Lowest vibration reciprocating saw

[skernv99]

Looking for any feedback on a cordless reciprocating saw with a noticeable difference in low vibration. I have the Milwaukee M12 Hackzall and after using it to cut out a lower control arm on my truck (a couple of hours of sawing) , I felt the after effects on my hands and arms. Granted I have chicken arms so maybe any vibrating power tool will have that affect on me. But I wanted to explore about seeing if there are any other cordless recip saws out there that folks would recommend as having noticeable low vibration. Would prefer a compact model to get into tigh spaces, especially for automotive work, but would consider a full size recip saw.

Edit: forgot to add, I was using gloves that had some cushion in the palm.

 

[danski0224]

If money is no object, then look at HILTI.

Their reciprocating saws have been the smoothest that I've used, by far.

I haven't used any of their "current" offerings, but their 18V and corded saws were really nice.

Festool would probably also be good.

Bosch had (has?) a corded anti vibration version, and it was also nice, but noticeably heavier than pretty much anything else.

The Milwaukee M18 Fuel Hackzall seems to be well balanced.

A couple of hours cutting? That's a lot. I'd suggest Diablo carbide tipped blades.

 

[engineer2]

Look at the newer Makita models.

 

[visionguru]

They are all similar than they are different. The reciprocating action don't produce much vibration, it's the sawblade interacting with the metal.

On the other hand, good saw blades can provide night and day difference. Guess how catalytic converter thieves steal a converter in 20 seconds? Carbide blades

 

[Renegade1LI]

The key with a recip saw is a good blade & keeping the foot tight to the work piece. The M12 hackzall is a good little saw but if yo go to the M18 you'll find the extra power will make cutting much easier.

 

[ATC]

I have the Milwaukee M12 Hackzall .... (a couple of hours of sawing) .... I felt the after effects on my hands and arms.

Found your problem.

Depends on what I'm doing, but sometimes just 10 minutes of sawing in an awkward position can make me feel it.
Other times, I can make a hundred cuts a day and be just fine.

 

[milkovich]

If one control arm took a few hours, I'd probably just use another saw. I have a cordless dewalt, but if I were going to saw something that substantial, I'd jump into a big corded version. I have a very old Hitachi that weighs 10 lbs, but the Milwaukee was always a classic. I really like the Milwaukee torch blades with carbide. I can't imagine it would take a full minute to get through a control arm.

 

[RTM]

I’d use the Portaband if I could get it in there.

 

[cmandp]

I have a M12 hackall (not the Fuel version). 2 hours is about what I would expect it to take to cut something like that!

Part of the problem is it didn't have enough power for the task. I find the blade often gets pinched and then it just shaking your hands.

It was just that the saw was shaking your hands more than it was cutting for 2 hours.

I 18v cordless or probably 10Amp + corded would be better.

 

[PBCampbell]

Maybe invest in some anti-vibration gloves if this is a common thing.

 

[American Locomotive]

My Makita 18v compact recip saw (the black one) is pretty good. However the trick is you need to keep the saw's fence/foot pushed tightly against the work. If you're "floating" the saw, your arms are going to be taking the brunt of the saw's reciprocating action.

The old school super heavy plug-in recip saws would cut decently without being pushed up against something because they weighed so much and had a ton of inertia. The modern lighter tools absolutely need to be pushed up against the work.

Also, you need to look into carbide or better blades if you took you a couple of hours to sawzall through some sheet metal control arms. I used to cut through Jeep control arms in like 30 seconds with good blades.

 

[kngelv]

A reciprocating saw is always my last choice to cut anything. They all vibrate too much IMHO. I would choose any portaband all day long. We have a very small Hilti one at work that is great for fitting in spots where a full size one could not fit.

James

 

[Mb4]

The lowest vibration saw would be the corded Skilsaw 15 amp reciprocating saw with buzzkill technology. After that, I would go with a corded Milwaukee 15 amp Sawzall. the 15 amp corded reciprocating saws have better vibration counterbalances because they are designed to work all day on a demolition site. If you need cordless, I would recommend the Flex reciprocating saw or the Milwaukee M18 Super Sawzall. If you're worried about vibrations, avoid DeWalt reciprocating saws.

 

[dnschmidt]

Tool Box Buzz with Rob just did a comprehensive test on Recips. Check it out.
Lower voltage:

36 Volts and Up:

 

[tarbellb]

Anything with more power and better blades

 

[Old Man Roger]

Sounds like you had a dull blade. A good blade, and like others have mentioned, keep the foot of the saw firmly against what you’re cutting.

If your saw has a low speed setting, that helps on thicker material, and it keeps the blade from getting hot and getting dull.

 

[dnschmidt]

Also, for what you were cutting you're nuts if you don't use one of the newer CARBIDE tipped blades. Bimetal was all we used to have but Diablo's carbide tipped metal cutting Sawzall blades are the current hotness. Now, if it were me facing this task I'd have whipped out my Hobart plasma cutter: Job done.

 

[david3921]

As others have said above,

Looking for any feedback on a cordless reciprocating saw with a noticeable difference in low vibration. I have the Milwaukee M12 Hackzall and after using it to cut out a lower control arm on my truck (a couple of hours of sawing) , I felt the after effects on my hands and arms. Granted I have chicken arms so maybe any vibrating power tool will have that affect on me. But I wanted to explore about seeing if there are any other cordless recip saws out there that folks would recommend as having noticeable low vibration. Would prefer a compact model to get into tigh spaces, especially for automotive work, but would consider a full size recip saw.

Edit: forgot to add, I was using gloves that had some cushion in the palm.

Curious, were you cutting the bolts or the arm itself?

 

[skernv99]

Also, for what you were cutting you're nuts if you don't use one of the newer CARBIDE tipped blades. Bimetal was all we used to have but Diablo's carbide tipped metal cutting Sawzall blades are the current hotness. Now, if it were me facing this task I'd have whipped out my Hobart plasma cutter: Job done.

I was using Diablo bimetal blades. I will buy some carbide tipped blades for metal cutting. The only carbide blades I have are for nail embedded wood.

 

[skernv99]

As others have said above,

Curious, were you cutting the bolts or the arm itself?

Both. Bolts and one side of the arm ( because it was getting in the way ). The bolts for both bushings as well as the metal sleeve and in the front bushing were seized. This isn’t a rust belt truck. My truck has almost 250k miles with the original suspension components ( to include the bushings) so I decided to replace the lower control arms, upper control arms, and strut assemblies. The new lower control arms installed are factory with factory installed bushings. I will install the strut assemblies next and then the upper control arms soon after that in piecemeal.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

Isn’t an angle grinder the better tool for that job?

 

[skernv99]

Isn’t an angle grinder the better tool for that job?

I needed a recip saw to get in between the bushings to cut through the bolts and metal sleeve.

 

[david3921]

Isn’t an angle grinder the better tool for that job?

Based on the control arms I've replaced, yes...and no. Typically, there is a horizontal bolt and a vertical one. The horizontal bolt could be cut with either tool as access isn't normally restricted. The vertical one is another matter. Both the top and bottom are typically recessed and not accessible. You usually have to cut the bolt in a pocket where the bushing is like skernv describes. I can see the issue he had as you can't push the plate to the work. You have to free hand the cut. I've made it easier to do by shortening the blade so it doesn't hit stuff during its stroke.