Low budget 30x48 build

[PWC Repair]

Low budget 30x48 steel webbed truss build

Steel Webbed Truss and wood frame
UPDATE: Finally got going starting page 2.

Ok nothings actually being built yet but the dirt work is supposed to start next week. First pic is the current plan
Second pic is what I currently work out of and have outgrown years ago. It's a 12x18 that I built myself after an ice storm, weighing heavy on large limbs, crushed my Sears metal shed.

Other pics show its packed with stuff, and so many different projects all at once, it's very messy. That's a performance 700R4 build going on up on the bench, and a Rotax 657 next to it. Theres also a Polaris 700 and a Rotax 717 apart on the floor. Not to mention a CBR600 engine that I already put back together and need out of the way.

 

[PWC Repair]

And here is the marked out area where the new shop will go.
I will post more pics as I progress. I will be doing as much of the work as I can to keep the cost down.

 

[cammok5]

what is your deadline on the build if you have one?

 

[PWC Repair]

No deadline but I'd like for it to be done by early summer. Just have to see what the cost will be on the stuff I can't do myself.

 

[PWC Repair]

Still no progress to report but I've done a lot of figuring and I guess I'll plan on stick building. Looks like the cost of materials difference for framing the walls is about $670 higher for pole style VS common 2x4 on 2ft centers. I can put that money into wiring and insulation. And overall looks like about $7500 total cost of materials to put in in the dry.

 

[kb2tha]

Looks like a good plan you have there. My garage has three 9 x 8 OH doors and I wouldn't want any lesser size. Pictures in my album. What is the need for a 42" man door with the open plan. Would you save some coin with a standard 3' door?

let's see pictures as this build progresses.

 

[cyamaha2007]

If you want look at diypolebarns.com They have really good pricing. You can even build it on their web site and it will spit out the actual price.

 

[PWC Repair]

Looks like a good plan you have there. My garage has three 9 x 8 OH doors and I wouldn't want any lesser size. Pictures in my album. What is the need for a 42" man door with the open plan. Would you save some coin with a standard 3' door?

let's see pictures as this build progresses.

Only reason for the 42"door is I already have it. A friend was tearing down an old house on some land he bought and they had switched out the doors to be handicapped accessible. I have 1 on my house and another. I gave him $20 each!
I will post pics as I progress through the build.

 

[PWC Repair]

If you want look at diypolebarns.com They have really good pricing. You can even build it on their web site and it will spit out the actual price.

I will check it out, thanks. Most of what I've found so far is really no bargain if you actually figure all the materials. We've got a metal manufacturer close and the painted 25 year stuff is about .75 sq ft. I can also get a nicer insulated door for $600 each instead of that crappy slider version.

 

[PWC Repair]

Guy came out and dropped off his backhoe today. In 1.5 hours he pushed over the 3 trees AND moved them to the back of my field. And dug out the backside where the retaining wall will go. YAY!

 

[PWC Repair]

WOW! That is one big hole! Now what can I do with all that clay? I guess sell it and recoop a bit of cash.
Looks like I'll have a little more retaining wall than was originally planned. The hillside runs diagonally and is deeper on the side closer to the yard.

 

[PWC Repair]

Made a wee bit more progress this weekend. we had some snow then rain and everything was a mess. I've got it squared off and staked now.

 

[sfd524]

Looks like a good start. This is going to be one heck of an upgrade from that shed you are in now. Good luck and can't wait to see more of it!

 

[D.J.]

Please don't try and talk him out of the stick built version just try and sway him to 2X6 walls so he can stuff more insulation into them! Also save the clay untill you are finished and all done landscaping, then if you must sell it it will be ok. I have talked to plenty of guys who sold their fill only later to end up having to pay for some to finish their build. Just my $ .02, keep us informed one of these days I plan on an attached 32 X 48 to my house.

 

[PWC Repair]

Good call on the fill. I will wait until I backfill and finish to get rid of all of it. After talking to a local builder that goes WAYY back, I'm now considering a pole style with poles set exactly 8ft apart instead of o.c. and using 2x6 in between to form a bookshelf or "commercial girt" wall. I won't have any more cost in materials and will be easier to set up and he says stronger. Then you can still finish the inside and outside without wall girts. Anybody have thoughts on that?

 

[cobraace]

**** you could be my twin low budget /works on 2strokes and transmission,s that's me

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Still no progress to report but I've done a lot of figuring and I guess I'll plan on stick building. Looks like the cost of materials difference for framing the walls is about $670 higher for pole style VS common 2x4 on 2ft centers. I can put that money into wiring and insulation. And overall looks like about $7500 total cost of materials to put in in the dry.

