Low voltage wiring questions

[Quickstep192]

I’ll try to keep the background brief. I built a very heavy clock that will be mounted 11’ high on the wall in my living room. On the other side of that wall is a bedroom.

To facilitate future battery changes, I plan to remote the battery by running an 18ga wire from the clock through the wall into the room on the other side of the wall to a battery holder with a D-Cell in it. That way it will be easy to access the battery when it needs to be changed.

Being ever cautious, I’m wondering if I should have any concerns with wall penetrations or a possible short. I suppose the connection could be easily fused.

It’s hard to imagine that a 1.5 volt battery could cause a fire, but I suppose stranger things have happened.

Any wisdom is appreciated.

 

[kngelv]

I don't think you will have anything to worry about. Just use a jacketed cable. BTW that's a good idea so you don't have to pull the clock down every time it needs a battery change.

James

 

[micromind]

There's not enough energy in a basic D cell battery to cause a fire or shock someone.

Just about any type of wire will work however, due to voltage drop, I'd run at least 18 gauge. Basic lamp cord will work as well as landscape lighting wire.

 

[justsam]

I would use class 2 wire, that is rated for in wall use. I suspect this is a short run so I would use 16 or 18ga speaker wire. Consider mounting a battery clip inside a j-box to hold the battery. The link is for a D-cell because that is what your OP mentioned, however if this is a typical clock mechanism most of them run on a single AA, so D-cell could be overkill. Use what would fit in a j-box, perhaps a C-Cell. Just cover th j-box with a blank plate and label as "clock battery" or something easy for the next person.

 

[Shiftless]

due to voltage drop, I'd run at least 18 gauge.

A remote battery is a great idea. And a D cell will last longer than the typical AA cell unless it leaks before it is run down. (Used Duracells lately?)

But as far as voltage drop is concerned, the current flow for a quartz clock movement is I’m sure less than 1/1000 of an amp. Somebody can do the calculation for a 1.5 volt dry cell feeding a circuit with one milliamp through various sized wires of 18 ga. or even smaller. Let’s set the length of wire at 8 feet to be generous. Can’t be much voltage drop can it?

 

[mm08822]

And all of this will look nice in the bedroom?

Run the wire within the wall to about receptacle height. Rough in a 1-2 gang oldwork box and chuck the batt in it. Add a blank cover.

Lamp cord is safe enough for this power source.

 

[dave*99]

I’ll try to keep the background brief. I built a very heavy clock that will be mounted 11’ high on the wall in my living room. On the other side of that wall is a bedroom.

To facilitate future battery changes, I plan to remote the battery by running an 18ga wire from the clock through the wall into the room on the other side of the wall to a battery holder with a D-Cell in it. That way it will be easy to access the battery when it needs to be changed.

Being ever cautious, I’m wondering if I should have any concerns with wall penetrations or a possible short. I suppose the connection could be easily fused.

It’s hard to imagine that a 1.5 volt battery could cause a fire, but I suppose stranger things have happened.

Any wisdom is appreciated.

Do you have a provision to adjust time while the clock hangs on the wall? Mine has a thumb wheel on the back. I can’t just move the hands.

 

[The Cobbler]

how about sharing a picture of your build?

 

[Quickstep192]

Do you have a provision to adjust time while the clock hangs on the wall? Mine has a thumb wheel on the back. I can’t just move the hands.

I can climb a ladder and swing the hands, or I can remove the battery for an hour in the spring or 11 hours in the fall.

 

[Shiftless]

Once that remote battery was installed, I know which option I would choose.

 

[kerrynzl]

I’ll try to keep the background brief. I built a very heavy clock that will be mounted 11’ high on the wall in my living room. On the other side of that wall is a bedroom.

To facilitate future battery changes, I plan to remote the battery by running an 18ga wire from the clock through the wall into the room on the other side of the wall to a battery holder with a D-Cell in it. That way it will be easy to access the battery when it needs to be changed.

Being ever cautious, I’m wondering if I should have any concerns with wall penetrations or a possible short. I suppose the connection could be easily fused.

