loud pop from outlet
- Thread starter brit
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dipan
Well-known member
Still off and blow the circuit breaker? If so, strange as it sounds, could have been a brief short in the outlet...
Is this something I need to have replaced? Would it make a loud pop and everything go off on that outlet? (Sorry I'm blonde) lol
Yes it was the outlet computer is fine.
No it didn't trip.
KiltLifter
Well-known member
Replace the outlet, it'll cost you a dollar. safe, sorry, all that there...
You may find a loose wire on the old one, or something worse, best to check.
You may find a loose wire on the old one, or something worse, best to check.
Is this easy to do?
Too little information. This is goosechase.
Have you tested the outlet again to see if it works with something sacrificial like a lamp instead of computer?? Have you plugged computer in different known working outlet to see if computer is operational??
Does house have up-to-date electrical in general that is working??
This in USA or some other country?? Now would be good time to Update GJ Profile with City / State / Country.
Until you determine problem, be careful and unplug stuff when not in use. Use a lamp in that outlet and determine breaker and shutoff power. Then replace outlet as other GJer's have recommended.
How old are you??? Do you have someone else in house that might know something about power to check this out??
Have you tested the outlet again to see if it works with something sacrificial like a lamp instead of computer?? Have you plugged computer in different known working outlet to see if computer is operational??
Does house have up-to-date electrical in general that is working??
This in USA or some other country?? Now would be good time to Update GJ Profile with City / State / Country.
Until you determine problem, be careful and unplug stuff when not in use. Use a lamp in that outlet and determine breaker and shutoff power. Then replace outlet as other GJer's have recommended.
How old are you??? Do you have someone else in house that might know something about power to check this out??
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I tried a fan in the outlet it didn't work then I tried the next outlet on the same wall and it doesn't work either. Everything is up to date as forces I know. I do not have anyone else here to help me. I am in the US and 24 years old.
I am in the US everything is up to date as for as I know.
mrbreezeet1
Banned
sounds to me like a wire shorted and burned off, and it is also feeding the other outlet.
Need to check outlet, may be wired up into the cheap "Back stab" holes in the back of the outlet.
Need to have someone that knows about it check it for you it sounds like.
You don't want to be poking around unless you are 100% sure the breaker for that circuit is off.
Need to check outlet, may be wired up into the cheap "Back stab" holes in the back of the outlet.
Need to have someone that knows about it check it for you it sounds like.
You don't want to be poking around unless you are 100% sure the breaker for that circuit is off.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Is this a rental? If so, call the owner NOW. Probably a loose wire on the back of the receptacle, very possibly a push in back stab, worst kind. Depending on age of the building, could be aluminum wiring, it was used until the very early 1970's. Lots of homes burned down as a result of it.
Charles
Charles
pattenp
Well-known member
Here's a Youtube video of a back stabbed connection outlet that is feeding outlets downstream being replaced.
No it was my fathers, he just passed away and left it to me. What is a push in back strap?
Thank you
firebox40dash5
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- Mar 19, 2012
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A lot of outlets have holes in the back that you can just push stripped wire into, rather than doing it the right way and screwing it down. I'm not an electrician but the only time I've heard a loud pop that didn't blow a breaker was a poor connection arcing, which sounds about right for those connections.
Shut off power to it, check and double-check that it's dead upstream and downstream, and pull the outlet. Given that it popped, I'd triple-check the wires after you pull the cover to make sure they're dead, and the outlet's not just blown. New outlet should have top and bottom screws connected with a piece of metal- this can be used to divide each outlet to switch one or power them from different circuits, or to power downstream receptacles in a daisy-chain. Could've melted the jumper strap too since downstream is dead, but I kinda doubt it.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
I would recommend you get an electrician to investigate the issue asap due to the safety and potential fire risks involved.
If the breaker is off is there still a risk? I'm getting very worried now.
1/2 Cup
Member Emeritus
Leave the breaker off until It can be sorted out.
Leave the breaker off until It can be sorted out.
Thank you.
Make a phone call to older guy who was friend of your dad's (maybe neighbor).
Likely he'll know what to do.
Based on your answers, you should NOT be tearing into any wiring.
Until then, leave the breaker(s) turned off for all those questionable outlets.
Likely he'll know what to do.
Based on your answers, you should NOT be tearing into any wiring.
