Looking to build 40'Wx30'D Shop, looking for feedback

[antexity]

Hi All,

Looking to build a 40X30 shop here in cold Canada and looking for some feedback. I tried to do as much research as I can first hand and now would like to run it by the experts on here to make sure I am not missing anything before I sign my name. Anything I should change and why? I am at the blueprint and firm quote stage but still have to opportunity to make changes.


Here are the details:
-40 Wide, 30 Deep
-The window is still to be decided (facing East)
-Will have a Car Lift (3rd door on the right)
- BendpackX PR-10AXLS 10,000-lb. Capacity / Two-Post Lift / Asymmetric Clearfloor / Extra Tall
- looking to be 13 feet from the back and 3 feet from the right wall
- 3 Doors, 10 Wide, 9 high
- Wall Mount Garage door openers (What brand should I look at?)
- No drains
- 2x6 - 16" on Center
- Insulated - 2X6 staggered with Blown-in (not spray foam) insulation
- No heated floors
- Hardie board siding
- 14' ceiling
- OSB walls/ceiling 7/16"
- Steel frame and door for entrance.
- Gas Garage heater and required hookups for us i.e.Mr. Heater® Big Maxx 80,000 BTU Garage Heater
- 3 - 220V, approx 10-110V 20 amps (2 - 30 amp)
- Water hookup (future for sink once well and septic is hooked up)
- Electric hookups for LED lights on ceilings(I have no clue how many?) (4 quadrants, each on own switch)
- 5" Concrete
- Rebar - 1 foot on center
- Extra concrete pad for posts for the car lift
- Weather Vain on roof (Wife's)
- 110V in Soffit
- 5 power for 5 Sconce lights
- 1 Outdoor water tap
- Steel roof.

For those that are interested to hear costs, not sure if its reasonable, 95K Canadian (68K USD) turn-key. Lift not included in price.

Any advice or feedback is greatly appreciated!!! Thank you.

 

[CudaA39]

As someone who is anxiously awaiting the long off day to build his 30'x40', your list looks very close to my wishlist. Based on the quotes I've received, your price is something I'd be happy with given what you're getting. Please post pics of the build and final product.

 

[Bessy]

Not enough outlets. I know everyone is going cordless for many items, but with not enough outlets you're always going to be just out of reach. I'd think you'd want outlets on 4' centers, 9 across the back and 6-7 along each end wall all 4' from the floor to the bottom of the faceplate. Consider a couple outlets down lower on the wall (2' from floor) in the corners by the doors and where your bench(es) will go, in case you ever want task lighting or a power bar on the bench. Outlets in the ceiling over the bench and the lift for trouble light and/or extension cord reel.

Plan where you want to put your chargers for cordless tools and put that outlet on a switch, you could consider this for the compressor as well.

Depending on what kind of equipment you have or plan to add, I'd want 220v by the lift, by one or more of the bay doors, and anywhere else you'd consider putting large equipment.

Air:
Rig your compressor to a switch and get it in a closet to minimize the noise, run an air drop to your lift, to the bench(es) and one to at least one of your bay doors.

Lighting under the lift, I've seen a few shops on here with puck lights flush mounted in the concrete that shine under the vehicle, which would be pretty cool.

Pull pot or hitch receiver in the floor centered opposite from your bay doors incase you ever need to winch something into the shop, particularly in front of the lift.

OSB for the walls, but I'd go with steel siding along the bottom 4' to protect against spray/sparks.

Depending on what you plan to do in there, I'd consider a dead flat floor as opposed to sloping it towards the doors. Counter intuitive to Canadian winters, I know, but it makes life easier when trying to fabricate.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[antexity]

As someone who is anxiously awaiting the long off day to build his 30'x40', your list looks very close to my wishlist. Based on the quotes I've received, your price is something I'd be happy with given what you're getting. Please post pics of the build and final product.

Will do! Thanks

 

[antexity]

Not enough outlets. I know everyone is going cordless for many items, but with not enough outlets you're always going to be just out of reach. I'd think you'd want outlets on 4' centers, 9 across the back and 6-7 along each end wall all 4' from the floor to the bottom of the faceplate. Consider a couple outlets down lower on the wall (2' from floor) in the corners by the doors and where your bench(es) will go, in case you ever want task lighting or a power bar on the bench. Outlets in the ceiling over the bench and the lift for trouble light and/or extension cord reel.

