Low Profile Ratchet Recommendations in 1/2

[four.cycle]

@Chrome Vanadium Cody -
RE: position of detent ball on drive anvil:

Excellent point, but I have to wonder:

Is this not more a function of the design of the socket? (the position of the detent in the drive end of the socket will determine how far the socket is going to slide onto the drive anvil, correct?)

Then there's the question of:
Does the drive end of the socket seat all the way down - "flush" with the drive side surface of the ratchet?
or
Is there some sort of "shoulder" at the bottom end of the drive anvil that puts a bit of distance between the drive surface of the ratchet and the drive end of the socket, as is seen on some newly-introduced drive adapters. (see below)

(Second question is purely speculative because I simply do not know how all these newer designs are built.)

This will be an interesting rabbit hole for somebody brave enough to dive into it.

 

[M635_Guy]

@M635_Guy -
RE: dimensions of ratchet head overall height:

I would think that including the overall height (including any additional height caused by the design of the selector switch) would be the one you'd want to go by - you're not going to get the head of the ratchet into a hole without the selector knob/lever.

You're definitely on the point that was most-interesting to me. What you don't see from that screenshot of the spreadsheet is the area where I'm going to have 8mm, 10mm, 14mm, and 17mm sockets of the same brand measured and then measured as-mounted on the ratchets. Then I'm going to mix up brands and see if that improves anything (e.g. does the Ko-ken Z-series socket create a shallower total profile on a SK LP90 than it does on the Ko-ken ratchet)

 

[four.cycle]

you've lost me.
I'm NOT a mechanic.
why 8 10 14 17 ?
no 13 or 18? (you don't work on Fords?)
(have you figured out yet that I avoid working on cars if at all possible?)


you might be making too much work for yourself.
IF I was going to go that route, I'd cut it in half: two sizes, one of which (obviously) should be 10mm - the one that always goes missing.
and
good grief! how many socket manufacturers are there this week?
just a wild guess, but I'm going to assume you'll narrow it down to "industry leaders", but who are they this week? Craftsman? Tekton? Dewalt? Performance Tool? Pittsburgh?

which really begs the question: why don't tool manufacturers supply us dimensions? certainly they must know what they are.

^ stream-of-consciousness, off-the-top-of-my-still-not-fully-awake-head-yet stuff, of course. apply LARGE grains of salt here.

 

[M635_Guy]

you've lost me.
I'm NOT a mechanic.
why 8 10 14 17 ?
no 13 or 18? (you don't work on Fords?)
(have you figured out yet that I avoid working on cars if at all possible?)


you might be making too much work for yourself.
IF I was going to go that route, I'd cut it in half: two sizes, one of which (obviously) should be 10mm - the one that always goes missing.
and
good grief! how many socket manufacturers are there this week?
just a wild guess, but I'm going to assume you'll narrow it down to "industry leaders", but who are they this week? Craftsman? Tekton? Dewalt? Performance Tool? Pittsburgh?

which really begs the question: why don't tool manufacturers supply us dimensions? certainly they must know what they are.

^ stream-of-consciousness, off-the-top-of-my-still-not-fully-awake-head-yet stuff, of course. apply LARGE grains of salt here.

LoL - In retrospect, I'm going to drop 8mm. I don't work on Ford at all (vintage BMW, Mini, Volvo, Honda and Mazda in the family fleet, plus my mom's Toyota), but mainly I'm just trying to show a range because the differences can change. For example, look at the pic of the Tekton vs. Icon 3/8" sets below (I've posted this pic a number of times here on GJ), the difference really starts getting dramatic around 14mm:


(I'm realizing I'm hijacking the original thread, so I'll end this line of discussion here out of respect for the OP and members)

 

[Belanice]

Astro #91210


Tone RH4FHL


Tone RH3FHX + RK-RH4CH

 

[Wamsutta]

My current 1/2 ratchet is to thick in the head to remove a fastener on the front of my engine.

Which fastener and which engine?

