Lubing vice??

[BerBer5985]

I'm trying to restore an old Wilton 4" torco vice that was my grandfathers. I have it all stripped down of rest and painted it, but what should I use to lube the screw mechanism? I'll take pics when done. I was so mad because the paint wasn't completely dry and I set it on the slightly tacky side to paint the other side and it got a little messed up on a tiny area.

 

[ZRX61]

I use LubriPlate, altho other white lithium gease is fine

 

[BerBer5985]

There it is.

The jaws aren't in it yet. I just was putting in back together this morning

 

[BanjoSavesTheDay]

I use antisieze and although it's messy, it has worked well for me so far.

 

[autopts]

Torco first showed up in Wilton's 1953 catalog and ran into the 70's. They were only available in 3 1/2 & 4".. This is from my camera. My scanner busted.

 

[ZRX61]

damn dude, I have a table I use for painting vises. I've done at least 10 so far & it STILL doesn't have as much paint on it as you managed to put on that Workmate. LOL!

 

[lipadj46]

antiseize or brake caliper grease just because they are thicker and stick better, maybe super lube too.

 

[BerBer5985]

Haha I put three coats on!! It's thoroughly covered. It may never dry but it's covered!

 

[Brad54]

I'm curious why you need to lube the Acme thread?
It's a square thread--they're designed specifically to do work (unlike finer threads that are designed to hold things together).

Lubricant isn't going to stop the thread from wearing, because there's just not that much wear that's going to occur. It's not going to make working the vise noticeably different.

I always thought that the grease on the screw thread would collect dust and shop grime and turn to a paste... the vise I just restored this weekend would seem to confirm that--the lube on the Acme thread was caked black, and the vise was difficult to open. With the Acme thread dry, it works great.

-Brad

 

[mjozefow]

I'm curious why you need to lube the Acme thread?
It's a square thread--they're designed specifically to do work (unlike finer threads that are designed to hold things together).

Lubricant isn't going to stop the thread from wearing, because there's just not that much wear that's going to occur. It's not going to make working the vise noticeably different.

I always thought that the grease on the screw thread would collect dust and shop grime and turn to a paste... the vise I just restored this weekend would seem to confirm that--the lube on the Acme thread was caked black, and the vise was difficult to open. With the Acme thread dry, it works great.

-Brad

I respectfully disagree Brad.

Why are the screws that drive machine tool tables lubricated? Why are vises shipped from the factory lubed? Why do Wiltons make such a big deal about their enclosed slides "keeping lubricants in"?

Go lube your vise with anti-seize and see the light!

 

[BerBer5985]

Did I do ok the restore? Everything was done with about 2 hours or wirebrushing with a cupped wire brush on an angle grinder and then cleaned well with TSP and brake cleaner and then painted with 3 coats of sunshine red rustoleum spray paint. I regret not using hammer tone.

 

[Lump]

Nice work on the vise, BerBer.

Now someday, someone else will be cussing, while THEY are trying to restore the "original" graphics and appearance to that "really old vintage B&D Workmate". Ha! The cycle goes on forever. It's kind of like the way I feel when I see 57 Chevy "antique" cars at events. I distinctly recall riding with my dad in our "modern" car; a '57 Chevy convertible, when we went somewhere to look at antique cars or parts for sale, or whatever. We would always keep the "modern" 57 Chevy out in the weather, to make room for the Hupmobile in the garage! And now today, since most states and the largest vintage car club in the world (AACA...Antique Automobile Club of America) consider any car of 25 years old or older to be an antique, that means you can go to the show at Hershey, and watch them judging an "antique" 1985 Chrylser K car, or a Chevette, a Yugo, or front wheel drive Olds Cutlass Cierra.

Sigh. I really AM an old dinosaur.

 

[Joe B.]

I think it looks great. Cute little vise that is different from many others.

The thing about vise restoration is that you have to keep doing it over and over again ever 50 years or so. So, it you mess up a little, you will get another shot. (assuming you are young and live a healthy life.)

 

[BerBer5985]

Hahaha! That workmate might have been my grandfathers and I'm using it for what it was intended for when it was made 30+ years ago. Still original and I've been using for my stain and finish table for holding my supplies while I work. It' small and convenient. My updated workmate is my rockwell jawhorse which is awesome, but I didn't particularly want it red. The 30+ year old workmate, eh, it gets abused, so what's a little coloR? haha

 

[toolfreak]

I spray a dry graphite on my vice, I wouldn't want to use grease since it attracts dirt.

 

[spongerich]

I'll put in another vote for anti seize. But what the hell to they put in that stuff that makes it get all over EVERYTHING?

 

[Davefr]

Every vise I've restored (which isn't very many) has been hard to open due to lubricant that's solidified vs. wear on the screw thread. Once that **** is removed they all pass the one finger test.

I guess my advise is a very light coating of lubricant. Just don't butter it up with globs of grease.

