Looking for the right combination for Garage Floor coating...

[AlexWhite532]

Hi All!
I'm new here... I was gonna have this long introduction, but I don't want to bore everyone before I get my question answered, so here goes...

As I've been researching, what I've come across is epoxy bonds best to concrete, over polyaspartic. However, polyaspartic is more durable and doesn't yellow. If I use epoxy alone, it's susceptible to yellowing, peeling and hot tire pickup. From past experience, I know this is an inevitability. Polyaspartic will alleviate these problems, if I use it as a top coat ONLY, while using the epoxy for the best adhesion to the concrete, base coat. Does it not make sense to do it this way? I've pretty much ruled out using polyurethane, as that seems to be best for interior usage.

Another problem I've come across is there doesn't seem to be a cost-effective epoxy-base, polyaspartic-topcoat FULL SYSTEM in existence, which is kind of forcing me to use two different products. I know I can put the polyaspartic on top of the epoxy with good prep, but what would be possible pitfalls to using products that weren't formulated by the same company? I've looked into Ben Moore V530/V531, but the Polyurea (V530) is prone to yellowing according to the TDS... On the other hand, I'm REALLY digging the drying time - same as latex paint!

I'm still looking for insight and still researching, but any advice is much appreciated!!

 

[Shea]

Hi All!
I'm new here... I was gonna have this long introduction, but I don't want to bore everyone before I get my question answered, so here goes...

As I've been researching, what I've come across is epoxy bonds best to concrete, over polyaspartic. However, polyaspartic is more durable and doesn't yellow. If I use epoxy alone, it's susceptible to yellowing, peeling and hot tire pickup. From past experience, I know this is an inevitability. Polyaspartic will alleviate these problems, if I use it as a top coat ONLY, while using the epoxy for the best adhesion to the concrete, base coat. Does it not make sense to do it this way? I've pretty much ruled out using polyurethane, as that seems to be best for interior usage.

Another problem I've come across is there doesn't seem to be a cost-effective epoxy-base, polyaspartic-topcoat FULL SYSTEM in existence, which is kind of forcing me to use two different products. I know I can put the polyaspartic on top of the epoxy with good prep, but what would be possible pitfalls to using products that weren't formulated by the same company? I've looked into Ben Moore V530/V531, but the Polyurea (V530) is prone to yellowing according to the TDS... On the other hand, I'm REALLY digging the drying time - same as latex paint!

I'm still looking for insight and still researching, but any advice is much appreciated!!

It's great you are doing your due diligence. This is what leads to great applications that last years. However, some of your conclusions may need a bit more info.

"If I use epoxy alone, it's susceptible to yellowing, peeling and hot tire pickup".

Yes, all epoxy is susceptible to yellowing at some point. How soon and how yellow all depends on the quality of the epoxy. Only your low-quality, low solids, home improvement store epoxy kits such as Rust-Oleum, Quikrete, H&C Shield-Crete, etc. will peel from hot tire pickup and wear out in a few years. Peeling (not the same as hot tire pick up) of epoxy is due to bad prep. Even the low-quality epoxy won't peel if applied correctly. Commercial quality high solids and 100% solids epoxy will not peel from hot tire pickup - especially when the concrete is prepped properly and an epoxy primer is used. In addition, it provides for a much thicker build coat than other coatings.

However, polyaspartic is more durable

Not all polyaspartics are the same. There are some polyureas that perform better. Many high solids polyaspartic coatings are not recommended for DIY. They cure very fast once mixed and have a typical pot life of 20 minutes or less. Experience is highly recommended and two people for application if more than one batch is required for a single coat. There are some exceptions with slower curing formulations.

However, using a polyurea or polyaspartic for a top coat is preferred for some of the reasons you have stated. An epoxy primer, high solids epoxy base color coat, optional color flakes, and polyurea or polyaspartic top coat/s create some of the most durable coatings. These are sometimes referred to as hybrid coating systems. There are quite a few vendors who sell systems like these.

You are not going to find them in home improvement centers or typical national brand brick-and-mortar paint stores. They are available from concrete coating vendors that sell their products online. One particular system that is a good value is Roll On Rock by Versatile. You can read about it below.

We Review the Roll On Rock® Epoxy Garage Flooring Kit

Learn why Roll On Rock® is one of the better DIY-friendly garage floor coating kits that deliver good performance and value.

allgaragefloors.com

Legacy Industrial, Garage Flooring LLC, and ArmorPoxy are examples of vendors who sell such systems as well. They all participate here on the GJ and can provide pricing also.

 

[benjy]

Is your concrete placed?

I need to do a writeup on my experience with color hardener and the pros & cons based on my experience so far. With color hardener, the color is part of the concrete, add a sealer and you're done.

 

[FJ4FUN]

We offer Wolverine Coatings' high build epoxy systems. These are industrial grade products which are only available to the general public through us at AlphaGarage. Wolverine Coatings advanced formulations provide best-in-class color retention, impact and abrasion resistance. Contact us directly, we'd be happy to answer any questions that you may have.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
If you want an epoxy system that won't yellow and meets your needs based on your research, consider using an epoxy primer, epoxy mid coat, full broadcast of flecks (flecks don't yellow and they cover all of the epoxy) and then two coats of polyaspartic topcoat. Armorpoxy can put this together for you as a kit so you would have a single supplier, please contact us at below (Not PM please) for assistance and quote.

We also sell our non-yellowing one part SPGX Polyurea coating that can be done with medium broadcast and also won't yellow.

Thank you.

 

[B.C.Biker]

Is your concrete placed?

I need to do a writeup on my experience with color hardener and the pros & cons based on my experience so far. With color hardener, the color is part of the concrete, add a sealer and you're done.

Please do. I find this interesting. Seems like no fuss, durable and cost effective. Yet for some reason it's not real common.

 

[benjy]

Please do. I find this interesting. Seems like no fuss, durable and cost effective. Yet for some reason it's not real common.

Sorry for late reply, too many projects & time spent at work, link below should be the album for my build, added a few concrete photos showing the process.

I'll update when I clear out some space & prep for another coat of the clear coat. Also need to add some pics of damages, stains, etc.

Brake fluid isn't good for the floor of left there overnight due to a leak. 6" USA made vices can chip the floor. Troweling leaves just under the surface will show up in time.

30x50 Houston Build

www.garagejournal.com