It’s hard to imagine that a 1.5 volt battery could cause a fire, but I suppose stranger things have happened.

Any wisdom is appreciated.

Don't be too concerned about insulation etc with clocks [you can use speaker wire]
I measured a clock's Amp draw with a multimeter and it was almost impossible to get a reading
These things draw down to 1.35v in pulses which is why they normally last a long time [the amp draw was unreadable]

 

[Quickstep192]

Thanks for everybody’s help and ideas. .

Here’s a picture of the end result. I put a D-Cell holder in a 1 gang old work box in the room that’s on the other side of the wall. I didn’t think to take a picture of the box with the battery in it, but you get the idea.



Some more background is the the building used to be part of a factory that made torpedos and the theme is present throughout the building, like what’s seen in the lintels at the entrance.

 

[nadogail]

For Low Voltage work, i like RG-108 cable.

 

[dave*99]

RG108 cable is a 78 Ohm flexible twinaxial cable used for transmitting high-frequency signals in applications such as data processing and information systems up to 1 GHz. Its construction makes it suitable for applications requiring tight bends and flexibility, and it is often used in a variety of electronic and telecommunications setups, including certain BNC twinax assemblies

Probably can even carry 1.5 VDC too.

But I have to ask what you connect to RG108. Have not seen equipment using twinax for many years.

 

[N_Jay]

I would put a plastic box behind the clock and get a C or D size lithium battery.
The clock will run for 10 to 20 years.

 

[zimman]

I'd move that lamp 6" to the left before I throw myself off a bridge. LMAO.
Zim

 

[dave*99]

I'd move that lamp 6" to the left before I throw myself off a bridge. LMAO.
Zim

I’m guessing it’s the angle of the photo. If I’m wrong I’m going with you.

 

[Quickstep192]

I would put a plastic box behind the clock and get a C or D size lithium battery.
The clock will run for 10 to 20 years.

That was my plan, but the joke is on me! I put a box behind the clock with a D-Cell holder. But, there are no lithium D-Cells! It’ll still run a long time on an alkaline and at least it will be easy to change.

 

[Quickstep192]

I’m guessing it’s the angle of the photo. If I’m wrong I’m going with you.

LOL! It’s both and neither.

It’s partly the angle, but the light in the adjoining room is a little off center depending on your perspective. The side walls in that room has several jogs in so the center is a little ambiguous. The light is close to being centered over the table, but because of the jogs in the wall, the table is not centered in the room relative to the back wall.

I’ve thought about moving the light but I’m guessing there’s a reason it’s where it is, like a beam in the way or something like that.

Thanks for making me look at it every time I go in there now!!

 

[dave*99]

LOL! It’s both and neither.

It’s partly the angle, but the light in the adjoining room is a little off center depending on your perspective. The side walls in that room has several jogs in so the center is a little ambiguous. The light is close to being centered over the table, but because of the jogs in the wall, the table is not centered in the room relative to the back wall.

I’ve thought about moving the light but I’m guessing there’s a reason it’s where it is, like a beam in the way or something like that.

Thanks for making me look at it every time I go in there now!!

Sorry, some things you just can’t unsee.

 

[Copymutt]

some day in the distant future a garage journal member is going to buy your home and wonder????

 

[N_Jay]

That was my plan, but the joke is on me! I put a box behind the clock with a D-Cell holder. But, there are no lithium D-Cells! It’ll still run a long time on an alkaline and at least it will be easy to change.

What is the clock designed to run on? I am assuming an AA Alkaline.
While finding a REAL lithium D is hard, finding a lithium primary battery about that size is just a matter of looking where to look.
Unfortunately most are not LiFe (1.5V) and are other LI chemistries with 3.6V, so you will need to a small DC to DC buck converter.

 

[zimman]

LOL! It’s both and neither.

