Looking to build a 30x50 garage/workshop - advice needed on options

[quakerj]

Looking to build a 30x50 garage on my 2 acre property in northern KY (35 miles SW of Louisville). Need just a basic building, 8x12 (or so) over head door, couple small windows and walk in door, nothing fancy. Prefer to have it insulated. Its use will be as a garage/workshop, basically to park 3 cars in and have space to do projects and work on cars. A 2 post vehicle lift is planned.

I'm a structural steel fabricator by trade, so erecting a steel building is more in my comfort zone than wood. But after getting a quote for a steel building, I'm beginning to question whether I should go for a traditional pole barn. The quote I received for just building design, materials & delivery on a steel building was $35k. That's without any foundation, erection labor (which I plan to do myself), etc. That figure was shocking, but being in the steel business, I'm well aware of how wild steel prices have gone in the last 1-2 years.

Granted I have only received one quote so far, but that leaves me considering a pole barn type of frame. I'm a complete novice when it comes to wood, what are the downsides to this approach and are there significant cost savings? Are these types of buildings easy to assemble and durable? I would want a concrete slab, is the slab poured after building construction or before?

If anyone can help with advantages / disadvantages between the two types of buildings, or even can recommend some companies I can contact (for either type), it would be much appreciated. I'm looking to get this started early to middle of next year. Budget is $40-50k, but prefer to stay on the lighter side of that so I have some money left over for interior appurtenances, lift and all that jazz... Many thanks in advance for any help/input.

 

[velillen01]

You would need to really get quotes for your area but I think youll be shocked at the price for a pole barn as well.

As for your questions...
-Yes they are pretty simple to assemble. You can go on youtube and watch RR Buildings who specializes in post frame (which is more or less the same).
-Yes they are durable if built correctly. Plenty of 50+ year old pole barns out there
-You deal with the concrete in a few ways. Either pour the slab and then build on top of it. Or you can set the posts either directly in dirt (not a fan) or pour concrete piers to set the posts on. Then once the building is built you can pour the slab. Lots of people do the second method.

 

[Being]

Looking to build a 30x50 garage on my 2 acre property in northern KY (35 miles SW of Louisville). Need just a basic building, 8x12 (or so) over head door, couple small windows and walk in door, nothing fancy. Prefer to have it insulated. Its use will be as a garage/workshop, basically to park 3 cars in and have space to do projects and work on cars. A 2 post vehicle lift is planned.

I'm a structural steel fabricator by trade, so erecting a steel building is more in my comfort zone than wood. But after getting a quote for a steel building, I'm beginning to question whether I should go for a traditional pole barn. The quote I received for just building design, materials & delivery on a steel building was $35k. That's without any foundation, erection labor (which I plan to do myself), etc. That figure was shocking, but being in the steel business, I'm well aware of how wild steel prices have gone in the last 1-2 years.

Granted I have only received one quote so far, but that leaves me considering a pole barn type of frame. I'm a complete novice when it comes to wood, what are the downsides to this approach and are there significant cost savings? Are these types of buildings easy to assemble and durable? I would want a concrete slab, is the slab poured after building construction or before?

If anyone can help with advantages / disadvantages between the two types of buildings, or even can recommend some companies I can contact (for either type), it would be much appreciated. I'm looking to get this started early to middle of next year. Budget is $40-50k, but prefer to stay on the lighter side of that so I have some money left over for interior appurtenances, lift and all that jazz... Many thanks in advance for any help/input.

**** all your headers up to top plate. Make 1 or 2 wider for future window to door swap (keep this in mind when running wires, etc). Put in floor drain, pipes for utilities, go with 6" slab over 4". Just remember, rough-in material is cheap, so run all your dream stuff in walls, air, gas, vac, water, etc even if you don't trim them. Get load bearing roof trusses (rafters) and enough pitch to walk in. Lotta Sq footage up there. Goodluck!

 

[quakerj]

You would need to really get quotes for your area

Are pole barn packages done locally usually? The nice thing about a steel building is the companies are usually nation-wide outfits and you can get quotes with the click of a mouse and some keystrokes. Where should I look for pole barn prices?

