Looking for Work bench top ideas

[alex2929]

Looking for ideas for a work bench top. I always planned to use bowling alley. I am struggling to find it local or prices reasonable. Anyone have good ideas?

 

[inphx]

I think newer bowling alleys also went to veneer surfaces especially outside the ball drop zone. Do you have a "Floor & Decor" in town? They have good prices on solid butcher block counters.

 

[Jackfre]

What kind of bench are you making. Metal work, wood, general automotive, all of the above? How big do you want it? Against a wall or free standing? Sorry for the questions, but it may matter. I’ve used plywood, mdf, metal plate, etc.

 

[alex2929]

It will be against a wall. I Intend to have a shelf below it for storage. I like to tinker with everything. I do have a couple nice steel tables for most of my metal work though

 

[tool_scrounge]

Look for used butcher block tops from house remodels or work bench tops on Craigslist for Facebook marketplace.

Depending on the size needed. IKEA sells butcher block topS. Just make sure you get a a flat one.

 

[DGersic]

Looking for ideas for a work bench top. I always planned to use bowling alley. I am struggling to find it local or prices reasonable. Anyone have good ideas?

Post in thread 'Garage / Workbench Photos?'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/garage-workbench-photos.498282/post-9786812

My mobile bench, from a few years ago. Top is face glued 2x3 studs, wrapped by 2x4 studs, and topped with 3/4” plywood. The 2x4 around the edges have a 3/4” rabbet for the plywood.

It’s heavy, and solid. Size is limited only by the wood you can buy. Lots of clamps needed to glue up the stack of 2x3, and you’ll want to get the straightest ones you can to make this easier.

 

[andyvh1959]

Local Restore has plenty of take off and some brand new Formica counter tops, the type made with 1" Hardboard (heavy). Could use it as is or perhaps trim off the backsplash portion (if so equipped) and install it upside down. To get the desired depth use two sections and glue/clamp them together. I also see a lot of old sold wood doors at Restore facilities. The old solid cosr smooth doors are easy to cut to size as needed, and could also glue/clap multiple sections together.

Old pallets are nearly free wood. Break them down to get the thicker base pieces and cut/glue/clamp as needed to make a frame/base.

If needed for mechanical work, after using countertops or sold wood doors as the base, go to a sheet metal shop and have a one piece metal top made from 12ga steel. Just keep it "treated" occasionally to avoid rust. My workbench in my attached garage I got free from BIL, made from the sheet metal leg set from Menards, with a built up top of 2x6s. Put a sheet metal top on that, had it made in a customer's metal shop. Unplated sheet steel in the garage since 2005, no rust to speak of.

 

[f4 plt]

Depending how large you want I got a laminated maple top from Uline

 

[LeeG]

Years ago, I was in Home Depot and they had a whole pile of 2x6’s they had cut to 4’ and then didn’t sell, so they were on the scrap rack for like $1 each. After letting them dry, I’d cut them up, jointed and planed them, glued them up and built this small bench. It is all I had room for, and has served me well.



Its all mortise/tenon joints - no fasteners other than glue.

Lee

 

[Skellyii]

I got REALLY lucky, especially since I needed a couple of 32" deep worktops. Habitat Restore just happened to have a couple of brand new solid code doors in the proper sizes.

Pictures in my garage build.

 

[Fixr]

Local Restore has plenty of take off and some brand new Formica counter tops, the type made with 1" Hardboard (heavy). Could use it as is or perhaps trim off the backsplash portion (if so equipped) and install it upside down. To get the desired depth use two sections and glue/clamp them together. I also see a lot of old sold wood doors at Restore facilities. The old solid cosr smooth doors are easy to cut to size as needed, and could also glue/clap multiple sections together.

Old pallets are nearly free wood. Break them down to get the thicker base pieces and cut/glue/clamp as needed to make a frame/base.

If needed for mechanical work, after using countertops or sold wood doors as the base, go to a sheet metal shop and have a one piece metal top made from 12ga steel. Just keep it "treated" occasionally to avoid rust. My workbench in my attached garage I got free from BIL, made from the sheet metal leg set from Menards, with a built up top of 2x6s. Put a sheet metal top on that, had it made in a customer's metal shop. Unplated sheet steel in the garage since 2005, no rust to speak of.

Our local ReStore fairly often has used butcher block tops, usually for $25-$35. My workbench is a solid core door on a pair of cast iron legs that I've had for so long I don't remember where I got them.

