I scored a used one off the bay and it seems weak. doesnt want break alot of bolts loose on my car that i can quickly with a hand ratchet. are these just not that strong or is there sometype of rebuild kit for these?
Yeah, it’s not meant to work like an impact driver/wrench. It’s more of a nut/bolt runner, but as mentioned above, you can use it to manually crack a bolt loose (within reason) just like you would with a wrench. Bear in mind the first gen ratchets are not as stout as the gen 2 (fuel) ratchets. The plastic part of the housing is your weak spot. So I would use it to loosen and remove calipers bolts torqued to 25 ft-lbs, but I would grab a manual ratchet to break carrier bolts loose before using the M12 to remove the bolts.
As everyone has said, break it loose manually and then zip it off.
What I will add, don't go yanking on the battery. I've broke loose things I had no business breaking loose with mine, the only issue I've ever had was cracking a battery case.
Yep, yep, yep, same as everyone is saying. I have one. They work good for spinning things on and off. No good for loosening or tightening, you gotta do that by hand, just be careful not to break the battery off, haha!
Just to add to this cordless and pneumatic ratchets need a running start to reach max torque. Basically you want to feel a little backlash in the gear before you push the paddle. If you're tight on the gear tooth and don't have the backlash they tend to lock up and, in the case of cordless, time-out.
The reason I bought the FUEL version was mainly the beefier pawls that allow it to be more reasonably used as a ratchet. I'm not talking brake caliper bolts, but for a lot of stuff it's fine to crack and spin or bring it all the way to near-tight and finish manually.