It’s partly the angle, but the light in the adjoining room is a little off center depending on your perspective. The side walls in that room has several jogs in so the center is a little ambiguous. The light is close to being centered over the table, but because of the jogs in the wall, the table is not centered in the room relative to the back wall.
'
I’ve thought about moving the light but I’m guessing there’s a reason it’s where it is, like a beam in the way or something like that.

Thanks for making me look at it every time I go in there now!!

You're a good sport and it's been fun. Nice clock, great idea and let us know how it turns out. The torpedo story is cool. I spent almost eight years on a Submarine Tender and have ducked torpedo's while eating lunch. I'm going out on a limb and say this is in the NE? Groton Area?
Zim

 

[kerrynzl]

I’ll try to keep the background brief. I built a very heavy clock that will be mounted 11’ high on the wall in my living room. On the other side of that wall is a bedroom.

To facilitate future battery changes, I plan to remote the battery by running an 18ga wire from the clock through the wall into the room on the other side of the wall to a battery holder with a D-Cell in it. That way it will be easy to access the battery when it needs to be changed.

Being ever cautious, I’m wondering if I should have any concerns with wall penetrations or a possible short. I suppose the connection could be easily fused.

It’s hard to imagine that a 1.5 volt battery could cause a fire, but I suppose stranger things have happened.

Any wisdom is appreciated.

How do you get on with daylight savings when the clock is 11' high

What is the clock designed to run on? I am assuming an AA Alkaline.
While finding a REAL lithium D is hard, finding a lithium primary battery about that size is just a matter of looking where to look.
Unfortunately most are not LiFe (1.5V) and are other LI chemistries with 3.6V, so you will need to a small DC to DC buck converter.

You can also do this with 2 diodes in-series.
Buck converters are cheap and easy if you have room to hide them.

my grandfather clock is 1.65v clock and 3.3v pendulum and eats batteries [the pendulum batteries last 5 months]
So I used 2 buck converters and converted my clock to 12v from a wall fitting

I used 12v Barrel plugs and an Architrave switch fitting. The 12v goes up the wall and connects in with my security cameras [these are powered by a 12v AC adapter on top of my garage door opener






My whole house has 12v DC in the ceiling [ Clock, 4 x security Cameras, 3 x Bluetooth mini Amplifiers ]

The Amps run a separate AC/Adaptor and heavier 2 core cable because they draw more current.
I have also dragged 3.5mm audio jack cable thoughout the ceiling [this allows me to run my garage amp from an old Samsung phone FM radio]

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

How do you get on with daylight savings when the clock is 11' hig

My question as well... I see little value to this project since OP will be up there twice a year anyway.

 

[kbuhagiar]

My question as well... I see little value to this project since OP will be up there twice a year anyway.

That depends...It's one thing to just move clock hands while standing on a ladder twice a year.
It's an entirely different matter if you have to unmount that clock (it appears rather large) in order to change batteries.
It could mean the difference between using an 8 foot ladder, or something larger and more unwieldy.

Not sure of the OP's age or health status, but speaking for myself, anything done off of a ladder these days has to be scrutinized carefully.
My comfort threshold is 8 feet. anything more than that (which requires the 12ft ladder) becomes a two-person operation, with (usually) my wife standing by to assist, or yell at me.

So I definitely see the added value with the remote battery.

 

[dscheidt]

There are movements that adjsut for DST without intervention, as well as ones that set themselves to WWVB. I think if i were going to the lengths of having a remote battery, I'd have used one of those.

 

[mm08822]

I thought the OP had it covered in post #9. (However, I think he has the actions reversed for spring/fall.)

 

[kbuhagiar]

There are movements that adjsut for DST without intervention, as well as ones that set themselves to WWVB. I think if i were going to the lengths of having a remote battery, I'd have used one of those.

Agreed - this would have been my first and best choice.

 

[Metal-Marc]

I can climb a ladder and swing the hands, or I can remove the battery for an hour in the spring or 11 hours in the fall.

Or install something like this and never adjust the clock.

https://www.amazon.com/misppro-Cont...Mechanism/dp/B0BWXG8VGX/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

I didn't see post #9, that would work.