Looking into getting more tools, what should I look for.

[88F250]

Hey all, I'm a Senior in High School (planning to go to college for Mechanical Engineering Technology) and love to work on things. I do small engine repair for my friends and neighbors, restore vintage/classic garden tractors, and also work on the few farm tractors our family has as well as my Grandfathers old truck that is now mine after being sold out of the family 8 years ago (88F250, incase you couldn't catch on to that) I work in the summer and when ever I find time in the school year at a local tractor and power equipment dealer setting up new equipment. I am wondering what are the best middle of the road tools and a couple of my own problems I have come across.

I have nearly all sockets from Kobalt (Taiwanese origin) 6 and 12 point, deep and shallow for 1/4 and 3/8 drive. However for 1/2 drive kobalt only makes 12pt sockets in regular chrome and 6pt in the impact variety. Do you think That it would be alright just to get the 12pt regular and 6pt shallow impact? have any of you run into a clearance issue with using an impact socket on a regular ratchet or breaker to break a nut loose?

My 12pt combination wrenches are cheap ones from china. They have served me well and would like for these to be a spare set. I have noticed a lot of nice mid grade things come out of Taiwan, I found these. They dont skip a size and offer a large range.

http://tekton.com/Wrenches/Combination_Wrenches/30-pc-Combination-Wrench-Set-1-4-1-in-8-22-mm_2

For a second set of sockets, I found a 299 piece craftsman set, but they have appeared to switch to china mfg. and have more complaints of chrome chipping and rusting, so for that i would consider this a down grade. this is the only set I could find that has 6 and 12 point, a large range of sizes and in the 3 major drive sizes, do you know of similar kits by another company of better quality? I have done some shopping around but couldn't find much in larger sets. Help and direction appreciated!!

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have nearly all sockets from Kobalt (Taiwanese origin) 6 and 12 point, deep and shallow for 1/4 and 3/8 drive. However for 1/2 drive kobalt only makes 12pt sockets in regular chrome and 6pt in the impact variety. Do you think That it would be alright just to get the 12pt regular and 6pt shallow impact?

You sound a lot like me at that age !

The answer is NO ! Like me, you work on older items and 12 point will round off a fastener in a split second especially with 1/2" drive. Above 1", then you can use 12 point.

When I started my collection, about 50 years ago, I had all Craftsman. Reasonably priced, made in the USA and readily available (especially when I started working at Sear part time). I waited YEARS for Craftsman to finally come out with deep SAE 6 point sockets. No regrets.

... have any of you run into a clearance issue with using an impact socket on a regular ratchet or breaker to break a nut loose?

No because I own 6 point sockets and don't have to use my impacts. Someday, it will be a problem.

Almost all new Craftsman tools are from China and the quality is not as good as it was 20+ years ago.

 

[kctyphoon]

The craftsman ultimate socket set is by far the most for the money.. When they go on sale it winds up being about $1 a socket.. For what your doing, I would get them. Are there better brands ? Yes.. I have that set that's gotta be over 20 years old, granted mine are USA made, but I lost a bunch over the years and replaced the missing with Chinese craftsman. The finish is not as nice inside some of the sockets, but honestly, they work just as well.. When people talk about "lost quality" from craftsman going to Chinese sockets, they are most often regarding the FINSH (inside the sockets mostly) and not the function. Unless you plan on storing you sockets in a bucket of water, they won't "rust away" on you..

You're young, so you stand to benefit alot by buying quantity over "top quality" Koblat, craftsman, husky , HF, ect - will all work just fine for you. I almost bought the chinese set myself cause I was missing a lot of sockets, but then I'd have a bucket filled with extras for the next 20 years, and I don't need that. Gearwrench might be a little step up, but you'll never find 300 sockets for the craftsman price.

If you can live with just 6 points - get the gearwrench deal I have posted in the hot deals forum. $95 will get you their complete 1/4" and 3/8" socket sets with ratchets. And yes I agree the TEKTON wrenches are worth it.. You can get their 15 piece metric, and 15 piece sae online at HD for under $100 for both.

