Lowering trailer

[cspcrx]

I have a twin axle Carson utility trailer I use to haul my car to the track on. Going to be replacing the deck and it got me thinking of some other projects I would like to do.

My 1986 CRX is low enough that in order to load it I have to put the rear wheels of the truck up on ramps and use custom made 7ft aluminum ramps so the nose doesn’t scrape.

The axle already sits on top of the springs so it got me thinking I could lower the deck height a few inches by using blocks like people do on lowered trucks. The car only weights 1900lbs so I’m not to worried about losing some height.

Hope is maybe I can get enough so I dont need ramps under the rear tires. Anyone know if that would work?

Thanks all

 

[NUTTSGT]

Does your trailer have a dovetail ?

 

[mike93lx]

Blocks could work, but you have to make sure you have clearance for suspension travel.

Another option is drop axles, which can be done with leaf springs or torsion axles.

Yet another option could be smaller tires.

Whatever you do, make sure you get the right ball mount to keep the trailer level when under way.

 

[ace10]

I've seen people in the paddock use an electric trailer jack to get the front of the trailer elevated.

Probably would only want to do it on stable, level ground, but that's gotta be the EZ button way to solve the problem.

 

[cspcrx]

No dove tail on the trailer. In hind site that would have been worth adding when I had it built. Trying to keep cost under control so switching axle systems may be upside the financial plan for this. Have a zero cost solution right now just getting tired of having to back the truck with a loaded trailer up on ramps.

I just bought new tires a couple of months ago and it hit me after I bought them to by lower aspect ratio tires to gain some as well.

Thanks guys.

 

[mike93lx]

I've seen people in the paddock use an electric trailer jack to get the front of the trailer elevated.

Probably would only want to do it on stable, level ground, but that's gotta be the EZ button way to solve the problem.

I don't know if I would call that easier. You have to unhook, chock the trailer and jack it up. Then lower it, hook it back up and remove the chocks. Extra work every time and what if you can't do all that?

Dropping it one time makes it easier every time you are loading and unloading, as long as the ground clearance doesn't pose a problem

 

[ace10]

Leave it hooked up. Truck body goes up with the trailer.


I couldn't load my 2000lb track car into my enclsoed aluminum trailer if it wasn't hooked to a vehicle. Needed the counterweight.

 

[Jagmandave]

Exactly, that's how I always loaded my Super 7, truck *** end goes up, back end of the trailer goes down. I have an electric version so I didn't have to hand crank it endlessly. Once loaded or unloaded, push the button to set the truck level again for the weekend.

 

[californiamilleghia]

I think you need to think how to make long lightweight ramps ,

I have some that are about 7 ft long and look like a HD ladder ,

I really would like a drop bed trailer like the machine movers have......
but they are pretty heavy.........

 

[cspcrx]

I have custom 7ft aluminum ramps right now and they are not enough. That’s why I have to put the rear truck tires up on ramps to get the slope less steep. I could remove the front bumper and drive it on without the truck on ramps but that’s one more thing to mess with before and after every time. Perhaps some blocks and then an electric jack to get the extra angle I need. Saw some one trailer that plug into the 7pin.

 

[PDM]

Can raise your trailer Jack at the same time as mentioned to assist in reducing the ramp angle.

Raceramps do make these and are lightweight but not super cheap.

https://www.raceramps.com/c/trailer/

Open wheel racers often run taller transport tires to get around rub issues and makes for less friction vs fat slicks for rolling around pits and in/out of your shop. (Not sure if you can fit tall profile tires for transport only on your CRX)

Assuming your running A7s on your SM2 car so you could even jump the pressure up high to raise the front end up as I know I ran my 275s around 23 psi on my CSP Miata.

 

[cspcrx]

I looked at the race ramps, like you said they are pricey. I actually have a race ramp setup that goes around my scissor lift. I wish I could use those, since I have them already but they hook on the wrong way.

It’s even worse on my 13in A7s than my 15in track setup. I always air up the 13s as it won’t go on otherwise.

 

[firebirdparts]

To answer your original question, lowering a trailer is pretty harmless, and it sounds like a great idea in your situation. At each level you lower it, it'll drag on more stuff. However, dragging on stuff doesn't necessarily hurt anything. You be the judge on that. I have a dovetail, and it's pretty easy for me to touch the ground with it in my own front yard. On pavement, it's pretty rare.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Having the trailer cut for a dovetail would be a one time correction and you could leave everything thing else along. Load & go.

 

[CraigStu]

Heck, get some lowering blocks. They are cheap, come in different thicknesses, and have been in use for decades. Be sure to check the detail of how the axle is locked to the spring so it can't slide forward or back and be sure that function is retained w/ the blocks. You could experiment w/ thickness by making some blocks from 1x2 oak to do around the neighborhood trials. I know it looks weird but changing your ball mount to raise the front of the trailer an inch or so could help too. Also I would assume you carry a floor jack w/ you so a 2'x3' piece of 3/4 plywood (unless every track you run has really nice pits you should be using plywood to jack your car anyway) and some dedicated blocks to go on top of the jack pad could make jacking the trailer tongue up a couple inches easier and will help. Thinking a combination of small adjustments may get you the total you need.
1-1.5" blocks, 1-1.5" higher ball mount, 2-3" jack front of trailer = solution.

