Low headroom door opener?

[cw_racefan]

Anyone have any suggestions for low headroom garage door openers? Even with the low headroom kit, I have about 2 1/4 inches of clearance between the highest point (which is now in the middle of the door, not the top) and the ceiling. The doors are extension spring doors, so I can't use a jackshaft opener. Genie claims their "chain glide" opener will work, but having trouble finding one. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!
Craig

 

[nova65ss]

The new Genie beltdrives have a pretty thin rail I can check into it for you and see if it will clear. If you can find a Marantec dealer in your area it has a very thin rail and should work, they are sometimes epensive though.

Can you lower the backdrops at all and gain an inch or so? We sometimes do it just to get what we need, it will not hurt anything for it to go back at a down angle.

What is the obstruction sheet rock, joists? You could cut a channel in the sheetrock or joists if you need an extra inch.

 

[Door Doctor]

A Genie Stealth belt drive has a rail that is only 1 3/4 thick. This is probably the best solution for your application. Please don't use Marantec, we used to sell them but have had so many problems with them that we gave up on them. Also good luck getting a Marantec service tech on the phone when trying to troubleshoot a problem.

 

[nova65ss]

Genie/ Marantec neither would be my 1st choice but given the circumstances you take what you can get. They all have there problems in customer service too.

 

[Door Doctor]

Genie/ Marantec neither would be my 1st choice but given the circumstances you take what you can get. They all have there problems in customer service too.

I agree niether would be my first choice either but I would choose a Genie over a Marantec any day of the week.

cw_racefan The Genie Stealth beltdrive is a far better opener than the Chain glide. Give Genie a call, they should be able to tell you where you can get one. Here's the Genie customer support # (800) 843-4084

 

[nova65ss]

Just goes to show not everyone thinks alike. We used Marantec for a while as well and really have nothing bad to say about them, probably the quiet opener I have heard even the chain drive. Genie on the other hand, well I wouldn't sell one of those to my worst enemy. Can't stand a Genie!

 

[cw_racefan]

Thanks for the suggestions! The obstruction is my ceiling and the roof trusses, so there really isn't a way to "channel" something in. I could recess the motor into the ceiling in between trusses though. As for dropping the back, I actually have 3-4 inches at the back, the issue is one of the middle hinges on the door. I don't remember which one it is, but the hinges have different offsets, and one of them ends up pushing the edge of one door section to within 2 1/4" when you open it.

On the Genie stealth, can a DIY'r purchase them without an install? Also, I have 8' doors, I assume there's an extension kit available for that unit? Any one know anything about Liftmaster? Do they have anything that would work? Their website doesn't give specifics on clearance required.

Craig

 

[nova65ss]

You can buy extension kits for the Genie's and most if not all Home Depot and Lowes have Genie.

A L/M rail is about 1 1/2" thick we usually like to have 3" but it might work with what you have.

If the trusses fall somewhat near the middle offsetting it could work but it is sometimes difficult with extension springs. They work independently from each other so adjusting one a little tighter than the other would help offset the door if it comes down a little crooked.

 

[cw_racefan]

On the HD/Lowes thing, the only ones they carry around here are screw drive and the basic chain drive. The Stealth being a "Pro" model, I wasn't sure if I could purchase one outright or not.

Oh, and my doors are on the gable end, so trusses are perpendicular to the door tracks, ie I can't offset.

Thanks again!

 

[jmauld]

CW, I'm in the same boat as you. Are there any options for the door openers that attach directly to the spring rod? (don't know the correct term for that)

 

[cw_racefan]

If you have a torsion spring door, I think there are a couple of options. Both expensive as I remember. My doors are extension springs, so I can't use either of those options. I'm guessing Nova65 or Door Doc can give you some advise there.

 

[Door Doctor]

CW, I'm in the same boat as you. Are there any options for the door openers that attach directly to the spring rod? (don't know the correct term for that)

The Liftmaster 3800 Jackshaft opener is an excellent choice for doors with a torsion tube/spring assy and standard track.

Link http://www.liftmaster.com/cw/product_family/0,1064,uid-i3BoamhnZHFtaw==_387-id-42,00.html

The only problem you might encounter is that they cannot be used on low head room track. However it depends on the type of low head room track
O" low head room track=Absolutlly not.
3 1/2" low head room track=very iffy, I wouldn't even try it.
7" low head room track=you might be able to get it to work, I haven't tried to install with this type of track yet but I think it would work.

