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loud pop from outlet

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brit

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I agree. That quote, just for a "house call", is just plain fscking NUTS!

Get a different electrican, NOW. Don't EVER hire the $350 guy, for anything.



I don't know anything about the local "going rate" in that area; and if they really do have to come a VERY long way (say, an hour or more one-way), then a somewhat higher "trip charge" might be in order. But still... Around here (a much more urban area, where I would expect prices in general to be at least somewhat higher), $100 would be MORE than enough to cover the initial truck roll, even presuming both a "Master Electrician" and a "Apprentice/Helper" on board. Once he/they get there, the clock starts ticking, and the hourly rate often seems usurious; but it would still take a long time to reach $350 total.



Don't forget the book! ;)


Thank you. I will get the book. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Stevie-Ray

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$100 would be MORE than enough to cover the initial truck roll, even presuming both a "Master Electrician" and a "Apprentice/Helper" on board. Once he/they get there, the clock starts ticking, and the hourly rate often seems usurious; but it would still take a long time to reach $350 total.
That sounds about right. I've done so much work for free for "friends" and family that I swore I'd never do it again. I was just thinking about a hundred bucks. And, if it proved nothing more than a faulty receptacle, that would cover it completely.
 

wyliesdiesels

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.....That's actually somewhat alarming. Given that there apparently at least WAS a dead short in that circuit at one point, it really SHOULD have tripped, unless the short was SO brief that it didn't get a chance to trigger. If you wind up calling in an electrician, be sure to mention this to him, and ask him to check that specific breaker for proper operation.....

Not if the breaker is an FPE or Zinsco brand! Those are NOTORIOUS for not tripping when they should! And FPEs have caused many house fires!!
 

Thruxton

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Excellent advice above, and I would just add two comments. My guess is the pop was a wire melting, not a short, and probably from being bent or nicked during installation. That could account for the breaker not tripping (the bad conductor acted as a fuse for the circuit). The other thing is if this indeed is a back stabbed receptacle there may not be enough slack in the outlet box to easily install a receptacle that uses wraparound terminals, so you may want to spend an extra buck or so and get a commercial grade back wired receptacle (not back stabbed! back wired means the wires are clamped by a piece underneath the screw). This might make things easier.
 
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brit

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did you pull the outlet out and have a look yet?

I just finished. The wires looked good no burn marks or scorched places. The receptacle itself looked good a little old maybe. I replaced it with a gfi outlet. I got the book home electrical made easy, also watched tons of videos. Once all was back in place I turned the breaker on and it worked. I feel so proud. Thank you all so much for all the advice. :bounce:
 

KiltLifter

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It drives me crazy when you can't find the cause, but glad it works. Downstream as well I'm assuming?
So did your computer plug have any discoloration on any of the blades?
 
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brit

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It drives me crazy when you can't find the cause, but glad it works. Downstream as well I'm assuming?
So did your computer plug have any discoloration on any of the blades?

Yes all the others work as well. No no damage to the computer plug.
 

djb2

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Replacing an outlet/switch and wiring a fixed lamp (e.g. ceiling light) are simple jobs that every homeowner should learn how to do correctly.

There is little risk if you verify that you've switched off the correct breaker. It's much safer than leaving a flaky, cracked or marginal parts in service.

It's pretty easy to take most outlets apart to verify the failure. Most cheap ones have a friction pin (pretty much a nail with a roughened shaft) holding them together and can be pried apart. Better ones have a through rivet, which can be punched out, or just break apart the case.
 

2ManyProjects

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I just finished. The wires looked good no burn marks or scorched places. The receptacle itself looked good a little old maybe. I replaced it with a gfi outlet. I got the book home electrical made easy, also watched tons of videos. Once all was back in place I turned the breaker on and it worked. I feel so proud. Thank you all so much for all the advice. :bounce:

Congratulations! :D :beer: :D

I'm pleased that it all worked out so well for you -- and on your first try, yet! :thumbup:

 

mrbreezeet1

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yeah l was thinking take the outlet apart


Replacing an outlet/switch and wiring a fixed lamp (e.g. ceiling light) are simple jobs that every homeowner should learn how to do correctly.

There is little risk if you verify that you've switched off the correct breaker. It's much safer than leaving a flaky, cracked or marginal parts in service.

It's pretty easy to take most outlets apart to verify the failure. Most cheap ones have a friction pin (pretty much a nail with a roughened shaft) holding them together and can be pried apart. Better ones have a through rivet, which can be punched out, or just break apart the case.
 

MFolks

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No, it's called a back stab, as the wires instead of being tightened to screws on the outside of the outlet, are actually pushed in the back, through openings, gripped by friction devises. This type of connection will get loose with time, potentially causing heat and maybe fire. So have a qualified electrician check the outlet out.

Back stabbing is a quick way of wiring outlets, as no creating the hook to fit the screws is needed, but I believe it's lead to many house fires.
 

wyliesdiesels

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I just finished. The wires looked good no burn marks or scorched places. The receptacle itself looked good a little old maybe. I replaced it with a gfi outlet. I got the book home electrical made easy, also watched tons of videos. Once all was back in place I turned the breaker on and it worked. I feel so proud. Thank you all so much for all the advice. :bounce:

Why did u replace it with a GFCI?
 
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brit

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Why did u replace it with a GFCI?

Well, as I'm not familiar with the house yet I went with this. It is going to have my computer in this outlet so after doing a little research I thought couldn't hurt anything to go with this.
 

pattenp

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The GFCI helps protect people from getting shocked from faulty wiring. To protect the computer you need to use a surge protector outlet strip or outlet.
 