 

[billconner]

FYI worth in rural NYS, I found pole barns were around $40/sf, albeit that was when lumber was near its peak. A little less than half was the barn parts, a quarter slab, and balance labor. It feels like your steel building will be over $60k with labor and slab. I am assuming you'll need to hire a lot of that. Those were not insulated.

One key will be permitting and if your jurisdiction will require sealed drawings, which you seem to have with steel quote. Another is how much diy.

In researching, I really like Hansen Buildings for pole barns. Beware they work on a 12' module though, others seem to work on 8 or 6 feet.

Good luck!

 

[Hobby_Man22]

They want 73k for mine. 50x60-18 I told them today I was gonna hold off. The price is double what it was in January.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

That doesn't include sales tax so really it's like 80k.

 

[quakerj]

FYI worth in rural NYS, I found pole barns were around $40/sf, albeit that was when lumber was near its peak. A little less than half was the barn parts, a quarter slab, and balance labor. It feels like your steel building will be over $60k with labor and slab. I am assuming you'll need to hire a lot of that. Those were not insulated.

One key will be permitting and if your jurisdiction will require sealed drawings, which you seem to have with steel quote. Another is how much diy.

In researching, I really like Hansen Buildings for pole barns. Beware they work on a 12' module though, others seem to work on 8 or 6 feet.

Good luck!

That's what it's seeming like, is a $60k endeavor which is too much. I plan on doing all building erection myself, but concrete will be $15K (assuming I do a lot of the site prep), and a $35K building, after tax and overages will be 60K easy. Sad to say but I might have to wait this out, or look into pole barns more heavily.

My area will require a permit (inexpensive) and sealed drawings, but that's par for the course around here except the most rural of areas.

 

[Metal-Marc]

A heated slab is great if you plan to heat the garage.

 

[quakerj]

A heated slab is great if you plan to heat the garage.

I'm looking for ways to reduce cost, how to get competitive bids, etc. not add to it.

But in a perfect world I'd throw in everything AND the kitchen sink

In all honesty, our climate here is fairly mild, even just cheap fiberglass insulation to slow down temperature swings is plenty for what I intend to do in the building. HVAC can come later on down the road when I'm older and actually care about how cold/hot it is in there. Till then I'll add/subtract clothing layers and tough it out.

 

[billconner]

After a lot of research I've decided stick built is least expensive. I'm retired so have time to diy. I've wood framed several additions. I live near an Amish community so have access to rough cut at about half the cost of local lumber yard, and am attracted to the look of an all rough cut building. (No insulation or conditioning, so I see it inside and out. It's a barn.)

Like you, not comfortable pouring and finishing slab - nearly half the estimated cost of project. On the other hand, fools do rush in.

 

[stimpee]

My building, which was pole structure built on top of a turned slab, 30x60x12, 4/12 roof with 2/12 scissor trusses, two garage door openings and 2 man doors, 3 3x3 windows, not including the slab was 29k.

The turned slab including earth work, was 14.5k. I added in under floor insulation and tubing/manifold for floor heat for another $2600 (materials only, I did the labor for that).

18x10 and 12x10 R18+ garage doors installed $5300

I have added some additional exterior concrete work, gutters, just did spray foam insulation today, and another 8k+ for electrical/lights.

It adds up really quickly. But my total price finished up the way I want it will be under about $55/sqft

 

[The Wolff]

Central Tennessee---40 x 60 pole barn w/12 foot walls and a 12 x 60 covered lean-to as well. Insulated walls, 6" concrete floor, 300 ft gravel road to lead up to it and a 24 x 47 foot drive pad in front cost me about $85K total. I am very happy with the construction. They used scissor trusses so I have almost 16-ft clear span in the center.

 

[Max78]

To continue the conversation over here from the other thread.

I chose to go the cheapest, most involved rout of doing the majority of the work myself, and overseeing the work I didn't do. I have time, and the ability to do the work. I also enjoy doing these things.

I really did look at doing a poll building vs a steel building. The price for a wood building was more expensive than the Mueller building I purchased. Trusses were also very difficult for me to source, and I'm not going to make my own that span 30ft. I did the steel building because it is an engineered building with all the load calculations already done. One of my neighbors built their own garage and it collapsed in a big storm, I don't want to take that kind of chance.

