Lutherie Tools....

[JMLangford]

I've played and collected many stringed instruments (mostly guitar) on and off for roughly 60 years (1967 to present. - I'm 73yrs old)
I currently have over 30+ various instruments (guitars, banjos, fiddles, mandolins, etc.) that every now and then need a little TLC, so I've become an wannabe amateur luthier.
Thru the years I've gathered up a few specialized luthier tools to help with the up-keep and repairs.
I have all types of hand tools, chisels, files, saws, planes, wrenches, etc. for woodworking, auto repair, home repair, electrical, plumbing.....while some of these tools can be used in instrument work.....sometimes you need a special tool just right for the job.

So, here are some of my specialized luthier tools.....




#1 ~ Adjustable Nut / Saddle Sanding Tool

#2 + #3 ~ Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Bars (with PSA Sandpaper)
(more about these later)

#4 ~ Three 6-Inch Aluminum Deep Reach C-Clamp (Bridge Reglue)

#5 ~ Homemade Violin Neck Angle Gauge

#6 ~ Bridge Clamping Tool

#7 ~ String Action Gauge

#8 ~ StewMac Dremel Attachment for Routing Binding Channels

#9 ~ IBEX small convex bottom plane for thicknessing arched instrument tops and backs

#10 ~ StewMac #4490 Small / Med. Double-edge Fret Crowning File

#11 ~ Generic Med. / Lg. - Lg. / Xl. Double-edge Fret Crowning File

#12 ~ Bridge Pin Removal Tool

#13 ~ Nut Scribe Tool

#14 ~ Two Tapered Reamers

#15 ~ Set of 6 Gauged Nut Slotting Files for Acoustic Light / Medium Strings .013" - .056"

#16 ~ Fret Rocker

 

[JMLangford]

But wait....There's more



#1 ~ 35° Fret Beveling / Dressing File

#2 ~ Replacement Fret Beveling / Dressing File (Fine Cut)

#3 ~ Small General Purpose File (Tapered Half-Round)

#4 ~ Fret End Dressing / Deburring File (with brass cleaner brush)

#5 ~ Knob / Jack / Tuner Nut Spanner Wrench

#6 ~ Large Bridge Pin Slotting Saw

#7 ~ Small Bridge Pin Slotting Saw

#8 ~ Another Tapered Reamer

#9 + #10 ~ 4mm + 5mm Long Reach Truss Rod Ball End Hex Wrenches

#11 ~ Fret Hammer


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[JMLangford]

5S is how I came to have these (super flat) 01 Tool Steel Bars....If anyone is familiar with business and manufacturing, 5S stands for a five-step methodology used to create and maintain an organized, clean, and highly productive workspace.
One of the 5 "S" is SORT: Separate needed items from unneeded ones and remove the clutter.....Well, In the late '90's ('98-'99) the plant where one of my sons worked "removed" a lot of their "clutter" and he wound up with some of it. (as well as many other employees)
These bars are just some of the 5S items I've gotten over the years....You would not believe the things large companies "dispose" of


Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Bars....(Also known as flat stock, these precision-ground bars are held to a tight thickness tolerance. Often used for dies, punches, and gauges, O1 tool steel is an oil-hardening material that resists wear and abrasion.)




#1 ~ 2 3/8" Wide X 3/8" Thick X 19 3/4" Long (Assorted PSA grit sandpaper both sides)
I've had several of these bar....I given away probably 5 or 6 to other wannabe luthier friends (much like myself).....I have only 7 remaining

#2 ~ 2" Wide X 3/8" Thick X 18 3/16" Long (Assorted PSA grit sandpaper both sides)
Sadly, I only have one of these

#3 ~ 2" Wide X 3/16" Thick X 19 15/16" Long (Assorted PSA grit sandpaper both sides)
I probably have 40+ of these (still wrapped in oily wax paper)


Please post up you luthier's tools.....




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[RoninB4]

Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Bars....

-Long time toolmaker with a personal interest in instrument construction here. Not sure how you're defining "super flat" but may I ask what you're using them for? Have you actually checked them for flatness? Is either the thickness or flatness a concern in how you use them?

-I appreciate how the flat stock came to you, 5S can be helpful to establish order and cut down on unnecessary clutter provided it's carried out by someone that understands the location it's in. 5S can also be an absurd PITA when it's wielded by the OCD and/or **** retentive types. I once got a written notification of an infraction for have 2 errant paper clips on my desk.

-Just as an FYI, flat stock O-1 or other materials are readily available from several sources. It can readily be obtained in oversize, soft, or a hardened state. It's not very expensive should you want/need more or replacements. I do realize that some of the tooling is special purpose and limited availability but some of the more common items used might be rather overpriced at a website that caters to the luthier. Just suggesting that items common to both machine shops and the luthier might be much less expensive (and offer more choices) if sourced from an industrial supply house (Not McMaster, MSC, or Grainger). Just a suggestion.