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brit

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The GFCI helps protect people from getting shocked from faulty wiring. To protect the computer you need to use a surge protector outlet strip or outlet.

I have a surge protector for the computer. This was my first ever doing this.
 

BFBOB

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Congratulations!
We were all first-timers once; nobody is born knowing this stuff. Doesn't it feel great not to be at the mercy of other fixers? Just always bear in mind safety first. Sounds like you're doing that -- keep it up and you'll live long and prosper.
And, you're correct - the GFI won't hurt anything (except your credit card) even if it's of no real benefit in this application.

I have a surge protector for the computer. This was my first ever doing this.
 
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brit

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Congratulations!
We were all first-timers once; nobody is born knowing this stuff. Doesn't it feel great not to be at the mercy of other fixers? Just always bear in mind safety first. Sounds like you're doing that -- keep it up and you'll live long and prosper.
And, you're correct - the GFI won't hurt anything (except your credit card) even if it's of no real benefit in this application.

Thank you! It feels awesome to have some many here with such great advice. I am grateful to all of you, I couldn't have done it without your help. :beer: :bounce:
 

wyliesdiesels

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Well, as I'm not familiar with the house yet I went with this. It is going to have my computer in this outlet so after doing a little research I thought couldn't hurt anything to go with this.

I wouldnt use a GFCI to feed a computer because if there is the slightest leakage of current to ground on the load side of the GFCI, then it will trip and your computer will loose power causing a possible loss of data!

If u decide to leave the GFCI, I would get a UPS/battery backup if u do any mission critical work on your computer where a loss of data could put u out of business!
 
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bczygan

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There are many people who go their whole lives without having the knowledge that you now possess.
That you would seek it out and use it, shows a desire for self reliance that is a lost art today.
You are among the special few. And you are in like company, people who appreciate this way of being.
 
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brit

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I wouldnt use a GFCI to feed a computer because if there is the slightest leakage of current to ground on the load side of the GFCI, then it will trip and your computer will loose power causing a possible loss of data!

If u decide to leave the GFCI, I would get a UPS/battery backup if u do any mission critical work on your computer where a loss of data could put u out of business!

I don't use it for anything important, just email Facebook I have a cloud backup that backs up daily. Should I change it maybe?:question:
 
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brit

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There are many people who go their whole lives without having the knowledge that you now possess.
That you would seek it out and use it, shows a desire for self reliance that is a lost art today.
You are among the special few. And you are in like company, people who appreciate this way of being.

Thank You.
 

CNGsaves

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If you're certain that the root cause of problem was the replaced outlet, then I'd take advice of Wyliesdiesels (an electrician) and put in normal outlet. Having a single GFCI outlet in one bedroom doesn't make sense, as will lead to confusion later as to why it's there.

Keeping your computer safe would be assured if you had a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) that would give runtime on battery if power went out, and also protect against lightning, power surge, etc.

Very reputable company is American Power Conversion.
http://www.apc.com/products/category.cfm?id=13
 
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brit

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If you're certain that the root cause of problem was the replaced outlet, then I'd take advice of Wyliesdiesels (an electrician) and put in normal outlet. Having a single GFCI outlet in one bedroom doesn't make sense, as will lead to confusion later as to why it's there.

Keeping your computer safe would be assured if you had a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) that would give runtime on battery if power went out, and also protect against lightning, power surge, etc.

Very reputable company is American Power Conversion.
http://www.apc.com/products/category.cfm?id=13

Oh my, now I'm back to being confused. I used the gfi because the outlet is near the bar area,assuming that there was a water leak at some point it would be a good idea. I don't necessarily have to put the computer in that outlet. It could just be for a blender or something.
 

pattenp

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Don't over think this... the GFCI is fine. Move on. :thumbup:

Oh my, now I'm back to being confused. I used the gfi because the outlet is near the bar area,assuming that there was a water leak at some point it would be a good idea. I don't necessarily have to put the computer in that outlet. It could just be for a blender or something.
 

CNGsaves

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That's NEW information that you now say there is WATER involved.

Notice that your bathroom has GFCI outlet so if you decide to get water on hair dryer while it's running, the GFCI outlet will easily trip. Same is true of electrical code for floor level outlets in garage (or garage door opener) should be GFCI as they are afraid you'll have water in garage at same time as using electrical.

Best advice is tell GJ exactly what all is going on with outlet, how it will be used, how close to water, etc.

My advice of using UPS for your computer works regardless of outlet type.
 
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brit

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Thanks guys for all the great advice. I'm out for now if I ever need help I know where to get it. Thanks so much....later
 

bczygan

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Thanks guys for all the great advice. I'm out for now if I ever need help I know where to get it. Thanks so much....later

That's the cool thing about this group. A bunch of people willing to help and give the best advice they can.

One day YOU will be the one doing that! Maybe sooner than you think.
 

pattenp

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Beside bathrooms and garages, the NEC requires GFCI outlets where serving counter tops in a kitchen and in other areas where outlets are installed within 6 feet of a sinks outside edge.
 
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brit

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That's NEW information that you now say there is WATER involved.

Notice that your bathroom has GFCI outlet so if you decide to get water on hair dryer while it's running, the GFCI outlet will easily trip. Same is true of electrical code for floor level outlets in garage (or garage door opener) should be GFCI as they are afraid you'll have water in garage at same time as using electrical.

Best advice is tell GJ exactly what all is going on with outlet, how it will be used, how close to water, etc.

My advice of using UPS for your computer works regardless of outlet type.

Not really water involved, just near the bar so I figured it I ever have a broke pipe it would be better to have than not. Thanks for your advice. :thumbup:
 
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