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Looking for removable concrete anchor techniques

CubbyChowder

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May 16, 2013
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175
Kind of hard to explain in a short sentence, but I am looking to find a solution to an idea I've had for my shop.

I'd like to have a stand that is anchored in the concrete floor, so that I can use my compact/tubing benders in an open space, but be able to "un-anchor" it and tuck it away when it's not in use. The layout of my shop is constantly changing and I don't want to permanently bolt a stand down and have it be in the way down the road.

It's also important to me that when it's not bolted down, there is minimal evidence of it being there. Almost all of my tools are on stands with casters so that I can move them around, so I don't want to have to avoid the area where my removable anchor solution is.

I guess what I'm looking for is some sort of permanent threaded sleeve that can handle having bolts threaded in and out over and over, or perhaps there is another way to do it that I am unaware of, which is why I am reaching out to you guys! Any help is appreciated!
 
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kd3pc

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Aug 10, 2013
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Northern Neck
not sure how much strength or shear they have, but swimming pool cover pop-up sleeves would likely work.

I have used bolts epoxied in to the concrete in the past and had good luck with that.
 

SilverSS1969

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Oct 13, 2011
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Location
SE MI
At work, for our computer stations at each CNC machine, we have threaded anchors epoxied into the floor. Then we can bolt and unbolt the stations to move them out of the way to remove the coolant tanks. Works good for us but you might want to get longer ones, our are only 2 inches deep.
 
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CubbyChowder

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May 16, 2013
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Will drop-in style anchors stay put when there isn't a bolt threaded in? Or are those supposed to be epoxied in?
 

RivennHewn

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PNW
Will drop-in style anchors stay put when there isn't a bolt threaded in? Or are those supposed to be epoxied in?



They are installed with a special tool to drive a wedge at the bottom, that expands the insert against the side of the hole.

Hole depth is critical, I suggest using the drill bit spec'd for the anchor size.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page linked.
 

RAMBIN

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Jan 5, 2006
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canada
They are installed with a special tool to drive a wedge at the bottom, that expands the insert against the side of the hole.

Hole depth is critical, I suggest using the drill bit spec'd for the anchor size.

Scroll down to the bottom of the page linked.[/QUOTE

with that system I would definatly put a bolt in the insert when your not using it to keep **** from filling the hole and threads...maybe u could look into a internal hex headless bolt so theres no head to trip over... probably didn't word that right but someone should know what im saying!
 

theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,121
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SE MI
Once we get some decent weather, here is my plan. I have 2 - 1/2" SS coupler nut joined with a threaded SS piece of bolt. Another 1/2" SS bolt about 3-4" long 1/2" and SS washer. I'm going to drill about a 2" hole through the floor, blow it out and then fill it with setting compound/epoxy. Push the couple and bolt down until the top of the coupler is flush. I'll probably put another bolt in the top just to prevent the epoxy from flowing into the top coupler while it is setting. Quick, easy, cheap.

If you want it flush when you are not using it "make" a 1/2 set screw.
 

Bondo

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Dec 22, 2007
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2,549
Location
Greenfield, Maine
Kind of hard to explain in a short sentence, but I am looking to find a solution to an idea I've had for my shop.

I'd like to have a stand that is anchored in the concrete floor, so that I can use my compact/tubing benders in an open space, but be able to "un-anchor" it and tuck it away when it's not in use. The layout of my shop is constantly changing and I don't want to permanently bolt a stand down and have it be in the way down the road.

It's also important to me that when it's not bolted down, there is minimal evidence of it being there. Almost all of my tools are on stands with casters so that I can move them around, so I don't want to have to avoid the area where my removable anchor solution is.

I guess what I'm looking for is some sort of permanent threaded sleeve that can handle having bolts threaded in and out over and over, or perhaps there is another way to do it that I am unaware of, which is why I am reaching out to you guys! Any help is appreciated!

Ayuh,.... My 1st thought is along the same lines as SM Racing, But,....