 

[RMERR]

I've used maple butcher block, MDF, plywood. Have a steel and Aluminum as well. Maple looks good, will last many years , can be resurfaced. MDF can be replaced cheaply to freshen it up.

Be careful with the bowling alley stuff. I bought a couple slabs with the same idea only to find out it was constructed with tongue/groove, but assembled with glue and nails holding each strip to the adjacent one. They alternated the spacing of the nails on each strip, so there were nails basically every few inches which you really couldn't see. It also "cupped" when I removed the steel crosswise 'T' rails on the underside. Gave up on the idea, they ended up in the truck on a dump run. If it's flat and constructed without nails (as I'm sure many are) they are thick and look good.

 

[ZRX61]

Trailer decking:

Trailer Decking | Trailer Flooring, Stains & Accessories

www.trailerdecking.com

 

[jayemm]

Maybe consider tempered masonite.

 

[niget2002]

I use 3/4" plywood. I put a 1" edge around it with the lip on top. Then I slide 1/4" hardboard into the recess. I don't glue the hardboard down. After I spill a bunch all over it, I pull the top off and replace it.

 

[driftpin]

I used a piece of CDX 3/4" plywood, ripped lengthwise, then glued & screwed together. I bought from the local steel supply house, a 2' x 8' x 24 inch, 3/16" thick mill-finish steel sheet. That was through-screwed to the now 1-1/2" wood underlayment, and the steel legs of the workbench.

 

[walta]

From what I can tell after the drop zone bowling allies are generally made of pine. Soft and not so good as a bench and generally very expensive

I have several benches and each is great for different projects. One has a 4-inch-thick cast iron top It is perfect when I want to beat on something. 100% of my energy is deliver to the project. Another is for woodworking with non-electric tools. Its low hard maple wood top let me get my body weight over and behind the tool. The electric wood working bench is much taller so I get a better view of what I am doing its top is two layers if plywood. The Corian bench is great for wooden glue up and electronic. If I worked on grease stuff a sheet metal top would be great.

How will you use the bench? Form follows function.



Walta

 

[Boogerman]

Solid Core doors. Many have a surface similar to laminate countertop. If you can get new, surplus doors without holes drilled, it's great. Often, you can just cut to width because you don't need 36" width, and eliminate holes. Put a wood edge on the front of the bench/door edge. Try Habit Restore for easy cheap way to get them. Or facebook or craigslist.

 

[CraigStu]

Maybe a little unusual but I'd take a walk through your L or HD luxury vinyl tile flooring section. The variation in colors and surface finish is astounding. Build from 2xs or double 3/4" plywood and cover w/ the tile.

 

[Numerator2142]

I went with 2 layers of 3/4" plywood topped with Masonite for the easy refresh.

My ReStore ***** so no solid core doors or good counter takeoffs.

 

[pelletman]

You can find bowling alley if you are patient. CL, FB

 

[Dagny]

I have white oak 2x10s but don't matter cause there is so much stuff on it I can't put my coffee cup down on it.

 

[Jackfre]

3/4” tempered hardboard, a couple layers laminated over a good grade of 3/4” plywood, finished with boiled linseed oil makes a great top. The BLO doesn’t give a hard finish but enough protection that pretty much whatever you spill on it can be wiped off. Cutting down a 4x8 sheet of THB will leave you plenty of off-cut and you will be amazed how useful those will be.

 

[JAYoung]

I cheaped out and used a box of leftover laminate flooring from ReStore -- just floated it on top and locked it in with aluminum molding.
It's been three years and seems to be holding up well to abuse and spills.

 

[sjvicker]

for the past 4-5 years I've had a counter top that was a decent quality laminate flooring glued to subfloor. It hit the right price point and durability for anything I've thrown at it and is easy to replace when the time comes.

 

[PoorUB]

I just use a piece of laminate countertop. Surprisingly, it holds up very well. I think I am on my second top on 30 years.

I like the back splash so tools don't fall off the back. plus the laminate is water and oil proof.

 

[ccrrar]

I remodeled a kitchen and used the old Corian for my bench top.

 

[rocksnstumps]

Lotta folks already mentioned the countertops from kitchen remodels but I have also seen laminate desk tops being offered on CL or FBMP and they are usually a little thicker like 1-1/8" - 1-/4" and rather heavy. They are typically a lot cheaper than the bowling alley reseller ads.

I got a couple dozen herman miller desk and benchtops in various sizes for a whopping $1 at an industrial auction. Several went to shelving material already and a bunch are slated to be pallet rack decking. Sometimes good deals can had because you have to take a whole pallet of stuff instead of onesy twosy amount. I was already going to pick up some metal cabinets I won so just picked these up at last minute cause no other bids. But like I said you can find em cheap on CL for just one from flippers.

