Lug ripper

[Jweebothee]

http://www.lugripper.com/ anyone ever heard of or use this? Just came up as an ad on the book of face,

 

[Musicinabottle]

Too cool. I've always just ramped up the torque on the impact and hammer it until the lug breaks then beat the lug out with a punch, but that looks pretty effective too. Wonder how much? It's not a snap on so might actually be affordable....

 

[gdocktor3]

I saw it on fb also. $299 is a lot imo

 

[Musicinabottle]

I saw it on fb also. $299 is a lot imo

No kidding? I can't imagine thems flying off the shelves.

 

[L.Cheapo]

I think its a neat idea. And if it really gets seized/stripped lugs off in 10-15 minutes, its well worth it for a shop.

 

[Bcom]

The video kinda skipped over showing the tool actually working completely. I would have gladly watched the entire drill process but they cut out alot of the film so who knows if it really works or not

 

[gdocktor3]

No kidding? I can't imagine thems flying off the shelves.

That's what I saw on the comments of fb.

 

[gungatim]

I just use the $8 version at AutoZone...it was recommended by a tire store tech when I called to see if they had the special vw locking lug nut tool after torching one off...it's what they use at the tire store and I ended up buying both sizes and they have worked on several other cars from Lincoln's to neon's...$300 seems a bit much when cheaper tools work just as well.

 

[nickz]

I was going to post a new thread about this tool but desided to search and found one already alive.
It works.
I got a better deal buying it with the air powered drill,but used my miwakee electric torque monster drill instead. Way better,slow and steady worked well for me.
It worked very well for me.
I had basically destroyed the nut,heat,chiesel etc. The sleeve ,that comes with , I was afraid would not work,there was not much left.
If I am not mistaken but it seems that the cutter will centre itself on the stud, which is harder steel.
Here's a couple

 

[stonesg]

"... highly desgined..."

When the marketing copy is that bad I cover my wallet.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Aren't dodge vehicle notorious for how bad their lug nuts are to remove when they get old? They have like a hard chrome cap over soft metal, and when the cap pops off, the remnants of the lug are next to impossible to remove without carefully cutting/slicing them off. Having heard of a few people struggle with this for hours (pro techs too, not home gamers), $300 might be a small price to pay if you regularly work on these lug nut types. No personal experience, but I've been told it's a horrible job when they go bad...

 

[nickz]

Heck I payed less than 200 Canadian it was well worth it.
I used wd instead of water.
I would not use the air drill.

 

[L.Cheapo]

Aren't dodge vehicle notorious for how bad their lug nuts are to remove when they get old? They have like a hard chrome cap over soft metal, and when the cap pops off, the remnants of the lug are next to impossible to remove without carefully cutting/slicing them off. Having heard of a few people struggle with this for hours (pro techs too, not home gamers), $300 might be a small price to pay if you regularly work on these lug nut types. No personal experience, but I've been told it's a horrible job when they go bad...

Yes and no.

The aftermarket lug nuts are junk. I didn't get a year out of them after ruining the OE ones trying to remove them after a 300lb gorilla at a tire shop "torqued" them, only on one wheel. The other three wheels still wear all of their original lugs. This is a 20 year old Ram I bought new, living its entire life on/near the beach and in the rust belt. The chrome cap is just a thin pressed piece of sheetmetal.

Under the chrome cap is...a plain lug nut. IIRC, an 18.5mm socket does the trick. Maybe it was 18. It's six sided like any other hex nut, its just ugly. You remove it like any other lug nut at that point. If its seized, then its seized or galled, and any nut can do that.

We have 3 Chrysler products in the fleet, from 98-15, and I don't think I've replaced more than 1 lug nut in the last 5 years. That was right after a visit to the tire shop. Hmm.

I was a bit short on time so I couldnt REALLY look at them, but the lugs on my old man's Ranger looked awfully similar last time I took them off.

 

[joe_padavano]

"... highly desgined..."

When the marketing copy is that bad I cover my wallet.

Beat me to it. That was where I stopped reading.

So it's a rotabroach with an outer sleeve to protect the wheel. You can buy this one (made in US) without the sleeve for $37 on Amazon.

