Lower Control Arm/Ball Joint Prying Tools

[87BMW325is]

I've used one in the past that was my boss's at the time and it made things a breeze compared to using a prybar. I got fed up the other day and almost took my fingers off on a particularly rusty car, so I've decided to pull the trigger on one. Has anyone used one or both of these tools?

Blue point LCAT1A 90 bucks on ebay

SIM TOOLS LCAT6803 219 on amazon

Which one should I get? The SIM TOOLS looks more versatile but also possibly not as rugged and it's a lot more expensive. I'm not even sure if the Blue Point is still in production or if that picture of the tools is accurate since it's different on the box. Just throw me any input you want, I guess.

Thanks, guys!

 

[losvre]

If you need some tool to remove the ball joint from the arm, the best would be a puller



Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

 

[R W]

There was a video on UTube showing these,(lower control arm tool) they appeared to be a great idea.

 

[Keel]

I'd get the puller /press.. not that thing..

 

[shockwave]

Never really had a need for that a pry bar will do about the same
You might look at a pickle fork set is quick removing of ball joints

 

[vssjim]

Never really had a need for that a pry bar will do about the same
You might look at a pickle fork set is quick removing of ball joints

I think that is because you live in Georgia even up here rust is a large problem to getting the straight stud out of knuckle, they can really get stuck and that little tool listed above wont fit most cars I have worked on. The SIM tool works the best and the OTC hook you can by will get you by on a lot of cars just a little more dangerous from slipping off.

 

[APEowner]

I don't think that those of you who are suggesting pullers and presses understand what the tool is for. It's basically a prybar that's optimized for lower control arms. Here's a link to a video showing how it's used.-> Video

I've never used one but if I was still doing front end work for a living I word certainly buy one.

 

[Tonellin]

I don't think that those of you who are suggesting pullers and presses understand what the tool is for. It's basically a prybar that's optimized for lower control arms. Here's a link to a video showing how it's used.-> Video

I've never used one but if I was still doing front end work for a living I word certainly buy one.

That is awesome

 

[anndel]

I've used one for when I replaced some parts on my father in law's truck. My wife said it looked like a jacked up crow bar.

 

[md21722]

Yeah, this tool is to get leverage to separate the stud from the knuckle, once the taper is freed or the pinch bolt removed. Eric O. at SMA uses it quite frequently.

 

[DakotaMan]

deleted

 

[DakotaMan]

I don't think that those of you who are suggesting pullers and presses understand what the tool is for. It's basically a prybar that's optimized for lower control arms. Here's a link to a video showing how it's used.-> Video

I've never used one but if I was still doing front end work for a living I word certainly buy one.

Thanks. I totally misunderstood what was going on based on the comments. I thought it was going to separate the LCA from the knuckle, not push the LCA down to assist removing struts.

 

[dsmnickk90]

If you need some tool to remove the ball joint from the arm, the best would be a puller



Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk

I'd get the puller /press.. not that thing..

Never really had a need for that a pry bar will do about the same
You might look at a pickle fork set is quick removing of ball joints

These are for tapered ball joints. The prying tool is for stright stud ball joints that use a pinch bolt in the knuckle. I've seen the red one being used before and looks like it works great. I personally have only used a long pry bar. I would like to see how the OTC hook works

 

[joecon]

I used the OTC hook
http://tse1.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.r...7&h=105&c=8&rs=1&qlt=90&dpr=1.25&pid=3.1&rm=2

 

[87BMW325is]

I would like to thank you all for your responses - especially those of you who clarified the purpose of these tools. I do have a puller/separator that preloads the joints and it works when it fits (I've actually been considering buying a second one from harbor freight and modifying it for bigger vehicles), and the shop I work at has both an OTC and Snap On Ball joint press. Both are very cool and useful tools.

I think I'm going to give the Sim Tools version a shot, despite it being over double the price of the Blue Point. I've used the Blue Point, and while it worked great, there were some times that I couldn't use it that I think the reversible hook will remedy for the most part. I must say, if I were getting one of these for home use, especially for use with a floor jack/jack stands, I would give the OTC hook a try. I'm not even sure that a floor jack would accommodate the dimensions needed to use a long tool like this.

