Looking for some budget outside micrometers

[ZekeTheSneak]

Looking for some budget micrometers but I don't want to regret them as soon as I buy them. Going to be rebuilding an engine and would like to be decently accurate. I need 75mm-100mm and 25mm-50mm. I could use murica units if I have to. Heard good things about mitutoyo. Will also need a dial bore guage as well for the cylinders.


https://www.harborfreight.com/Micrometer-Set-3-Pc-64202.html

These worth the metal they are made out of.

Thanks fellas.

 

[Professional Tool User]

If you can find some used Mitutoyo or Starrett micrometers at reasonable prices, that's an option. As for the HF ones, you should be fine as long as the standards supplied are good and the thimbles turn smoothly. If this is a one time use tool for you, HF could potentially get the job done.

 

[Ohmthis]

I agree with above about looking for used mitutoyo, Starrett, or brown sharpe. Those have historically been top notch brands. Are you wanting metric specifically? You linked to standard mics. Another brand that I feel is very good is Fowler, I have a lot of their tools (outside mics (0-6” mics) a dial bore gauge, and a depth micrometer) and feel they are really good for the money. What type of engines are you building? I have built many auto, marine, and small engines with them to great success.

 

[kctyphoon]

There are a few comparison vids on YouTube you can watch.. familiarize yourself, buy accordingly.

I have a neiko, but I’m not doing anything important with it. I’m happy with mine for my needs.

 

[davethorik]

If you buy HF mics, check to make sure they work. Some of them are seized tight new in the package. Not just HF, seen it happen to other cheap imports too.

And as mentioned above, check them to a known good standard before you use them. This goes for any mic you buy regardless of COO, used or new.

A lot of people think Fowler is a manufacturer, like Craftsman. Neither are. They just relabel things from other companies. Same with SPI, although SPI deliberately has the word Swiss as part of their name so you think you're getting a premium quality tool. Nope, just generic imported tools.

Older Starrett, Lufkin, B&S, Mitutoyo all good.

 

[ZekeTheSneak]

I'll look into this brands. Yah I mostly see them in standard but metric would be what I want to make things easy. It would be nice to find a whole kit from 0 to 100mm. Those harbor frights aren't big enough for the pistons I need to measure anyway so pretty useless right there. 86mm BMW goodness.

 

[gtjunk]

While I value a classic micrometer, one of the problems with getting an older/used one is unless you have some Jo blocks or a known standard, it's hard to be sure if they're accurate. Basic calibration is pretty easy with a standard, but ensuring the anvil is flat is more involved.

For the inexpensive route, HF are likely servicable as should be most of the Fowler branded ones.

 

[Spencer Was Here]

Where are you located?

If in or near Michigan, shoot me a PM and I may be able to help you out.

 

[thin_concrete]

I picked up a used set of Mitutoyos here for a very reasonable price given their condition. I have one of their dial indicators too and it’s top notch. Same for a separate Starret DI.

 

[Old Radar]

You don't mention a timeline on when you need them. If it is now or never, HF may be your answer. If you have some time, check out the estate sales in your area. I find mics frequently and at very reasonable prices. Barring that, there's always eBay--
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1.A0.H0.Xstarrett+outside+micrometer.TRS0&_nkw=starrett+outside+micrometer&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=outside+micrometer

 

[ZekeTheSneak]

Seattle Washington area. Thanks for trying! Yah I'll keep my eyes peeled on the used market. Leaning towards a used mitutoyo. No time is not a problem. This is going to be a side project depending on costs lol.


What resolution is safe for metric? .01mm or .001mm? Having a tough time finding anything over .01mm graduation. I will be measuring piston skirts, crank/rod journals.

 

[velillen01]

eBay is a great source for used micrometers....especially in the smaller sizes. Starrett is the most common there from my experiences and you can pick up the smaller size ones for 10-15 bucks plus shipping. You can find standards there too but I went with the kbctools ones.

Don't limit yourself to just one brand though. Luftkin and Browne and Sharpe are good ones too. They often sell for less than the Starretts too. I prefer the Starretts but it's what I've used the most....second choice is my luftkins.

As for needing metric...either just convert or find a service manual that has it in both. All my Toyota service manuals have the clearences in both metric and imperial

 

[ZekeTheSneak]

The BMW tis was enough of a pain in the *** to get for free. They don't have both, only metric. Same with torque specs. I can convert them all by hand though I get that part. Thank you I'm keeping my eyes peeled!

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

The very best mics are the Swiss made Etalon (sp). That's what the machinists say anyway. Stepping down a couple of notches. Yeah, I like Mititoyo over Starrett ,too. I have used and have both as well. Another small, little known Japanese brand that's good, is Kanon.

Some of the Chinese mics are clones of Etalon. My son picked up a set for work and he was pleased with them. Millwrights use mics, but they are used on site.

 

[hop up]

I second a good set of Mics and swapmeets are a great source for them. We used to buy the Chinese calipers for the shop but first piece of dirt or chip the caliper would jump track. A few mistakes as such and we threw them all out and use only quality instruments tools. I cant speak for the mics but would double check with a joe /gauge block .

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

It makes sense for you to work in metric. You are working on an engine, not in a machine shop. I'm no engine rebuilder, but I was shocked when I read the tolerances of these new engines. In tenths of a thou. So before buying a mic, check your factory manual.