To add, 12 pt sockets were more needed years ago, when most ratchets only had 36 teeth. The 12 pt socket gave you 72 positions for your ratchets over 36 with a 6 point. Today, with72, 84, 120 tooth ratchets, there is really no need ( for most people ) unless you encounter 12 pt bolts..

 

[Cruzan80]

Never had an issue with my 12pt rounding off fasteners, and I work almost exclusively in vintage stuff. Occasionally I will reach for a 6pt, but over half the time I will break it loose with an open end instead.

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[88F250]

Cool, I think I will make a full kobalt set then and get that craftsman as a second if i have to get another set. I actually did run into knicking a few nut and bolts with a 12pt restoring my most recent tractor a wheel horse 312-8. luckily it has new hardware all around so it looks pretty!

 

[four.cycle]

"...small engine repair for my friends and neighbors, restore vintage/classic garden tractors, and also work on the few farm tractors..."

invest in some good pullers. 2-jaw, 3-jaw. no need to shell out a ton of money- check Ebay for used. ("Owatonna puller") (got three small 2-jaw models about a week ago for $16 incl. shipping)
also put "Posi-Lock" on your wish list. I have a model #104. works all the time, every time. not cheap. worth every cent.

don't go cheapo if you're going to get into 1/2" drive stuff - you'll just break fasteners and skin knuckles. you can find nice used stuff way cheap on Ebay, especially if you're looking for SAE because nobody's buying it.

get something to pinch off fuel lines. skinny-nose Vise-Grips with rubber hose on the jaws, or hose pinch pliers. something. way better than having gasoline running all over the place.

if you're working on older equipment, find some nice old SAE offset-head open-end wrenches - 3/8, 7/16, 1/2, 9/16 is probably all you'll need. aka: "obstruction wrench":



just my two cents.

 

[Widgeon]

I would get that gear wrench socket set mentioned above. Every size in 6 point 1/4" drive and 3/8" drive will cover most situations. Plus with it compact size you can take it to school with you.

 

[88F250]

Thanks for reminding me of the rubber hose and vise grip, we had a lawn tractor come in that smelled like gas, so one of they guys wen through the fuel system and turns out the guy who owned the tractor tried to make a seal for the replaceable barb/shutoff valve out of electrical tape that proceeded to spill fuel everywhere because it wasn't held in tight enough! one thing that i like for fuel lines is a golf tee and I prop it upright against something so it doesn't flop around.

 

[Tim37]

Do you think That it would be alright just to get the 12pt regular and 6pt shallow impact? have any of you run into a clearance issue with using an impact socket on a regular ratchet or breaker to break a nut loose? !

I run in to clearance issues with impact sockets occasionally the thick walls can be a hindrance.

 

[chruler]

Torque Wrench
Breaker bar
Honing stones for honing cylinders
Ring compressor
Compression gauge
Set of easy outs
oh, and a good precision ruler!

 

[B_Bimmer]

12 point will round off a fastener in a split second especially with 1/2" drive. Above 1", then you can use 12 point.

Please don't listen to this guy. He's captain extreme with everything. The wonders of his falsities never cease. Quality 12 point sockets will work almost always just as well as 6 point. I was working on a fertilizer spreader today, the thing is a rust bomb, I used proto 12 point sockets in the 7/16 to 9/16's range and had no trouble twisting off the hardware that needed to be replaced. 99% of stuff vintage or not is in far better shape than that.

 

[MrGiggles]

Tekton wrenches are great. Kobalt is good too.

If you use impacts, just get only deep/shallow impacts in 1/2" drive. Less to keep track of and store. You can't beat Pittsburgh Pro for the price. Tekton, Sunex, and Grey are great too. Once in a great while, you may run into a clearance issue because of the thick wall, but a 3/8 socket will suffice in those rare instances.

