low celing- need a lift

[36couper]

My 20 X 50 garage has a fairly low, dry-walled ceiling. I think the floor to ceiling height is about 9'
I want to install a 4 post lift which needs another 2-3 feet.
If you can picture the garage in quadrants, I'd like to install the lift in the right, rear quadrant.
It's a two story garage with the upstairs used for storage.

What I'd like to do is cut the ceiling drywall out a little larger than the lift dimensions. Once the drywall is removed, I have to deal with the joists.

There is a steel beam running length-wise through the garage. It's visible from the ground floor.

I know this is a tough question without you seeing the garage but what issues would I face cutting the joists but still reinforcing the area where the lift would go up?
Ideally, I would rebuild the higher ceiling with drywall and lights. Just like it is now.
Any suggestions are appreciated. Clearly I need an engineer to look at this but figured I'd go to you first to see if anyone else has dealt with something like this.
Attached is a poor picture but it might give you an idea how low the ceiling is.
Thanks

 

[Badhabit]

Can you just put a higher ceiling/floor from the steel beam to the outside wall and build it the length of the hoist?

H

 

[Jazzman442]

Can you extend the garage just enough for a lift? I think that would be cheaper.

 

[rice rocket]

Ratrod out your car.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Boxing in a hole large enough for the lift and car will affect the second floor, and there isn't any way you're going to avoid that if you keep it in the same footprint. Maybe you can afford the loss of the space on the second floor.

Extending the garage in the rear with a higher roof that either is the same as the second floor or even half way up will give you the clearance you need if you have the property to do so.

If you don't need to be under the lift walking around, then a MaxJax may be the solution for your limited height ceiling.

 

[36couper]

I can easily afford losing space on the second floor since 3/4 of it would still be there.
Extending the garage isn't an option. I'm at the max with city by-laws and financially, I just couldn't do it.
Badhabit, that's what I'm thinking, just raise the ceiling up another couple of feet. I want to make sure I don't do anything to impact the integrity of the structure itself.
If anyone is in the Toronto area and wants to take a look, let me know.
thanks again

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Lift the ceiling into the second floor by boxing it in. Might even put some doors in the new wall that separates the lift bay from the second floor.

TADA! Elevator. Might be handy for moving things. Just have to make a bridge ramp.

 

[CNGsaves]

Need more information. How is roof constructed ?? True trusses or some sort of rafters and other support??

MORE PICTURES would help . . . like outside roofline(s), inside attic, etc.

 

[Jvvmusme]

Maxjax

 

[36couper]

Here are a few more pictures. Not the best quality from my iPhone
My garage looks like a barn. The second floor has 1/2" thick plywood floor and is divided into two sections; separate by a door. The back half was an addition built about 4-5 years ago. Hope this helps.

 

[Rod N]

How cool would it be if you could just cut the floor out so the car was in the attic a bit.

You could put up a railing and have a nice sit down area up there that looks into the garage.

 

[36couper]

I like that idea about cutting the floor out. You are describing exactly what I am aiming for; the car in the attic/second floor a bit.
The only problem is it gets damn cold up there in the winter. My garage has a heater but I try not to run it all day everyday. It would make my gas bill explode if it was to heat the upstairs too.

How cool would it be if you could just cut the floor out so the car was in the attic a bit.

You could put up a railing and have a nice sit down area up there that looks into the garage.

 

[carsandcapp]

Maxjax

If you don't need the lift for storage then MaxJax by Danmar is the solution. Buy it at Costco and return it easily if you hate it. You will be working from a rolling seat most of the time, unless you are 4' 4".

 

[Nowater]

Hire an engineer to look at the situation and find out for sure. The engineer may be able to help with permits.

 

[rburke65]

I would have to hire someone with more knowledge than I to take on that job. Good luck.

 

[Kraton]

To my untrained eye it looks like the rooftrusses depend on the floorjoists to keep from spreading outwards. I strongely suggest having a structural engineer looking at the concept of cutting a couple of floorjoists. You might otherwise end up with wider (and lower) roof than you anticipate.