 

[gahrajmahal]

My grandson plays the violin in the Jr. High symphony. He also rides a crowded city bus to get to school. When he first started Jr. High he was dragging his several thousand $$ rental violin to and from three times a week. His parents were worried he might accidentally break it or get it stolen. I thought I would build him a violin kit so he could practice it at home and leave the good one at school. So that is what we did. We bought the kit from Grizzly and my grandson and I assembled it over several weekends. As you can see it is mostly assembled and of high quality. We used my auto body file to flatten the finger board and upper nut. I also had a fine tooth triangle file we used to make grooves for the strings. Finishing the bridge was the trickiest and I watched several videos of Italian master luthiers explaining the process. Mostly just fancy trimming with a pocket knife. I then used my digital height gauge, used for setting table saw blade height among other things, to get the string to fingerboard height set. Our stain and varnish finish is a bit rustic, but I think only adds to the charm. It doesn’t hold a tune very well and my grandson snapped several “A” strings so we took it to the violin shoppe. There, the technician who restringed it was very impressed that we built it from a kit. She tuned it with new “good strings” and quickly played a few stanzas showing us it wasn’t all bad. She was also impressed with the finger action I attained with my bridge work. So, a digital height gauge is a good investment.

 

[RTM]

I appreciate how the flat stock came to you, 5S can be helpful to establish order and cut down on unnecessary clutter provided it's carried out by someone that understands the location it's in. 5S can also be an absurd PITA when it's wielded by the OCD and/or **** retentive types. I once got a written notification of an infraction for have 2 errant paper clips on my desk.

My company 5Sd a storage space, and the ignorant threw away $100k worth of change parts for a filling machine I installed. I saw them, and dragged them back across the campus to my office. 6 months later they wanted them, and called me, vendor wanted $150k and 6 months to make them, they needed them in 6 weeks. What Can We Do? Quit hiring idiots to do important jobs.


I refer to it as 6S, where the final one is Shitcan.

And got no recognition for saving their project budget and timeline.

 

[Aaron_W]

I've played and collected many stringed instruments (mostly guitar) on and off for roughly 60 years (1967 to present. - I'm 73yrs old)
I currently have over 30+ various instruments (guitars, banjos, fiddles, mandolins, etc.) that every now and then need a little TLC, so I've become an wannabe amateur luthier.
Thru the years I've gathered up a few specialized luthier tools to help with the up-keep and repairs.
I have all types of hand tools, chisels, files, saws, planes, wrenches, etc. for woodworking, auto repair, home repair, electrical, plumbing.....while some of these tools can be used in instrument work.....sometimes you need a special tool just right for the job.

So, here are some of my specialized luthier tools.....




#1 ~ Adjustable Nut / Saddle Sanding Tool

#2 + #3 ~ Tight-Tolerance Oil-Hardening O1 Tool Steel Bars (with PSA Sandpaper)
(more about these later)

#4 ~ Three 6-Inch Aluminum Deep Reach C-Clamp (Bridge Reglue)

#5 ~ Homemade Violin Neck Angle Gauge

#6 ~ Bridge Clamping Tool

#7 ~ String Action Gauge

#8 ~ StewMac Dremel Attachment for Routing Binding Channels

#9 ~ IBEX small convex bottom plane for thicknessing arched instrument tops and backs

#10 ~ StewMac #4490 Small / Med. Double-edge Fret Crowning File

#11 ~ Generic Med. / Lg. - Lg. / Xl. Double-edge Fret Crowning File

#12 ~ Bridge Pin Removal Tool

#13 ~ Nut Scribe Tool

#14 ~ Two Tapered Reamers

#15 ~ Set of 6 Gauged Nut Slotting Files for Acoustic Light / Medium Strings .013" - .056"

#16 ~ Fret Rocker

I played several instruments during my school years, guitar, violin, viola, piano, the recorder, but didn't continue past high school. I've occasionally thought it would be fun to make an instrument. I need another hobby like I need a hole in my head, but it is neat seeing some of the tools used.

