Lumber grade for 2x4 9.5 foot studs

[mark2457]

Hi Guys

just about to build exterior walls for single story garage (nothing in "attic"). Location is Skokie, IL (just north of Chicago)

Walls will be 9.5 foot high, 2x4, 24" oc (plans approved by village)

I seem to recall reading somewhere that a specific grade had to be used over 8 foot.

Does anyone know if this is the case?

I was planning to buy these (Grade: Stud and Better. Species SPF) https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444422740098.htm

Would these be OK?

TIA

Mark

 

[Keel]

gets cold there, doesn't it, why not 2x6 so you can insulate it better

 

[mark2457]

gets cold there, doesn't it, why not 2x6 so you can insulate it better

Too late for that, slab (with stem walls has been poured). My last garage was 2x4 with R19 (IIRC) and it wasn't too bad.

 

[Zeke]

Studs are graded as, well, studs. You are looking for at least "construction" grade.

Structural Light Framing
(2x2 through 4x4, used where high-strength design values are required in light framing sizes, such as in engineered wood trusses.) Grades are:

SELECT STRUCTURAL
No. 1 & BTR (DF-L, DF & Hem-Fir species only)
No. 1
No. 2
No. 3

Light Framing
(2x2 through 4x4, basic framing lumber, as used in most light-frame construction, e.g. wall framing, sills, plates, cripples, blocking, etc.) Grades are:

CONSTRUCTION
STANDARD
UTILITY

Stud
(2x2 through 4x18, an optional grade intended for vertical use, as in load bearing walls.) The grade is:

STUD

Source: http://www.wwpa.org/TECHGUIDE/Grades/tabid/849/Default.aspx#framing

 

[NUTTSGT]

Too late for that, slab (with stem walls has been poured). My last garage was 2x4 with R19 (IIRC) and it wasn't too bad.

How wide is your stem wall ? Are you sure it was R19 ? That stuff is 5 1/2 inches thick and a 2x4 wall is 3 1/2" deep.

 

[theoldwizard1]

"Stud grade" lumber is only required to have "3 good corners/edges"

 

[Sal Bandini]

Stud grade is fine. After all, you are using it in the vertical orientation. It's not being used for spanning.

 

[rburke65]

You would not want a 10' side wall? You are going to buy and waste 6" of a stud? Good luck on the build Mark.

 

[mark2457]

How wide is your stem wall ? Are you sure it was R19 ? That stuff is 5 1/2 inches thick and a 2x4 wall is 3 1/2" deep.

Maybe it was R13? (been a few years since I did it)

My stem walls are 5-inches (I think). My permit and plans have all been approved. I'm assuming I'd have to resubmit if I changed it (assuming the stem wall was wide enough) I need to get it build before winter

 

[mark2457]

You would not want a 10' side wall? You are going to buy and waste 6" of a stud? Good luck on the build Mark.

Would love to make it 10' (even 12'), but village rules says 1 story and max to top of gutter or eve can't be more than 10' above grade and peak of roof can't be more than 15'

Siding has to be 6" above grade, so add double top plate gets me to 9". 10' studs would take me way above the allowable height.

I put scissor trusses on the permit application to give me more ceiling height in middle, but might drop back to common trusses due to cost and lead time. Already over budget and late getting started :-(

 

[Cyberbear]

Out here in California we use all construction grade and the wall studs are on 16" centers for everything, 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. The 16" spacing has been around forever, even back in the day when studs were a full 2" x 4" and usually rough cut. But then, we are in a busy seismic zone for much of the state, but over building never hurts and it works very well with standard 4' x 8' sheet stock.

 

[Keel]

You would not want a 10' side wall? You are going to buy and waste 6" of a stud? Good luck on the build Mark.

most likely using 8' studs. + sill and double header, and his base concrete wall.

 

[rburke65]

Got ya. Ya got to live the rules and restrictions. Good luck.

 

[mark2457]

Out here in California we use all construction grade and the wall studs are on 16" centers for everything, 2 x 4 or 2 x 6. The 16" spacing has been around forever, even back in the day when studs were a full 2" x 4" and usually rough cut. But then, we are in a busy seismic zone for much of the state, but over building never hurts and it works very well with standard 4' x 8' sheet stock.

Main reason I went with 24" OC is that the trusses have to be over the studs, so 16" oc would have meant another 5 trusses too, or would have to 16" AND 24" oc. Given there's one story, no attic load, and it's fully sheathed in 1/2-inch ply, I reckoned 24' oc would suffice

 

[Keel]

Main reason I went with 24" OC is that the trusses have to be over the studs, so 16" oc would have meant another 5 trusses too, or would have to 16" AND 24" oc. Given there's one story, no attic load, and it's fully sheathed in 1/2-inch ply, I reckoned 24' oc would suffice

you are forgetting snow load..

I don't like 24"oc

 

[readhead]

Some of you guys need to get out more. It's called "high performance framing " and it is gaining traction. 2x4 framing @ 24" oc with a single top plate. Trusses or rafters stacked over the studs. Spray foam insulation. As you go farther north the walls become 2x6.

One of many newer framing systems designed to meet the new energy codes. As a sub I need to pay attention to the frammers and make sure all the backing I need gets installed because the idea is to reduce as much thermal transfer as possible.

 

[Cyberbear]

What redhead has to say about "High Performance Framing" may be true in some areas, but I have difficulty understanding why using less material is better than standard construction. Is it to save costs, material or simply bad workmanship?
In my area the codes call for 2 x 6 studs for seismic strength on 12' walls. The reason for a double top plate is for strength and keeping the walls straight, thus the staggered plate joints. Also, a double top plate allows the use of any rafter or truss spacing. The codes are written to adjust for the wide variables of framing skills by professionals and owner/builders alike.

 

[readhead]

18% more insulation.

 

[Keel]

What redhead has to say about "High Performance Framing" may be true in some areas, but I have difficulty understanding why using less material is better than standard construction. Is it to save costs, material or simply bad workmanship?
In my area the codes call for 2 x 6 studs for seismic strength on 12' walls. The reason for a double top plate is for strength and keeping the walls straight, thus the staggered plate joints. Also, a double top plate allows the use of any rafter or truss spacing. The codes are written to adjust for the wide variables of framing skills by professionals and owner/builders alike.

cheaper for the contractor and goes up faster..
does not last...
we had tons of roofs cave in last winter.. around here..

I'd not touch 24 o/c or trusses with "engineered wood" beems

 

[readhead]

24" framing has been in the code since I have been building, 45 years, and probably before that. I think that it is perceived as not as good. Some structural panels require 16" oc nailing.

We have lost track of the OP's original question which Zeke answered very clearly. People get locked into standard practices. Some of that is regional and some is "that is the way we have always done it" thinking. There was a time when a two story house was balloon framed with 20' studs. I think we can all be glad that that is not the standard anymore. Methods change, sometimes for the better and sometimes not.