I have Gearwrench chrome sockets in 3/8 and 1/4, and they're really nice. They've started making a lot of stuff in China and the quality has slipped some though. Again, Pittsburgh Pro is Taiwan made and great for the money with chrome sockets too. GW often has BOGO deals on their chrome sockets, buy metric, get SAE free, etc.

I like to have a really nice pair of screwdrivers around too. I went with Snap On Instinct for those. The Pittsburgh Pro set is seriously good for 10 bucks though, good for beaters and your mobile box.

I have a Snap On radiator hose pick that is worth its weight in gold as well.

 

[four.cycle]

"...one thing that i like for fuel lines is a golf tee..."

I use an old exhaust valve for that. Fits into a 1/4" ID hose perfectly. Also makes a nice punch for removing those whacky recoil clutches on old B&S engines.

 

[T45]

If you can live with just 6 points - get the gearwrench deal I have posted in the hot deals forum. $95 will get you their complete 1/4" and 3/8" socket sets with ratchets.

Go with above for chromes up to 3/8 and carlyle for 1/2 shallow. After that, pick up Sunex in 1/2 deep impact and 3/8 master set. All of that is $350 vs 299 for cman set.

https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQSS12110M $51.99 /Set(s)
https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQSS12106 $49.99 /Set(s)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEVI0/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ($82)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MVB9Y8/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ($59)

I would take these more modern sets over cman--the impact stuff is worthwhile substitution IMHO.

 

[Tynee]

I went in yesterday to exchange a 10ish year old USA CM 1/4" ratchet. I bought the original when I was just a little older than you are now, and this is my second replacement. I'm 38 now. The new one was noticeably lower quality than the old. Handled some other stuff while I was there, and was disappointed even with their pro line.

By comparison, I tried the Pittsburgh Pro line of several items while I was at HF not too long ago. Was very pleasantly surprised by them.

It's been a long time since I've bought sockets, but if I were in the market right now, I'd either go with HF for new, or I'd start cruising the pawn shops, flea markets, and auctions looking for bargains on older better stuff. I also like what I've seen of both Husky and Kobalt.

 

[Teenager with old tools]

Flea markets and yard sales piece together what you can unless you need it yesterday


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[d.mcfarland]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=466&page=1002

Check out this thread. It will give you good ideas as to what everyone else has for tools and you can see where you might be lacking some stuff. It's addicting, be careful.

 

[DerekV]

Go with above for chromes up to 3/8 and carlyle for 1/2 shallow. After that, pick up Sunex in 1/2 deep impact and 3/8 master set. All of that is $350 vs 299 for cman set.



https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQSS12110M $51.99 /Set(s)

https://www.napaonline.com/p/CHQSS12106 $49.99 /Set(s)



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LQEVI0/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ($82)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005MVB9Y8/?tag=atomicindus08-20 ($59)



I would take these more modern sets over cman--the impact stuff is worthwhile substitution IMHO.

 

[Teenager with old tools]

To answer your question I only once would have had clearance issues using impact socket. But it was a 13mm nut that came off with 3/8 drive ratchet. Most large stuff shouldn't have clearance issues if it does just go buy a non impact socket or grind the impact one down enough and then replace. Avoid Chinese craftsman I saw one of the sockets it was fat as an impact. May as well get impact.


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[someofusgotfarmingtodo]

If you are working on old tractors and equipment you might want to consider some long handle ratchets. One of my most used tool is an old Proto 5450 15” long ½” drive ratchet. That thing is strong as an ox and does well with loosening old rusted fasteners. That ratchet new costs a lot of money, but if you are patient and shop around you can scarf up a decent used one on ebay for around $30. It is a well made ratchet that will last you your lifetime. It has a low tooth count and high arc swing, but I have found that tight spaces isn't much of an issue when working on old farm equipment.

 

[oldtownguy]

If you go (or already went) with the big CM socket set, you'll notice over a couple of months which sizes/depths are your "go to" and which ones are the relatives you're embarrassed to have. Once that's obvious, start trolling eBay for an A-1 replacement like SO, Proto, Mac, Matco, Cornwell, or whatever. There's no point when you're starting out spending good money on a tool you never, rarely, or might someday use; at first, spend the serious money on the tools that get serious use.

