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Looking for some input on how to solve a problem

mayday0017

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I have to modify hundreds of pumps and can't decide how I want to go about it. I don't want to buy any machines at this time to do it, but really don't want to hand grind each one either as I have done before and it *****.

I have thought about taking a flush bit for my router (cheap bit) and grinding down the cutter close to bearing end (assuming bearing on top) so that it clears the lip closest to the bottom and rides along the part. If I did this and set the height right and used a simple jig to hold pump square I would think this would work. Just not sure how well you can grind away a router bit or if there is another better way of doing this.

So really I'm looking for input on how to do this quickly and ideally have it look like it came that way. Without much risk to damaging the pump as they are around $100ea.

So goal here to be clear is to remove the rib closest to the top and leave the one closest to the bottom. This would make it smooth shank, one rib, smooth shank.

<a href="http://s35.photobucket.com/user/JDMEF8SIR/media/0000.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d163/JDMEF8SIR/0000.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0000.jpg"/></a>
 
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mayday0017

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I like your thinking but that won't work, a drum sander on one does work that is how I have done it in the past. But I want a faster process that is more consistent as well.

The goal is to remove the rib not cut through the part.
 

justanengineer

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I'd use a boring head on the drill press with the bar turned outside-in. Cheaper yet you may get lucky and find a dowel or similar cutter the correct size too.


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mayday0017

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Took some time real quick to draw up what I'm thinking for a jig for the router method. I can 3d print this jig and would be strong and functional. Thoughts on this would it be quick and easy to change parts and do them. Also thinking once setup I can have someone else cut them since it would be a flush bit keeping them from messing up.

The final jig like this would have slot 1/2 way down the top to put hose clamp around to get tightness exactly right. Currently the gap you see is because it is tapered from top to bottom.

I am still open to ideas there are some good ones coming in i haven't thought of just moving forward with my idea to get more input while I learn from others. (don't want to sound like an askhole cause I'm not)

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Alchymist

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Piece of steel tubing that just slips over the tube. File/grind some teeth into the end, chuck in drill press.
 
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mayday0017

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Piece of steel tubing that just slips over the tube. File/grind some teeth into the end, chuck in drill press.

I understand your method now, basically you are saying make a plug cutter.

Plug cutter sounds like it might be the way to go... Only concern I have is how do I ensure it is lined up 100% perfect with each pump port so it cuts on center?
 
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Ign

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I understand your method now, basically you are saying make a plug cutter.

Plug cutter sounds like it might be the way to go... Only concern I have is how do I ensure it is lined up 100% perfect with each pump port so it cuts on center?

Make a pilot point like an annular cutter. If you can't spring load it, you'll just have to put it in the plug cutter each time, line up part, remove. This is assuming you're using a DP
 
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mayday0017

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Thanks for all the input understanding how to line things up for plug cutter option, the pencil sharpener idea sounds really cool be great to be able to sit on the couch watch tv and clean these up :)
 

bcradio

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You'd already be done if you had started sanding/grinding them instead of starting this thread.

I say get started on them now and you'll be done in no time.
 
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mayday0017

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You'd already be done if you had started sanding/grinding them instead of starting this thread.

I say get started on them now and you'll be done in no time.

It also would look like someone took a grinder to them I have to do these in large batches. Would like them to look identical each time so our customers don't start thinking of us as a business that does half *** work. Lots of good options here that wouldn't have crazy setup times and would allow you to blow through them very quick and precise.
 

texasfiremedic

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Is the pad/filter removable? If so 3d print a jig and use a roto broach. Use the stops a drill press to set depth. Use the jig to auto align and go. Use a two piece jig. One to align the pump using the pump inlet and one to center it on the broach. This should make for better set up time. since you have a 3d printer.

Also need the know the outside diameter of the outlet.
 
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the gypsy

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Have you thought about a tube cutter or scissor like the ones below
 

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larry_g

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I have seen the tool you need in a metal working catalog. It is a modification of a counter bore tool where it has a guide in the middle and cuts on the outside of the hold making a raised boss. Kind of like a tenoning tool with a plug in the middle to keep it concentric with a bored hole. Look up a counter bore tool with a changeable guide pin.

on edit;
What you are looking for is a hollow mill, specifically a piloted one. here is one from a speciality manufacture, http://www.severancecanada.com/inde...tails&productid=85&cat=5&subcat=11&subsubcat=

I'd suggest that you search out a hollow mill and see what they are then search on a piloted hollow mill. For what you are doing you probably could hand drive it.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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