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Low wattage winch

gfd_703

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Apr 22, 2010
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281
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west tennessee
I am working on a project and have an idea to run by everyone. I need a winch to lift a 150# weight 6 feet. I would like to power with a Milwaukee M18 battery. Winch will only run for at most 30 seconds. Any suggestions a a small winch and any idea if the battery will work in this application?
 
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Bogie1632

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Feb 18, 2018
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Southeastern Wisconsin
Are you talking about using a drill powered winch or are you making/rigging something up on an existing winch? If building your own, what type of motor are you using?

Lots of drill powered winches out there. The Warn is on my wish list for my trailer right now at under $180, 750# pull.

V/R
Bogie
 
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gfd_703

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Apr 22, 2010
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west tennessee
More background. This would be for lifting a roll of net wrap up to the storage position on a round baler. The roll of net weighs about 150# and the storage position is about 5 ft off the ground. It use to be just sling it up there but age has made it more difficult. Yes I was think Harbor Freight $69 winch but did not know if the Milwaukee m18 batteries could run one of those for short burst. Drill powered is great idea but the winch will have to be high enough to make those impractical. Lankota makes what I want just think over $1200 is a bit much and don't want to deal with running 12 volt to the tractor. https://www.lankota.com/net-wrap-assist-jd-baler.html
 
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66cj225

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Nov 4, 2011
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NH
I'd take a look at the various pickup truck bed corner post lifts- they vary from light duty to the service truck varieties. If you look at enough round balers, certainly someone has been here....
 

goodwrench

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Oct 21, 2006
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172
what about an old fashion rope block and tackle? a little creativity with some some rope and pulleys could make it easy to lift by hand.. might be easier than a winch.
 

FMB4

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Jan 19, 2017
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Again, as The Cobbler wisely states, winches are not made for lifting.
 

gnpenning

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I have more questions than answers.
I get the concern about a winch for lifting. In this application it doesn't hold a load overhead, but pulls the roll up and the roll is pushed in place as it reaches the mounts. Very simple.

A HF winch would work and as mentioned a block and tackle. You have a bunch of options to match what you may already have on hand or to fit your pocket book. I would strongly consider a block and tackle.

You can use a removable mount lower with a ****** block higher and use a drill motor type winch. Nothing says it all has to be high.
 
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gfd_703

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Apr 22, 2010
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Location
west tennessee
Thanks all. I may pick up one of those $20 deer skinning block and tackles as they already have the spreader bar that is also needed to hook in the handles of the roll of net wrap.
 

2oolhound

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Dec 18, 2010
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BC Canada
winches are not meant for lifting.

Again, as The Cobbler wisely states, winches are not made for lifting.

Correction: Some winches aren't made for lifting. These statements are generalizations and don't apply to all winches guys.

I've owned and operated winch trucks on pipelines plus my old power wagon that I built many log homes with for years. These vehicles were equipped with A frames and not only lifted 1000lb weights but they drove around with them and lowered them into place. Winches on steel spars lifted tons of weight and supported skylines on logging operations. These had two main winch drums, the haulback and the mainline. By holding the haulback and lowering the mainline the rigging would come down in the direction of the back spar or by holding the mainline and slacking the haulback the rigging would come down toward the head spar and so the operator could accurately place the rigging for the ground crew. However when bringing a load into the landing an interlock was engaged that locked the drums in unison so the haulback fed out while the mainline reeled in thereby keeping the load up in the air. Crane winches lift loads all day long. Before anyone claims those winches are called hoists you better google some of the top name winch manufacturers and see what they call their winches. Most winches have built in brakes and you have to power for up or down or you can disengage the drive cog and let them free wheel (only do this if there is no load on, used to quickly drag the line out).

That said the new breed of light duty winches like are being discussed here need a little more caution specially if they use a spur gear. Spur gears work one way only - winching in. To feed out or lower the load the spur gear has to be disengaged and it's possible the load could overcome the drive mechanism. The 1st thing I learned when I was rigging in the 70's was NEVER stand under a load, nor beside or behind it if you can avoid it. Stand at the end opposite the boom. If the operator hits a wrong lever by mistake and the load swings or a boom or winch line fails the safest place is not underneath or in it's path. Same for light duty stuff, dropping an engine in a pick-up, never put your hand or fingers under a load, guide with your finger tips at the sides or top where the load can come crashing down but where it will be moving away from your digits.

Industrial winches have fairleads that control the fleet angle of the line so it spools on the drum in a neat row. Fairleads on pick-up truck bumpers etc are too close to the drum to maintain a 5° fleet angle so the line does not spool neatly, it birdcages. When feeding out, slack line in the birdcage will spool out quickly and the load will jump a few inches so watch your fingers.
 
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