Except wrenches. Never skimp on wrenches. A good one will be with you forever, a bad one will punish you first chance it gets. Kind of like a wife.

 

[Empty Pockets]

I would buy what I needed from CM or Kobalt, at the moment. As tools break, or wear out, I would upgrade (on an as needed basis) to higher quality tools (SK or Wright), as you can afford them.

As to the set of Tekton wrenches.... Good quality for the price. You might want to check Amazon for pricing, as well

 

[Infinia]

Buy the best long pattern combo wrenches you possibly can afford. Handle them in person, as soon as you pick one up youll know if theyre for you or not, ( for the fact that you'll cherish them more and more each day. )

Never skimp on wrenches. A good one will be with you forever, a bad one will punish you first chance it gets. Kind of like a wife

indeed

 

[bert1913]

i watch youtube videos on the type of repairs that i'm interested in, then take notes on what type of tools they use

 

[ptschram]

Please don't listen to this guy. He's captain extreme with everything. The wonders of his falsities never cease. Quality 12 point sockets will work almost always just as well as 6 point. I was working on a fertilizer spreader today, the thing is a rust bomb, I used proto 12 point sockets in the 7/16 to 9/16's range and had no trouble twisting off the hardware that needed to be replaced. 99% of stuff vintage or not is in far better shape than that.

I vehemently disagree.

Use the right tool for the job and using a 12-point tool on a six point fastener is NOT using the right tool for the job.

As for what you need now-you need a good relationship with a Snap-On dealer.

You are buying tools you will use for a life time. It makes sense ot buy the best you can and use them to earn a living for the rest of your life.

I still have some of the very first Snap-On tools I received as gifts when I was eight years old.

Buy once, buy the best.

 

[B_Bimmer]

I vehemently disagree.

Use the right tool for the job and using a 12-point tool on a six point fastener is NOT using the right tool for the job.

As for what you need now-you need a good relationship with a Snap-On dealer.

You are buying tools you will use for a life time. It makes sense ot buy the best you can and use them to earn a living for the rest of your life.

I still have some of the very first Snap-On tools I received as gifts when I was eight years old.

Buy once, buy the best.

Sooooo, you sell most all your customers six point wrenches? Bet they are all thrilled.

 

[John in OH]

I vehemently disagree.

Use the right tool for the job and using a 12-point tool on a six point fastener is NOT using the right tool for the job.

As for what you need now-you need a good relationship with a Snap-On dealer.

You are buying tools you will use for a life time. It makes sense ot buy the best you can and use them to earn a living for the rest of your life.

I still have some of the very first Snap-On tools I received as gifts when I was eight years old.

Buy once, buy the best.

".....a 12-point tool on a six point fastener is NOT using the right tool for the job." Say WHAT?!?! That's just nonsense. 12-point sockets have been the "norm" for decades, long before any 12 fasteners existed in any common application.

Regarding tool brands, if you ask ten GJ members what tool brand to buy, you'll get 15 different answers!! Personally, I think the Wright tools are among the best US made tools available. Not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either. Excellent US made tools at a "reasonable" price. SO and other truck brands are fine tools, but if you aren't a pro wrencher, you can buy just as good (Wright, Proto, Armstrong, Williams-USA) for less money and equal quality.

 

[bdelmar2]

I also have an 88 f250 which I drive everyday.

Has the straight 6, 5 speed manual.

I have a lot of tools and I use them everyday for a living.

I bought some gearwrench sockets as secondary sets to save myself a bit of running around. I have mid deep 3/8" and 1/4", I regularly use them on an impact and have been for about a year or so now - daily, constantly, and they have held up fine, no breaking, not wallered out.

I don't push them hard with the impact mind you, for those situations I use impact sockets.