I will try to remember to give you guys an update when I get it and start to use it. I had trouble finding any info/opinions on these tools, so hopefully this thread can help some other people out.

 

[87BMW325is]

Tool arrived today! I ended paying 199 with free shipping on the company's website. Ordered it Sunday night and it got here today, Thursday, from Hawaii.

The owner of the company, Henry Sim was extremely accommodating in responding to my email inquiries in great detail. I even received a handwritten note on the packing slip and a pack of Hawaiian branded macadamia nuts, haha. Awesome!

 

[vettex2]

Can you post bigger pics?

I've used one in the past that was my boss's at the time and it made things a breeze compared to using a prybar. I got fed up the other day and almost took my fingers off on a particularly rusty car, so I've decided to pull the trigger on one. Has anyone used one or both of these tools?

Blue point LCAT1A 90 bucks on ebay

SIM TOOLS LCAT6803 219 on amazon

Which one should I get? The SIM TOOLS looks more versatile but also possibly not as rugged and it's a lot more expensive. I'm not even sure if the Blue Point is still in production or if that picture of the tools is accurate since it's different on the box. Just throw me any input you want, I guess.

Thanks, guys!

Can you post bigger pics?

 

[87BMW325is]

I mean I could certainly try if you'd like!

 

[impactsocket]

I could not find the Blue Point LCAT1A on the Snap-on / Blue-Point website. Most online tool retailers are not selling this tool. Is it discontinued?

http://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/

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The OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool is only $17.43.

Does it slip off the lower control arm?

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6007-Lower-Control-Prying/dp/B000R5BLW4

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Lisle Lower Control Arm Tool No. 64700 is only $20.37

Does it slip off the lower control arm?

https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/lower-control-arm-tool

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/lisle-64700-lower-control-arm-tool

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SIM TOOLS LCAT6803 Lower Control Arm Tool is $259.00

It's expensive but looks solid. Where can I buy it for less?

https://www.amazon.com/SIM-TOOLS-LCAT6803-Lower-Control/dp/B00PHMGT6K


Video:

Instruction tool use:

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1019/2583/files/LCAT6083Instructions.pdf

 

[joetech]

awesome.... thanks for bringing this back up to the top. If I'd had the actual lower control arm tool maybe I wouldn't have smashed myself in the face the other day trying to reposition the lower control arm to put a driveshaft in.

I wouldn't buy the tools for the little bit that I do work that involves the lower control arms, but I'm glad to know that this stuff is out there. I like the OTC tools hook for $19 the best from what I'm seeing for the little I do. Another idea would be to use a vise grip chain pliers and lock on a bar. KISS for right now.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I like the looks of that Lisle tool!

 

[bwringer]

You know, I had no idea a solution for this problem even existed.

Thanks for the enlightenment, y'all.

 

[impactsocket]

I tried to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm on a Honda Element. I hammered a wide pickle fork all the way in and was careful not to touch the rubber ball joint but I was only able to get the ball joint half-way out.

Here's a pic of a pickle fork inserted all the way (Note this is a pic I found on the web).

I rented the Autozone PowerBuilt pickle forks. Only one of the wide pickle forks fit with out touching the ball joint but it was not thick enough.

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Has anyone tried the Lisle 41220 Thick Pickle Fork Set, 5pc.? $107.47 at amazon.com
The Lisle 41220 Thick Pickle Fork are 20% thicker.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41220-Thick-Pickle-Fork/dp/B01HZ6C126

 

[plinker]

Has anyone tried the Lisle 41220 Thick Pickle Fork Set, 5pc.? $107.47 at amazon.com The Lisle 41220 Thick Pickle Fork are 20% thicker.


I've got a 3pc Lisle/Matco set with the air hammer and punch adapter, they work fine. I dont use them a lot though. Usually rapping the steering knuckle where the taper is will pop them loose, otherwise a brass tip air hammer bit works nicely with the nut partially threaded on to pop it loose.

 

[bwringer]

We seem to have two groups of people here talking about two totally separate types of tools.

 

[impactsocket]

I think the Blue Point LCAT1A and Lisle Lower Control Arm Tool No. 64700 are discontinued tools.

 

[MattT]

We seem to have two groups of people here talking about two totally separate types of tools.

