Lug Stud Wheel Hangers.

[2ndGearRubber]

I have no idea what these are actually called, but I'm talking about the threaded pins that let you hang a wheel on the hub while you start the other lug bolts.



Lisle 14150 is what I'm thinking about, although LTI makes some plastic/nylon/whatever ones which don't thread in. Apparently they're strong enough to just stick in the hub and support the wheel with no threads. I don't work on nearly any promasters with the weird M16 thread pitch. Am I missing any good options here?

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-14150-Wheel-Pilot-Master/dp/B07TJ1QQDT/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.amazon.com/LTI-TOOLS-Alignment-LT465-Compatible/dp/B0BXG3SXXQ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Fedwrench]

KTC Wheel Lug Bolt Alignment Pin (AH4-14150)

Shop the world's finest tools from elite brands like PB Swiss, nepros, KTC, KNIPEX, Ko-ken, KEIBA and more..

drpd.cc

I like this one from KTC. we only have a couple of vehicles in the fleet that use wheel bolts.

 

[BlindViper]

I always just find a long bolt that is the right thread pitch and cut off the head.

 

[Zewnten]

I call them alignment dowels and like blindviper I just cut the head off a long enough bolt. Sometimes I cut a slit for a flathead screwdriver in case in binds

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I always just find a long bolt that is the right thread pitch and cut off the head.

I call them alignment dowels and like blindviper I just cut the head off a long enough bolt. Sometimes I cut a slit for a flathead screwdriver in case in binds

If the LTI set works, it's an M12 and M14 dowel with no threads, the $9 would probably be cheaper than buying bolts.

 

[Snapped-off]

I've got the Lisle set for my unreliable Euros. They work good.

 

[65k10]

I call them alignment dowels and like blindviper I just cut the head off a long enough bolt. Sometimes I cut a slit for a flathead screwdriver in case in binds

That's exactly what I did. I wanted one for mounting rims on some farm equipment which use an inch pattern wheel bolt (I think it's 9/16-18) and could not find a commercially made one.

 

[AJHD]

I had the Lisle version. Used them a few times. They worked.

But HF has a cheaper option.

https://www.harborfreight.com/wheel-hanger-stud-pilot-pins-58146.html

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I had the Lisle version. Used them a few times. They worked.

But HF has a cheaper option.

https://www.harborfreight.com/wheel-hanger-stud-pilot-pins-58146.html

I've read reports of issues with those sets and similar generic colored sets on amazon. The shank is a larger diameter than the threaded section, so you can screw it in and not be able to remove the wheel. Only on some makes/models based on wheel design.

 

[chris142]

I've read reports of issues with those sets and similar generic colored sets on amazon. The shank is a larger diameter than the threaded section, so you can screw it in and not be able to remove the wheel. Only on some makes/models based on wheel design.

No issues like that with my set and I work at a European only shop

 

[noid]

I thought I wanted the threaded style, but after frequent use got just as annoying with threading them on as I did with trying to align the wheel without them.

The OEM BMW hangar (M12 size) works so much better, just pushes in and pulls out.





There might be an OEM to the tool that has other sizes.

 

[landrover bodger]

i have a few of those mostly taken from scrap cars

 

[Wrench97]

I've read reports of issues with those sets and similar generic colored sets on amazon. The shank is a larger diameter than the threaded section, so you can screw it in and not be able to remove the wheel. Only on some makes/models based on wheel design.

I have that issue with my old Lisle set on mopar versions, pin screws in but the wheel won't pass over the pin, the promaster city units have a pretty deep hub and the drum bolt acts as a pin so that makes them easier to do

 

[Steve_P]

I don't have any vehicles that use these, but for the "find a bolt...." crowd, where are you going to find M14 fine and extra fine thread bolts locally? M14 isn't a standard size anymore, especially fine thread. My Ace hardware doesn't have any metric fine thread bolts, and by the time you buy them from McMaster, you've already spent more than the Lisle set.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Only problem is if the hub rotates while you're fumbling around, the wheel *will* fall off.