Insteada a 2" hitch reciever,.... A piece of 4", 1/2" wall box tubin' cast into the floor, 'n 3" boxtube bases for yer equipment,...
The 3" oughta slide in, glove-fit, into the heavy wall 4",...

A filler could be made outa the same 3" tube, for when the equipment is moved, just cut to length, tack a flat plate to 1 end, 'n drop it in,......

Bein' square tubin', it'll take any twistin' forces in play,...
 
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CubbyChowder

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May 16, 2013
Messages
175
Thanks for all the suggestions guys, so far I'm most interested in the drop-in anchors, they seem like the exact thing I am looking for. I'll do some research when I get home later
 

TBoone

Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
20
Location
Carnation, WA
I am and have been for several years running drop in anchors for my tubing bender. I have the same situation as you it sounds like. I have bent manually thousands of bends without the inserts loosening. I use the inserts that use 1/2" bolts. Could see them loosening but have not experienced this myself.
 

RivennHewn

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Jun 4, 2011
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10,370
Location
PNW
Following the manufactures instructions and getting a clean hole the proper depth is key to avoiding failure on the drop in anchors.

Installed correctly, there shouldn't be any problems.
 
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dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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12,711
Also interested.... but how do you actually prevent dust / dirt from falling into the screw hole .with if you screw in a bolt bolt it protrudes out right? don't you trip on it?
 

SilverSS1969

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Oct 13, 2011
Messages
188
Location
SE MI
Also interested.... but how do you actually prevent dust / dirt from falling into the screw hole .with if you screw in a bolt bolt it protrudes out right? don't you trip on it?

I'd use a set screw to keep it clear of dirt from falling in when not in use. Find or grind one to the depth they bottom. Something like this.
 

jonjon1

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Joined
Mar 11, 2015
Messages
1,036
A customer of mine has these course thread sleeves in the floor {kind of look like the threads on a screw jack, maybe 1.5"}, and he can screw down anything he wants... He actually uses it for a makeshift body pulling anchor point... Not sure where he got them, I haven't been there in years, but they work out nice, they are flush and they screw in and out fast...
 

vhol5

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May 24, 2011
Messages
358
Location
West Texas
Button head cap screw.
Low profile, hard to trip over...
 

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PaulyC

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Feb 8, 2015
Messages
35
Location
Quincy, MA
another vote for drop in anchors. i use them pretty much all day at work and have never had a problem. use the bright orange ear plugs to keep **** outta them til you need to use them and make them easy to spot
 

Kevin54

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Jan 12, 2005
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Urbana, Ohio
Cubby......not knowing how far you want to go with things, and how many things you want to bolt down, but if there is a considerable amount of machinery, and if you are willing to spend a little money to have your concrete cut, don't overlook a couple of railroad rails embedded upside down into the concrete.

My nephews business used to be a concrete, and excavating plant. They needed a place to work on their 'dozers when need be, so they poured an area with two railroad rails embedded in the concrete upside down, and flush with the concrete. That way they could run a dozer in and the treads were running on the steel and not tearing up the concrete.

Cut out a couple of slots, and find some used rail, and you can drill and tap it as necessary. One thing you would want to do is when there is no equipment on it, put setscrews in the holes to keep dirt out.
 
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CubbyChowder

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May 16, 2013
Messages
175
Just now seeing all these new replies, I think I'm sold on the drop in anchors. The foam earplug trick is pretty clever too, and perfect for me because I always have them laying around. Thanks everyone!

Kevin54, thanks for the idea but I think that is a bit overkill for my application
 

BBChevro

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Jan 24, 2014
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2,235
Location
Brisbane, Qld., Australia
I've been hoarding all manner of "potential dust caps" for years - from spray can lids of various sizes (for larger holes like radiator inlets/outlets) to actual dust caps from gas bottles (for keeping the dirt out of brake/fuel lines), but I've never given the foam ear plugs a second thought. :dunno:

I love this forum, thanks guys. :thumbup:
 
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