Hope this helps

 

[cw_racefan]

Ok, so I talked to the local Overhead Door sales guy, and he said he could do the Genie Stealth, but actually recommended for a DIY option that I look into the Chamberlain Whisperdrive at HD. He said it would work as long as I have 2 inches. Any experience with them or any that can confirm they will work?

Thanks!
Craig

 

[nova65ss]

Ok, so I talked to the local Overhead Door sales guy, and he said he could do the Genie Stealth, but actually recommended for a DIY option that I look into the Chamberlain Whisperdrive at HD. He said it would work as long as I have 2 inches. Any experience with them or any that can confirm they will work?

Thanks!
Craig

Should work CW the rail is less or right at 2" so there should not be a problem. It' a great opener also. You will need an extension kit with it also don't forget.

 

[Door Doctor]

Ok, so I talked to the local Overhead Door sales guy, and he said he could do the Genie Stealth, but actually recommended for a DIY option that I look into the Chamberlain Whisperdrive at HD. He said it would work as long as I have 2 inches. Any experience with them or any that can confirm they will work?

Thanks!
Craig

Yes It will probably work but the store bought openers are for 7' high doors, If you don't need to have your door open all the way then go for it. If you want the door to open all the way you will have to buy the extension kit.

Not many door companys will sell a pro rail opener to the public but some do so call as many as you can, pro 8' rails are much better than a store bought bolt together rail with the extension kit.

Liftmaster 3280 belt drive (Same thing as a whisper drive but with a pro "T" rail).

 

[cw_racefan]

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

[paul29]

Had same problem on my previous home , had an I beam which restricted the use of a center mount . I had room to the right of my door so I mounted the t rail to the front wall and hung the unit to the right of the door , outside the rail same as a center mount . I welded up a bracket and mounted this to the top panel face on the right side and made an extension over to the drop down from the Craftsman opener . The door was 16 ft insulated . I installed this in 1983 and it was still working perfectly when I sold the house in 2005 . Pulling the torsion spring door from either side does not matter if it is balanced properly , because if you don't have an opener you are opening or closing from one side with a rope anyway . At that time the end mount openers were only comercial grade and very expensive.

 

[kbs2244]

Paul29:
A good friend of mine had the same I-beam problem you discribe. I-beam across the garage, left wall to right wall. The door stopped about 6 inchs short of the I-beam when open. No room for the motor between the beam and open door.
I always loved the way the guy who installed the opener solved the problem.
He used an extention kit for the chain rail, and flame cut a hole in the web of the I-beam. Ran the rail thriugh the hole and had all kinds of room on the back side of the beam. It was a deep beam, over 12 inchs, so he didn't weaken it any.
It sure did look unique though.
The bedrooms were above the garage. My buddy lived ther for 30 years and said he never had any problems with sagging floors, sticky doors, etc. so the guy must have had some idea of what he was doing.

 

[paul29]

kbs2244 : I guess there are a lot of houses with that design . The I beam carries the ends of the roof trusses which end over the garage area . The garage face was about a five foot offset to the front of the house at the end , a typical three bedroom bungalow . The garage door ended up about one and a half feet beyond the beam when up. The beam was 10 or 12 inches in the web .

 

[boomerboy48]

Here is how I took care of the low headroom door openers

 

[cw_racefan]

I went ahead and got 2 of the Chamberlain Whisperdrives and extension kits (I have 8 ft doors) and am having a little bit of trouble. They should clear fine, but the rail sags and causes it to rub on the door. Do the pro models with the one piece rail sag too? There's no way to support it in the middle since the trolley has to pass over the rail. Looks like my only option is to cut a hole in the ceiling and try to raise the header bracket some. I was suprised at how much the rails sag on these.

Thanks!
Craig

 

[nova65ss]

The pro rails will not sag hardly at all. Sometimes over several years of lifting heavy doors they will get a smiley face to them but nothing major. If you have a hard time finding them we take down old openers on the regular I can get you some for the cost of shipping. Or new ones for that matter but we can only buy them complete with the belt and trolley.

 

[cw_racefan]

Are the one piece pro rails compatible with the DIY version of the motor/etc? ie attachment points, etc. I appreciate the offer! I have a couple ideas I will try first, I think I can get the motor up another 3/4 inch, and also try getting the header up a little more. I have a corrugated ceiling, and I think I might be able to shift a piece around and get the header up in one of the valleys. The door just barely rubs in 2 spots (bottom of the top 2 panels due to the hinge offset), but its enough to leave marks and scratch the rail.

Thanks again!
Craig