Looking to add some more screw/nut extractor tools

[GophersGarage]

I currently have the speed out set and also a damaged nut extractor set but thinking I need to find something more.

Perhaps reversed drill bits or this Irwin set seems to have good reviews. What are your thoughts ? What do you use ?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

1/4 drive turbo sockets in 0.25mm increments will get a lot done. 1/8 carbide burrs and a 1/8 grinder is great for prep prior to drilling. Got some nice center punches? How about cobalt spot-weld bits? Say goodbye to work hardened junk, although they'll die if you try to "break through" with them. Switch out bits first. Norseman vortex point are amazing as well. Left handed bits are nice for pulling stuff out that simply broke, again, cobalt, be delicate. Sock-it out are nice for rounded hex heads. I got pounds of this stuff.


I'm assuming a MIG welder is out of the question? That and some sacrificial nuts will do a lot.

Application is key. Where is it? What can you get into the area? Why did it break? (Rust, galled threads, fatigue, etc).

 

[CGarage]

1/4 drive turbo sockets in 0.25mm increments will get a lot done. 1/8 carbide burrs and a 1/8 grinder is great for prep prior to drilling. Got some nice center punches? How about cobalt spot-weld bits? Say goodbye to work hardened junk, although they'll die if you try to "break through" with them. Switch out bits first. Norseman vortex point are amazing as well. Left handed bits are nice for pulling stuff out that simply broke, again, cobalt, be delicate. Sock-it out are nice for rounded hex heads. I got pounds of this stuff.


I'm assuming a MIG welder is out of the question? That and some sacrificial nuts will do a lot.

Application is key. Where is it? What can you get into the area? Why did it break? (Rust, galled threads, fatigue, etc).

Can you please include links and brands to what you like? It is very helpful.....

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Turbosocket, matco, and mayhew IIRC sell the 1/4 drive sockets in 0.25mm increments. https://omegatec.com/1-4-drive-turbo-sockets.aspx

I might have 50+ turbo sockets.

Norseman Type 187 10MM Cobalt Weldout Spotweld Bit

Norseman Type 187 10MM Cobalt Weldout Spotweld Bit

www.harryepstein.com

That's a spotweld bit. Not made for drilling thick metal, but that's how I use it. Short, hard, minimal flutes for evacuation. Don't try to cut with the flutes, it'll bind and snap. 8 and 10mm from norseman are my friends, they rip right though stuff. Same with Vortex point bits, amazing stuff. I had to drill out 4 studs last week holding a wheel on, 2 of which spun in the hub. Vortex point and tap magic ate them up. Norseman in general is my preference, although USA made stuff is typically good.

Sock IT Out MEB-2 Screw Extractor Set, 5 Pc: Threading Tap Extractors: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

Sock IT Out MEB-2 Screw Extractor Set, 5 Pc: Threading Tap Extractors: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

You can buy these various places. They're annoyingly long. Dumb mazda drain plugs are the main use for me. That or weld a nut on as a last resort. I believe the price has gone up, my cheap-o meter tingles looking at the price. They do work though.


Astro flank bit wrenches are fun, work well when needed in a low profile situation. Downside is they're effectively 6 point on the box end, so access can be limited.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Search "1/8 inch die grinder astro". That's the delicate toy version of die grinders. High rpm precision stuff. Even cheap burrs work decent. I bought double cut from mcmaster (tough work), single cut are still junk from amazon. They mostly get used cleaning up aluminum oxide and rust scale inside knuckles and brake caliper slide pin bores. So my amazon specials still manage to get that job done.


And a mig welder.

 

[larry_g]

My first choice is always the left handed drill bit if it needs drilling.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[jayemm]

I know it's from China instead of the USA but this little kit saved my *** removing a rounded exhaust flange nut that was rusted fast to the flange. I was dead in the water but just started the non critical job so easy to wait for the kit to arrive. I chose it because of the large assortment of sizes and of course the price and the BIGGIE ---- they are like a mid length so are a little deeper than the standard ones. I only removed one nut so far so can't give it a glowing recommendation but can only say that it worked for me removing a pretty stuck 14mm nut with my impact wrench. The coating on the socket wasn't even marked so it must be pretty hard. They are advertised as impact grade and mine didn't break so who knows. They'll probably never see anything real extreme with my casual DIY repairs.
Note related to another thread on the forum regarding penetrating oils. I soaked the nuts 4 or 5 times before starting. Used WD-40 Specialist penetrant and FREE ALL. The penetrant(s) loosened some (not all) of the rust between the nut flange and the exhaust pipe flange but the threads on the stud that were covered by the nut were still silver and dry , so the oils never got to the thread. Sort of confirms a suspicion about if these oils can really get into tight threads. Under tension I can surmise that the metal yields and forms a liquid and gas tight seal so only heat and shock really works with the oils playing a minor role.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SW1R66R/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Shop-hound]

I like the Lisle torx/teeth style extractors for buggered torx and hex drive ends

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002NYBIM/?tag=atomicindus04-20

 

[metaldad]

working on an olde tired chiller, a couple of 1/2 bolts snapped. basically the head twisted off, leaving a body of about 3/4 sticking out.
this flamshooter worked wonders.
3/8 drive, tightens onto the stud, as you ratchet it lefty. similar to a drill chuck, but, lefty
pulled the studs right out.
made by titan. great tool

 

[VolvoRyan]

I have a set of Rocket Sockets. Pretty amazing.