Plan where you want to put your chargers for cordless tools and put that outlet on a switch, you could consider this for the compressor as well.

Depending on what kind of equipment you have or plan to add, I'd want 220v by the lift, by one or more of the bay doors, and anywhere else you'd consider putting large equipment.

Air:
Rig your compressor to a switch and get it in a closet to minimize the noise, run an air drop to your lift, to the bench(es) and one to at least one of your bay doors.

Lighting under the lift, I've seen a few shops on here with puck lights flush mounted in the concrete that shine under the vehicle, which would be pretty cool.

Pull pot or hitch receiver in the floor centered opposite from your bay doors incase you ever need to winch something into the shop, particularly in front of the lift.

OSB for the walls, but I'd go with steel siding along the bottom 4' to protect against spray/sparks.

Depending on what you plan to do in there, I'd consider a dead flat floor as opposed to sloping it towards the doors. Counter intuitive to Canadian winters, I know, but it makes life easier when trying to fabricate.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

This is exactly the feedback I am after. Some great ideas! I appreciate it. Thank you.

 

[nzjkb5]

With a 14' ceiling, is there a reason you are only doing 9' tall doors? I am planning a similar garage/shop, and I am planning on at least one 12' tall door so that I could bring in a small motorhome/RV or enclosed car trailer in the future. Your quote is only slightly more than what I recently received for a 30 x 44 shell only, no insulation, no interior finishing, bare minimum electrical to meet code, 13' ceiling, insulated doors. And I only need a 12" deep footing here. I am planning on adding the rest of the electrical and all of the insulation/interior walls myself later.

 

[antexity]

With a 14' ceiling, is there a reason you are only doing 9' tall doors? I am planning a similar garage/shop, and I am planning on at least one 12' tall door so that I could bring in a small motorhome/RV or enclosed car trailer in the future. Your quote is only slightly more than what I recently received for a 30 x 44 shell only, no insulation, no interior finishing, bare minimum electrical to meet code, 13' ceiling, insulated doors. And I only need a 12' deep footing here. I am planning on adding the rest of the electrical and all of the insulation/interior walls myself later.

I did think about it a few times and thought about storing my car hauler but I said no. The garage will be full of my toys/tractor and weekend cars that I would never have room to store any trailers.

I am glad to hear my quote is not too far off. Thank you!

 

[DJF3]

Also in the planning stages. Lot's of good ideas here. I'm looking at a 9000 2 post and extra footings shouldn't be required, especially with a 5" slab. I'm going with 5" 32 mpa concrete. Footing won't hurt, but probably not required. Another thing I picked up here is to put outlets at 50" above the floor. That way you can lean plywood etc on the wall and not block your outlet. There is a lighting thread somewhere here with a calculator. You input your lights, reflectivity of walls ect, and your expected light output, and it will tell you how many lights and where to put them. I'm building a 34x60 and I'm going with I think 16 led lights at 15000 lumens each. I'm also going to go with a light colored floor.

You said non heated slab. My neighbor has a garage with radiant heat. He put 2" styrofoam under the whole slab and it stays warm all winter. I am also going to put styrofoam under my slab. I believe I will save heating costs and it will pay for itself over the long run.

 

[930dreamer]

I did think about it a few times and thought about storing my car hauler but I said no. The garage will be full of my toys/tractor and weekend cars that I would never have room to store any trailers.

I am glad to hear my quote is not too far off. Thank you!

But you could back a tall trailer into the shop for loading/unloading items?

 

[Walter_TA]

I made mine 40 wide. I wish I would have made it 48 foot wide.

I used 4 foot LED fixtures in the bay with a lift. They are mounted to the sides of the bay and tipped toward the center. I used four on each side end to end.

I would not use that much rebar. I would use the fiber that is put in the concrete. Make sure they do not add water to the concrete, is should be good from the plant. That is what makes concrete break. Make the edges thicker, this will give move support when a vehicle drives on the slab.

I would put in a mini split for heat and AC. I used a 24000 BTU heats and cools well. I mounted in the work bay center, on the back of the building. It blows hot in the winter right where you work. Makes heat down to -10 C.

More windows the better.

 

[DaveInHouston]

I put 120v duplex outlets every 4’ on all walls in my 30x40 shop. Can’t have too many outlets. Also put several 240v all around for Welders, plasma torch, compressor, lift etc. Easy to run elec before you insulate and cover walls. I still need to run air and water. Good luck!