My grandson plays the violin in the Jr. High symphony. He also rides a crowded city bus to get to school. When he first started Jr. High he was dragging his several thousand $$ rental violin to and from three times a week. His parents were worried he might accidentally break it or get it stolen. I thought I would build him a violin kit so he could practice it at home and leave the good one at school. So that is what we did. We bought the kit from Grizzly and my grandson and I assembled it over several weekends. As you can see it is mostly assembled and of high quality. We used my auto body file to flatten the finger board and upper nut. I also had a fine tooth triangle file we used to make grooves for the strings. Finishing the bridge was the trickiest and I watched several videos of Italian master luthiers explaining the process. Mostly just fancy trimming with a pocket knife. I then used my digital height gauge, used for setting table saw blade height among other things, to get the string to fingerboard height set. Our stain and varnish finish is a bit rustic, but I think only adds to the charm. It doesn’t hold a tune very well and my grandson snapped several “A” strings so we took it to the violin shoppe. There, the technician who restringed it was very impressed that we built it from a kit. She tuned it with new “good strings” and quickly played a few stanzas showing us it wasn’t all bad. She was also impressed with the finger action I attained with my bridge work. So, a digital height gauge is a good investment.

I didn't know Grizzly sold stuff like this, looks like a fun project.

 

[JMLangford]

My grandson plays the violin in the Jr. High symphony. He also rides a crowded city bus to get to school. When he first started Jr. High he was dragging his several thousand $$ rental violin to and from three times a week. His parents were worried he might accidentally break it or get it stolen. I thought I would build him a violin kit so he could practice it at home and leave the good one at school. So that is what we did. We bought the kit from Grizzly and my grandson and I assembled it over several weekends. As you can see it is mostly assembled and of high quality. We used my auto body file to flatten the finger board and upper nut. I also had a fine tooth triangle file we used to make grooves for the strings. Finishing the bridge was the trickiest and I watched several videos of Italian master luthiers explaining the process. Mostly just fancy trimming with a pocket knife. I then used my digital height gauge, used for setting table saw blade height among other things, to get the string to fingerboard height set. Our stain and varnish finish is a bit rustic, but I think only adds to the charm. It doesn’t hold a tune very well and my grandson snapped several “A” strings so we took it to the violin shoppe. There, the technician who restringed it was very impressed that we built it from a kit. She tuned it with new “good strings” and quickly played a few stanzas showing us it wasn’t all bad. She was also impressed with the finger action I attained with my bridge work. So, a digital height gauge is a good investment.

I played several instruments during my school years, guitar, violin, viola, piano, the recorder, but didn't continue past high school. I've occasionally thought it would be fun to make an instrument. I need another hobby like I need a hole in my head, but it is neat seeing some of the tools used.



I did know Grizzly sold stuff like this, looks like a fun project.

I've built one of the StewMac fiddle kits for a friend and I have another one half-way built
They are great kits and an easy way to get started in instrument building....funny thing though, of all the stringed instruments I play the fiddle is the hardest....I can make it sound like rocking on a cat's tail

 

[JMLangford]

-Long time toolmaker with a personal interest in instrument construction here. Not sure how you're defining "super flat" but may I ask what you're using them for? Have you actually checked them for flatness? Is either the thickness or flatness a concern in how you use them?....

Not being an machinist, but to my amateur assessment, my claim of super flat is based on the fact that when 2 of them are placed together there is no wobble, rocking, gaps, or movement. In fact they fit so close together its hard to separate them. I can set one on the machined surface of my 3hp cabinet saw and it sits nice and flat with no teddering, rocking, etc.
I haven't checked them with a dial indicator on a granite surface plate, but feel safe to say they are the flattest thing I've ever come across....most guys put sandpaper on a 4ft aluminum level from Home Depot and do just fine.
I've used these to level frets (The largest one weighs about 5 lbs) and have use it with the Adjustable Nut / Saddle Sanding Tool (#1 in the first pic) I've also used them with wet/dry sandpaper to sharpen knives, chisels, and plane irons (Scary Sharp)

I like them!!

 

[JMLangford]

Here's a cheap guitar (Laurens LA125N) that I gave $12 dollars for at a Thrift store a while back (broken tuners, no nut or saddle, lots of dings and dents, and plenty of scratches on the back)


I didn't notice until I got it home that the bridge was lifting....


I scribed around the bridge, then removed it and cleaned it, ready to reglue....


Taped around the area and reglued it down using 2 waxed bridge pins to locate it properly....(notice the 2 additional holes drilled in the bridge for bolts and the slots cut in the pin holes)


Here its all glued up and the bridge clamp installed, this is the first time using this type of clamp.....(in the past I've always used the 3 Shop Fox long reach clamps)



Put aside for 24 hours....


All done....6mm pearl buttons installed to hide bolts (belt and suspenders )


Bridge pins and bone saddle installed....