 

[four.cycle]

"...hijacking the original thread..."

For the purposes of accomplishing what you're hoping to accomplish, you're going to be posting all kinds of crazy stuff. Trust me on this one. Don' worry about. It's part of the learning curve.
(Sometimes I see stuff I've posted when I was trying to sort out some patent on something and just walk away shaking my head wondering "What was I thinking?")

Yes, the overall height of the sockets is going to be a determining factor, and I have noticed wild variances in socket height on the same size socket made by the same manufacturer. (Thorsen, Indestro, others.)
That Tekton is so widely popular, yet seems to make one of the tallest 1/4" drive sockets in the industry is truly a puzzler, is it not?

This computer is going down later today and I will be on a big desktop next time you see me so I will be absent for a bit.
I will get to photographing and measuring ratchets I have laying around here when I get the new machine up and running.
Again, most all of my junk is antiques, but we need a base line on this for the purposes of comparison.

I do have ONE ready, though... thinnest ratchet head in the galaxy ... just won't handle much over about 17 inch pounds:

 

[Notwerk]

I believe @Notwerk is referring to the Powerbuilt Pro Tech ratchets.
When the Pro Techs first came out they were sleeper ratchets. Few knew about them with little marketing, the original prices were incredibly reasonable, and the quality was top notch. Excellent line. I have several. The 1/4 drive 9” QR flex is sweet.

Ah, yes, thanks for the correction.

These are, indeed, made in Taiwan, despite Tone's "Japan" markings.

 

[Notwerk]

Really? Was that before Proto was acquired by SBD?

I find it interesting Proto would rebadge made in Japan rarchets seeing as they made their own ratchets. But maybe that explains why it was under Blackhawk. I haven't bothered to look for any NOS to see the similarities.

I find it hard to believe ToughBuilt and Carlyle would rebadge them.

If memory serves correct, I've read that not all Tone tools are made in Japan, some being made in China or Taiwan. But I don't know how much truth there is to that.

It was post-SBD. These days, Blackhawk is fairly dead. With Craftsman and DeWalt hand tools under the umbrella, it seems like SBD didn't see a place for Blackhawk. I misspoke when I mentioned Toughbuilt: they were rebadged by Powerbuilt.

More details: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/powerbuilt-pro-tech-ratchets.519762/

These are definitely made in Taiwan. Tone has been known to take some liberties with their COO.

 

[Pexto]

Are these the Blackhawk ratchets you mean? They look a little different than the Tone. https://www.ebay.com/itm/363382427977

 

[cosmokenney]

Gear Wrench is also my go to. Check out the Project Farm youtube channel. He does some really good comparisons of many things, but especially tools.

 

[Shoreline_]

Just curious - So after you crack free the fastener, if you have no room for a ratchet how will you back the bolt out if the threads fight you?

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Just curious - So after you crack free the fastener, if you have no room for a ratchet how will you back the bolt out if the threads fight you?

Ratchet wrench. Big boys get pricey, but they're nice to have. I think mine go up to 1-1/4".

 

[Shoreline_]

Ratchet wrench. Big boys get pricey, but they're nice to have. I think mine go up to 1-1/4".

I thought he said he can't fit a ratchet wrench in there? Some sort of recessed fastener.

 

[Pinemarten]

How about a ratchet wrench with a low profile socket like an Astro Pneumatic or similar?

 

[Grimm_the_Grey]

I couldn't find one from a manufacture that was between 30 mm and 38 mm. But Tekton 3/8 mini extension and snap on low profile 14 mm 3/8 (smallest one known to exist) would pit me at 34 mm about

Thank you for the recommendation. Can you measure the thickness of the head?