 

[65cayne]

To my untrained eye it looks like the rooftrusses depend on the floorjoists to keep from spreading outwards. I strongely suggest having a structural engineer looking at the concept of cutting a couple of floorjoists. You might otherwise end up with wider (and lower) roof than you anticipate.[/QUOT]

Exactly what I was thinking. This---^

 

[36couper]

All good advice.
I'm going to look at two options; consider a Maxjax (but I could use extra storage space) and talk to an engineer. I definitely do not want a lower roof than expected.
Now I'm going to search reviews on a Maxjax

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I've got about the same height as you and I've got an SO (wheeltronics) midrise and an old Autolifters lift... Between the two, I can pretty much do everything I need to do....

 

[36couper]

I'm not familiar with the wheeltronics and an Autolifter lift. Time to do a few google searches.

 

[jonjon1]

I would start by taking up the floor boards up stairs over where you want the lift.

Then take a look at the floor joists, take some pictures we can come up with a plan to remove them, most likely some basic over built headers, and box off the floor, that will give you your hole, now just frame that up and throw up some boards, insulate the second floor side and you wont loose much energy at all. I have a couple carpenters that could do that entire project in a day.

 

[bczygan]

You can do what you want.

You will lose the use of that portion of the upstairs.

We need to know the floor structure. Which way the joists run and their size and spacing.

Do they bear on that steel beam?

What is boxed into that area running from side to side that has the bumper sticker on it?

A wall built around the area where the floor is removed, and insulated, will box in the area and make it a part of the lower level for heating. It will also help with support for the roof rafters. A properly designed Gambrel roof doesn't add any outward thrust to the side walls. This one can be reinforced in this area with additional gussets, to aid that.

The additional loads on the steel beam will probably be more than offset by the reduced load from removing the floor in that area. You will need to double a ceiling joist as a header where the new wall goes from the beam to the outside wall.

You need to also check that there is adequate clearance for your tallest and biggest vehicle with that sloping Gambrel roof.


Do you understand what I am saying?

Bill

 

[TAMPAGT07]

I'm not familiar with the wheeltronics and an Autolifter lift. Time to do a few google searches.

Good luck with the autolifter, as they were built over 50 years ago and there isn't much info on them...

 

[RXtacy]

If you don't need the lift for storage then MaxJax by Danmar is the solution. Buy it at Costco and return it easily if you hate it. You will be working from a rolling seat most of the time, unless you are 4' 4".

I'm not seeing MaxJax on Costco's website. Is it a local deal?

 

[carsandcapp]

I'm not seeing MaxJax on Costco's website. Is it a local deal?

http://www.costco.com/Dannmar-MaxJa...ord=auto+lift&langId=-1&storeId=10301&refine=

 

[Kamn]

Another idea could be to add some more height on the foundation and lift the structure up a block or two??
Just a thought

 

[36couper]

Yep, I understand where you are going.
The area that is boxed is where the old garage ended and the new addition started . I'm not sure what's in there. It could be a support beam running side to side.
To determine whether the joists rest on the steel beam, I will have to pull up one floor board. the joists run east to west.

jonjon........send your carpenters over. I pay cash.

You can do what you want.

You will lose the use of that portion of the upstairs.

We need to know the floor structure. Which way the joists run and their size and spacing.

Do they bear on that steel beam?

What is boxed into that area running from side to side that has the bumper sticker on it?

A wall built around the area where the floor is removed, and insulated, will box in the area and make it a part of the lower level for heating. It will also help with support for the roof rafters. A properly designed Gambrel roof doesn't add any outward thrust to the side walls. This one can be reinforced in this area with additional gussets, to aid that.

The additional loads on the steel beam will probably be more than offset by the reduced load from removing the floor in that area. You will need to double a ceiling joist as a header where the new wall goes from the beam to the outside wall.

You need to also check that there is adequate clearance for your tallest and biggest vehicle with that sloping Gambrel roof.


Do you understand what I am saying?

Bill

 

[jonjon1]

Yep, I understand where you are going.
The area that is boxed is where the old garage ended and the new addition started . I'm not sure what's in there. It could be a support beam running side to side.
To determine whether the joists rest on the steel beam, I will have to pull up one floor board. the joists run east to west.

jonjon........send your carpenters over. I pay cash.

Whats the address?, lol...

First step- do some measurements mark exactly where you want to be
second step- pull a floor board, see what is where
third step- brace everything that needs to be supported
fourth step-cut the floor out
fifth step- frame the area
sixth step- seal in the framing and insulate

done...

 

[adamjabaay]

Have you thought about a short 2 post? If its just to work on cars at a better height, there are lifts that will fit in your current ceiling height....