 

[jpcjguy]

I did a 48x30x12 with room truss over 32' with raise heel trusses. This gives me a nice lift bay scissor truss on one side and only 10' ceiling on the other to give good head room upstairs (I am 6' 5" and can stand with my shoulder on the wall). Outside pitch is 8/12.
Still finishing it but I love the design so far! Nice room upstairs with easy attic ladder inside and will build full outdoor staircase later. Here is my build thread: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432438
(and I am behind in updating the thread - need to get on that)

 

[antexity]

But you could back a tall trailer into the shop for loading/unloading items?

Changing the middle door to be 12', had a few discussions on it today and the cost is about the same (fewer exterior finishings). Thanks!

 

[antexity]

I made mine 40 wide. I wish I would have made it 48 foot wide.

I used 4 foot LED fixtures in the bay with a lift. They are mounted to the sides of the bay and tipped toward the center. I used four on each side end to end.

I would not use that much rebar. I would use the fiber that is put in the concrete. Make sure they do not add water to the concrete, is should be good from the plant. That is what makes concrete break. Make the edges thicker, this will give move support when a vehicle drives on the slab.

I would put in a mini split for heat and AC. I used a 24000 BTU heats and cools well. I mounted in the work bay center, on the back of the building. It blows hot in the winter right where you work. Makes heat down to -10 C.

More windows the better.

Thank you, do you have any pictures of your LED fixtures mounted in? Also how thick of an edge?

 

[jptbay]

Insulate under slab.

instead of 3 - 10 foot wide doors, I would do 2 - 12 foot wide doors, and you would be crazy to not put 12 foot high doors, with a 14 foot ceiling.

I have 30 x 40 in similar canadian climate. I prefer overhead radiant heat.

Otherwise looks good. Enjoy.

 

[matt_i]

I would go with a 60A-fed subpanel. The subpanel itself can be a bigger 100-125A panel with more spaces. But there's no foul in feeding it with less. That way you have flexibility for all future needs.

 

[ConCretin]

I agree with a previous poster that you don't need rebar at 12" centers. Rebar doesn't make your slab stronger, it just holds cracks together including those under your control joints. There is obviously no harm in your plan but you could save some money by spacing the rebar out 2x that amount or use welded wire fabric. Just make sure the reinforcing is properly supported at mid slab.

I wouldn't substitute fibermesh for steel reinforcing. They perform two different functions. Fiber is intended to delay and minimize early age shrinkage cracks but it won't maintain slab integrity when cracks occur.

If you are building on a monolithic slab, I'd use sheets of 6x6-W2.9xW2.9 wire with a couple of #4 bars in the perimeter haunch. Put the money you save toward a nice penetrating sealer or epoxy. Give my Guide to Floor slab in the link below a read for some additional thoughts on floor design and construction. Congrats on your project.

 

[IMXCITD]

I like idea of more outlets. Compressor room outside behind building. Have you considered a overhead truss so you can have a mobile hoist? Lean to on one side for motor home or trailer parking? I like the idea of 12 ft doors. Sounds like it will be amazing! I am excited for you!

 

[Asphalt Angel]

I second the motion for radiant heat- clean quiet and very efficient. As others have said- can’t have too many electrical outlets- you may consider one on each corner on the outside as well as a water outlet on the outside for your hose/ power washer.

 

[Racy2]

I hope to start on a a steel building May 18 with a builder in Ontario. The building will be 30 X 50 and 12 foot walls with 2 10 ft doors. The building will have a foundation and be insulated and finished inside up to the ceiling. Foundation will be insulated and 6 inches thick. There will be 6 windows and 1 man door. I intend to heat it with a 80,000 BTU gas heater. My cost will be similar. It does not include hydro, gas or water. I have been reading on here for over a year. Lots of great information and ideas.

 

[HoosierMark]

When I did the sidewalls on my 14 high I put the interior osb sideways two courses then a 2 foot run then the last 4 foot run. Just recently I wanted to run a couple of extra circuits. I simply unscrewed the 2 ft wide pieces and ran the wire behind them.
I also put air lines between two doors and near my lift. I think it is called rapid air. Very easy to work with. I also put the anchor in the floor and love it. You can use it for a stand placement for grinder or vise or pull it out for an anchor. Additionally I put three electrical pvc pipes under the floor to areas I might have a work bench or grinder, I just made a simple wood plug to cover the holes I have not used. I can simple run a screw in to pull them out. Two are empty now and one has electric in it. I can also run an air hose in if needed. Don't forget wiring for music.
On the backside of my 36 x 60 I put a walkout door with overhead light. To make sure I do not leave the outside light on I wired a second light above the door inside. Now if the light is accidently turned on, the inside light is also on. I have two 12 x 16 wide doors and the third bay I have a walk in door and windows I needed a workshop storage area. I also put water, electric and and a 50 amp service between the two doors for minor welding inside or out. I am pleased with how mine turned out. Oh yea, I insulated the heck out of it. I also roughed in a bath in the corner for the future.

