I am trying to remedy a clay soil problem surrounding my garage. I am planning on bringing in 1-2 inch roadbed for a start. I was thinking of pavers as part of the solution. I can pick up a few pallets of concrete block endcaps. 8x4x16 cap block that is manufactured for capping a fence. It's slump block. 180 pieces per pallet =160 square, picked up $150 each pallet. Anybody ever used something in this way? Any input on the type of underlay that would work in this application ?
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Looking for input on using concrete end cap blocks as pavers
- Thread starter sostahoe
- Start date
astroracer
Well-known member
Where are you located? The biggest concern I would have with the end caps is exactly what material they are made from and if it will survive being installed directly on the ground. If road salt and freezing is in their future I would have even more concerns...
Something to check into before spending money on something that won't work...
Mark
Something to check into before spending money on something that won't work...
Mark
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
What type of problem are you trying to remedy?
garagelogician
Well-known member
The block should be fine, but I might consider something else if it is going to see salt exposure. Is this just going to be for a walkway, or are you going to be driving over it? Do you have drainage issues?
I would excavate and put down geotextile fabric, a 6" (minimum) crushed stone base, then bedding sand. Anything less and you are going to have drainage and frost issues (if you are at a northern latitude). Make sure the subgrade and base is well compacted. Clay can be tricky to compact if it has been holding water. Amend the subgrade soils further (with cement or additional stone) if that is the case.
I would excavate and put down geotextile fabric, a 6" (minimum) crushed stone base, then bedding sand. Anything less and you are going to have drainage and frost issues (if you are at a northern latitude). Make sure the subgrade and base is well compacted. Clay can be tricky to compact if it has been holding water. Amend the subgrade soils further (with cement or additional stone) if that is the case.
1st,, thanks for the replies. What i have is a 30x33 metal building is located in Virginia city, Nevada. It is considered high desert. 6,000ft. I get snow in winters. The clay is across all access to the building, it becomes unacesable at the slightest rain, And when snow is melting. I have excavated for bringing in gravel. The local (experienced )rock delivery company is recomending I spread a few inches of 1-2" roadbed gravel, and just drive on it as it will get pushed into the clay, and re-apply as needed. I was thinking that "pavers" on the driveway would allow me too reduce the rutting , and spread the tire load.
Interested in creating a driveway, and eventually an10' apron surrounding the entire building.
Falling asleep at the keyboard got a get some sleep, here is a link to photo album history of my endeavor. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zSRyR1JIqwNBfGoO2.
Interested in creating a driveway, and eventually an10' apron surrounding the entire building.
Falling asleep at the keyboard got a get some sleep, here is a link to photo album history of my endeavor. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zSRyR1JIqwNBfGoO2.
dfiler2
Well-known member
They've been used for years as blocking under mobile homes. I would bet they would stand up fine as long as the base were properly installed.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
I'd start with a layer of larger (up to 8" rock, or even broken concrete if no metal in it). Compact and then a layer 1-2" with fines.
ard
Well-known member
I'm wondering if you have more of a 'water problem' than a 'clay problem'....
before spreading dollar bills on the ground, you should make sure surface and sub-surface water is drained WELL away from the building. Hard to see, but make sure there isn't a big field or pasture that may be funneling water towards you.
Road base should be fine, but I'd want a pretty thick layer, 6" min. Give it a couple of years to settle in.
If you keep water from running across the lot. Then force water failing down (rain, melt) to exit the area, you should not get a large amount into the dirt causing the mud pit.
before spreading dollar bills on the ground, you should make sure surface and sub-surface water is drained WELL away from the building. Hard to see, but make sure there isn't a big field or pasture that may be funneling water towards you.
Road base should be fine, but I'd want a pretty thick layer, 6" min. Give it a couple of years to settle in.
If you keep water from running across the lot. Then force water failing down (rain, melt) to exit the area, you should not get a large amount into the dirt causing the mud pit.
What a great resource this forum has turned out to be for My garage. What started as a question about using cement block as a cheap paver alternative, has generated valuable input to my challenges in many ways. From what I'm hearing, it sounds like the block is viable as long as an appropriate base is prepared, and it's not exposed to salt or very heavy traffic. My thoughts on the "paver' solution is that it could spread the load of tires, ect and allow the ability too be removed and replaced if I need to re-work the roadbase. ? As far as the Landscaping / ground preparation to handle my drainage amd mud problem, it may be better to create a fresh thread about that topic.
tapered-pin
Well-known member
put a 6" layer down of crusher-run (graded aggregate base), then roll out Tensar TX160 Geogrid, then another 6" of crushed stone.1st,, thanks for the replies. What i have is a 30x33 metal building is located in Virginia city, Nevada. It is considered high desert. 6,000ft. I get snow in winters. The clay is across all access to the building, it becomes unacesable at the slightest rain, And when snow is melting. I have excavated for bringing in gravel. The local (experienced )rock delivery company is recomending I spread a few inches of 1-2" roadbed gravel, and just drive on it as it will get pushed into the clay, and re-apply as needed. I was thinking that "pavers" on the driveway would allow me too reduce the rutting , and spread the tire load.
Interested in creating a driveway, and eventually an10' apron surrounding the entire building.
Falling asleep at the keyboard got a get some sleep, here is a link to photo album history of my endeavor. https://photos.app.goo.gl/zSRyR1JIqwNBfGoO2.
compact the top layer with a vibratory smooth drum make sure to overlap the geogrid as recommended.
you'll create a much more stable driving surface than using pavers..
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
I'm thinking geotextile material. Geogrid may or may not help if the moisture problem is as you say-
A little tutorial-
https://www.usfabricsinc.com/assets/pdf/installation/Separation_geotextile_install_15.pdf
A little tutorial-
https://www.usfabricsinc.com/assets/pdf/installation/Separation_geotextile_install_15.pdf