I chose to do a monolithic slab with anchors drilled after the fact, it was the cheapest pour labor wise for me. Pumps, conveyor, or buggies are needed if you do a pour after the walls are up. Pumping also changes the mix and increase price on the raw material, at least it does here. I decided to do drilled anchors after the fact because I was worried about a potential blow out or accident shifting my templates and causing bigger issues.

Important things to consider if doing it yourself.

I purchased the building direct from a manufacturer, and set up delivery. It was my responsibility to insure the delivery truck (40ft semi) was able to drop the materials where I wanted them. I had to cut part of my gate so the material would fit through. Otherwise they WILL drop it on the side of the road.

I did all the foundation prep. I ordered the ABC, layered, and compacted it all to grade with a skid steer I already owned. I didn't have a fancy laser level so I made myself a water level. I rented a mini excavator to dig the footers, etc.

I set the forms making sure they were square and strong enough to withstand a bump here or there and not blow out. Laid out, tied, and put the rebar on dobies because "pulling up" is unreliable in my experience.

I was super worried about getting a good pour and finish. Being that I did all the prep work, which is vital to a stable and strong slab, I waived any warranties. I reached out to 2 concrete delivery companies and asked for referrals. I reached out to all and made a spreadsheet. I asked them all detailed questions about the process and ran away from the ones that said they would add water here or there, or spray it with water. I also inquired about how they would handle the 100+ degree day pour. The most knowledgeable just happened to be the cheapest, and was actually a driver for the company. All of the companies listed on Google were either not interested or expensive, $5000 in just pour and finish labor.

I had the guy doing the pour set up the batch how he liked it, I verified it and paid the plant directly after addressing any concerns.

They came, poured, and finished. The slab looks amazing, and there were no issues during the process.

My red iron building costs so far.
30x40 red iron building delivered ($10,500) Bare kit no insulation or roll up door, just an opening.
24 Tons of ABC ($750)
Compactor Rental ($200)
Excavator Rental ($300)
Concrete Forms and Stakes ($600) Crazy high wood prices!
Rebar, Rebar Chairs, and Wire ($1000)
Concrete labor ($1600)
30 yards of Concrete ($5200) Hot weather + high flow = $$$ Water reducer, cold water, fiber, all adds up.
Saw rental for cutting joints ($100)
Anchors ($400)
Scissor lift rental ($650) I was hesitant to spend this but it would have been impossible to get it done without it.

If I didn't have my own skid steer that would be another $1000.

I'm around the 23K mark with all the small nickel and dime expenses not captured here. Several Turn key red iron buildings of the same size were quoted 38k to 50k, minus the concrete. Several of the modular tube buildings were quoted at 20k for erection on a slab that was not included in the price. Several concrete contractors wanted 8k to 10k in just labor for site prep pour and finish.

If you have any specific questions let me know.

This is where I am currently at and it has cost me about $23k so far. 30x40 with 12ft walls. No electricity or big door, and insulation was free (that would add another $4k for the R19 I have)

 

[Onebean]

I’ll comment on the advantages/disadvantages part of your question. I put up a 46’x60’ pole barn about 8 years ago. It was dirt cheap at right around $22,000 for the supplies and the erection. I added another $18,000 in concrete floor, and overhead door approach, and with misc stuff like minimal electrical, site prep, and a crushed concrete driveway, I was all in at about $50,000. The building is bare bones. No insulation, and the poles were set below the frost line with a concrete pad under the pole preventing it from sinking, and packed gravel around the poles, no concrete footings. The 6” slab was pored after the building was up. The building was intended for camper and car storage, and works perfect for my needs. My only real complaint, is the building moves around a bit. I know this, because I’ve had to have my overhead door adjusted a couple times over the 8 years, and the overhead door guys tell me that it’s moving around a little. This causes the door (20’ wide x 14’ tall) to drag a little going open and closed. If I were to build another building with the intent of finishing the interior and sealing it up good for heat and AC, I would consider another pole barn, but insist the poles be set in a concrete footing. Good luck with your project.

 

[quakerj]

Hey fellas, hope some folks are still subscribed; I'm a bit late getting back to the party.