I have one for Volvo. Never use it anymore. Much quicker, easier to put the wheel on the hub, put a screw in the hole, and give the wheel a rotate. The screw will find a hole.

-Ryan

 

[AEAdam]

I haven’t tried plastic. Not sure about them.

Some wheels are pretty heavy. I have a single aluminum one from my Porsche days. Probably bought it from summit racing or some such.

Would not recommend steel bolt. I kinda hang and slide the rim on the pin. You don’t want to scratch the rim. Depending on what you are working on, the owner might give a ****. I think I’d find the aluminum ones.

Or: maybe there’s a retired GJ member with lots of time and a lathe. You could make these also out of brass. Maybe a brass one and an aluminum one for the 2 most common sizes. I guess threaded black acetal would be ok too. If you needed a third. If there was enough interest someone here could make a run of them. Sorry I can’t do it at the moment because this would be a fun job.

In a past life I made stuff not unlike this for my friends on the internet. You’d be tempted to think: “who the F wants this besides me?” I set up an online shopping cart and sold $40,000 of products in 2 weeks. Quit my day job. Due to circumstances beyond my control, I went back to work. My side hustle was fine. I just turned down the burner.

I don’t know if it’s the same in other countries, I suspect not. But my demographic here in the US spend kinda serious cash on hobbies like car and truck repair, vintage tractors, of course woodworking and guns. Gun accessories is a huge affluent market. I think elsewhere men in their 60s are enjoying retirement, traveling, playing golf or tennis or something. Guys like me are working with their hands, fixing, building.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Only problem is if the hub rotates while you're fumbling around, the wheel *will* fall off.

I have one for Volvo. Never use it anymore. Much quicker, easier to put the wheel on the hub, put a screw in the hole, and give the wheel a rotate. The screw will find a hole.

-Ryan

I normally just stick a bolt and protective socket in the hole, flip it up on my knee and line it up. Very fast.

I tweaked my back and was slowed down for around a week, and it reminded me this would be nice to have.

 

[Steve_P]

Dunno about the debate for not using these. If you chip the paint off of a $600 Brembo, whatever, caliper, you are going to hear about it- even if you don't work in a Porsche dealership.

I have studs on my Evo hubs. I still bought the female posts like these because the rims are a close fit to the Brembo calipers.

Debates like this remind me of the "you don't need caliper/pad push back tools, I use a Channellock" threads. Sure, and if you do, you don't service any modern vehicles with fancy coated calipers. It's like saying, "I don't need those fancy ratcheting wrenches to work on my 1986 Chevy truck"

 

[Snip's]

I have the Lisle 14150 kit...
Comes with 4 metric sizes... they work well on my MINI Cooper and Cayman...
Helps with setting the wheel in place without chipping the paint on the calipers...

 

[Kurt4440]

I normally just stick a bolt and protective socket in the hole, flip it up on my knee and line it up. Very fast.

I tweaked my back and was slowed down for around a week, and it reminded me this would be nice to have.

Well it happens to all of us, eventually. I purchased this made in Taiwan set in 2021, it cost $40 and I have no complaints. The slip in plastic set looks worth the $9 gamble.

 

[jsaw]

I made some out of an old inner tie rod end with the correct size.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Well it happens to all of us, eventually. I purchased this made in Taiwan set in 2021, it cost $40 and I have no complaints. The slip in plastic set looks worth the $9 gamble.

My only concern with the plastic ones is weight. I'm sure a 328 or mini cooper would be fine. An 80lb run-flat/21" wheel combo on a Benz maybe not.

 

[Kurt4440]

My only concern with the plastic ones is weight. I'm sure a 328 or mini cooper would be fine. An 80lb run-flat/21" wheel combo on a Benz maybe not.

Sorry, you must have me confused with a new member, buy both items.
I am going to try the plastic set and I don't want you to fall behind in the race for the most tools.

