors, etc etc. The pour an insulated slab later.

I've noticed that a lot of the east builds up with block for the stem wall where in the west it is more common to form and fill with concrete for the stem wall. Either way you raise the wood of the stud wall above the grade.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[yeldogt]

The block will get you above grade -- good idea.

Spent much time in a 64 Lark convertible back in the 70's -- My friends dad loved Studebakers. They had a 50's President -- 57 GH ... I really liked the 64 Hawk they had.

 

[Firebrick43]

Poured walls are much stronger than a block wall. Many times there is little to no difference in cost either.

That being said don't try to have a builder do something unfamiliar to them and you. Mistakes will be made. Block has worked ok for a long time (as long as there is no expansive soil/poor drainage issues).
If you want poured walls contract that out to a crew that does that them have your builder build on top of that.

Don't forget icf for footings/stub walls either especially if you plan on heating in the winter. They look expensive at first glance but you don't have to add insulation after the fact, higher strength than both formed and block walls, and are pretty easy to do DIY for a stub wall in a rectangular building.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

Block vs poured is common. Be sure there is a connection between the footer and the top of the block so you have a solid attachment for your plate. Have seen columns of concrete from footer to top of block (in the core of the block)with rebar and an anchor bolt for the plate. Ask local inspector what is acceptable in your area. Just thinking out loud.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Garage depth, I work on studebakers, Larks and a new arrival is a 1960 Hawk, with the longer hawk is 32 ft ample for front room work space.

A quick look online said that car is 204 inches long, or 17 feet. So, if it's centered in a 32 foot garage that gives you 7 1/2 feet in front of and behind the car. Sounds like plenty of room to me. (I assumed inside dimension of 32 feet, if that's outside to outside you lose a few inches but that's still pretty good.)

 

[astroracer]

Like Stuart said, 32' is plenty deep. My shop is 30' wide and I have no issues with working room. Finished inside dimensions will be roughly 1' less then the quoted size for 2 x 4 walls, 2 x 6 walls will lose another 1/2 foot.
Some things I always recommend to new garage builders.
* If you think there will be a hoist in your future go 12' on the side walls.
* Look into attic or loft trusses for "almost" free storage space up top.
* Keep your overhead doors at least 4' off the interior walls (6' is better) for more storage and working space alongside the cars.
Mark