I've decided on a 30x50x12 steel building from Mueller. Base cost with nothing but a 12x10 framed opening for garage door (not included) is a bit shy of $17k. That's the cheapest I've found and only because I'd be purchasing one of their "standard" kits with zero modifications to it. But I think the steel building is a better buy than pole/wood framing, and I'm much more comfortable with erecting a steel building.

Their delivery added another $2500, I'm curious if anyone that has purchased a Mueller building has been able to arrange shipping themselves to save money...? In either event, I can't have them deliver here, because I don't think a semi will turn into my driveway, I'd have to have it delivered to my work and cart it home using one of my work's medium duty flatbeds. So I might be better off using a freight broker just to get it to my work which is a commercial address. I guess that's a possible question for Mueller, unless someone knows.

I'm working on getting prices from concrete contractors at the moment. I intend to pour footings myself, but I'd much prefer a contractor pour and finish the main slab. Seems the consensus from talking to folks here is to pour a 1' wide footing, 24" deep where I live (northern KY). Does that sound right?

The first concrete contractor seemed to be discouraging me from going with 5" thick, and said 4" 4000PSF concrete would do just fine, with a thicker area where my 2-post lift will go. I still prefer 5" for the whole slab, and 6" where my lift is going. I believe their recommendation is largely because they want to use 2x4's for forms as they're a residential outfit, but who knows. Also they suggested using fiber reinforced concrete as opposed to laying down wire mesh. Is one better than the other? Anyone have any recommendations on concrete for this 30x50 slab? The heaviest vehicle I'll ever have in there is probably a 1/2 ton pickup, or possibly a 3/4 ton pickup on rare occasions. And other than a 2-post lift, I'll have no equipment that has a heavy point load-- just the usual garage stuff like air compressor, toolboxes, etc.

Hope to keep this thread going as I'm well into the planning at this point. Hope to break ground by early April or so. Appreciate all the responses so far!

 

[yugami]

There is literally no reason to go with the extra thick slab your thinking about based on what you're doing, especially with 4000psi concrete.

 

[quakerj]

There is literally no reason to go with the extra thick slab your thinking about based on what you're doing, especially with 4000psi concrete.

Appreciate your response. I’ve got a friend that used to be a contractor that’s advising me on a lot of stuff, but he tends to be a perfectionist, especially with someone else’s money. So I have to find some middle ground. He was saying 6” pour, so that’s why I chose 5”.

Sounds like 4” is okay for the slab? Concrete contractor told me 4000PSF was what they’d normally use for a building of this type. Should I just dig down deeper for a thicker pour where the 2-post lift is going? How thick? Recommendations from lift manufacturers run the gamut, looking for a happy medium of sorts, as this building will be purely for personal use, working on my own vehicles, nothing too heavy duty. But I do keep the old saying, do it once and do it right, in the back of my mind, within reason.

 

[billconner]

I believe the 4" and fibermesh will be fine if the base is good - well excavated to undisturbed earth, no organics, and a very well compacted gravel base. Thicker slab and/or steel might compensate for poor base.

 

[yugami]

I installed a 2 post (the C7000 style moveable) and had them do a 4 1/2" strip that allowed for 2 mounting points at different depths from the garage door.

4" everywhere else. Waited a month to put any weight on it and then parked a F250 in one side and a trailer full of walnut logs on the other for a few days. The trailer weighed around 12000 lbs. or so on double axle. Concrete didn't notice.

 

[stimpee]

I did my slab at 4" of fiber reinforced concrete - 4000psi pump mix. That was poured on top of a base that had 2" foam board underneath and tubing for radiant heat.

I did 2 4'x4' pads that are roughly 7-8" thick for 2 post lift mounting, and another pad area roughly 5'x8' at 7-8" for possibility of a future CNC machine base.

Since I am in middle TN, my turned edges were less deep that yours, a bit over a foot wide, and roughly 12-14" deep.

Mine is 30x60, and I think I used 33 yards for the pour.

 

[Smiles79]

Check out Mueller Steel Buildings. They quoted me around $18k for a 30x40 kit, one walk in door, one 10' overhead door, and 3" vinyl installed. I'm pretty confident I can run power, internet, heat it, build a small office when it's own climate control, for $28k.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

Hey fellas, hope some folks are still subscribed; I'm a bit late getting back to the party.

