Lukat Fix It - any tried it?

[seedtime]

I have a 30+ year old factory paint job. It is still very nice, but has areas of clear-cost oxidation but no peeling yet. This car is garage stored, so I’m willing to jeopardize a bit more clear-coat removal for some shine. I have no automotive ‘detail’ experience other than occasional sponge and soap. I don’t own a polisher and would prefer not to at this time. So I am thinking about going the good-olde elbow grease route. This Lukat seems almost to good to be true.


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[CJM8515]

nothing will fix that but stripping off the clear and putting new one. you can try and wet sand to maybe make it slightly better but thats it

 

[Copymutt]

That looks pretty deep. May not work out.
I would give it a go were it mine. But w/ an orbital sander/polisher as that would be a superior method. They are cheap at HF.

 

[seedtime]

I picked up a polisher and some foam pads from HF as suggested. I also bought a deck lid from a guy 1 hour away for $10. Similar paint, era, but in a whole lot worse condition. My new plan is to get some experience on the donor paint first with a standard compound and wax, then experiment with the Lukat elixir and compare the two.


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[warrens]

Keep us posted. I'm curious about that Lukat product.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Nothing is going to bring back that clearcoat in the OP's post. That clear is dead and white because it is lifting/flaking off. You can see the base in the middle of the pic. Once a modern base clear systems get to this point there is no return. Urethane clears don't oxidize they simply thin from UV light exposure, marginal paint millage from the factory, buffing etc. Once it gets too thin, it starts to release from the basecoat as seen in the OP's picture.
And yes I know this from experience of nearly 30 years as a bodyman and painter.

Don't waste your money on products that claim they can fix modern paint like this. It's just Snake Oil.

 

[seedtime]

Finally did the test on the black doner deck lid. Top picture is before and bottom is after. It did make the good clear coat really shine and brought the color back to the base, especially with the additional sealer wax application. At certain angles, the deteriorated clear coat seems to disappear. I moved over to my hood and followed the same process. I was hoping for a miracle , but it only looks a tad better. At least the paint is clean, smooth, and protected. Not sure it was worth it, but I plan to hit the other small areas anyways. It nicely cleaned up where a front license plate used to be. Not going to say it didn’t work, just not like it did in the ad.


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[mogrady55]

I have a 30+ year old factory paint job. It is still very nice, but has areas of clear-cost oxidation but no peeling yet. This car is garage stored, so I’m willing to jeopardize a bit more clear-coat removal for some shine. I have no automotive ‘detail’ experience other than occasional sponge and soap. I don’t own a polisher and would prefer not to at this time. So I am thinking about going the good-olde elbow grease route. This Lukat seems almost to good to be true.


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[mogrady55]

Worked for me, still gonna work it more tonight and tomorrow I'll wax it.

 

[CJM8515]

^ that paint is still clearly oxidized

 

[mogrady55]

^ that paint is still clearly oxidized

Not as bad as it was, want perfect get paint.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

That clear coat is "toast" and sadly nothing will bring it back. "IF" a product is too good to be true…… Don’t buy it!

BTW! This Lukat product is like spraying perfume on a turd…… Save your money.

 

[mm08822]

Unless the clear is removed, you will always see the separation, i.e. white.

If you were to remove the clear, you might as well keep going and chase away any dents/dings and do it right, to finally get the look you really want.

Otherwise, the paint continue to thin and surface rust will take over. A lifted clear coat can also trap moisture.