M12 fuel hackzall owners

[KWtech90]

I'm having difficulty finding reviews of the m12 fuel hackzall really being put through its paces. Id like to know if it's capable of cutting 1/2 to 3/4 bolts on occassion. I work on semi trucks and trailers and the leafspring u-bolts often require some trimming before a socket can be engaged on the nuts. In the past ive done this with a cutoff wheel on a small corded grinder. The most I've found on YouTube is RTR cutting a 3/8 threaded rod.

I understand that a m18 version is being released in the future, but the m12 fuel is on sale with a free 6.0 battery at home depot currently and if it's capable of meeting my needs I see no reason to use the 18 volt platform for what is essentially a compact sawzall.

 

[chrisexv6]

I cut out some rusted probably about 1/2" diameter bolts from my truck bed. Didnt really have any issue getting through them....I think its more blade dependent than anything else.

There was definitely never a lack of power in my application.

 

[Teenager with old tools]

Haven't cut any bolts but put a 12 inch blade on it and cut through a 13 inch diameter log when my chainsaw wouldn't start. It did decent obviously not a chainsaw but I'd say with a good blade it'll cut bolts just fine


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[WittHay]

I used a bench chop saw for cutting the U-bolts i did in the past. I have a 18V Fuel for cutting metal but the work is usually held in a vise and you put downward pressure on it.
i cut something called a arbor bolt on a machine which was 1 1/8" and it took 2 blades to cut through it.

Not sure how a small sawzall would work putting sideways pressure on higher grade U-bolts

 

[Loscaldazar]

I use my (father's) M12 hackzall for all sorts of rusty bolts and such on cars. Never had an issue with any size bolts. Attached photo is a 3/4 equivalent (metric) bolt that I also had to cut through the metal bushing (adds a few more MM in diameter) also to get it out of the car. It is a solid bolt, I had to drill it out later to get it to release from the hub it also went through. That's why the hole in the (not so) middle of the bolt is there.

I used the hackzall and it worked great. I've used it many times for various bolts and it's been fantastic.

 

[kenfain]

It's a powered hacksaw. It's only limited by runtime. I found mine in the street, and have never charged the xtra runtime battery, yet after a year and several cuts it still has a charge. I'd say your good for several of these bolts. If not, get another battery. It's not like these bolts are those bad boys that are holding up a bridge.

 

[KWtech90]

I used a bench chop saw for cutting the U-bolts i did in the past. I have a 18V Fuel for cutting metal but the work is usually held in a vise and you put downward pressure on it.
i cut something called a arbor bolt on a machine which was 1 1/8" and it took 2 blades to cut through it.

Not sure how a small sawzall would work putting sideways pressure on higher grade U-bolts

I've done this in the past, but it can be a real pain in the **** to start the nuts back on if the cut isn't completely straight.

 

[KWtech90]

Ok I just ordered it $140 for the m12 fuel + 6ah battery. What kind of blades would you recommend for steel? Would something with teeth or a grit type blade work better? The torch blades looked pretty impressive from what I saw.

 

[jonesg]

Ok I just ordered it $140 for the m12 fuel + 6ah battery. What kind of blades would you recommend for steel? Would something with teeth or a grit type blade work better? The torch blades looked pretty impressive from what I saw.

I'm still using a milwaukee bi-metal blade it came with, cuts .5" bolts like buddah.

 

[retfr8flyr]

I have had good results cutting metal with this blade http://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-9...ng-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-DS0908CF/205426168 on my M12 Fuel hackzall.

 

[cheechi]

short answer yes it can, with a good blade and full battery it can cut through anything. I almost always go for Lenox blades. Dewalt, Milwaukee, & Bosch are good too but I prefer the Lenox especially for metal.

Longer answer, and probably why few in-depth reviews;

Fuel hackzall is heavier than the non fuel. As a result I use the non fuel most of the time since I have both and I bet most people who got into M12 before the fuel stuff has a non fuel hackzall. If I had to cut a bolt I'd use the M12 portaband though, since I have all 3 I have plenty of choices. Sorry I couldn't give you the answer you were looking for but hopefully it's a useful answer.

 

[Firebrick43]

For heavy metal cutting you can't beat the Lenox blades. I have used them all and the Lenox just flat out outlast the Milwaukee torch blades and starrett blades.

I was very disappointed in the Milwaukee "hackzall" blades for cutting heavier metal. For shorter ones for my fuel hacksaw I cut Lennox blades down with an abrasive cutoff saw.

The Milwaukee EMT blades are better for cutting emt a tubing. Life isn't great but the won't "jump" out of the cut and the smoothness allows for better control and square cuts. I find I don't use my portaband for these types of cuts anymore as the hacksaw is so much quicker and lighter weight.
The fuel hacksaw is now my number two power tool behind my fuel surge impactor

 

[Captain]

I've owned the pre-Fuel sawzall which eventually siezed up and was replaced by the Fuel.
Both models would handle your job, but as said previously, the blades are the crux.
Having only Milwaukee brand blades, I find they are not as effective as say a manual hacksaw blade. Somehow they lack that "sharpness".

 

[hdmark80]

Why not use a pass through socket set?

 

[PelicanPines]

Trimmed 24 stainless bolts in an outdoor kitchen roof. Every cut was overhead... all done with a single blade...

No way I would have done it with a full sized sawzall tool...

 

[KWtech90]

Why not use a pass through socket set?

That would require a pass through 3/4 drive torque wrench if such a thing even exists.