Stick is the way to go on a building this size. Pole really shines on larger sizes. ESPECIALLY if you plan on finishing the interior...you start factoring in bookshelf girts and all the other stuff the price starts going up fast. Its not so much the price now...its the price later. The entire world is designed around 16" OC framing (24" too)...so if you find you want to install a recessed medicine cabinet, no problem...

I'd also suggest going 16" OC if you want to insulate... For example, R13 Insulation for 16"OC is .29 Cents a Sq/ft....the same R13 in 24" OC is .41 cents a sq/ft
The couple extra studs will be more then paid for with the savings in insulation. (prices are from my local HD)...I know I was shocked when I had to buy a single roll of R19 24" OC insulation...Luckily I only needed a single roll...

As said above...2x6 studs will be a small price to pay now... I see your down in AK, but up here 2x6 exterior walls are what "everybody has" so I can run down to HD/Lowes/Building supply and come home with a clearance entry door in 5 mins for a 2x6 wall....2x4 Exterior wall would mean a special order pre-hung door. Special order translates to Higher Prices...

 

[justintiime]

do you have a thirdgen formula to stick in the garage?

 

[greywolves2]

Now that's MY type of garage!
I grew up with this type of facility, and STILL have one - BUT - am looking to change !!!!

Lookin good my man!

 

[PWC Repair]

Stick is the way to go on a building this size. Pole really shines on larger sizes. ESPECIALLY if you plan on finishing the interior...you start factoring in bookshelf girts and all the other stuff the price starts going up fast. Its not so much the price now...its the price later. The entire world is designed around 16" OC framing (24" too)...so if you find you want to install a recessed medicine cabinet, no problem...

I'd also suggest going 16" OC if you want to insulate... For example, R13 Insulation for 16"OC is .29 Cents a Sq/ft....the same R13 in 24" OC is .41 cents a sq/ft
The couple extra studs will be more then paid for with the savings in insulation. (prices are from my local HD)...I know I was shocked when I had to buy a single roll of R19 24" OC insulation...Luckily I only needed a single roll...

As said above...2x6 studs will be a small price to pay now... I see your down in AR, but up here 2x6 exterior walls are what "everybody has" so I can run down to HD/Lowes/Building supply and come home with a clearance entry door in 5 mins for a 2x6 wall....2x4 Exterior wall would mean a special order pre-hung door. Special order translates to Higher Prices...

Actually common here is 2x4 and 16 or 24" o.c. So I can go either way for about the same money.

do you have a thirdgen formula to stick in the garage?

Not "Formula" but I have a 1982 Mecham Racing Motor Sports Edition Trans AM with the motor out right now 70,000 original miles, 1 of 9 that are red.

And the first project in the new shop will be my 1983 25th anniversary Daytona 500 Trans Am hardtop 1 of 116 built that we will restore for my son. first 2 pics in hardtop section bottom of page here...http://www.transamaction.de/pace-cars-english.html

Looks like a good start. This is going to be one heck of an upgrade from that shed you are in now. Good luck and can't wait to see more of it!

No doubt, the word of mouth has spread about my wrenching and I have outgrown the little project shed.

**** you could be my twin low budget /works on 2strokes and transmission,s that's me

Hey bro! I find it's a good way to make extra ca$h and nobody around here wants to do watercraft or performance trans builds. I feel like I'm pretty close to going full time on my own.

 

[justintiime]

Cool! I have an 89 formula 350.

I always liked those MSE cars too. My buddy had a DT500 car that he couldn't even give away so he scrapped it. He kept most of the car-specific stuff like the badges, the intake (CFI) and air intake, hood and wheels, maybe some other pieces too.

If you're not on www.thirdgen.org you need to be. TONS of information on that site. my name is Justin89formy

 

[PWC Repair]

Yep, I'm on there. Nice Formy too! Your buddy should have kept the DT500 I've been watching them over the past 10 years and they keep climbing in price. To put it into perspective there were around 1935 Plymouth Superbirds made...NOBODY WANTED THEM. Some of them even got converted back into regular Roadrunners just so they could sell them. 135 of those are hemi powered. Those numbers are close to the DT500 production and hardtop numbers. It's a supply and demand thing with low number cars. Obviously a thirdgen is no Superbird but I'm betting years down the road your buddy will be kicking himself just like all these old timers that had Olds 442s and Camaro rs/ss and big block Corvettes that they got rid of.

 

[cyamaha2007]

I vote pole barn with the commercial girts. Are you going to insulate at the time of build?