The scary part is the people off in their little alternate discussion seem to think they're answering the OPs question

 

[plinker]

The scary part is the people off in their little alternate discussion seem to think they're answering the OPs question

In practice, there does seem to be a difference between popping out a ball joint and prying a control arm out of the way.

Nothing new about a thread derailing on to another track though.

 

[ChrisLS8]

It's a good idea, I personally just remove the nut from the end links to drop the arms a bit lower

 

[NYBODYMAN]

The Lisle tool appears to be obsolete per their website. Does anyone have one or know the dimensions? Looks pretty simple to make.

 

[impactsocket]

Wishbone Lever Bar Extractor Tool sells for $123.12

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Wishbone-Lever-Bar-Extractor-Tool-Bottom-Arm-Control-Tool-Wheel-Bearing-Set-Ball-Joint-Suspension-Arm/32963964832.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.2.60d6114eUz1PPG&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_3_10065_10130_10068_10890_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_453_10084_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10902_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103-10890,searchweb201603_51,ppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=15ebf7de-f6c2-4d3d-8c60-ce3fc386e56e-0&algo_pvid=15ebf7de-f6c2-4d3d-8c60-ce3fc386e56e&transAbTest=ae803_3


Video of tool in use:

 

[Mr_B]

bit of chain and a u shackle or bolt works well and pretty much free .

 

[joetech]

In practice, there does seem to be a difference between popping out a ball joint and prying a control arm out of the way.

Nothing new about a thread derailing on to another track though.

People are iditos aren't they?

You should never need a pickle fork to begin with. My boss doesn't even own a pickle fork and I haven't used one in ten years. Several different ways to pop ball joints without using pickle forks.

 

[impactsocket]

Most people use a 32 oz or 40 oz hammer and beat the **** out of the LCA ball joint area leaving dents in the metal.

joetech, what do you use with a rusted out ball joint? What if it doesn't come out with penetrating oil and a huge hammer? Have you ever done a rusted out one on just jack stands?

It's a lot easier with a 2 post lift but if you are working on your car at home most people do not have a lift.

 

[joetech]

Most people use a 32 oz or 40 oz hammer and beat the **** out of the LCA ball joint area leaving dents in the metal.

joetech, what do you use with a rusted out ball joint? What if it doesn't come out with penetrating oil and a huge hammer? Have you ever done a rusted out one on just jack stands?

It's a lot easier with a 2 post lift but if you are working on your car at home most people do not have a lift.

Put a jack or jack stand under the ball joint (assuming the nut is facing down) and then let the jack down and hit it a few times. Gives pretty quick. That's the DIY at home method. At work we use a IR air hammer and hammer on it. They pop pretty quick.

YMMV of course. I haven't done that many myself.

 

[xjfish]

Thanks for this post! Planning on buying one of the mentioned products. I have invested in many different pry bars. Need a LCA bar!

 

[impactsocket]

Does anyone have the OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool?

According to the official OTC website it is best to use the OTC 6007 with the OTC 7420 (54 inch) or 7421 (46 inch) pry bar which are rounded not 4 flat sides. Will a 4 flat sided pry bar fit in the circular hole of the OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool?

Link to OTC website: https://www.otctools.com/products/lower-control-arm-prying-tool

 

[Eric29]

Yes. The site also says that “any 7/8" diameter pry bar” will work.

A small crowbar will fit into the opening of the tool, as will most longer pry bars. I didn’t have to buy a special pry bar to use it.

Does anyone have the OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool?

According to the official OTC website it is best to use the OTC 6007 with the OTC 7420 (54 inch) or 7421 (46 inch) pry bar which are rounded not 4 flat sides. Will a 4 flat sided pry bar fit in the circular hole of the OTC 6007 Lower Control Arm Prying Tool?

Link to OTC website: https://www.otctools.com/products/lower-control-arm-prying-tool

 

[impactsocket]

Eric29, what length pry bar do you use with the OTC 6007? How many inches is your pry bar?

 

[pelletman]

I don't think that those of you who are suggesting pullers and presses understand what the tool is for. It's basically a prybar that's optimized for lower control arms. Here's a link to a video showing how it's used.-> Video

I've never used one but if I was still doing front end work for a living I word certainly buy one.

I thought OP was talking about removing and or separating ball joints?