Lower Ball Joint Separator - what kind to get?

[Merkava_4]

2000 Buick LeSabre (H body I think )

What do y'all recommend for a lower ball joint separator? I gotta disconnect the lower ball joints for the purpose of pulling the drive shafts out.

 

[vssjim]

I either hit the spindle area with a two pound hammer to break loose the taper if it is iron spindle or one of the OTC tool kit separator, what ever you use just don't kit the ball joint boot. NO PICKLE FORKS.

 

[HolisticPerformance]

For separating the balljoint from the steering knuckle? Well if you don't care about tearing seals, doing damage, an appropriate sized pickle fork. Otherwise, just give it four or five hard hits with the sharp point of a hammer (to break the taper loose), then either pry it down, or go ahead and tap the threaded tapered bolt of the ball joint.

 

[nissan_crawler]

air hammer with a punch (again, assuming it's iron).

 

[Merkava_4]

I either hit the spindle area with a two pound hammer to break loose the taper if it is iron spindle or one of the OTC tool kit separator, what ever you use just don't kit the ball joint boot. NO PICKLE FORKS.

If I'm not mistaken, I think the spindle is solid aluminum.

I know for sure though that the lower control arm is solid aluminum; pretty high tech huh?

 

[ImportTuner]

I have a SPX/OTC ball joint separtor; works great and never damages the ball joint ..

 

[HolisticPerformance]

If I'm not mistaken, I think the spindle is solid aluminum.

I know for sure the lower control arm is solid aluminum - pretty high tech huh?

Its getting to be more and more common, even on some full size trucks!

Many Upper Control Arms (for vehicles that have them) have been aluminum for years, but, I see more and more al-u-min-um these days. 1 good slam into a curb in a parking lot - there goes the Caster.

 

[Merkava_4]

Alright, I just now got back from the garage. I turned the wheels to the far right so that I could reach the spindle with my telescopic magnet. The magnet is NOT sticking to the spindle!!

 

[Merkava_4]

I have a SPX/OTC ball joint separtor; works great and never damages the ball joint ..

Now we're talkin'!!

 

[HolisticPerformance]

Alright, I just now got back from the garage. I turned the wheels to the far right so that I could reach the spindle with my telescopic magnet. The magnet is NOT sticking to the spindle!!

Use a hammer, aluminum or not. You won't hurt it, and you won't believe how fast it is.

 

[MisterCMK]

Use a pickle fork and replace the ball joints while you are in there.

 

[Merkava_4]

Use a hammer, aluminum or not. You won't hurt it, and you won't believe how fast it is.

This might be an excuse to get me one of those fancy bronze/brass hammers.

 

[HolisticPerformance]

We don't even need a real reason, just the possibility of a reason, to buy more tools. Doctor, please help.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I have a SPX/OTC ball joint separtor; works great and never damages the ball joint ..

YES!

I have one of these and use it all the time, works perfectly and never damages a thing. WELL worth the price, which isn't a lot anyway, and saves damaging anything by beating on the hub/knuckle assembly with a hammer. For anyone who doesn't have one, buy one and you'll wonder how you ever got on without it. Time/life saver.

 

[Merkava_4]

^^^^
But will it work on my Buick? That's what I need to know for sure before I push the button in obtaining this lovely tool.

 

[jdcompman]

I used to have a hell of a time with this job and dreaded doing it every time until a "Yard Tard" working as a parts puller at a local junk yard gave me the best tip ever. Remove the bottom nut from the joint and then get out your BFH steel hammer and give each side of the joint 3-4 good whacks. Now reinstall the nut flush with the end of the threads and reach for the BFH again. Give the bottom of the nut a good whack and it should pop right out.

Every since he told me this, it's worked on every car I've tried it on!!

 

[caper]

I usually just stick a long prybar in against the frame and pry down the control arm,ball joint usually separates fairly easy.Or you could get the snap on tool:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...=20056&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

 

[goodfellow]

+2 on the OTC BJ separator. I just don't like beating on cast aluminum parts -- even with a brass BFH. Way too expensive if you screw up.

 

[rsanter]

I have a SPX/OTC ball joint separtor; works great and never damages the ball joint ..

this is what I am thinking of.
these work great

bob

 

[caper]

I never seen this OTC separater in action.Does it press down on the ball joint stud and basically squeeze the joint apart like a c-clamp?Is there enough room to fit it between the top of the balljoint stud and the cv joint?Some vehicles barely have room for the nut to come off without hitting the cv joint.Does Merk's buick have a nut on top of the stud or a pinch bolt through the spindle?If it's a pinch bolt,a simple pry on the control arm will pop it right out.

 

[Mike83]

Merkava - funny you ask this. I need to pull an impala half shaft due to leaking CV boot. I was just going to borrow an Autozone ball joint separator.

Edit: Autozone does not have one like that OTC separator. In fact, the OTC one seems to have much more flexibility of sizes than other brands (it opens to 2".) I think I may buy that one.

 

[jerk_chicken]

I have a SPX/OTC ball joint separtor; works great and never damages the ball joint ..