I've decided on a 30x50x12 steel building from Mueller. Base cost with nothing but a 12x10 framed opening for garage door (not included) is a bit shy of $17k. That's the cheapest I've found and only because I'd be purchasing one of their "standard" kits with zero modifications to it. But I think the steel building is a better buy than pole/wood framing, and I'm much more comfortable with erecting a steel building.

Their delivery added another $2500, I'm curious if anyone that has purchased a Mueller building has been able to arrange shipping themselves to save money...? In either event, I can't have them deliver here, because I don't think a semi will turn into my driveway, I'd have to have it delivered to my work and cart it home using one of my work's medium duty flatbeds. So I might be better off using a freight broker just to get it to my work which is a commercial address. I guess that's a possible question for Mueller, unless someone knows.

I'm working on getting prices from concrete contractors at the moment. I intend to pour footings myself, but I'd much prefer a contractor pour and finish the main slab. Seems the consensus from talking to folks here is to pour a 1' wide footing, 24" deep where I live (northern KY). Does that sound right?

The first concrete contractor seemed to be discouraging me from going with 5" thick, and said 4" 4000PSF concrete would do just fine, with a thicker area where my 2-post lift will go. I still prefer 5" for the whole slab, and 6" where my lift is going. I believe their recommendation is largely because they want to use 2x4's for forms as they're a residential outfit, but who knows. Also they suggested using fiber reinforced concrete as opposed to laying down wire mesh. Is one better than the other? Anyone have any recommendations on concrete for this 30x50 slab? The heaviest vehicle I'll ever have in there is probably a 1/2 ton pickup, or possibly a 3/4 ton pickup on rare occasions. And other than a 2-post lift, I'll have no equipment that has a heavy point load-- just the usual garage stuff like air compressor, toolboxes, etc.

Hope to keep this thread going as I'm well into the planning at this point. Hope to break ground by early April or so. Appreciate all the responses so far!

Have the prices come down lately since last year? 17k is pretty cheap.

 

[Max78]

Delivery for my 30x40x12 from Mueller was $250. . . . I don't know why and I didn't ask, he said something about being within range even though the truck came from Texas. . . .

Some of the beams will be over 20 feet long and banded together, so a flatbed truck might not be the best option. a 17 or 20 ft trailer would be preferable.

The truck was not going to be able to enter my property either, so I made sure to inform them that they would need to park about 500 feet away and drive it the rest of the way on the forklift. Mueller agreed and the driver was more than willing. There were some tight spots but it all worked out and they ended up dropping it exactly where I wanted it.

They will only give you a hand full of useless 2x4's to drop the material on, I strongly recommend getting some free pallets or more wood to keep your materials out of the dirt. Its also going to be questionably small amount of materials when delivered, but absolutely verify you got everything! They only give you 14 days to report damaged and or missing parts. It is also your responsibility to insure you get all of the parts off the truck. Its not hard, and everything is labeled pretty clearly.

The slab is absolutely vital so error on the side of bigger but within reason. I went with 3500psi fiber reinforced with #4 rebar every 18", stupid big and deep footers and 5 to 5.5" thick. I had about 1 yard left over out of the 30 I ordered.

This is literally everything for a 30x40 with 12ft walls, it seems like not enough parts but they are experts at packing, and they were a ***** to get apart!

 

[quakerj]

Delivery for my 30x40x12 from Mueller was $250. . . . I don't know why and I didn't ask, he said something about being within range even though the truck came from Texas. . . .

Some of the beams will be over 20 feet long and banded together, so a flatbed truck might not be the best option. a 17 or 20 ft trailer would be preferable.

The truck was not going to be able to enter my property either, so I made sure to inform them that they would need to park about 500 feet away and drive it the rest of the way on the forklift. Mueller agreed and the driver was more than willing. There were some tight spots but it all worked out and they ended up dropping it exactly where I wanted it.

They will only give you a hand full of useless 2x4's to drop the material on, I strongly recommend getting some free pallets or more wood to keep your materials out of the dirt. Its also going to be questionably small amount of materials when delivered, but absolutely verify you got everything! They only give you 14 days to report damaged and or missing parts. It is also your responsibility to insure you get all of the parts off the truck. Its not hard, and everything is labeled pretty clearly.