 

[BTL-A4]

For my workbench I glued and screwed 2 pieces of 3/4" MDF together and put a piece of 14 Ga steel sheet screwed in on top of that. I mounted it to my tool boxes.

I have another bench with machine tools on it (lathe, grinder, bandsaw, sander and another bandsaw) with a top made of laminated plywood, screwed to a metal frame that is bolted to the wall and also mounted on 4x4's.

 

[cnc-me]

Maybe consider tempered masonite.

I had a bench with that stuff, painted, it did pretty well. Eventually I covered it in steel, like that much better though.

 

[bdbecker]

Until I stumbled onto a deal on some 3/16" steel to use as my workbench top, I was planning on installing utility grade oak flooring on my workbench.

R.L. Colston 3/4 in. Utility Oak Unfinished Solid Hardwood Flooring 2.25 in. Wide | LL Flooring

Buy R.L. Colston 3/4 in. Utility Oak Unfinished Solid Hardwood Flooring 2.25 in. Wide at LL Flooring.

www.llflooring.com

 

[AlNH]

in New England there’s a chain store that sells insurance buyouts and other oddball items, Ocean State Job Lot. On their website the have butcher block in 25x48x1.5” pieces. They’re $260, but when you buy them you get a gift card for $260ea, so free in the end. Theyre just the thing for my 2’x8’ workbench

 

[kgorman]

Woodcraft

Laminated Maple Bench Top - 1-3/4" x 30" x 60" - 88 lbs​

Item #145686 Model ANA06030

 

[njk4o5]

home depot has 8'x25" 1.5" thick butcher block for $180 thats what im going with. Especially buying it tax free in NH and using a 10% off coupon.

 

[John in OH]

I use 2x8 lumber for the top base covered with a sheet of 1/2" high-density particle board. Design your bench so the particle board can be replaced. After a few years when the top is all beat up, stained and oil soaked, just remove the particle board and replace with new material.

I'm not talking about particle board sheeting ... I'm talking about the material that looks as if it is made of densely packed sawdust. There is a name for it but I don't recall what it is. Smooth, dense and makes a good sacrificial top.

 

[Bucko]

I needed some butcher block tops for a project I had and wanted them in 12' lengths. Lowes and HD only had them up to 8'. I was able to find them and floor and decor for a much better price than anywhere online due to the shipping charges. I did have to order them and wait a few weeks but they had sample boards and smaller sizes in-stock to look at. They were also available in several species of wood.

For the woodshop area of my shop I just make my tops similar to niget2002 and use 3/4 ply with a egde band and tempered hardboard/Masonite for the top. The Masonite makes for a very smooth surface and is very cheap to replace, if its not beat up to bad you can usually flip it over and extend its use.

 

[Fixr]

I use 2x8 lumber for the top base covered with a sheet of 1/2" high-density particle board. Design your bench so the particle board can be replaced. After a few years when the top is all beat up, stained and oil soaked, just remove the particle board and replace with new material.

I'm not talking about particle board sheeting ... I'm talking about the material that looks as if it is made of densely packed sawdust. There is a name for it but I don't recall what it is. Smooth, dense and makes a good sacrificial top.

Medium density fiberboard/MDF? Although true particle board IS densely packed sawdust. I've never seen that used as sheathing, but some people refer to Oriented Strand Board/OSB as particle board, so it can get confusing.

 

[engineer2]

Big box stores sell all kinds of workbench countertops.
10 years ago I bought a cheap 8-foot formica countertop to use for my garage workbench. No worries if it gets beat up.
Just last week I was testing my brad nailer and shot a brad through a 2x4 scrap and into the countertop, LOL.
I clean it with a razor blade and/or solvent. If it wears out, I'll just get another one.

 

[NUTTSGT]

3/4" plywood painted black to hide the stains.

 

[lolaetype]

MDF can be replaced cheaply to freshen it up.

I have two Craftsman steel workbenches that came with wooden tops each one about 24"X60". When the tops got really chewed up I replaced them with with MDF. Before use I applied multiple coats of cl;ear polyurethane to the tops and edges. I kept applying it until it stopped soaking in; maybe 15 coats. That made the surfaces pretty hard, waterproof, and resistant to most car related chemicals. I also coated the underside with about 3 coats. I don't do heavy, nasty work in that top. I have a galvanized steel topped bench for that.