 

[alfazer]

These make the job easy...

Wheel Fitting & Alignment Tool | AK7500 | Sealey

Lifetime Guarantee - Assists with the lifting and locating of road wheels on to vehicle hubs, intended to be used where there is no access to a vehicle lift.

www.sealey.co.uk

 

[39CAMC]

Well it happens to all of us, eventually. I purchased this made in Taiwan set in 2021, it cost $40 and I have no complaints. The slip in plastic set looks worth the $9 gamble.

I have had this set since about 2018 and it works great. They get a lot of use. That said, since the Lisle is about the same price, I will probably replace the OEM tools ones eventually with the Lisle. I have bent one of the OEM Tools ones at the undercut.

I can't picture the plastic ones standing up to use very often. Perfect for happy homeowner who switches from his summers to winters and that's it.

DaveW

 

[Yarpo]

I've also had the OEM tools set since 2019, working in euro specific shops since. No issues.
I only use them on select wheels tho, or jobs. Anything heavy is specifically when I use them, cause I'm not trying to hold 21s/22s.

 

[andys]

I have tire hangers on each arm of the lift. Grabbing the wheel and one lug nut at chest height makes lining it up easier. I hold it close to my chest with my arms in an L shape and lean the whole thing up to the hub. I can shuffle the wheel around to line up the hole and then start one bolt while my body weight keeps it in place.

I have had a set of hangers for at least 15 years and I can't tell you the last time I used them. Anymore, I don't pick up wheels. I will lower the lift and hook the tires onto the hanger and lift them all up to working height before I bend, lift and spin them on my knee. I don't work against the clock, so that's not a concern, and I do other things efficiently enough to earn back the few extra minutes.

This doesn't help you directly but it's another way to approach the same situation.

 

[ChevyEFI]

CTA Tools 5465. (Also in their 8865 set)
Or partially threaded bolts.
Or all thread.

 

[mike93lx]

My only concern with the plastic ones is weight. I'm sure a 328 or mini cooper would be fine. An 80lb run-flat/21" wheel combo on a Benz maybe not.

If you have a lift, why are you picking up 80lb wheel and tire combos at all?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

If you have a lift, why are you picking up 80lb wheel and tire combos at all?

How else do I get them off the ground, to put them on the vehicle? Pretty standard industry practice. Grab by the spokes, flip it up to your waist, install. Keeps you back in a straight line the whole time, only real load is the erector muscles.

Even the kids who try to bend their backs at 90 degrees and putz around with the lift 1" of the ground find that is much worse on their back in addition to being a massive PITA to get the wheel on the studs.

 

[mike93lx]

How else do I get them off the ground, to put them on the vehicle? Pretty standard industry practice. Grab by the spokes, flip it up to your waist, install. Keeps you back in a straight line the whole time, only real load is the erector muscles.

Even the kids who try to bend their backs at 90 degrees and putz around with the lift 1" of the ground find that is much worse on their back in addition to being a massive PITA to get the wheel on the studs.

Jacking Wheel dollies?

You say it's no big deal but didn't this whole thread start because of a back injury?

Pretty standard industry practice doesn't make it good for your body. People do lots of bad things frequently based on the need for getting things done quickly.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Jacking Wheel dollies?

You say it's no big deal but didn't this whole thread start because of a back injury?

Pretty standard industry practice doesn't make it good for your body. People do lots of bad things frequently based on the need for getting things done quickly.

Are you buying it? LOL.

Those things, that I've seen, get the wheel like 3" off the ground. Proper chest levels ones are sold, for $$$$$. No back injury I've ever had is from lifting a wheel. It's all from being bent over 90 degrees for hours and hours.

At the end of the day, sometimes I reach, yank, lift, and generally use my body.

EDIT: honestly our lifts are so close together you probably could not even use one.

 

[mike93lx]

Are you buying it? LOL.