-Ryan

 

[2ndGearRubber]

working on an olde tired chiller, a couple of 1/2 bolts snapped. basically the head twisted off, leaving a body of about 3/4 sticking out.
this flamshooter worked wonders.
3/8 drive, tightens onto the stud, as you ratchet it lefty. similar to a drill chuck, but, lefty
pulled the studs right out.
made by titan. great tool

Those are awesome. My tool of choice for broken exhaust flange studs.

 

[jayemm]

working on an olde tired chiller, a couple of 1/2 bolts snapped. basically the head twisted off, leaving a body of about 3/4 sticking out.
this flamshooter worked wonders.
3/8 drive, tightens onto the stud, as you ratchet it lefty. similar to a drill chuck, but, lefty
pulled the studs right out.
made by titan. great tool

Never seen one of those before. Got to beat vise grips especially in a tight spot.

 

[RedneckWelder]

Welder and an oxy-acetylene torch are the two best extracting tools.

The type of extractor you show is junk. There are better ones (such as the ones in the Irwin kit) but even the best ones aren’t going to do a lot for you in the worst cases AND can **** you if they break off

The Irwin drill bits **** as well. Buy good quality drills from industrial suppliers, not cheap but lots less frustration factor.

There is a huge difference in extraction methods depending on how the fastener is broken. Seized by cross threading, seized by corrosion (rust or galvanic) and just plain snapped off all call for different approaches and are different levels of difficulty of extraction.

 

[j3rf]

Turbosocket, matco, and mayhew IIRC sell the 1/4 drive sockets in 0.25mm increments. https://omegatec.com/1-4-drive-turbo-sockets.aspx

I might have 50+ turbo sockets.

Norseman Type 187 10MM Cobalt Weldout Spotweld Bit

Norseman Type 187 10MM Cobalt Weldout Spotweld Bit

www.harryepstein.com

That's a spotweld bit. Not made for drilling thick metal, but that's how I use it. Short, hard, minimal flutes for evacuation. Don't try to cut with the flutes, it'll bind and snap. 8 and 10mm from norseman are my friends, they rip right though stuff. Same with Vortex point bits, amazing stuff. I had to drill out 4 studs last week holding a wheel on, 2 of which spun in the hub. Vortex point and tap magic ate them up. Norseman in general is my preference, although USA made stuff is typically good.

Sock IT Out MEB-2 Screw Extractor Set, 5 Pc: Threading Tap Extractors: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

Sock IT Out MEB-2 Screw Extractor Set, 5 Pc: Threading Tap Extractors: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

You can buy these various places. They're annoyingly long. Dumb mazda drain plugs are the main use for me. That or weld a nut on as a last resort. I believe the price has gone up, my cheap-o meter tingles looking at the price. They do work though.


Astro flank bit wrenches are fun, work well when needed in a low profile situation. Downside is they're effectively 6 point on the box end, so access can be limited.

Anyone have a part number or information on the 1/4 drive Mayhew bolt grip sockets? Haven't been able to find information about them.
Matco https://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/TSM16/16-PIECE-1-4-DRIVE-TWIST-SOCKET-SET/
H.B. Turbosocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EVF6DCE/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Mayhew? https://mayhew.com/product-category/bolt-extractors/

 

[F-22]

I don't bother with extractors. Drilling and using a threaded insert is repeatable and reliable for me. If an extractor snaps, you have a bad day... If you just straight up decide to drill it out and use an insert, it's usually also a lot faster than fiddling with various extractors.

 

[GophersGarage]

Thanks guys for your information. I think at the end of the day there is not one method that is correct. Yes I have mig/tig and oxy/ace torch set but when you are in the engine bay in tight area etc thats not the way to correct an issue. But that would be the correct and useful way in other locations.

I do like to add that Titan set posted above that's cool to try out. I sure do use vise grips all the time but not always space for them either.

The irwin kit might not be top end but I am not repairing broken bolts daily either.

 

[GophersGarage]

PS this is the extractor set I have and lifetime warranty.

 

[GophersGarage]

1/4 drive turbo sockets in 0.25mm increments will get a lot done. 1/8 carbide burrs and a 1/8 grinder is great for prep prior to drilling. Got some nice center punches? How about cobalt spot-weld bits? Say goodbye to work hardened junk, although they'll die if you try to "break through" with them. Switch out bits first. Norseman vortex point are amazing as well. Left handed bits are nice for pulling stuff out that simply broke, again, cobalt, be delicate. Sock-it out are nice for rounded hex heads. I got pounds of this stuff.


I'm assuming a MIG welder is out of the question? That and some sacrificial nuts will do a lot.

Application is key. Where is it? What can you get into the area? Why did it break? (Rust, galled threads, fatigue, etc).

I just ordered one to try from what I am able to find out the manufacture is (shop iron) not titan. Same tool just tossing out there what I was able to see online.

 

[GophersGarage]

I did get in this week the titan/shop tool extractor very beefy tool I like it