 

[Justind97]

Would the aluminum ramps be strong enough for you to make the ramp itself longer?

ie, use some dimensional lumber to decrease the loading angle by 8-10' and have the aluminum end hook onto the wood somehow? (drop pin through the ramp into the wood, etc) The aluminum ramps at this point would not have support underneath unless adding a few blocks if there's feet of some sort on them.

 

[cspcrx]

CraigStu that’s what I was hoping to hear. Like you said a couple of low cost parts combine to the solution.

Thanks all I knew this was the right place to come.

 

[Paul_The_Builder]

Could put leveling jacks on all 4 corners of the trailer, and you could adjust the tilt of the bed manually without even having the truck hooked up to it.

 

[mike93lx]

Could put leveling jacks on all 4 corners of the trailer, and you could adjust the tilt of the bed manually without even having the truck hooked up to it.

Why would you need anything more than a tongue jack and chocks?

 

[firebirdparts]

Well, a lot of times, it's fun to think up solutions to the problem that cost 10 times more than the easy one.

 

[Spareparts]

Cut some 2"X12" boards about 3' and place them under the ramps, if that isnt enough try a 2' one on top of the 3' one, $12.00

 

[mike93lx]

Cut some 2"X12" boards about 3' and place them under the ramps, if that isnt enough try a 2' one on top of the 3' one, $12.00

Have you seen lumber prices recently? It's probably cheaper to buy a new trailer

 

[Spareparts]

If you can find what you want it will be about 30% higher

 

[mike93lx]

If you can find what you want it will be about 30% higher

I was joking...

 

[Paul_The_Builder]

Why would you need anything more than a tongue jack and chocks?

If you try to drive a car onto a flatbed trailer with just the tongue jack and chocks, the front end of the trailer will come up off the ground unless its connected to a vehicle.

Jacks under the rear edge of the trailer (ideally right below the ramps) will keep the trailer from tipping backwards, and let you load it without the trailer being connected to a truck.

If you have leveling jacks on all 4 corners, you could raise the front of the trailer a few inches off the ground farther than it would naturally sit, and leave the rear jacks a few inches lower, and gain 10 degrees or so of angle to the trailer to gain a little bit of ground clearance when loading a car on it.

I have leveling jacks on my 6x12 enclosed trailer that I use for my motorcycle. That way I can leave it unhooked from my truck, and the entire trailer is stable and I can use it like a mini garage without worrying about it tipping in any direction.

 

[cspcrx]

Thanks for that idea as well. The leaf springs on these 3500lb axles are 1 3/4 in wide which seems to be a special width for trailers. I have found lots of 2in and wider at very reasonable prices. I found one place, trailer blocks, that seems to specialize in this size. A pair of two inch blocks in a kit with Ubolts and plates is $258 and you need to kits for twin axle. OUCH! When you can find 2in truck kits for less than $150. Specialty comes with an extra special price!

 

[Tduby]

I know you already have the trailer and are probably happy with it other than the current problem but they really seem to hold their value probably wouldn’t be hard to sell it and buy one that is better suited to your needs.

 

[cspcrx]

I actually found a local spring shop, been in business since 1947, that will make the blocks for you for $25 each. They were very familiar with the size needed and have made many sets in the past. They also sell the shackles for $10. Much cheaper than the online option I found.

Going to try a 2 inch block. I measured 5.5 inches between the top of the tire and the fender. Feel this will still give me room so the tires won’t rub. I just pulled all the boards off the trailer, they needed replacement so it’s easy to see what’s going on.

May the try using the tongue jack that’s on the trailer to see if I can get enough lift to make it work. If not I will get an electric jack as previously mentioned. Think that would give the last bit I need.

Thanks again guys!

 

[mike93lx]

I actually found a local spring shop, been in business since 1947, that will make the blocks for you for $25 each. They were very familiar with the size needed and have made many sets in the past. They also sell the shackles for $10. Much cheaper than the online option I found.

Going to try a 2 inch block. I measured 5.5 inches between the top of the tire and the fender. Feel this will still give me room so the tires won’t rub. I just pulled all the boards off the trailer, they needed replacement so it’s easy to see what’s going on.

May the try using the tongue jack that’s on the trailer to see if I can get enough lift to make it work. If not I will get an electric jack as previously mentioned. Think that would give the last bit I need.

Thanks again guys!

Is that 5.5" unloaded?

 

[510ebl]

Well, a lot of times, it's fun to think up solutions to the problem that cost 10 times more than the easy one.

This is why the OP should consider air ride... https://www.autoflexsuspensions.com/trailer-flex

 

[Ilikeike]

I bought one with 4" drop axles and a "Z" tongue so I don't have an extra long *** drop hitch on my lifted truck.

It's pretty low, my Camaro is dropped down and just barely gets on the ramp.
I put steel rollers under the tail so the trailer can roll and not drag off curbs.

 

[Firebrick43]

Get air ride equalizers and let them down to load.

 

[cspcrx]

That trailer is low, looks almost like you wdont need ramps, I am sure you do but wow.

5.5 is unloaded. I measure once long ago and I think if memory served my right it dropped less than 1/2 with the car on it. Trailer is so over built for what I haul but I wanted a twin axle.