While looking at span tables for LVL's it also gives you the bearing point for the support at each end. So lets say I want to remove a wall between two rooms that are both 12' wide. But I only want the opening to be 10' leaving 12" on either side to serve as a visual separation of the rooms. The tables spec a minimum 3" bearing on each end. So you could use a beam that is 10' 6" long and incorporate the 3" of bearing surface into each 12" wall. What if I installed a 12' beam and 12" of bearing surface at each end to reduce the opening to 10'. Other than the extra expense of the longer beam and additional jack studs is there any problem doing this? I figure its not changing the weight carrying capacity of the beam as its still a 10' span. Would it just place the load over a larger area on the floor?
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LVL bearing points
- Thread starter gregs
- Start date
rlitman
Well-known member
The bearing surface is the MINIMUM surface allowed by the LVL for that span. Less than that, and you will crush wood fibers of the LVL. More is fine, and may even be required depending on what the LVL is sitting on. If you're supporting it with wood for example, that wood column may require a larger bearing area than the LVL.
juddspaintballs
Well-known member
You typically buy LVLs by the foot or two foot increments, so you're buying 11' or 12' of LVL either way. It would be silly to cut 6" or 18" off of the LVL to get to the minimum bearing distance, especially since you can fit a 12' LVL in the space.
Are you doing 2x4 or 2x6 walls? Either way, you're likely going to need at least a pair of studs nailed together at the end of those walls to bear the beam load.
Are you doing 2x4 or 2x6 walls? Either way, you're likely going to need at least a pair of studs nailed together at the end of those walls to bear the beam load.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
More importantly your support should be continuous to the foundation.
It is a 2x4 wall. I understand that 2-2x4 jack studs is the minimum at each end. My plan would be to buy a 12' beam and fill the 12" in each end to create the 10' opening. So for it to meet its 10' span rating the jack studs need to be at the edge of the 10' opening. So would it be a waste to just make the entire 12" out of studs? And would you have them sitting directly on the floor or on a 12" bottom plate? Its on a reinforced concrete floor footing.
billconner
Well-known member
If this is all on a slab? If so, each 12" wall could be 12" top and bottom plates, and 2 studs. Another stud or two is fine if it makes building it simpler.
rlitman
Well-known member
Close, but no. That would give insufficient bearing surface as discussed above. Three studs per 12" wall, with a pair at the end of the span might satisfy the bearing surface, but you still need a king stud to go with those two jack studs, so you're looking at 4 studs per 12" wall. And that's assuming the pair of jack studs can carry the compressive load that the removed wall would have carried before. I'm not sure a pair could, but with the third king stud involved, I'm betting it will be fine.If this is all on a slab? If so, each 12" wall could be 12" top and bottom plates, and 2 studs. Another stud or two is fine if it makes building it simpler.
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CraigStu
Well-known member
You need a bottom plate and, on concrete, it may need to be pressure treated. I like your plan of supporting a full 12" of the lvl on each end.
Would a bottom or top plate cause an issue regarding the compressive load for the jacks? Thinking end grain vs face grain? Plan would be to leave the top plate in place as it would serve as a tie plate to the joists as its nailed into them already. Double or triple king studs wouldnt be an issue as it would only be shortening the beam slightly. By the time you do multiple kings and jacks in a 12" space I think I might as well make it solid 2x4's as there isnt much to save.
The bottom plate compression will be so little you will never notice it. It would be very hard to fasten the studs to the concrete without a bottom plate and you'd have nothing to nail your finish wall to at the bottom.
billconner
Well-known member
3" is 2 studs. Doesn't matter if nailed together or a foot apart - it's still 3" of bearing. Wether you need a king or not depends on what it's butting into and what it's being sheathed with.Close, but no. That would give insufficient bearing surface as discussed above. Three studs per 12" wall, with a pair at the end of the span might satisfy the bearing surface, but you still need a king stud to go with those two jack studs, so you're looking at 4 studs per 12" wall. And that's assuming the pair of jack studs can carry the compressive load that the removed wall would have carried before. I'm not sure a pair could, but with the third king stud involved, I'm betting it will be fine.
TRWham
Well-known member
Strictly from the point of view of bearing this is true, however Herr Euler reminds us that nailing the 2 together will make for a much stiffer post.3" is 2 studs. Doesn't matter if nailed together or a foot apart - it's still 3" of bearing. Wether you need a king or not depends on what it's butting into and what it's being sheathed with.
A thought. The information that you noted about a (minimum) 3" of bearing on supports, I would assume that it was in regards to the bearing stresses, but there is another thing that needs consideration. Your actual loads being transferred to the studs and the stud heights will have an impact on determining if (only) 2 studs will be adequate acting as posts. This is a different topic than how much bearing is required. That is a calculation item and not a rule of thumb or reference table solution.