Loose nuts mean lost nuts.

[MJ_]

I have a small wheelbarrow that is held together with bolts and flanged nuts. The nuts have a little flange on them with tiny teeth that are supposed to keep them in place. But, due to the constant swaying and twisting inherent in a cheap-o garden tool, the nuts frequently wiggle themselves off. This usually happens while I'm moving.

What I am hoping to find out is if I can simply add a secondary nut after the first one and torque it down firmly in an attempt to lock things in place. Would I be better off just applying a little thread-lock? Perhaps using nylon nuts would be even better still?

All responses are appreciated.
Thanks.

 

[PoorOwner]

You can use threadmate VC3 on the male thread (bolt), it will act as if you had a nylon lock nut.

the flange is just a little better than a regular nut, once they are loosen they will back off quick.

 

[matt_i]

Loctite is the easiest way out.

Or you could carefully dimple the thread at the top of the nut with a punch or cold chisel. Just a little tweak. Don't need to bash it into submission. But enough to give a deformed thread that will lock the nut metal-to-metal.

A more exotic solution would be to cross-drill the shaft, both ends, and use a castle nut.

 

[n8n]

Or, you could replace the nuts with Nylocs and see if that sorts it.

 

[PelicanPines]

I like putting threadlock on my nuts

 

[isb cornbinder]

With all of the money you saved with buying a cheap wheelbarrow, you could add a magnetic bar that drags along behind and attracts the nuts for later installation.

Double nutting or locking fluid are both great ideas.

 

[MJ_]

You guys are all great. I appreciate the input.

For anyone interested in a small story... This wheelbarrow of mine is a True Temper branded model that I picked up at the local big-and-orange about sixteen years ago. About every five years or so, I will find the exact same model left for dead on the side of a street because of missing hardware or a front brace which never works the way it should. I have cannibalized no less than three donor models for tires, hardware, newer basins and fresher handles. The wheelbarrow that I picked up for thirty-five bucks originally keeps getting reincarnated into a fusion of my neighbors' regrettable buying decisions.

-Keep telling myself I will buy something better next year, like one of those nice-looking Jackson branded jobs with the beefy handles. But, I keep finding parts for my old shabby one.

 

[brownbagg]

hit the bolt with a hammer, they never come off

 

[larry_g]

Tighten the nuts down and hit them with the arc welder.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[PFSard]

I'm cheap. I'd continue to cannibalize. Double-nuts on the culprits with Anti-Seize compound.

 

[ItsNemo]

Just hit em' with some blue loctite.

 

[rburke65]

Nyloks...nylock nuts or Loctite. Drill and cotter pins.

 

[bwringer]

NASA-spec safety wire. It's the only way.

 

[KEH]

Agree to use 2 nuts, tightened against each other, AKA known as Jam nuts.

OP's experience with donor wheelbarrows reminds me of the joke about Abraham Lincoln's axe. Some guy said the had an ax once owned by Lincoln, it had had 10 replacement handles and 4 new ax heads, but it was the original ax.

I also have rebuilt found dead wheelbarrows. Wheels and tires are big replacement items and I've found its best just to buy a new wheel with bearings and a new tire on it.

Handles are another common problem. I have started getting an oak 2 x 4 and cutting out handles on a band saw. Instead of replacing the triangular piece of wood under the tub which often is lost, I just add that dimension to the sawed out handle so that I have one piece handles. The carriage bolts that the factory fastens the tub to the handles with usually loosens, as the OP said, and wears out the wood so that the square shoulder buggers out the hole in the bottom of the tub. I gave up and started using machine bolts with a flat washer and just live with the minor obstruction in the bottom of the tub.

KEH

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,..... I ramrod a blacktop crew, the wheelbarrow is the 2nd most important tool on a jobsite,.....

I recommend MJ, just toss the flange lock nuts, 'n use a plain ole flat washer, 'n ny-lock nuts,......

I also have rebuilt found dead wheelbarrows. Wheels and tires are big replacement items and I've found its best just to buy a new wheel with bearings and a new tire on it.

Back before I found the air-less solid type wheelbarrow tires, 'n there was a jobsite emergency,.....
I went to an Ace hardware to grab a replacement tire/ wheel, 'n found a complete new wheelbarrow was $3,bucks Cheaper,.....

'n, Btw,.... Since I found the air-less tires, I now carry fresh wheel bearin's in my parts box,....

 

[NUTTSGT]

A lil dab of clear RTV will keep them from coming off.

 

[KEH]

I never did get the tires and wheels from Ace hardware, but y,our comment is correct. I think I got the last one from Harbor Freight. Next choice will be the foam filled tires.

KEH

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

hit the bolt with a hammer, they never come off

I was thinking giving them a whack with a cold chisel. But the hammer works for me and only have to put one tool back.

 

[shaggyant]

Tighten the nuts down and hit them with the arc welder.

lg
no neat sig line

I agree. If you burn it in with the welder they a guaranteed to never come loose and you can always cut it back off with a grinder.

 

[Justind97]

A lil dab of clear RTV will keep them from coming off.

This!

We use this method on the race bikes to keep the nuts that are not safety wired on the bike