anndel
Well-known member
Most Toyotas I've worked on is 76 lb-ft torque, including Tacos. The one exception is our 1993 Toyota pickup which is torques to 80 lb-ft of torque.
Lug Nut / Stud Torque
- Thread starter _brian_
- Start date
Since others have shared stories, I will, too. My dad told me about the used '68 Barracuda that he bought while in college (early 70s). (Fans of old Mopars will know that the driver's side on pre-71 cars had LH threads on the wheel studs.) Dad had to change a flat tire on the side of the road one time, and after twisting off 2 wheel studs, discovered that there was a mix of LH and RH studs on the same wheel! He said that he found more than one cobble job from the previous owner of that car.
I remember those, always wondered what genius at chyrsler/dodge thought it made a difference
Probably the same idiot engineer that thought it was a good idea to put a sheet meal cap over a lug nut.
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Battery impact and a torque stick = loose wheel , they will be undertorqued
He worked at G.M too.....
cherrybomb
Well-known member
Then went to work at Ford
bubinga
Well-known member
bubinga
Well-known member
bubinga
Well-known member
I had a 67 Dodge Monaco, I did away with the LH studs and lug nuts.
turnthewrench 2.0
Well-known member
+++1
I only had a torque stick because my impact didn't have a mode that stopped when the lug was tight-but-not-tightened, and then I'd finish with a torque wrench. (since then, I've gotten impacts that stop when the fastener is seated, so now it's just regular sockets on an impact with a "stop" mode, then finish with a torque wrench.
I'd rather be a little over than a little under, but the torque spec exists for a reason. Mainly I think it's to troll internet know-it-alls to show themselves by crowing they know better, but ultimately it is serving the purpose of being correct and taking the guesswork out of it.
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Personally, I tighten my log nuts enough so that it's not the rust that's holding them on
If you use a certain torque to tighten them, they need a certain torque to untighten, and that is the same whether or not the threads are dry or lubed (just the internal force changes).
As it was said, they don't do that from the factory or at the service cause it's messy and takes time. Many service techicians/mechanics don't really know why or why not something is done, they usually follow the manual, so through over a century of cars there are countless myths regarding the technical stuff... Some things are just accepted cause they work, most people don't ask themselves why.
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engineer2
Well-known member
They were so bad I had to hammer the socket on the worst 2 lugnuts, then take them to the workbench to pound the lug nut out. Their mom later told me the van had just had a brake job done.
The theory behind the LH Mopar studs was that they were less likely to work loose if they were under-torqued.
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Kscardsfan
Well-known member
I'm too cheap to buy torque sticks anyway, I already have a couple of torque wrenches I don't use enough as is.
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Lucid Moments
Well-known member
For you and in your area I agree. But down here rust just isn't an issue and pad slaps are the rule rather than the exception. You only change the rotors when they are worn down to (or near) the service limits.
Lucid Moments
Well-known member
Torqued to spec or cross threaded, tight is tight.
cherrybomb
Well-known member
I don't remember, but were those Chrysler products with the left hand wheel threads did they have "L"imbossed in the end of the thread or no?It's a ***** getting old
engineer2
Well-known member
Yes, they had an "L" stamped on the ends of the studs.
Did every one have an L?
'ell if I know.
Did every one have an L?
'ell if I know.
joe_pinehill1
Well-known member
Has anyone had problems with Ford swollen nuts? My daughter had a Focus for a few years, all nuts had to be replaced.
oldmachinenut
Well-known member
Pre 65 Buicks, Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles also had left hand thread lug nuts on the left side.
richfinn
Well-known member
Yep, I have a special flip socket for them 18.5mm on one end (missing covers) 19.5mm on the opposite end for swollen covers.
Saves a hell of a lot of hassle doing tyre changes at the roadside
I do not at all either. If you look at manufacturers, those that provide "install directions", it will often include a break in procedure, or bedding procedure. They state clearly that is to help bed the pads with the rotors and cause "warped" rotors, which is caused by uneven brake material that attaches to the rotor. Now, I guess I an trusting their statement, but it sure makes a ton of sense to me than the rotor actually warping.
It is my understanding that you should never use anti-seize because it messes with the torque. If you look at Permatex, and their data sheets for their anti seize products, they state in all caps to not use the product on lug nuts or lug bolts. They do not state why, just a very clear "do not so this" warning. If you are applying to caps, I would not see this issue, just on the bolt-nut joint, or the bolt-hub joint.
I will also admit that I used to do this, apply anti seize. I no longer do. I never had any issues, until ironically, I started to use a torque wrench. What happened falls in line with my assumption, because the lug nuts, torqued properly, started to come loose. I increased the torque used by approx 20 ft-lb and never came loose again. I have since not used it and clean it off of all I do, and also never since had this issue.
I won't say it didn't happen, but this is very odd. If you tighten until you have 90ft-lb resistance, then you'll have the same (even a bit more) resistance against untightening. Whether dry or lubed. Lube does decrease friction, but by tightening to a torque value you're essentially tightening until you reach the same friction every time, that's what a torque wrench measures. The "problem" is that when lubed, that friction means you're pulling on the stud with the nut with about 20-30% more force (so you'd normally even need to decrease the torque to not overtighten the stud).
I have never experienced my lug nuts untightening and I swap wheels on multiple vehicles every winter.
That is the one and only time that has ever happened to me. Otherwise, never had any issues with them loosening. I would say in all the years, 60% of the wheels I have put on a car have been without use of torque wrench or torque sticks. Either by hand with breaker bar or using an impact. I will note though... I think before I do things, so I know better to not use a 3/4 or 1 inch drive impact, and not to go all out with a powerful 1/2 drive impact.
In the time this happened, I was able to confirm the torque of all that had not loosened were at 90 foot pounds as per spec. They were all tightened at the same time, one after one, so the chances of there being an issue of variance is low. They also removed quite easily, but I always find fasteners assembled with anti seize loosen far easier, so I cannot really make a solid observation from that.
bubinga
Well-known member
I wish they made that 18.5 in a regular deep impact socket.Yep, I have a special flip socket for them 18.5mm on one end (missing covers) 19.5mm on the opposite end for swollen covers.
Saves a hell of a lot of hassle doing tyre changes at the roadside
Unless my Tekton deep I'm using right now is slightly oversize,
dnschmidt
Well-known member
NOW THAT WAS COLD!! Accurate but cold.
65ranchero
Well-known member
Very common with 2ply lug nuts there was a failed class action suit about that.
My 2011 F150 had them and I just ordered one piece nut sets and used various sockets to remove
I dont think Tekton does anything like that. I know that CTA, Grey Pneumatic, ARES and a few others have the 1/2 sizes, but at least here in the US (non tool trucker user), they are still somewhat rare. Even the sets are somewhat mismatched, most of them including some duplicate sizes. I would love to see a full set, flip socket, regular size on one side and the respective 1/2 size on the other. I understand though... professionals tend to like their tools consolidated, one tool to cover two common uses.
richfinn
Well-known member
I like having both sizes in one socket to be honest, as usually I'm dealing with a mixture of swollen lugs and missing caps, it works really well
There's a brand called CTA that might sell something similar in the USA I believe
bubinga
Well-known member
No, that would be a good idea