Those things, that I've seen, get the wheel like 3" off the ground. Proper chest levels ones are sold, for $$$$$. No back injury I've ever had is from lifting a wheel. It's all from being bent over 90 degrees for hours and hours.

At the end of the day, sometimes I reach, yank, lift, and generally use my body.

EDIT: honestly our lifts are so close together you probably could not even use one.

Ok. Just trying to offer an outside perspective.

Lifting 80lb wheels will hurt you at some point

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Ok. Just trying to offer an outside perspective.

Lifting 80lb wheels will hurt you at some point

I'm with you, it just isn't reasonable in the reality of how many shops are laid out.

Some lift posts as so close together you can't even walk between them, have to turn you body sideways. If you and I work next to each other, you can't work on the RF wheel if I'm working on the LF, no room to move. Certain jobs can't be done in certain bays, walls and other lifts interfere.

Luckily we have few customers with those vehicles, and I'm usually not working on them. Proper lifting technique protects you pretty well. The only time it hurts my back is if Im already hurt. Thankfully this is only the 2nd time its happened to me.

 

[richfinn]

I'm with you, it just isn't reasonable in the reality of how many shops are laid out.

Some lift posts as so close together you can't even walk between them, have to turn you body sideways. If you and I work next to each other, you can't work on the RF wheel if I'm working on the LF, no room to move. Certain jobs can't be done in certain bays, walls and other lifts interfere.

Luckily we have few customers with those vehicles, and I'm usually not working on them. Proper lifting technique protects you pretty well. The only time it hurts my back is if Im already hurt. Thankfully this is only the 2nd time its happened to me.

I started gently warming up with stretching/core stability exercises (taught to me by a physio) before starting work many years ago after a back injury.

It definitely helps prevent injury and offers some protection along with good manual handling techniques.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I started gently warming up with stretching/core stability exercises (taught to me by a physio) before starting work many years ago after a back injury.

It definitely helps prevent injury and offers some protection along with good manual handling techniques.

100%. Stretching and physical movement is key. The tighter you get the easier it is to strain something.

 

[Wrench97]

How else do I get them off the ground, to put them on the vehicle? Pretty standard industry practice. Grab by the spokes, flip it up to your waist, install. Keeps you back in a straight line the whole time, only real load is the erector muscles.

Even the kids who try to bend their backs at 90 degrees and putz around with the lift 1" of the ground find that is much worse on their back in addition to being a massive PITA to get the wheel on the studs.

I started using 35 gal/ 120lb grease keg drums to set tires on, they double as trash cans.

 

[M635_Guy]

I thought I wanted the threaded style, but after frequent use got just as annoying with threading them on as I did with trying to align the wheel without them.

The OEM BMW hangar (M12 size) works so much better, just pushes in and pulls out.





There might be an OEM to the tool that has other sizes.

I continue to forget I have these

 

[M635_Guy]

KTC Wheel Lug Bolt Alignment Pin (AH4-14150)

Shop the world's finest tools from elite brands like PB Swiss, nepros, KTC, KNIPEX, Ko-ken, KEIBA and more..

drpd.cc

I like this one from KTC. we only have a couple of vehicles in the fleet that use wheel bolts.

That's a pretty nice-looking solution.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I started using 35 gal/ 120lb grease keg drums to set tires on, they double as trash cans.

That would be nice if we had the room. Racks are about as narrow as they go, I can rarely get the front arms on an asymmetric lift much beyond the centerline of the posts, inherently quite tail heavy. My pelvis wouldn't fit out the door, and I'm 6'2 190lb so I should fit most anywhere. Some doors I wouldn't be able to open enough to even see the ground.


I like the idea of storing the wheels at chest level, but it simply doesn't work with the space constraints. Would be nice. Much safer to keep them at chest height so your back is straight during any interaction rather than playing around on the ground with your back bent. That's what made me thing about these hangers/studs/posts, they would keep my arms and back in line while installing the wheel rather than me standing on one leg supporting the wheel with my other leg. Probably tilts my pelvis which then I compensate for with my lower back.