LVP Flooring in Basement over Concrete?

[HandyFS]

I'm making a small basement laundry area (125+/- Sq Ft) nicer and was considering putting down LVP flooring. I'm painting the other part of the basement with 2-part epoxy and may paint this section too, but the idea of LVP in this space would make it much nicer. I know there are all sorts of concerns with water getting under the planks, etc. This basement is reasonably dry overall. It used to get water but when I purchase it I redid all the gutters so that solved about 95% of the water issues. So I think its just regular old basement concrete floors I'm covering at this point.

I figure I'll find the best floor I can afford with the idea that it may need to be ripped up later IF things just don't work out. So something that's reasonably priced, and seems to have the waterproof capabilities. Laminate I know is more wood/fiber based, so that seems like its not ideal here, and LVP makes more sense with its construction.

Floor Prep/Vapor Barrier:
I'm going to be doing some general grinding/prep for paint in the other area of the basement, so I plan to touch these floors up so they are smooth and won't have any issues with the click system. I know some LVP say they have vapor barrier built in, but is there something I would actually put down before the VLP?

Anyone install LVP in a basement and like it, or have issues? Anyone against it? I'm sure there are plenty of opinions in all directions, and I'm open to hearing them ll.

 

[rlitman]

Three years ago I replaced my basement's 15 year old "water-resistant" laminate floor with LVP following a flood (sewage pipe failure, so ANY floor would need lifting). I did both over a 6 mil vapor barrier, and haven't had issues with either. DO NOT use a foam underlayment or any vapor barrier that's more than just a polyethylene sheet. My guess is epoxy would be fine as a vapor barrier, so if you do end up epoxying that area first, I think you can safely skip the sheeting.

As for needing the vapor barrier, moisture can certainly come up from a slab, and the last thing you want to do is trap it in the cushioning (foam or better yet cork) underlayer of your floor.

LVP as you know is more sensitive to bumps and dents beneath it, but since you're doing prep grinding, I'm sure you'll be more than good enough. You can use a self-leveling compound in low spots, just as you would do for old-school VCT. In my case, I actually have VCT glued to the slab, and where some tiles were loose, I pulled them and leveled with thinset.

 

[dcg9381]

LVP is pretty good these days, I've used it myself, it's come a long way. I've never put it down over concrete though.

Sounds like you're concerned about moisture. Another product option that is a "step up" from LVP is "GeoWood" by Cali Bamboo. It's a composite core with a laminated hardwood and a scratch-protection surface. It's basically like "engineered hardwood" - but from the perspective of handling "wet" better, it's a huge improvement as it's core is composite. I've had engineered hardwood give up the ghost where I didn't find a water leak soon enough.

This stuff, I literally got a sample and I soaked in water for 2 weeks. It looks no different. And it's pretty indistinguishable from hardwood at a fraction of the cost. It is more than LVP.

I'm not flooring expert and we don't really have basements here.. So YMMV.

 

[cgrutt]

I'd consider using a self leveling underlayment such as sika. You want it smooth and flat for lvt.

 

[Hank11]

If I was only 95% sure of the water issue being cured, I would think twice about putting down any kind of wood product.

 

[Retroman]

Just had my first floor done in LVT over concrete. They ground the high spots and filled the low spots.
The stuff I used is waterproof as I think most are these days. But no issues going over concrete.
The LVT had a rubber or something like rubber backing.

 

[HandyFS]

If I was only 95% sure of the water issue being cured, I would think twice about putting down any kind of wood product.

The other 5% is pretty much solved, the majority of issues on this house were fixed by simply installing new proper gutters. The last bit was related to a gap in the asphalt and block foundation on the driveway side of the home. We've had a few heavy rains since and all seems to be buttoned up, but you can never be too sure so I'm not giving it the full 100% just yet. But your right, if there is active water, no use it covering it up to have to do the job twice. I won't be installing this for at least another few weeks so I'll get the rain I'm looking for I'm sure.

Just had my first floor done in LVT over concrete. They ground the high spots and filled the low spots.
The stuff I used is waterproof as I think most are these days. But no issues going over concrete.
The LVT had a rubber or something like rubber backing.