 

[LXCam]

It's a great idea that's for sure. But for anyone that has either a little machining or heavy steel Fab experience will see they can make this happen for under a hundred pretty easy. I'm sure this guy is charging accordingly but he needs to rethink his suppliers so get his price more in line with reality, IMO

Beat me to it. That was where I stopped reading.

So it's a rotabroach with an outer sleeve to protect the wheel. You can buy this one (made in US) without the sleeve for $37 on Amazon.

Glad I happen to have the right broaches already .

 

[joe_padavano]

I suspect a significant part of the selling price is liability insurance.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I almost brought that more than a couple times. Well worth the money IMO. Grinding out a nut with a burr ***** ***.

Of course this is gj everything is over priced unless it’s from HF

 

[stonesg]

...and if the stud is going to be destroyed anyway, might as well just hit it with the chemical wrench or cutoff wheel and be done with it.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I almost brought that more than a couple times. Well worth the money IMO. Grinding out a nut with a burr ***** ***.

Of course this is gj everything is over priced unless it’s from HF

I started just drilling them out with my norseman bits. Better than the torch, much less damage, just as fast.



Once someone has rounded it into a cone, use a punch to crush down the chrome cap (if applicable), lots of cutting oil and ALL of the pressure. Hammer on a socket once you're most of the way to the seat of the nut, and twist it off. Basically, you're just drilling through the stud until man power can snap off what's left. 3-5 minutes of drilling per lug tops. I charge RR stud, plus $50 or so, to cover drill bit wear/breakage.

 

[pepi]

I think its a neat idea. And if it really gets seized/stripped lugs off in 10-15 minutes, its well worth it for a shop.

I agree, a shop would need that, and a good solution, worth the $$$.

 

[WhiffySpark]

...and if the stud is going to be destroyed anyway, might as well just hit it with the chemical wrench or cutoff wheel and be done with it.

Try that with recessed lug nuts.

Try that on a aluminum wheel

It doesn’t work without destroying something else.

 

[WhiffySpark]

I started just drilling them out with my norseman bits. Better than the torch, much less damage, just as fast.



Once someone has rounded it into a cone, use a punch to crush down the chrome cap (if applicable), lots of cutting oil and ALL of the pressure. Hammer on a socket once you're most of the way to the seat of the nut, and twist it off. Basically, you're just drilling through the stud until man power can snap off what's left. 3-5 minutes of drilling per lug tops. I charge RR stud, plus $50 or so, to cover drill bit wear/breakage.

We charged .5 hour at least.

I really hate fing with them. They would try to get me to do it for free if they brought tires or something. Lol nope

 

[stonesg]

Try that with recessed lug nuts.

Try that on a aluminum wheel

It doesn’t work without destroying something else.

Good point... My head was still thinking regular old lug nuts....

Still.... the regular cutter for 40some bucks makes more sense than this over hyped/price tool.

 

[WhiffySpark]

Good point... My head was still thinking regular old lug nuts....

Still.... the regular cutter for 40some bucks makes more sense than this over hyped/price tool.

Not if that Sleeve saves your $300 rim from damage

 

[apollo11]

The video kinda skipped over showing the tool actually working completely. I would have gladly watched the entire drill process but they cut out alot of the film so who knows if it really works or not

 

[tjmonsen5]

The lug ripper has carbide blades, I don't think a rotabroach does. At least I can't see any in that big picture posted above.

 

[Skin]

Aren't dodge vehicle notorious for how bad their lug nuts are to remove when they get old? They have like a hard chrome cap over soft metal, and when the cap pops off, the remnants of the lug are next to impossible to remove without carefully cutting/slicing them off. Having heard of a few people struggle with this for hours (pro techs too, not home gamers), $300 might be a small price to pay if you regularly work on these lug nut types. No personal experience, but I've been told it's a horrible job when they go bad...

They make intermediate sizes for this.

https://store.snapon.com/Lug-Nut-Sockets-Lug-Nut-Removal-Socket-Blue-Point--P648104.aspx

 

[rustbucket5]

always someone who claims any price is way too much for a certain tool. i bet you also want usa made tools and for them to last 25 years too right? grow up and learn how a business works, you cant sell something for what it costs to make it and stay in business. 300$ for a quality tool that turns 1 hour job into a 10 minute job with almost no risk of collateral damage is inline with what it is. we had a minivan with a frozen lug that took 2 hours to get off.