With new tuners, bone nut and saddle, level, crowned and polish the frets, tweaked the truss rod, and fresh set of strings, this guitar plays great! (played it a couple of weeks ago at our jam get together and it held it own nicely )





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[JMLangford]

Here are some pics of me using the tool steel to sand the rim of an F-style mandolin to level the rim with the kerfing....circa 2005







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[JMLangford]

Found 2 other bridge repairs I've done using the 3 Shop Fox C-clamps!
(I used 3 bolts and pearl dots on these repairs)

First one....








Second one....







I'm still undecided about which clamping system is best/easiest they both get the job done



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[oscarsnapkin]

Interesting thread. Thanks for sharing. My 10 year old son plays guitar. I bought him a cheap $99 mini Telecaster type off of eBay. It’s staring to show it’s cheapness after a few years, and he’s getting bigger. I have a couple of really nice guitars but I’m right handed and he’s a lefty. I’ve been wanting to get him a Jaguar since it has a bit of a smaller neck. Lately we’ve been discussing building something. He’s really into making models, puppets and electronics so I was thinking of buying a bare third-party Jaguar body and letting him paint, draw, or do whatever he wants with it. Then we would assemble it using quality parts and a Fender neck. I figure that way he would have a high quality guitar that will last, that he designed himself. This thread goes way beyond what I would need to do, but it’s very neat to see.

 

[Aaron_W]

I've built one of the StewMac fiddle kits for a friend and I have another one half-way built
They are great kits and an easy way to get started in instrument building....funny thing though, of all the stringed instruments I play the fiddle is the hardest....I can make it sound like rocking on a cat's tail

It has probably been 45 years since I've tried playing a violin, but it might be fun to try making one anyway. I'm sure if I watch Young Frankenstein a few times it will all come back to me.

 

[hailwood1965]

The Beatles, thru their Cavern and Hamburg period and beyond, played on absolute **** instruments or if not **** then cheap half-falling apart instruments.

 

[JMLangford]

Interesting thread. Thanks for sharing. My 10 year old son plays guitar. I bought him a cheap $99 mini Telecaster type off of eBay. It’s staring to show it’s cheapness after a few years, and he’s getting bigger. I have a couple of really nice guitars but I’m right handed and he’s a lefty. I’ve been wanting to get him a Jaguar since it has a bit of a smaller neck. Lately we’ve been discussing building something. He’s really into making models, puppets and electronics so I was thinking of buying a bare third-party Jaguar body and letting him paint, draw, or do whatever he wants with it. Then we would assemble it using quality parts and a Fender neck. I figure that way he would have a high quality guitar that will last, that he designed himself. This thread goes way beyond what I would need to do, but it’s very neat to see.

Thanks....I think its a fantastic ideal for you and your son to build a guitar together, and since he is skilled with using his hands and has an active imagination the guitar would be epic.
Set-up is much easier on a solid body guitar with a bolt-on neck and there are hundreds of YouTube videos to help....
Be sure to post pics here to share your build

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[JMLangford]

It has probably been 45 years since I've tried playing a violin, but it might be fun to try making one anyway. I'm sure if I watch Young Frankenstein a few times it will all come back to me.

The violin kits are a great way to build. The kits come with the back and sides already assembled making it easier to get started.

This is the StewMac kit I built (assembled ) for my friend....



I used a student violin of my son's to make the homemade neck angle gauge (at the time I saved $12 plus shipping )


I completed it "in the white" and gave it to him to apply finish....






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[JMLangford]

The Beatles, thru their Cavern and Hamburg period and beyond, played on absolute **** instruments or if not **** then cheap half-falling apart instruments.

Cheap instruments have there place....A lot of the instruments coming out of China nowadays are well made, sometime even rivaling the big name brands.
I've own a few plywood top guitars that sounded great (if your get one that sounds good, it will always sound good...it you get one that sounds like ****, it will always sound like **** )

 

[JMLangford]

Several years ago I made a couple of Klemmsia style cam clamps out of maple and steel bar stock....


They worked O.K. but I always thought they were too big and clunky, so I started building them in the mini style like the StewMac version.
I downloaded the pic from the website and guessed the proportions best I could and made some thin plywood templates and instead of steel I used lighter aluminum bar stock.....



Here are the first batch of 8 made from Ash (they are drying on my custom drying rack )
I gave these away to an amateur luthier friend....


Couple of years later I made up a batch of 16 and gave 8 away to a professional luthier friend (I still have 8 unfinished ones)....


I buy 8ft aluminum bar stock (from Lowes) and can get eight 12" x 1/8" x 3/4" bars from one....



Here are the rough measurements....


Guess I should finish up the 8 I have left and start using them


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[JMLangford]

Here is a pair of Channellock #357 end nippers I modified many years ago.
I ground the top bevel flush so I could use them as a fret puller....nowdays you can get a proper fret pulling pair for under $10 off Amazon....









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