Any idea what brand you went with? This floor is looking pretty good at a quick glance with a 6' level, but I need to check it once more. I plan to grind any high spots if there are any, and I'll use self leveler if anywhere shows low.
The last LVP I installed seems suitable, but I'll have to check out the different LVT (Tile) options to see if anything looks more suitable. Thanks for reminding me LVT exists (In case their core are any different than LVP or not) since I immediately went to LVP.

 

[rlitman]

I used CoreTec commercial LVP after the flood replacement. One room before that had CoreTec LVT. In theory, you may even be able to match up an LVP with an LVT from the same click system and join two rooms without a visible seam.

 

[Retroman]

The other 5% is pretty much solved, the majority of issues on this house were fixed by simply installing new proper gutters. The last bit was related to a gap in the asphalt and block foundation on the driveway side of the home. We've had a few heavy rains since and all seems to be buttoned up, but you can never be too sure so I'm not giving it the full 100% just yet. But your right, if there is active water, no use it covering it up to have to do the job twice. I won't be installing this for at least another few weeks so I'll get the rain I'm looking for I'm sure.


Any idea what brand you went with? This floor is looking pretty good at a quick glance with a 6' level, but I need to check it once more. I plan to grind any high spots if there are any, and I'll use self leveler if anywhere shows low.
The last LVP I installed seems suitable, but I'll have to check out the different LVT (Tile) options to see if anything looks more suitable. Thanks for reminding me LVT exists (In case their core are any different than LVP or not) since I immediately went to LVP.

The brand is SLCC Flooring. You won't find it at HD or lowes. Many years ago my wife worked at flooring store and she got a hold of her old boss and got the material thru them. There 6' x 9.5" x 30mil. Here is what I went with it does not have any rose color. Probably need to see some physical samples to get a good idea on true colors.

product | SLCC Flooring

Your premier destination for high-quality flooring solutions, offering a seamless experience from product discovery to professional installation.

www.slccflooring.com

 

[PsRumors]

I had cheap snap and lock cork backed flooring in our two car garage for 15 years without issue. All I put down was the least expensive thin insulation board from Home Depot I could find.

We used this as the kids play / media room.

When the kids were gone I ripped it out. Stood up well with no issues.

 

[blue-5]

The life proof from home depot has been great for me. So far i have it installed in
Ground floor laundry room over concrete
Finished basement over concrete
In the unheated hunting cabin (mix of subfloor and concrete and it has been awesome in every place i put it

 

[Fav Onefour]

Do a 18" X 18" plastic sheet test.

I've done quite a few rooms with LVT and LVP that is "supposedly" waterproof. That really means that water doesn't absorb into the tiles. The system itself isn't going to completely stop water or water vapor. It stops enough vapor to produce similar results as the plastic sheet test.

Flat, flat, flat, is the key to installation with the newer click systems. Some of the LVP stuff I've used is quite stiff. Those really need flat underlayment. They are easy to install, but the click components are fragile and less durable than the wear surface. If the tile is moving after installation, it will break along the click seams.
If you're not sure about floor being flat enough, do a test. Click a bunch of pieces together and bridge the areas in question. Let it sit awhile and try a flex test. The stiffer planks won't settle and contour. If it's flexing after a day of sitting, it will still flex weeks later.

 

[theoldwizard1]

BY FAR, the best solution is to install a "raised panel" subfloor (DRICORE or similar) first ! Your floor will be level and WARMER ! Concrete will always be "damp". This will solve that problem also. And it there is any water, it will travel underneath the subfloor and not damage anything above.

What you put above this subfloor does not matter.

 

[HandyFS]

Thanks everyone! Sounds like as long as I'm decently level and no water, I should be fine going for LVP or LVT. I'm going to shop around and see what's out there. The space is only about 130+/- Sq Ft so its not too big of a space.

Do a 18" X 18" plastic sheet test.

Great idea. I did this on the wall in a few spots a while back. May as well try it on the floor. Thanks for the reminder.

BY FAR, the best solution is to install a "raised panel" subfloor (DRICORE or similar) first ! Your floor will be level and WARMER ! Concrete will always be "damp". This will solve that problem also. And it there is any water, it will travel underneath the subfloor and not damage anything above.