 

[PWC Repair]

Probably just the ceiling, then walls as I finish the inside.

 

[jvitez]

If you do stick built do 16" OC. 2x4's 24" OC start to get a bit flimsy. 2x6's 24" OC are OK with diagonal bracing or OSB siding.

 

[PWC Repair]

Finally made a little more progress. Every time the ground would almost dry up it would rain again. I got a 2 day window with dry ground and called a friend. Had to borrow a trailer and go pick up a mini excavator, what a handy little rig! Got my footer dug out and it cost me $6.50 for fuel and $22 for a jug of hydraulic oil because it leaks. Now I can buy some rebar to get one step closer to pouring concrete.

 

[Boyd]

Any update?

 

[PWC Repair]

Nope, with my regular 40hr a week job and the extra wrenching on jet skis I've been doing 70-80 hrs a week all summer. I still have 4 skis, a mule, and 3 four wheelers to fix but I'm still hoping to do concrete before it gets too cold.

 

[Kevin54]

Nope, with my regular 40hr a week job and the extra wrenching on jet skis I've been doing 70-80 hrs a week all summer. I still have 4 skis, a mule, and 3 four wheelers to fix but I'm still hoping to do concrete before it gets too cold.

Oh C'Mon. We're getting into Fall. As a matter of fact, today is the first full day of Fall.

What's the plans man? Are we going to see wood going up before the snow flies?

BTW....It looks like it's going to be a great build.

A little edit here......Seeing that you haven't pulled the trigger yet, rethink your doors. I have 9'x7' doors. With your 8' height, you'll be fine for pulling in a lifted truck. If I were you, and only learning this from my personal experience, go with a 10' wide door.

The reason I say this is that I had a trailer full of lumber. I had it on my extra wide car trailer. By the time I got home, I was too tired to unload it. I literally had 2" on each side to pull the trailer into the garage. I finally had to hook my JD tractor up to the trailer to more easily maneuver it into the garage. A 10' wide door would have been a piece of cake. 9' wide is a ***** in a pinch. Just a suggestion, but it's way easier to plan ahead instead of redoing later on.

 

[PWC Repair]

Finally another tiny update. I think this will be the longest shop build ever. I stayed way too busy into the winter to do anything, and the budget simply doesn't allow for hiring it out. I have bought 2000ft of rebar and now I have to wait for the snow to melt (this weekend I hope) so I can get in there and get ready to pour a footer.

 

[PWC Repair]

WOW! What a long and nasty winter. If there is ever a contest for longest shop build I hope you guys remember me and vote me into first place.

Bought a load of 130 old 2x6" from a remodel. They are 10-12ft long and from the 50's. They are not rough cut but they do measure actual 2x6. Also got some shorter boards and some 1x12 lumber all for $200. Right there is a savings of roughly $600

And I took a vacation day today (after the ground finally dried up) to get some 2x6 footer forms set up.

And then I had to wait for less daylight cause I couldn't see the laser on the transit I borrowed. I've still got to do some raising and lowering of forms here and there then it will be ready for re-bar and concrete. It's a 2ft wide and 12" deep (minimum) footer. Within 1/4" square everywhere and the retaining wall will be set right in the middle of it.

 

[PWC Repair]

After a long search I finally found the guy I've been looking for to do concrete. Dude works for the city, has kids, needs spare cash, trying to make a living and not a killing, knows his stuff! Here is the footing after they finished up yesterday. It's 24" wide, averaged around 18" deep, and has 4 rows of rebar in it. Came to 16.25 yards......ouch!





He actually poured the concrete today and stabbed in the rebar for the retaining wall but it was too dark for pics.

More pics tomorrow.

 

[PWC Repair]

Footer with rebar for wall every 8". Horizontals will be 8" also.

 

[PWC Repair]

Pulled about 1/2 the 2x6 forms off this evening. My concrete guy is trying to borrow enough forms to pour the whole retaining wall so we don't have to rent any.

 

[PWC Repair]

New plan, going to start building forms with plywood tomorrow.

 

[Boyd]

Keeping an eye on this one. Good luck.

 

[MagKarl]

Have you checked if there are any concrete supply rental shops near you? We have a spot here that sells supplies like rebar but rents stuff like plywood panes for forms. Might save you some cash.

 

[Jordanp252]

Following. Check out my thread. It has been done by myself and friends. Best way to learn a lot and to appreciate it.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=258438

 

[PWC Repair]

Forms built and set up, ready to pour tomorrow!





And on the inside...

 

[PWC Repair]

Came out nice and straight. Everything stripped down and ready to go back up for the sides.