jaye944
Banned
at the end of the day; you need to know if the OEM advises to use wet or dry.
Majority (if not all wheel nuts) are DRY.
I have first hand expereince that after I had used coppaslip on the threads they over torquesed them using there adaptor. THis ment either they where cross threaded or jammed on so tight that even on a 4 poster lift, 2 guys and impact tools could not get the nuts off and they had to bust the nuts off.
This screwed up my rear wheel bearing.
I did a test as well, when I got home I tried withy 1 nut dry 1 wet, and the wet one needed MORE for the torque wrnch to click.
I also note now my nuts "skip" on the threads so all all buggered up.
BACK in the day I never did that and only assembled dry.
"my" advise is to NOT put anything on the threads (just making sure there clean) and torque up to the correct setting, and only use coppaslip etc on the mating surfaces to stop the faces cold welding, NOT the lugs nuts or threads
IMHO, do or dont do...sup to you
Majority (if not all wheel nuts) are DRY.
I have first hand expereince that after I had used coppaslip on the threads they over torquesed them using there adaptor. THis ment either they where cross threaded or jammed on so tight that even on a 4 poster lift, 2 guys and impact tools could not get the nuts off and they had to bust the nuts off.
This screwed up my rear wheel bearing.
I did a test as well, when I got home I tried withy 1 nut dry 1 wet, and the wet one needed MORE for the torque wrnch to click.
I also note now my nuts "skip" on the threads so all all buggered up.
BACK in the day I never did that and only assembled dry.
"my" advise is to NOT put anything on the threads (just making sure there clean) and torque up to the correct setting, and only use coppaslip etc on the mating surfaces to stop the faces cold welding, NOT the lugs nuts or threads
IMHO, do or dont do...sup to you