I've always used that type, or any of the others. They all work.

The amazing thing here is the hack "hammering" method that inevitably damages components or creates more work for later. The first time I used one of these presses, I couldn't believe mechanics still hammer the tie rods out.

I guess no one wants to use their nice tools to spend less energy and time to just easily pop out the joint.

 

[Keep]

I've always used that type, or any of the others. They all work.

The amazing thing here is the hack "hammering" method that inevitably damages components or creates more work for later. The first time I used one of these presses, I couldn't believe mechanics still hammer the tie rods out.

I guess no one wants to use their nice tools to spend less energy and time to just easily pop out the joint.

There is a reason they put the flat spot on the spindles/control arms. That is there so you can smack it with a hammer to separate the ball joints. Nothing "hack" about it.

 

[jerk_chicken]

At least on the older Audis I worked on, the only flat spots were put there by someone using a hammer.

Again, regardless of these "designed in" flatspots for hammer strikes, why not just use a press? They're easy and fast.

 

[HolisticPerformance]

At least on the older Audis I worked on, the only flat spots were put there by someone using a hammer.

Again, regardless of these "designed in" flatspots for hammer strikes, why not just use a press? They're easy and fast.

Because in 90% of situations, they are TOTALLY unecessary. The remaining 10%, not having the tool would require only slightly more work than having the tool, and its more money spent on a large, bulky tool that wastes space in your tool box.

 

[Delray]

Loosen the ball joint nut but do not remove, Put a floor jack under the A-frame. I assume the car is on jack stands also. Back up one side of the knuckle with a large hammer 4-5lbs Sharply smack the other side with a 32 oz. ball peen.

 

[kiall1987]

I usually use a ball joint separator when I can get access if not i use a lever to pry/apply some pressure and give the knuckle to sharp whack to break the taper with the nut still on the thread part to protect it from damage

 

[Moose-LandTran]

Here is mine in action:

 

[paramudduck]

That picture makes that thing look HUGE! Looks like a great ideal tho. Hmm an excuse for more storage... Yes I definitely need one or more of them.

 

[jerk_chicken]

I've even used that cheapie that just hooks around the arm and them has a bolt in the middle. Takes up about as much room as a few sockets in my toolbox and goes for like $20

 

[kiall1987]

I've even used that cheapie that just hooks around the arm and them has a bolt in the middle. Takes up about as much room as a few sockets in my toolbox and goes for like $20

I think that some merc lower balljoints need a style of separator like that due to the set-up and access .

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I'm willing to bet that no tool will be needed. Many modern cars use a ball joint with a straight stud on them, rather than a tapered one, the stud (unthreaded) just slides up into the spindle, and it retained by a horizontal/fore aft bolt that passes thru a groove in the stud. If it doesn't have a nut and cotter pin on the end of the ball joint stud, I would pull the thru bolt and see if it falls apart, or may be stuck and only require some gentle persuasion.

Charles

 

[Moose-LandTran]

That picture makes that thing look HUGE! Looks like a great ideal tho. Hmm an excuse for more storage... Yes I definitely need one or more of them.

It's not that big. I have 3 different ones, they all get used. They're really handy things, and avoid damaging anything. Few turns with a socket or wrench and bang goes the ball-joint without a mark on it. I hate the hammer method, this works perfectly every time.

This is my big Klann one for commercial vehicles and 4x4s. It's a serious piece of kit!

I think that some merc lower balljoints need a style of separator like that due to the set-up and access .

Yes, so do some BMWs although usually you can get around it and use one of these. It's handy to have 2-3 different ones and cover all bases.

I'm willing to bet that no tool will be needed. Many modern cars use a ball joint with a straight stud on them, rather than a tapered one, the stud (unthreaded) just slides up into the spindle, and it retained by a horizontal/fore aft bolt that passes thru a groove in the stud. If it doesn't have a nut and cotter pin on the end of the ball joint stud, I would pull the thru bolt and see if it falls apart, or may be stuck and only require some gentle persuasion.

Charles

Those are common on Euro Fords and some VW-Audi cars like Passats/A4s/A6s/etc the problem is that sometimes both the ball-joint stud and the pinch bolt seize. And then the only option is the use a big drift to drive out the pinch bolt (often thereby damaging/destroying it) and then find a way to pop the ball-joint stud. For this i find a bolt where the thread is a close size to the stud, i then cut about 1/2"-3/4" of the thread and place it atop the stud like an "extension" and use the separator as i would on a threaded taper ball-joint. Personally, i prefer taper threaded ball-joints.

 

[caper]

Moose thats kinda how I figured it worked,I think it would be virtually useless on alot of north american design front wheel drive lower ball joints.There's alot of cars over here that that tool wouldn't fit between the top of the stud and the cv joint.Looks like a nice tool but it's applications are limited on some vehicles.

 

[Moose-LandTran]

The OCT tool only need about 1/2" clearance to get in, If you can get the nut off with the ball-joint in place, you can get the separator on. For times it won't fit, i carefully use a pickle fork, rarely do i tear the boots if i work carefully.