 

[markw365]

Looks like about a 230-240 street price. Well worth it to keep from screwing up a customers wheel and make it a quick job. Spinning lugs are a pain, you can drill them but you have to hold them. If they're recessed it becomes easier to damage a wheel. This tool looks quality, and it looks to be able to save time.

 

[Shadowdog500]

Yes and no.

The aftermarket lug nuts are junk. I didn't get a year out of them after ruining the OE ones trying to remove them after a 300lb gorilla at a tire shop "torqued" them, only on one wheel. The other three wheels still wear all of their original lugs. This is a 20 year old Ram I bought new, living its entire life on/near the beach and in the rust belt. The chrome cap is just a thin pressed piece of sheetmetal.

Under the chrome cap is...a plain lug nut. IIRC, an 18.5mm socket does the trick. Maybe it was 18. It's six sided like any other hex nut, its just ugly. You remove it like any other lug nut at that point. If its seized, then its seized or galled, and any nut can do that.

We have 3 Chrysler products in the fleet, from 98-15, and I don't think I've replaced more than 1 lug nut in the last 5 years. That was right after a visit to the tire shop. Hmm.

I was a bit short on time so I couldnt REALLY look at them, but the lugs on my old man's Ranger looked awfully similar last time I took them off.

+1, Once the cap is off an 18mm will work just fine. If you look on ebay you can get full sets of used factory lug nuts that look brand new pretty cheap. The custom shops sell the factory lug nuts and rims after they swap them out for custom stuff. I think I paid $25 or $30 for a full set that looked brand new. Chrystler wants like $25 for a new one so I bet they don't sell many.

Chris

 

[theoldwizard1]

I still say, a good punch and left handed drill bit.

 

[jimsahm]

I spun the stud in one of my wheels and the lug and stud now spin freely...also probably destroyed the hole in the axle hub where the splines are seated. So, I am going to try to use this to both hold the lug and drill out the center. I do think you could rig something up to do the same thing, but this is already as people say ..."overly designed"... to do that... I will let you know my experience once complete... Yes, it is a bit pricey!!

-Jim

 

[APEowner]

That's pretty clever. If I were still working as a tech I'd probably buy one. A rotabroach may be the same cutter but it's the guide and clamp that makes the tool. You're not going to run a rotabroach in a hand drill without damaging something.

 

[moreover]

Seems to me if you manufacture the rotabroach specifically for this product... Why not make it left hand cutting. There's a good chance the concentrated heat cutting produces might back the lug off without having to drill/mill the whole lug depth.

 

[jimsahm]

Well, it worked fine. Is a little expensive and the only change I would suggest is that the "sized" collets or "clamps" are fluted to the lug size. They are round and really do not grab that well. On a few higher torque twists with the drill, it spun the collet off of the lug as there is no way for the round clamp to truly get a good grip on the lug... It did work though. This was the "Lug Ripper II" so I am not sure what the difference was with the first version.

I have a video of it working that I will post.

-Jim

 

[jimsahm]

Here is the video I shot using the tool for my 1998 Jeep TJ.

It works, but is expensive and in some cases the collet slips off of the lug. It does work though! NO rim damage!!

Anyway, I hope this helps someone out with getting a spun lug stud and nut off their hub!

-Jim

 

[joecon]

I have seen it used, It works well. I would buy one if I was still in the field.

 

[Bessy]

Did he misspeak or does it actually use a 20mm wrench? An odd thing to pick out of the video, maybe, but 20mm is not a common size in many kits, no?

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

 

[xjfish]

Looks good to me. Last time I had to borrow out my matco gear reduction air saw to saw off the spinning wheel studs from behind the wheel...

 

[jimsahm]

I didn't think I said what size in the video...the Collet/vice was 3/4". I checked and I was holding the clamp with a 21mm although 13/16" also fits.... I think the actual dimension on the clamp is 20mm though...as 21mm has play in it... Better solution might be adjustable wrench on it.