 

[aggie113]

Sounds alot like what I'm getting built except a just one double wide door in front and a single wide roll up in back. Also going nuts on height and getting 18" to the rafters. Even picked the same lift. And I'm doing roll up insulation that has the laminated side showing.
One thing I would suggest is getting a rough in installed before the poor. Just pick some place where you might put a toilet one day. If you don't use it you don't use it, but makes a future upgrade a whole lot easier.

 

[Kaizen]

Attic truss so you can have storage. I did not and now have to spend twice as much for a mezzanine.
I used 9 led fixtures in my 30x36. Use two 3 way switches and all on one circuit. No need for quadrants.
I’d get quotes for pex and insulation under floor if you are going to be out there a lot. If not your specs work to get space heated up fast.
I only used fiber in field of Alaskan slab. Just now seeing cracks on saw cuts. Base compaction and material is key



Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[dfiler2]

I think your list looks pretty good. You may want to consider radiant floor just in the area of the lift, especially if you spend any time close to or on the floor. I live just a little south west of Piney, MB and in my shop I mostly do wood work but do pull in vehicles for service once in a while. When it's -30 C or F that floor is really cold. If nothing else be sure to insulate under the floor.

Sounds like a great shop, enjoy it!

 

[antexity]

I agree with a previous poster that you don't need rebar at 12" centers. Rebar doesn't make your slab stronger, it just holds cracks together including those under your control joints. There is obviously no harm in your plan but you could save some money by spacing the rebar out 2x that amount or use welded wire fabric. Just make sure the reinforcing is properly supported at mid slab.

I wouldn't substitute fibermesh for steel reinforcing. They perform two different functions. Fiber is intended to delay and minimize early age shrinkage cracks but it won't maintain slab integrity when cracks occur.

If you are building on a monolithic slab, I'd use sheets of 6x6-W2.9xW2.9 wire with a couple of #4 bars in the perimeter haunch. Put the money you save toward a nice penetrating sealer or epoxy. Give my Guide to Floor slab in the link below a read for some additional thoughts on floor design and construction. Congrats on your project.

Thanks so much for the information. I will for sure read your guides!

 

[antexity]

I would go with a 60A-fed subpanel. The subpanel itself can be a bigger 100-125A panel with more spaces. But there's no foul in feeding it with less. That way you have flexibility for all future needs.

I like idea of more outlets. Compressor room outside behind building. Have you considered a overhead truss so you can have a mobile hoist? Lean to on one side for motor home or trailer parking? I like the idea of 12 ft doors. Sounds like it will be amazing! I am excited for you!

I second the motion for radiant heat- clean quiet and very efficient. As others have said- can’t have too many electrical outlets- you may consider one on each corner on the outside as well as a water outlet on the outside for your hose/ power washer.

I hope to start on a a steel building May 18 with a builder in Ontario. The building will be 30 X 50 and 12 foot walls with 2 10 ft doors. The building will have a foundation and be insulated and finished inside up to the ceiling. Foundation will be insulated and 6 inches thick. There will be 6 windows and 1 man door. I intend to heat it with a 80,000 BTU gas heater. My cost will be similar. It does not include hydro, gas or water. I have been reading on here for over a year. Lots of great information and ideas.

Thanks so much guys, I will take your advice and add it to my research list! It never ends and I always have that feeling I am missing something important in which I will regret later.

 

[67fastback]

I’m doing a similar build this summer. 28x40 with three doors. Around here, the only wall mount openers I found were chamberlain and lift master. I believe they are the same company and the specs look the same. I guess it just comes down to which one you can get a better deal on.

 

[DaveInHouston]

If I had it to do over again I’d go with 14’ or 15’ eave height rather than 12’ to leave room for a mezzanine floor in some areas for storage.

 

[sz0k30]

One thing I wish I would have done is put 2 receptacles per box instead of just one and alternate them on different circuits.. All my outlets are 20A, 12GA wire.