Until then, leave the breaker(s) turned off for all those questionable outlets.
Rookie2
Well-known member
good advice you guys!
If your not 100% confident then call a friend of dad's or an uncle or do you know anyone from highschool that took electricity in vo-tech ?
If your not 100% confident then call a friend of dad's or an uncle or do you know anyone from highschool that took electricity in vo-tech ?
KiltLifter
Well-known member
I lived in a different state than my father, I don't know anyone here to ask. I called an electrician he said 350.00 for a house call to check it out. I told him I'd call back later.
firebox40dash5
Well-known member
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Are you saying Age = Wisdom??When I was a younger man, I knew everything!
My grandfather is 84, and I've seen his wiring. I'd let my 2 year old wire things before him.
OP, if you live in middle of KS or OK, heck I'll drive to your house and fix several little electrical issues for $350 . . . . holy cow that quote is crazy IF it is just for that one outlet. Where are you located?? Quotes like that sound like New York City!!
Instead of paying the "house call $350 fee" that this electrician is quoting, I'd keep shopping other electricians. For that kind of money, you should get an entire house inspection of electrical (including repair of that problem).
You might very well need a Whole House electrical inspection based on what you are saying (ie dad dying and you knowing nothing about the house).
How old is this house??
Post up a picture of the main electrical panel. Post up pic of bad outlet.
There are some great sparky's here on GJ who will give you best free advice if you post up pictures and tell the whole story. Good luck.
Instead of paying the "house call $350 fee" that this electrician is quoting, I'd keep shopping other electricians. For that kind of money, you should get an entire house inspection of electrical (including repair of that problem).
You might very well need a Whole House electrical inspection based on what you are saying (ie dad dying and you knowing nothing about the house).
How old is this house??
Post up a picture of the main electrical panel. Post up pic of bad outlet.
There are some great sparky's here on GJ who will give you best free advice if you post up pictures and tell the whole story. Good luck.
2ManyProjects
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That loud pop is a dead give-away that SOMETHING failed catastrophically. The sound itself was likely triggered by a big fat arc (think spark) between two parts that really shouldn't ever come in contact with each other. However, where you heard the noise MIGHT not be the source of the problem; it may just have been the "path of least resistance" for the current to flow, until it burned something up badly enough to break the contact. Either way, you WILL need to replace at least some parts; details momentarily...
I presume you confirmed this by running it off a different (known good) outlet?
For future reference, one of these (or similar):
http://www.lowes.com/pd_292761-12704-61-501_4294722453__?productId=3128411
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-GCFI-Receptacle-Tester-RT200/203195019
http://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-receptacle-tester-with-gfci-diagnosis-32907.html
will come in VERY handy for diagnosing such issues, without putting your lamps, computers, whatever, at risk.
That's actually somewhat alarming. Given that there apparently at least WAS a dead short in that circuit at one point, it really SHOULD have tripped, unless the short was SO brief that it didn't get a chance to trigger. If you wind up calling in an electrician, be sure to mention this to him, and ask him to check that specific breaker for proper operation.
Good move. Until you really KNOW what is going on inside that wall, it should stay that way.
Well... While this is something that a reasonably "handy" homeowner CAN potentially handle him/herself, it depends somewhat on the skills and confidence of that particular homeowner. Skills can be learned; and I'm sure that many here will be happy to help you in that pursuit. But from the tone of your posts, it sounds like confidence might be an issue. Picking up a book on basic household electrical at your local home center might be a good idea, if for no other reason than to let you get an idea of whether or not this is something you WANT to tackle.
If you decide to give it a try, start by tracing that (now "dead") circuit all the way from the outlet in question to the breaker panel. Take note of what else is on that same circuit, and in what "order" vis-a-vis the breaker panel. You'll need to remove all the switchplates and pull the outlets themselves out of their boxes (WITHOUT disconnecting them, yet), in order to find the wires and make educated guess as to where they go after they leave the box. If this is a single-story ("Ranch") house, it will be easier to figure this out, as you should have access from both above and below to wherever the wires are run. If it is a multi-story house, it could be a major PITA.
In the course of doing this, keep a sharp lookout for anything which is obviously charred, physically broken, or has that distinctive smell of burnt electrical/electronic devices. If you find any such nasties, you've probably also just found your problem.
