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lubricating ratchets

Bull

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What really surprises me it that Merk doesn't use KY jelly on his ratchets. Then again, he might use RLL on the inside and KY on the ... never mind I don't think I need to go there. And neither does one of Merk's ratchets....

Now THIS is a clever post! :beer:
 
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mofo62

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I used to use grease until I started breaking ratchets. My Snap- on guy told me that the grease is why they were breaking. Grease can be thick enough to not let the pawl drop all the way into the gear, causing the pawl to ride high up on the thin part of the tooth. I quit greasing the ratchets and I quit breaking them.



Yes my friend


100% true,Grease not for lubricated ratchet
 

sk farmer

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What really surprises me it that Merk doesn't use "astroglide" on his ratchets. Then again, he might use RLL on the inside and KY on the ... never mind I don't think I need to go there. And neither does one of Merk's ratchets....
i think this might be more fitting.
 

06jds377

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I hit an old Stanley round head with some of Mercury Marine's 2-4-C, and it worked really well. I didn't use much because it contains Teflon and is sliiiiiick, just enough. It is an extremely resilient grease that is used mainly in outboards and their drives. Its good stuff. :)

I was going to hit my BR8T with it tonight, but, that didn't go so well for a few parts of the ratchet. :lol_hitti
 

lognom

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May 3, 2009
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Sturtevant Richmont recommends using molybdenum disulfide high pressure grease on the ratcheting mechanism of their torque wrenches.

http://www.srtorque.com/faq7.html

But, I notice that in general ratchet and pawl mfrs. (winches, bike hubs, etc.) say explicitly not to grease pawls, but to oil the pawls instead.

Lloyd
 

06wt

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chicago 434 UNION CARPENTER
Sturtevant Richmont recommends using molybdenum disulfide high pressure grease on the ratcheting mechanism of their torque wrenches.

http://www.srtorque.com/faq7.html

But, I notice that in general ratchet and pawl mfrs. (winches, bike hubs, etc.) say explicitly not to grease pawls, but to oil the pawls instead.

Lloyd

yeah i like moly in my ratchets, but i add ultra slick to thin it out a little
 

chromemoly

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It will get "stringy" if pulled between two surfaces, like when you pull the spout of the bottle away from the surface you had it pressed against while pouring.
Does it also give you a warm tingly sensation when introduced to friction and taste like strawberries? You sure its label says Permatex:bounce:
Since engine assembly lube has a little theme going here, why dont someone try the Royal Purple "MAX-TUFF" assembly lube that costs $16.99 for 8 oz and give it a cool name, like the Purple Jesus of everlasting Ratchet LIFE :thumbup:
 
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Merkava_4

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Yellowish-off white. Like mayo that's been left out a little too long!

Does it look like this?

DSCN3092.jpg


DSCN3093.jpg
 

Merkava_4

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I used to use grease until I started breaking ratchets. My Snap- on guy told me that the grease is why they were breaking. Grease can be thick enough to not let the pawl drop all the way into the gear, causing the pawl to ride high up on the thin part of the tooth. I quit greasing the ratchets and I quit breaking them.


I forgot to respond to this post earlier, so I'm pulling this thread back up. :D

bgott

The conditions you describe above would be very much true with THICK grease, but from my experience using a thin grease like SuperLube, (which is about the thickness of *********** filling) is it tends to squeeze out during use. If I pack it in there and then spin the ratchet around on a socket, the excess immediately starts to squeeze out around the square drive end. I then take the cover plate back off and wipe the accumulated grease off the underside of the cover plate. Reassemble and tighten the screws to full tightness. :thumbup:
 
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nissan_crawler

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If you use grease, you have to use common sense about it. I have never broken a ratchet, and I grease all of mine.

Use synthetic, not some of that wheel bearing grease that you can stand on top of without squishing. Put it on the gear and pawls, then use an acid brush to brush off the excess, just leaving a very light coating across everything. It won't keep the teeth from going together, and it won't ooze out.

If you're breaking ratchets with grease, you have way too much packed in there.
 
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bgott

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The grease I was using was GE silicon, or silicone, I can't remember which, grease. It was a little thicker than white lithium grease.
 

gofastman

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Does it also give you a warm tingly sensation win introduced to friction and taste like strawberries? You sure its label says Permatex:bounce:
Since engine assembly lube has a little theme going here, why dont someone try the Royal Purple "MAX-TUFF" assembly lube that costs $16.99 for 8 oz and give it a cool name, like the Purple Jesus of everlasting Ratchet LIFE :thumbup:

Permatex works better than Max Tuff IME (in ratchets)
 

autoace

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I have always used the red permatex lube, but my Cornwell guy uses Permatex green, synthetic grease (usually used for brake caliper slides) and it works excellent, without as much ooze.
 

gofastman

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I use amsoil synthetic wheel bearing grease, 0 problems, 0 leakage, smooth as can be.
Which product specifically and what NLGI grade?
I have always used the red permatex lube, but my Cornwell guy uses Permatex green, synthetic grease (usually used for brake caliper slides) and it works excellent, without as much ooze.

While those are both excellent products, I have had better luck with the RLL in my ratchets.
 

tjmonsen5

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I recieved a 1/2 inch Craftsman racthet from my grandpa yesterday. I was going to take it back to sears because it wasnt ratcheting very well, and was hard to reverse. The ratchet is about 20 years old. I was bored so i took it completely apart and found dry old grease! It was all crusty. I used my picks and brake cleaner to clean it up, and then let everything soak in ATF for a few hours. I put it back together, now it feels good as new!
 

Bull

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ATF is pure magic. Even if you hadn't opened it up, but just bathed it in ATF, it would have loosened right up.

Thanks God you didn't bring Grampa's ratchet to Sears...do you know what they would have given you in exchange?!

I recieved a 1/2 inch Craftsman racthet from my grandpa yesterday. I was going to take it back to sears because it wasnt ratcheting very well, and was hard to reverse. The ratchet is about 20 years old. I was bored so i took it completely apart and found dry old grease! It was all crusty. I used my picks and brake cleaner to clean it up, and then let everything soak in ATF for a few hours. I put it back together, now it feels good as new!
 

wrenchr

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ATF is pure magic. Even if you hadn't opened it up, but just bathed it in ATF, it would have loosened right up.

Thanks God you didn't bring Grampa's ratchet to Sears...do you know what they would have given you in exchange?!

A small boat anchor!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

AussieDan

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Syracuse, NY
I have a tub of this stuff and was thinking about trying it in the GearWrench 60-tooth set I got for Xmas...
I just tried the Redline Assembly lube in the 3/8 & 1/2" ratchets...initial impression is that it seems to be too thick to work really well. It definitely quieted them down but it didn't feel as though the pawl was engaging as cleanly as it did with the factory lube (more of a clear oil).

The other thing I was thinking about trying is BreakFree CLP (Clean, Lubricate, Protect).
 

tjmonsen5

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I couldnt believe that the reversing switch on my craftsman 3/8 ratchet is made out of plastic!

The 20 year old 1/2 is all metal, and much easier to put back together! The little ball and spring in the 3/8 is very tricky to install!!
 
OP
S

street131

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West Michigan
uggh,it bothers methat the new ratchets reversing switch is made outof plastic. Not sure why is bothers me neither....
 
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