The slab is absolutely vital so error on the side of bigger but within reason. I went with 3500psi fiber reinforced with #4 rebar every 18", stupid big and deep footers and 5 to 5.5" thick. I had about 1 yard left over out of the 30 I ordered.

This is literally everything for a 30x40 with 12ft walls, it seems like not enough parts but they are experts at packing, and they were a ***** to get apart!

That's great info, I appreciate that!

When I mentioned medium duty flatbed, I'm talking about an International 4300 medium duty truck with 24' flatbed. I've brought that home from work a bunch of times and I can make the corner into my driveway with a wide turn no problem, but I don't think a semi has a chance.. So I don't think I'll have any issues getting the material here, and it might be less expensive to have it shipped to a commercial address (at my work). That $250 shipping makes me jealous. I'll have to question them more on that to see how/if I can bring the $2500 delivery price down. They also quoted 10% tax, but I suspect that's just an estimate as KY has a 6% tax. Did you pay state sales tax on yours?

Did you erect the building yourself? Curious how long it took and what equipment you used. I'm trying to figure out how much help I'll need and how much time to allot to it.

 

[buddha2364]

They want 73k for mine. 50x60-18 I told them today I was gonna hold off. The price is double what it was in January.

Ridicolous.

 

[Hobby_Man22]

Ridicolous.

I guess I need to just get a quote from another manufacturer. I'm kind of waiting for steel to come down which is seems to be lately because it seems like once they quote you they won't really budge even if the cost goes down.

 

[Max78]

Oh geez, I was thinking F450 flatbed or something, That would work perfectly.

I paid 5.6% sales tax here in AZ.

I put it up with friends and family, some of which are not mechanically inclined at all!!!

I rented a 19ft scissor lift for a week. It would have been damn near impossible without it. ladders tall enough were super pricey, and its super unsafe lifting beams while trying to walk up ladders. The bigger structures have a massive main beam that weights around 400lbs after assembled, so you need a lift of some kind to get that into position, we used the scissor lift. Doing the the rolls of insulation would also have been a nightmare without it. The scissor lift never left the concrete pad yet we used it for everything. the extension that overhangs makes it extremely useful.

Scissor lift
12ft ladder
10ft ladder
2 Spud wrenches (These help tremendously!!!)
Impact drivers
drills (set chuck slip for sheet screws to avoid over compressing the washer)
Big *** breaker bar and necessary sockets for the structural bolts. (Instructions are tighten bolts and then turn additional "X" amount of turns)

First day I had around 6 people helping, everyone separated and staged the materials where I wanted them while I drilled the anchors and prepared the slab. Myself and 3 others after that for a solid 5 days working about 8 hours a day. This was only the second one we put up so I was taking my time and being very cautious. There are some issues but I very happy with the results.

The main beam will require at least 3 people, everything else can be done with only 2 people. Any more than that just makes it a little faster and easier.

It took me 2 full days to go from banded on pallets to frame up and squared. I spent way too long cutting in the door and adding trim. Then we insulated and skinned the walls, then the roof. I was still doing little things here and there at day 7 but the major work was completed.

Maybe I will make a build thread with what I did and people can point out what I did wrong . Right or wrong, its done and I did it.

 

[quakerj]

Oh geez, I was thinking F450 flatbed or something, That would work perfectly.

I paid 5.6% sales tax here in AZ.

I put it up with friends and family, some of which are not mechanically inclined at all!!!

I rented a 19ft scissor lift for a week. It would have been damn near impossible without it. ladders tall enough were super pricey, and its super unsafe lifting beams while trying to walk up ladders. The bigger structures have a massive main beam that weights around 400lbs after assembled, so you need a lift of some kind to get that into position, we used the scissor lift. Doing the the rolls of insulation would also have been a nightmare without it. The scissor lift never left the concrete pad yet we used it for everything. the extension that overhangs makes it extremely useful.