Once you have the circuit mapped out, and nothing really obvious has been discovered,there are at least two possible "next steps". An experienced electrician would likely re-energize the circuit (i.e., throw the breaker back "ON"), then test for voltage at each device box. The pro would likely use a fancy (and relatively expensive) meter for this; but the cheap plug-in tester noted above will do the trick in a pinch.
However, a somewhat safer (albeit, more tedious) approach might be in order for you: Step One would be to throw the main breaker in your distribution panel, then remove the breaker for the suspect circuit, and set it aside for the moment; and finally disconnect the (black) wire from the breaker, and the corresponding (white) wire from the Neutral bar. You can now turn the Main breaker on again so you can see what you're doing.
Now, with the wire completely disconnected from ALL power sources, temporarily twist those two wires together, and put a wire nut on the connection to hold it in place. Now go back upstairs (or wherever) and use an Ohm meter, such as:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/t/202867891?productId=202867891
or:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=4214667
to test the wires in each of the outlet (or wall switch, or light fixture) boxes you previously identified, starting at the one "closest" (as the wire flies) to the breaker panel. Do not (yet) disconnect the devices themselves; for if you do, you will have to re-connect any like-color wires in that box (i.e., black to black, white to white), in order to maintain an unbroken circuit to the next box in the chain. At each point along "chain", you SHOULD see a dead short (zero resistance, or damn close to it) between the black and white wires. But at some point along the line, you will probably see an open circuit (or at least a much higher resistance).
If this happens on one one pair of wires in a given outlet box, but NOT the other pair. then the device (outlet, etc.) in that box is near-certainly defective. Replace it, keeping straight which wire goes where. Now reconnect everything as "normal" (reversing the procedure noted above; don't forget to throw the Main when poking around inside the breaker panel), and re-test all the outlets with your handy-dandy outlet tester cited above.
OTOH, if both pairs of wires in one box is fine, but both pairs (or the only pair, for the device at the end of the chain) in the NEXT box are open, then you near-certainly have a wiring fault somewhere between the two boxes. This will mean replacing that run of wiring. Fishing wires through walls can be a major hassle, depending on the specific individual situation, especially if a horizontal run is involved. Exterior walls (with insulation) also tend to make life difficult. Only you know how ambitious you are (or want to be); but I'd probably farm out the job at this point, just because it's a PITA. OTOH, you just might get lucky, and be able to use the old wire to pull the new one through, IF the old wire was not securely stapled to the studs (as it really should have been).
Good luck, whichever route you take!
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Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
Is this two prong, or is it three prong (the round ground pin)? If there are four wires connected to it, and if they are back stabbed (pushed in and retained by a simple metal finger inside the outlet) they may pull out when you remove the receptacle. Remove the top and bottom screws retaining the receptacle, and take a bright light and watch carefully as you pull the receptacle out. The wires will be solid copper and stiff, give it a steady pull and watch for wires to pop out of their holes. If you see that all the wires are wrapped around the screws, then go ahead and pull it out to where you can work with it.
Nothing like having the wires come off and you not know where they go.
Generally, brass screw is black wire, silver screw is white wire, green screw is ground (probably bare wire).
Charles
Nothing like having the wires come off and you not know where they go.
Generally, brass screw is black wire, silver screw is white wire, green screw is ground (probably bare wire).
Charles
kenfath
Well-known member
Do a search for "Installing an electrical receptacle" and you will get many sources of information that will give you a good idea of what you will encounter and how to correctly and SAFELY do it yourself. Look at several of them -- it will be time well spent!
Thank you. I will start tonight.
2ManyProjects
Well-known member
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- Jul 18, 2013
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I agree. That quote, just for a "house call", is just plain fscking NUTS!
Get a different electrican, NOW. Don't EVER hire the $350 guy, for anything.
I don't know anything about the local "going rate" in that area; and if they really do have to come a VERY long way (say, an hour or more one-way), then a somewhat higher "trip charge" might be in order. But still... Around here (a much more urban area, where I would expect prices in general to be at least somewhat higher), $100 would be MORE than enough to cover the initial truck roll, even presuming both a "Master Electrician" and a "Apprentice/Helper" on board. Once he/they get there, the clock starts ticking, and the hourly rate often seems usurious; but it would still take a long time to reach $350 total.
Don't forget the book!