What you put above this subfloor does not matter.

Wow, I forgot all about this stuff. Pretty cool product, definitely has its place, especially if finishing a basement for living space. I'm going to see what's out there for LVP, then decide if its worth putting this down, or just go LVP and take the chance.

Lots of great info shared, thanks everyone!

 

[rlitman]

...Wow, I forgot all about this stuff. Pretty cool product, definitely has its place, especially if finishing a basement for living space. I'm going to see what's out there for LVP, then decide if its worth putting this down, or just go LVP and take the chance...

In my basement, the ground temperature is always pretty comfortable, so more insulation under the floor wouldn't buy me anything, but a raised subfloor over a slab certainly has it's place.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm going to see what's out there for LVP, then decide if its worth putting this down, or just go LVP and take the chance.

No chance with "raised panel" subfloor !

 

[jpaw]

There is scp and wpc cores. I would look at spc if there is any concern of moisture. Here is an article discussing the differences.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.flooringinc.com/buyers-guide/spc-vs-wpc.html&ved=2ahUKEwjistnngueIAxUXj4kEHaSPN1YQFnoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1YMT-Nvz69dViBTUOXmxCm

 

[CTyankee]

It's not that big a room. How about using those interlocking rubber/foam tiles?

 

[engineer2]

I'm in a similar situation with a basement remodel. Zero moisture issues, but it could flood in the unlikely event the backup sump pump system fails.
Painted concrete floor. Flat, but the usual dip around the floor drain. The floor drain is in a future utility room that will remain concrete. The covered area nearby might drop 1/4" over 3 feet at the most.
Ceramic tile: I would need to grind the floor paint off so the thinset for the Schluter Ditra will stick. Could easily SLC the low area if needed.
LVP: floating or glue-down? Foam backed or cork? What if it ever floods? Can it comply with a bit of unevenness?
Will LVP withstand heavy exercise equipment such as a weight machine and an elliptical?

 

[rlitman]

There is scp and wpc cores. I would look at spc if there is any concern of moisture. Here is an article discussing the differences.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.flooringinc.com/buyers-guide/spc-vs-wpc.html&ved=2ahUKEwjistnngueIAxUXj4kEHaSPN1YQFnoECAcQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1YMT-Nvz69dViBTUOXmxCm

Having used both, what you want depends on the situation. I'd recommend WPC if going over an existing wood subfloor. It's more tolerant of a not so perfectly flat underlayment. But it can also dent if something is dropped on it, which means it's not so great in the below heavy equipment scenario. WPC is better at sound deadening, so that's a plus in multi-story apartments. But on a basement slab, I'm very glad I went with SPC.

I'm in a similar situation with a basement remodel. Zero moisture issues, but it could flood in the unlikely event the backup sump pump system fails.
Painted concrete floor. Flat, but the usual dip around the floor drain. The floor drain is in a future utility room that will remain concrete. The covered area nearby might drop 1/4" over 3 feet at the most.
Ceramic tile: I would need to grind the floor paint off so the thinset for the Schluter Ditra will stick. Could easily SLC the low area if needed.
LVP: floating or glue-down? Foam backed or cork? What if it ever floods? Can it comply with a bit of unevenness?
Will LVP withstand heavy exercise equipment such as a weight machine and an elliptical?

Why would you use Ditra in a basement? Are there cracks in the slab that might telescope, or are you looking for a slight thermal barrier (Ditra's not all that good of one). Ditra is a miracle cure for movement over a wood subfloor, but in a stable basement, I don't see the point.

Cork backing is better than foam in every way.

Can LVP comply with unevenness? Not all that much. If the surface is good enough to glue down VCT, it's good enough for LVP. Tile isn't all that much more forgiving either though.

As for floods, well there's nothing better than epoxy or tile. But if you're not expecting a regular washdown, then LVP should be fine.

 

[engineer2]

Ditra only for crack prevention, but as you said, it's probably not be needed on concrete.
I would ask on the John Bridge Tile Forum but CX the ******* moderator hates me because I violated the DIYer rule. DIYers are only allowed ask questions, not post advice.
Looks like I could SLC the low area and use vinyl planks. Wife suggested vinyl, so she should be happy.