 

[MShaw]

If you are checking used mics you really should have size blocks in .005" increments for .025". If the anvils are not parallel the reading will vary as you go around one .025 revolution. Also should spot check at each end and a few mid points in case they were used repeatedly at one dimension and have local wear'

 

[ZekeTheSneak]

What resolution is safe for metric? .01mm or .001mm? Having a tough time finding anything over .01mm graduation. I will be measuring piston skirts, crank/rod journals

If what I am understanding from YouTube videos when using metric .01 is very accurate and when you go to standard you want to go out to the .001 place?

 

[Packard V8]

Will also need a dial bore guage as well for the cylinders. Thanks fellas.

Zeke, give us more info as to what you think you'll be doing with the dial bore gauge.

Even though we've got a couple of the best (Sunnen) dial bore gauges for sale, I'm going to talk you out of buying one.

Setting a dial bore gauge using a hand-held micrometer is difficult at best and then you can't trust it to tenths. So you'll need a setting fixture for the diameters you'll be using.

Then, unless you've got a professional hone, just knowing the diameter of the cylinders doesn't help, as it has to go back to the shop for any correction. If you're having the cylinders honed, just put in writing the diameter you want and then have them show you the reading on their dial bore gauge when you pick up the block.

If you still want a dial bore gauge, PM me.

jack vines

 

[2oolhound]

I have a cheap bore guage (ebay about $50). It has a dial and measures in .001. It can be checked against a mic but really I'm just comparing top, mid and bottom dimensions fore/aft and sideways so it just needs to show the slight deviations of these readings. Sometimes I tear my engines down with only 500 miles on them or less even for various reasons and it's nice to see if the cylinders are going egg shaped and where. It helps me decide if I need to send it out for a rebore or if I can get away with a light hone and new rings. The one thing it doesn't tell you is how bad the bores are out of parallel. Before I had the guage I used to check these dimensions using a piston and feeler guages so for the cheap price they're worth having in my situation.

And this is garage journal, I cut the lid off my fitted plastic case and have it sitting in a thin drawer of my tool box. This one tool alone helped me justify buying a bigger tool box too.

 

[dagofast]

I have some made in Japan NSK micrometers from the mid-70's. They were even less money than the Mitutoyo brand back then but they've proven to be very well made and accurate. NSK makes many precision products including the ball screws found in many CNC machines. I believe the measuring tools are imported by Fowler these days.

 

[ZekeTheSneak]

Zeke, give us more info as to what you think you'll be doing with the dial bore gauge.

Even though we've got a couple of the best (Sunnen) dial bore gauges for sale, I'm going to talk you out of buying one.

Setting a dial bore gauge using a hand-held micrometer is difficult at best and then you can't trust it to tenths. So you'll need a setting fixture for the diameters you'll be using.

Then, unless you've got a professional hone, just knowing the diameter of the cylinders doesn't help, as it has to go back to the shop for any correction. If you're having the cylinders honed, just put in writing the diameter you want and then have them show you the reading on their dial bore gauge when you pick up the block.

If you still want a dial bore gauge, PM me.

jack vines

I have a spare block and pistons. I need to measure out of round, and taper. Then I need to measure the pistons I have to see if they are still within spec to the block. Hoping to get away with a light hone and reuse the pistons that I have from the same holes. There is still cross hatching and no ridge at the top. These BMW engines wear really well according to the forums but I'm taking that with a grain of salt. Alot of people don't even measure and just hone and boost away on a budget. Again I don't want to go off luck lol. If the tools are within budget I would like to measure the crank journals and bearings for when I install new bearing. I could also plastiguage to save money.

I'm thinking it's going to be cheaper just to take it to a local machine shop and have them measure everything to start and come up with a starting point. See if I need a different block from a different liter and have them bore out and hone to my current pistons or get away with using the block/pistons that I have currently. Dial bore guages for cylinders are pretty cheap/common on jegs but none of them are in metric... So idk if that will get me close enough on my own or if I should take it to a shop. Thank you to everyone helping. I'm trying to learn as much as I can. This genuinely interests me other then getting the car running well

 

[hop up]

What good about owning such tool you can use them for life. A good inexpensive way to measure the boar is a telescoping hole gauge( the blue package in the picture). They are cheap and will tell you if the boar is round. It’s easy you collapse the gauge and insert it into the boar. You then release the lock and lock it in place. Then you find a nice light friction point of the hole gauge and work it around the cylinder and see if its has the same friction thru out the cylinder. This is a old school method before fancy gauges and it works with a bit of practice. You then would measure with the micrometer with the same light friction. You can pickup a set of hole gauges for about 25 bucks a this 1 2 3and 4 inch starrett micrometer set can be had for 100 bucks .

 

[Downwindtracker 2]

While you can get within a .001" with telescoping gauges , it takes a certain "feel" . I've used them regularly since the early '80s. The Mititoyo style ones with both legs telescoping are much nicer to use then the Starrett with only one leg moving. Our maintenance shop had Starretts, so when I bought a set of used ones, it was Mititoyo clones made by Suzuki .

 

[Packard V8]

Dial bore guages for cylinders are pretty cheap/common on jegs but none of them are in metric... So idk if that will get me close enough on my own or if I should take it to a shop. Thank you to everyone helping. I'm trying to learn as much as I can. This genuinely interests me other then getting the car running well

A cheap dial bore gauge is good enough for what you're trying to do and look beyond Jeg's; metrics are common and don't cost anything extra.

Anyone want another example of why we can't trust the internet searches?
https://www.top5reviewed.com/bore-gauges/The 5 Best Bore Gauges [Ranked]This numbnuts blogger/flogger/click-baiter doesn't even mention Sunnen and that's the brand most professional automotive machine shops use.

jack vines