Scissor lift
12ft ladder
10ft ladder
2 Spud wrenches (These help tremendously!!!)
Impact drivers
drills (set chuck slip for sheet screws to avoid over compressing the washer)
Big *** breaker bar and necessary sockets for the structural bolts. (Instructions are tighten bolts and then turn additional "X" amount of turns)

First day I had around 6 people helping, everyone separated and staged the materials where I wanted them while I drilled the anchors and prepared the slab. Myself and 3 others after that for a solid 5 days working about 8 hours a day. This was only the second one we put up so I was taking my time and being very cautious. There are some issues but I very happy with the results.

The main beam will require at least 3 people, everything else can be done with only 2 people. Any more than that just makes it a little faster and easier.

It took me 2 full days to go from banded on pallets to frame up and squared. I spent way too long cutting in the door and adding trim. Then we insulated and skinned the walls, then the roof. I was still doing little things here and there at day 7 but the major work was completed.

Maybe I will make a build thread with what I did and people can point out what I did wrong . Right or wrong, its done and I did it.

This helps me tremendously. I was figuring on 3-4 friends that are mechanically inclined, and I have two young teenagers that can do grunt/gopher work. I'm hoping to only use a week vacation from work, so nine working days including the weekends. My biggest fear is weather being a huge variable as I intend to start erecting the building in late April, which in KY can be any kind of weather-- rain, snow, hot & sunny, strong storms, who knows...

Ironically, I do structural steel fabrication for a living, but I haven't spent a great deal of time or have much experience out in the field installing. We build the heavy stuff for custom commercial buildings, schools and such, so this light gauge 30x50 workshop will be a little out of my wheelhouse, but I'm good at reading prints so I think I'll be just fine.

I can borrow most everything on that list from work, including the scissor lift, except I'm thinking I'll need to rent a boom forklift to raise the columns and lift the heavier members into place.

Did your plans have you setting anchors after the pad was poured (i.e hammer drill with wedge/expansion anchors)? Mueller won't provide any plans until after I commit and I'm curious as to whether I'll have to set anchor bolts before the pour, or whether I'll drill and install them afterward.

 

[Max78]

Mueller will sell you wet set anchors for way too much, and tell you where they need to go on the slab. They will not give you a specification on actual anchor requirements however. I believe those requirements will come from your county. Weather or not you need to wet set, or can do post install will depend on your county requirements.

I drilled in anchors after the fact because I didn't trust my forms not to shift during the pour. Glad I did because one corner shifted just slightly. I used the Hot dipped Titan HD anchors to secure my building. All anchors are the longest I could get in their respective size, my footers are 24" deep.

Edit: your post reminded me about the weather. We lost a day and a half because the wind. We still had it done in 7 days or so with the loss.

 

[quakerj]

I did my slab at 4" of fiber reinforced concrete - 4000psi pump mix. That was poured on top of a base that had 2" foam board underneath and tubing for radiant heat.

I did 2 4'x4' pads that are roughly 7-8" thick for 2 post lift mounting, and another pad area roughly 5'x8' at 7-8" for possibility of a future CNC machine base.

Since I am in middle TN, my turned edges were less deep that yours, a bit over a foot wide, and roughly 12-14" deep.

Mine is 30x60, and I think I used 33 yards for the pour.

If I might ask, what did the concrete run you? I'm assuming my pour is similar to yours given that yours is greater square footage, but mine will require deeper footers. I'm not doing tubing for radiant heat though, so that might be a big variable. Did you shop several concrete contractors / how did you approach getting the best price vs. quality? Trying to gather as much information as I can. I have one contractor currently working up an estimate for the slab/footings, and will probably get a couple more from other companies.

 

[stimpee]

I found my concrete contractor via some strong recommendations from a few friend/neighbors that had recently had buildings done. He did a good job. Maybe not "great" job, in that he didnt "grade" the concrete in the one section of the shop toward the drain as well as I would have liked, and when I had him come back to do driveways/aprons he could have done a better job with offsets at the man door and the garage doors for drainage.

That said, I paid him for labor. I purchased the rock, vapor barrier, concrete, and pump - although he took care of calling in all but the vapor barrier. I also laid down the insulation myself under the floor, and I intsalled the floor tubing and manifold with the help of a good friend.

