Lubing old GE motor on tool grinder

[AntonLargiader]

I recently got this tool grinder; it's a K.O. Lee B803 and I suspect the rest of the model number indicates that it's from 1952.* It needs a lot of cleanup but specifically the old GE motor; it squeaks at speed.There are no oiling holes so I assume it's a ball bearing motor.

Do I just clean up the shaft and slide one end cap at a time back to access the bearing? I'd rather not dismount the grinding wheels.

It looks like I could also pull seals away and probably access the bearings without disturbing anything else, but I would damage the seals in the process. And if the old grease is hardened, my experience is that it needs to be completely cleaned out.

The wheel turns very smoothly but there is some drag.

* EDIT: I think that's actually wrong; the model is B803-9-52 and I have seen a few others like this so it's probably all the model number.

 

[MShaw]

If those are precision bearings rather than bushings they should be removed and completely cleaned.
After cleaning rinse with clean solvent and pack with high speed grease. (Not wheel bearing grease or chassis lube) Do not fill completely with grease or they will overheat. If they are squeaking they may already be damaged and will need to be replaced. Good luck.

 

[larry_g]

I wish that I'd taken pictures for you when I had mine apart this week. What I found in mine were shielded ball bearings. I used a puller to to remove the flange from the nameplate end of the motor and then removed the end bell and armature from the other end. The start switch is on the nameplate end bell. I was then able to oil the bearings with a needle oiler and let the oil wick into the bearing. There is a gap between the bearing and the shaft seal and I don't think trying to get oil past the seal will do anything but ruin the seal. I also believe that there is a spring in the nameplate end bell that biases the bearing and armature in one direction, though I'm not positive.

I have one difference on mine in that it has the optional extension on the short shaft so that prevents me from getting the end bell off of the short shaft end of the armature.

The end bells are a tight fit on this motor but they have those nubs on either side that you can catch with a flat bar and tap them gently to get it off.

Don't lose the spacer that is between the bearing and the start switch as I talked about in your other thread.

Did you find this list of publications, http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1738&tab=3

If you look at hte parts list for the B600 grinders you will see a section of the motor and the spring I'm thinking is in there is listed as item 281. Also down in the parts list is the bearing numbers.

good luck

lg
no neat sig line

 

[AntonLargiader]

I have the wheels off (I thought it would be trickier). How do the flanges come off? It looks like the flange and arbor are one part that sleeves over the motor shaft (which has a keyway).

 

[larry_g]

I have the wheels off (I thought it would be trickier). How do the flanges come off? It looks like the flange and arbor are one part that sleeves over the motor shaft (which has a keyway).

The flange is pressed on. I made a puller to pull the one side off. I only pulled the one side as the other side has the accessory extension on it and I did not want to remove it, yet.

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The second picture is a mockup for the picture only. I did have to put a bolt in the end of the motor shaft because it pulled hard till the end and the center of the flange hit the puller before it released from the shaft. In making the puller I was really wanting to put most of the pull near the center so as not to bend the flange which a normal 2 or 3 jaw puller might do


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lg
no neat sig line

 

[AntonLargiader]

Thanks. I guess that also answers my next question, which is whether you did this in situ or removed the motor. I don't even see HOW to remove the motor.

 

[larry_g]

Thanks. I guess that also answers my next question, which is whether you did this in situ or removed the motor. I don't even see HOW to remove the motor.

Two nuts under the motor loosened allow the motor to swivel. Remove them and you can lift the motor straight up. No reason not to do it in place though.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[AntonLargiader]

I rigged a puller and the first side came off with no more force than I had tried before. No idea why. The second side was a bit harder. Now I'm ready to remove the end caps and service the bearings.

I wish I had nothing better to do than spend a few days cleaning this machine up. Alas, it's just not the case.

 

[larry_g]

I did a bit of looking for bearings online and found a bunch $10 and under. So if yours are rely crunchy they look to be available and inexpensive.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[AntonLargiader]

It has New Departure metal shielded 6204 bearings, both with pretty dried-out lube. Both of them had a punctured shield, probably from someone adding oil in the past.

I'll get some new bearings.

EDIT: The inner race says 3204 but the size (14mm wide) is known as 6204. 47mm OD, 20mm ID.

 

[larry_g]

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1738/6626.pdf

In the above parts list they call out a 77504 bearing. I don't know the difference between that and a 6204 so it might bear looking at.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[AntonLargiader]

That number was on the metal shield. I Googled it and didn't see anything relevant. But if there's a better bearing to use than what I have now (6204-2RS), it'll be easy enough to change.