 

[SpiderGearsMan]

never thought to lube a vise
never lube anything with antiseize ,nor ever use it on anything

 

[ZRX61]

I regret not using hammer tone.

Use that on the next one...

 

[BerBer5985]

Alright I'm gonna go lube my vice. Haha

 

[bgott]

I decided to pull the slide on my C1 Wilton one night to check the date. That thing was lubed really well with animal fat based cutting oil at one time in it's life. I got the stuff all over my hands and it was the worst smelling, longest lasting **** I've ever had the displeasure of wearing. If I didn't know the definition of rancid before I did it, I do now! It took me days to get that **** and smell off of my hands. I stuck it back together, if I ever get around to restoring the thing I'll have to wear a hazmat suit and rubber gloves to take it apart and clean it. It was a '53, BTW.

 

[mjozefow]

Good call. Permatex anti-seize really will make a HUGE difference.

The reason greased screws stick after many years is that the grease breaks down to semi-solid material. If the screw is cleaned and re-greased on occasion, this will never happen.

The same thing happens to wheel bearings or anything else that is greased that sits for ages.

 

[Even 11]

I use a brake anti squeal lubricant by CRC on mine and it works great. It has teflon and anti sieze in it and you can buy it at any auto parts store. Mine came from Checker/O'reilly. Comes in a white bottle with a brush in the cap for like $10. It has enough in it to last several vises and Brake jobs combined.

-Dane

 

[pfbz]

Redline synthetic assembly lube on my vises.

Great for those sub-zero vise cold starts! Anti-seize is just too messy for me, especially in a non-heat application were it definitely isn't needed.

 

[lipadj46]

Phew! I'm glad this thread is about lubricating a vise. I though the OP has some sort of a lubing fetish and cannot stop

 

[mjozefow]

Another benefit to a lubricated screw: Your vise will squeeze more for a give torque on the handle.

 

[MrJeep]

I think I read someplace that Acme threads shouldn't be lubricated.

 

[JradM]

Does everyone lube their vises?

I noticed on every Youtube vise restoration I watch, the person goes to town lubricating every single surface. I took my main vise apart and did the same recently.

However, I wondered about it. I use mine for all sort of things, including holding things I cut, grind, sand, etc. It didn't take long for the lube on the slide to get pretty dirty. I just wiped it off and didn't bother with re-application (as yet).

I think lubing your screw is different. Even on the Record-style vises, the screw is on the bottom and not directly exposed. Wilton bullet is even better obviously. It's more of a pain to lube, but should stay lubed for longer than the sliding surfaces.

Just made me ponder whether lubing anything other than your screw is a good idea. It does feel great when you do it, but sure doesn't seem to last long.

 

[dutchgray]

I use oil, pretty much any oil will do.

 

[seber]

Acme threads are used for high pressure contact. That is a recipe for gallling. No lube combined with high pressures over time will absolutely destroy those threads. Whatever lube you use should be rated for extreme pressure. Newer Antisieze mostly contains nickel but traditional stuff was aluminum. For lubrication purposes, I would prefer the aluminum version. Moly would also be a good ingredient. I personally don't use white lithium due to it's tendency to dry out and get hard and useless but if you clean the unit every few years it should be fine.

 

[slowtwitch73]

Good grief.. yes lube it.. any grease is better than none.

Reduced wear, tighter vice action.

 

[no704]

I just use PB blaster. Love the smell!

 

[Lucid Moments]

For my Vices I prefer a water based lube. Easier clean up. For my Vises however I use a moly based high pressure grease. Not too particular which one in either case.

 

[fsae0607]

I use moly grease on my Wilton.

Lube your vise! Don't raw dog it.

 

[FMB4]

Lube if you're using your vise strictly for bending or forming. No lube if you're using your vise for holding material that you're cutting, grinding, sanding, or filing.

 

[Gutman]

Flashback to the olden days (more than the 11+ years of the OP):

NEOLUBE - COLLOIDAL GRAPHITE IN ISOPROPANOL​

-a dry film conductive lubricant used extensively at nuclear power generating plants and other nuclear facilities as an anti-seize compound, thread lubricant and for lubricating moving parts and rubbing surfaces. The thinness of the coating, coupled with high lubricity, provides clean long wearing lubrication without redesign of component dimensions.
-resists abrasion and lubricates threaded parts, moving parts and rubbing surfaces. This material allows easier assembly and nondestructive disassembly.
-has excellent radiation resistance and high chemical purity. It does not migrate and is non-freezable.
-provides a non-corrosive dry adherent lubrication for metal parts with limited clearances in applications where control of impurities is required.

Not cheap, but if it's good for Hyman G, it's good for me.

Disclaimer: Have not used it on my vises, but for some reason, I was thinking about it (Neolube) the other day, then this thread was resurrected from 11+ years ago.