The Mac/proto super Short sockets are pretty much exactly the same depth as the snap on low profile when you're using them on a normal ratchet. Just letting you know all the available options in case you can find a better deal. Plus the Mac/proto super shorts actually utilize the detent on a normal ratchet so they stay on better, whereas the detents on the snap-on low-pros only work with their low-pro ratchet

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I have a Snap On SF730A which is a 1/2 drive in a 3/8 drive body ratchet. It sounds like you might be needing thinner from the head side. I'm a fan of Vim Tools and they have some adapters that turn ratcheting box end wrenches into a ratchet. Might be worth looking into, no experience or model numbers offhand to share.

 

[rust in the eye]

I thought he said he can't fit a ratchet wrench in there? Some sort of recessed fastener.

This is also my interpretation.
OP hasn't been back but the conversation continues on a tangent.

 

[Shoreline_]

This is also my interpretation.
OP hasn't been back but the conversation continues on a tangent.

We were the only two to figure that out. Maybe the OP found out the hard way, and he's cutting out the inner fender wall as we speak to get his stuck ratchet out lol.

 

[rust in the eye]

I've seen attempts to replace water pumps on cars that have fan clutches retaind by a large single nut, often LH thread. Whe removing the fan fails they resort to dismounting the water pump along with the fan, further complicating eventual fan removal. Sometimes the WP bolts are trapped.
OP hasn't told us his scenario but this or something similar isn't hard to imagine. Whatever the story it seems he's figured it out by now.

 

[bigredcornhead]

Lots of discussion about various tools, as we're prone to do here, but have you considered if there is room to back out this bolt?
If you can barely get the tools in place behind the obstruction you will trap them as soon as you begin loosening the bolt.
I'm envisioning a water pump bolt buried behind a pulley or a similar scenario. Why not remove the obstruction?
Having said all that a hex adapter on a short socket might be the ticket, at least you won't trap your fancy new ratchet in place.
Also, why 1/2" drive? A 14mm bolt head is ostensibly attached to an M8 bolt which barring big corossion ought to be loosened with smaller tools.

For me it was viscous fan nuts that required a very low slim profile ratchet, or using an open end wrench. Not even a ratcheting wrench would fit the nuts

 

[NHtoolguy]

My matco head thickeness is about 1/2-5/8. One of the thinnest out there and very strong. Or use a breaker bar to break it free then whatever you want to spin it out.

Another vote for the Matco 88 design. Both thin and strong.

 

[Hohn]

I'm looking for a low profile 1/2 drive ratchet. Can someone please recommend one and include the thickness of the head (not including the square anvil)? So far I've seen

Tekton SRH22214, .7 inch (17.78 mm) thick head

Capri Tools 12500C, .69 inch (17.526 mm) thick head

I see a lot of ratchets that claim to be low profile but very few that specify the thickness of the head (not the width). Meaning from the back of the ratchet head that is flat, to the other flat portion on the front of the ratchet that is on the same side as the square anvil. So I'm hoping people on hear can post the lowest Profile Ratchet that they have in 1/2, and include the thickness of the head (not including the thickness of the square anvil).

My current 1/2 ratchet is to thick in the head to remove a fastener on the front of my engine. Need 1/2. 3/8 sockets I have are not long enough. Need a 14 mm 6 point that is between 38 mm and 30 mm. My 30 mm in length 14 mm socket is 3/8 drive and can't get ratchet on it behind the pulley. My 38 mm long 14 mm socket is 1/2 drive and appears to be good length but my current ratchet is to thick at about 24 mm. My 1/2 braker bar is even thicker.

My current 1/2 is some no name brand Chinese made I got off Amazon.

Thanks!

A ratchet and socket IMO isn't the best option for that situation. You

What I use for those kinds of situations is an Astro Nano socket like this:

And then because these have a 17mm external hex on them, I can either stack the 17mm socket on top, use a stubby extension, use a deep offset box end, etc.

These little Astros (also sold by HD as Huskys) are superb little problem solvers.

 

[carmantl]

Armstrong Eliminator ratchet sets have saved the day for me several times. The half inch drive goes up to 1&1/4 and 30mm. Gearratchet also offered a 1/2" set years ago. Very useful tools. Can still be found on Ebay but they keep getting pricier.