Summary of costs:

Labor (site prep, pour, finishing) - $7400
Rock (3 loads) - $1654.40
Concrete (33yd) - $4521.87
Pump rental - $768.95
Vapor Barrier - $141.98

TOTAL: $14,487.20
Roughly $8.05/sqft completed

For the radiant floor:

Insulation - $1656.23
Tubing and manifold - $680.24
PEX clips for tubing - $297.47
Outer foundation insulation (with acrylic coating) - $606.70

TOTAL for floor insulation and heat: $3,240.64



This was all done around Feb 2021 in the greater Nashville area (about 25 miles outside the city)

 

[quakerj]

I've semi-finalized my plans and here's what I've come up with:

About to send in my down payment to Mueller for a 30x50x12 "custom" building-- I had initially wanted their standard kit.

I had some issues with my county zoning/permitting office balking at Mueller's standard kit only being engineered to IBC-2012. KY wants to see IBC-2015 I'm told. Long story short, I had to get Mueller to send me some preliminary plans which they agreed to do, for the county to review. I furnished the county with prelim plans for the standard kit (IBC-2012) and Mueller's custom building that would be engineered to IBC-2015. In the end, the building inspector for the county approved both, so left the choice up to me.

The standard kit has a higher windspeed rating (140mph), snow load (20psf) and assorted other parameters that exceed my county's requirements (county requires 115mph wind, 15psf snow), which the custom building meets exactly (no more, no less). Custom building was $5 more. The choice was a more substantial building (standard kit), or being able to customize one, which allowed me the larger 16x10 door opening I wanted. I spoke to my Mueller rep about this, and he said he considers even the custom building "over-engineered" and that the 140mph wind speed rating on their standard kit was mainly because they sell them in hurricane-prone areas where that high a rating is a requirement. He didn't think a higher windspeed rating would be of any benefit to me, and suggested I make the decision based on how important the bigger door opening was for me-- I decided on the custom building.

Finding a concrete contractor was a chore, the first couple I visited with gave me the impression they like to go fast and CHEAP. One guy even said I was wasting my money putting a footer under the door opening (??). Their prices were a bit lower than the one I settled on, but the guy I picked was on the same page with me about what I wanted, and didn't encourage me to cheap out on stuff, plus he showed me some of his work and his terms are that he doesn't get paid a penny until the job is done and I'm satisfied-- that was encouraging. Quote was $5,790 for labor to form/pour footers and slab, finish work, and a 9' wide apron on side of building, and 4' apron on front. I'll be responsible for site prep, concrete, wire mesh, vapor barrier and rock/gravel.

Concrete should be poured in mid to late April (soonest the concrete guy can work me in), building should be delivered and be put up in early May if all goes well.

 

[70runner]

Is Mueller going to deliver the structure? Noticed that KY is outside the service area on their website. I'm in similar situation, San Diego county, their service area only extends to AZ. Asked them for a quote (35 x 25 x 12) anyway, we'll see what they say. Did you get any color samples from them before finalizing your order?

 

[quakerj]

Is Mueller going to deliver the structure? Noticed that KY is outside the service area on their website. I'm in similar situation, San Diego county, their service area only extends to AZ. Asked them for a quote (35 x 25 x 12) anyway, we'll see what they say. Did you get any color samples from them before finalizing your order?

Mueller happily quoted delivering the kit with their truck, to the tune of $2,750. They told me I have plenty of time to choose (either pickup or deliver), basically till when the building is ready. My work has contacts with a couple freight brokers (for shipping regionally/across country), so I'm going to see how the price compares to have a third party pick it up and deliver it to me. The building kit weighs 10K lb, and longest piece is 26', so I imagine a "hotshot" (typically a 3/4 or 1 ton pickup with a trailer) can do it cheaper than having Mueller deliver it. I'll have freight quotes soon.

I didn't even know Mueller furnished color samples until after I ordered, which they promptly sent out. I was just going off the colors shown on their website, knowing I could find one that would be close enough. I counted 31 color options for my walls/trim (roof will be standard galvalume), and while I'm sure it won't be a perfect match to my house, it'll be close enough for my "neighborhood" aesthetics (rural area), where often accessory buildings don't match at all. They told me I have plenty of time to choose a color, didn't need to provide that information at the time of order.