Hard to beat sunex for impacts. Exception is oddly the most handy set I have which is the mid depth universals, those are from gray pneumatic as sunex doesn't have a mid set.

Ingersoll rand air tools are also hard to beat, fairly reasonable from amazon, proven, parts readily available (though I've never needed any), and as strong as any powerwise.

Wrenches and ratchets are worth getting snap on.

I am, um, thrifty, and while snap on ratchets are expensive, they have sealed heads, are strong and will work well for years. I'd suggest used in good shape from ebay.

Wrenches also. Snap on are just good wrenches period. They don't have to be flank drive, or the newest version. Plain basic snap on can be found on ebay pretty reasonably. Maybe find a smaller set and add on single wrenches as need/money allows. They will most likely last you the rest of your life, even with a fair amount of abuse.


Note: I generally prefer 6pt sockets wherever possible, but you do need the occasional 12pt here and there. Wrenches are mainly 12pt for access reasons, but I have some 6pt for certain uses, torque converter bolts/nuts come to mind.

 

[Citation]

Honestly, I don't see much wrong with the OP's plan. I see no reason to upgrade the ratchets he already has. I've done shocks, springs, transmissions, axles and many other things on smaller cars with my CM tools. The current crop of Kobalt seems just as sufficient. A better range of wrenches would be fine but I wouldn't stress out about CM vs Husky vs truck brands. For a shade tree the big box stuff is fine. 12 pt is also fine in most cases. If the hex is screwed up to the point that a decent 12pt (most are "flank drive" these days) doesn't work then odds are you have bigger problems.

The best thing about where the OP's current setup is he doesn't need to get these tools right away. He can check the Sears outlet store, Slickdeals.net and hunt on ebay. Don't get hung up on COO. Rarely does it mater. Lot's of people will say they prefer the "pre-China" this that or the other thing but how often can they tell you why? How often does that why even matter?

One other thing, and I say this from the POV of someone who hires engineers as part of my job, if you can do a "Mechanical Engineering" degree instead of a Mechanical Engineering Technology degree go for the ME, not the MET. The cost is probably a wash but some people, including a number I work with, will outright reject an MET resume vs the ME resume. I know that wasn't something you were asking about but since I just saw that at my company (a very large company with extensive manufacturing) I figured I would throw it out there.

 

[kctyphoon]

OP -

The big name affordable brands are not what "junk" tools use to be 20 and 30 years ago. I think that mindset has stayed with some people though, and they moved onto top brands since then cause they make a living with hand tools. With common sense any name brand wrench and socket CAN be a lifelong tool for most people. They are not "dollar store" type tools.

At 20 almost everyone I knew worked on cars to some degree.. It's was a part of growing up. I can count on one hand the amount that actually turned it into a profession, and still have fingers left over. If and when you do get to that point, then worry more about buying the best of anything. Until then, things like craftsman, Koblat and gearwrench will do anything you ask of them. Many people still use those brands professionally, but it's a bit taboo to admit that in a place like here.

I think the advice in here has been pretty good so far, and if you're using the tools you currently own then you know for yourself that they work well. Nobody will say not to splurge on things you like - but personally, I always try to find a balance on what something costs vs what it will do for me. I'm not unhappy will any of the tools I have, I don't own anything you can't afford yourself as far as hand tools.. ( I just might have a lot more of them )

 

[Tynee]

One other thing, and I say this from the POV of someone who hires engineers as part of my job, if you can do a "Mechanical Engineering" degree instead of a Mechanical Engineering Technology degree go for the ME, not the MET. The cost is probably a wash but some people, including a number I work with, will outright reject an MET resume vs the ME resume. I know that wasn't something you were asking about but since I just saw that at my company (a very large company with extensive manufacturing) I figured I would throw it out there.

I overlooked in the Original post where the OP said he was planning on an MET degree. Now that I see it, I couldn't agree more with this advice. I'm an ME, PE, and I hire engineers. The only thing I would change is the word "if." There's no "if" about it. You CAN do an ME degree. If I was able to, anybody can.