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Lug nut thread lubrication - what do you use?

roc_on_the_rocks

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I don't like my lug nut threads dry/rusted and that grab/go/grab/go feel whether you're torqueing or losing lug nuts. I typically use a drop of motor oil, or even anti-seize compound... haven't lost a wheel in forty years.

So.. what do the GJ's say?

Have a good day!
 
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Bert_

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I keep a mix of atf and motor oil for stuff like this. A drop is enough, lightly lubed threads a best.
 

22george

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Wouldn't hurt to put anti-seize on the mating surface between your rim and rotor/drum also
 

unslow1

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Wouldn't hurt to put anti-seize on the mating surface between your rim and rotor/drum also

I have to do that on my Toyota or the next time I have to remove them with a torch.

Usually oil on lugnuts but I have used anti-seize before.
 

PCustoms

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Since everything around here likes to corrode together after a few winters I've been using a little antisieze on most fasteners the 1st time I break them loose.

Makes routine service a lot easier after 10 winters.
 

428PI

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I hate anti seize on lug nuts. Creates such a mess (I've been a mechanic for 40 years). If they need lubed I put a small drop of engine oil on them.
 

Bogie1632

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Antiseize on the mating surfaces, sparingly. After removal everything gets a wire brush. Exceedingly rare that I have corrosion between tire rotations or other needs for wheel removal and never have a lug or wheel stick.

V/R
Bogie
 

lis2323

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Always used anti.seize compound on the farm for 60 years. No idea why but for some reason the advice back then was not to use oil.


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Jagmandave

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I was always told - for over 50 years now - that threads are supposed to be clean and dry.

It's not a matter of the lube causing the nut to loosen as much as over-torquing due to the lubricant on the threads.

I clean them up with a wire brush and put them together dry and clean.
 

Bert_

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Lightly lubed is good.

Where's sberry when you need him? He's been all over this debate a few times.
 

MikeF2316

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I read that the threads should be clean and dry. But none of the literature mentions what happens to those lovely clean, dry threads when exposed to salt and snow, and what happens to clamping force. So I put a little anti-sieze on them to keep them corrosion free.
 
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Ralf11

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I was always told - for over 50 years now - that threads are supposed to be clean and dry.

It's not a matter of the lube causing the nut to loosen as much as over-torquing due to the lubricant on the threads.

I clean them up with a wire brush and put them together dry and clean.

what does Jag. say?

Porsche is very specific about their old 911s & I do what they say - anti-seize on threads and ball contact surface, IIRC
 

jayoldschool

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Same reply every time this is asked: nothing. Lug nuts are spec'd by the OEM to be installed clean and dry. Using a lube or anti seize means you are over-torquing. Clean them, use nothing on them.
 

PCustoms

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Same reply every time this is asked: nothing. Lug nuts are spec'd by the OEM to be installed clean and dry. Using a lube or anti seize means you are over-torquing. Clean them, use nothing on them.

No.

It just means you need to understand what you are doing and reduce torque accordingly.
 

Daniel Dudley

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what does Jag. say?

Porsche is very specific about their old 911s & I do what they say - anti-seize on threads and ball contact surface, IIRC

When it comes to anti seize on wheel studs, a very little can go a long way.

Do not put anti- seize on ball or taper surfaces, you can crack an aluminum wheel. People have done this with Porsche rims, and it is all over the forums. Use a very light coating on the threads only. If you have hubcentric rims, you can put some on the surfaces of the rim where the rim meets the raised hub. Do not put anti seize on the flat of the rim where it hits the flat of the hub.

People think the studs hold the wheel on, but if you lube the hub, you can slide the rim on the hub and shear the studs off. Friction between the wheel and the hub increases the shear strength.
 

toyotadriver

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I use WD40 Specialist rust preventative. It’s good stuff to prevent rust and corrosion. I also use it on the rotor to hub surfaces. Much better than beating parts off later.
 

Ralf11

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Do not put anti- seize on ball or taper surfaces. People have done this with Porsche rims, and it is all over the forums. Use a very light coating on the threads only.

Please refer to Porsche Technical Bulletin 4-8506.

I don't care what is on a "forum" - if you have an update to Porsche Technical Bulletin 4-8506, or some engineering testing to refute it then post that.
 

kbs2244

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ever since I lost a wheel with a car full of kids I do not oil the lug nuts or studs
a little effort to loosen them is a small price to pay considering the alternative
 

MINIz guy

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Please refer to Porsche Technical Bulletin 4-8506.

I don't care what is on a "forum" - if you have an update to Porsche Technical Bulletin 4-8506, or some engineering testing to refute it then post that.

Would that be because of Porsche using aluminum lug nuts and the dissimilar metals would cause corrosion?
 

Jlbc212

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Dec 7, 2013
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I've been using anti-seize and a torque wrench for years without any issues. i never let anyone else service the lug-nuts or wheels on any of my vehicles. I've worked on too many cars and trucks that had been previously "professionally" serviced where I had to use a breaker bar with an extension to break lug-nuts loose.
 

tarmy

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Dry...with a good torque wrench to spec. I am in a non rust area...so that is not an issue here.
 

jsaw

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Geneva, N.Y.
In the salt belt, if you don't use something, the threads rust. Next they seize and the threads get all torn up. So much for clean dry threads. I usually use a drop of oil. My personal vehicles get a light coat of anti seize. You do have to be careful. I once had the torque wrench set at 100 ft lbs and snapped a stud off
 

Muncie

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Oregon
I use anti sieze and reduce the torque on them by the K factor that is on the bottle. That's why the manufacturer gives you that information.
 
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