M14 x 1.0 thread form tap?

[no704]

Anyone have one? Im attempting to replace the crankshaft seals on my 1985 Yamaha G1 golf cart and the threads on the clutch housing are pretty boogered up. I have ordered a normal cutting tap, but really don’t want to remove any more than i have to. Maybe i can grind a negative rake on the new cutting tap? Any suggestions?

 

[nadogail]

For single replacement taps and dies I use the Marshall's Industrial Hardware in San Diego where I can walk in browse the shelves and buy single items on full boxes; they give you a discount.

I have had very good results from calling MSC, their prices are lower; but I have to wait on shipping.

 

[Rusted Nut]

If the threads are “boogered”, use a thread chaser not a tap. A tap will cut new threads, a chaser will clean up existing threads without further boogering.

 

[cgrutt]

Are you sure it's 1.0 mm pitch?

 

[no704]

If the threads are “boogered”, use a thread chaser not a tap. A tap will cut new threads, a chaser will clean up existing threads without further boogering.

Not finding anything in m14 x 1.0. Even McMaster only lists to m12. That’s why im asking about dobbing the new tap. The puller is at minimum and the existing hole is already bigger than listed specs for a m14x 1.0. Tring to give myself the best chance of this working.

 

[no704]

Are you sure it's 1.0 mm pitch?

That’s what my **** thread gauge is telling me. Came with a real bad set of metric taps. Almost matches a 24tpi. But the 1.0 is a better fit.

 

[cgrutt]

I think 1.25 and 1.5 is more common in M14 but could be 1.0.

 

[no704]

I think 1.25 and 1.5 is more common in M14 but could be 1.0.

Agreed, im going off of the bought puller tool. I.0 matches very well. The female threads are more like they have been mashed up, not really striped. I should have gotten some pics. Maybe tomorrow. Only roll form tap in m14x 1 i have found is $90 with an unknown ship date so thats out. Tool measures 13.78mm od and inside the female threads is 13.20 so i dont really want to remove anything more than necessary. Im getting a die also. Might just grind a negative rake on the new tap and chase it with the die. Hardly ideal, but not sure of other options. This thread is only used to pull the clutch. In normal operations there is a bolt that passes thru them.

 

[mattthemuppet]

You could first try grinding a couple of v slots in an M14x1 bolt and run that in and out a few times with some cutting fluid. That might push enough of the material back to save the thread

 

[cgrutt]

I checked if I had something that might work but only have three regular taps in M14 and they are 1.25 1.5 and 2.0 pitch. I thought I had some thread chasers but they are larger maybe M18. Sorry.

 

[no704]

I checked if I had something that might work but only have three regular taps in M14 and they are 1.25 1.5 and 2.0 pitch. I thought I had some thread chasers but they are larger maybe M18. Sorry.

Thanks for checking. Its a very odd super fine thread for m14. New tap and die should arrive on Friday. Thanks everyone!

 

[no704]

You could first try grinding a couple of v slots in an M14x1 bolt and run that in and out a few times with some cutting fluid. That might push enough of the material back to save the thread

I might try that, doubt I’ll find a bolt though

 

[kbeefy]

Would a thread file work? I've used them to save alot of buggered threads. EDIT: my bad, I see your asking for a tap

Alternatively, I have an adjustable thread repair kit made by Lang. I've only successfully used it a couple of times, but it probably paid for itself in those times.

 

[signcrafter]

You could first try grinding a couple of v slots in an M14x1 bolt and run that in and out a few times with some cutting fluid. That might push enough of the material back to save the thread

I've done this many times and it works good. I recently was doing a camshaft replacement and the head bolt holes werent allowing the new TTY head bolts to go in as easily as they should. I could feel them getting tighter then they should be before getting close to the head bottoming out. I didn't have a thread chaser for that size bolt so I took one of the old bolts and cut a few grooves in them with a cut off wheel on die grinder. Ran them in and out of each hole and it cleaned them all up and new bolts now were able to be correctly torqued down.

 

[no704]

Have 2 taps coming tomorrow. Ill try dabbling the cutting edges on one in an attempt to make a form tap.

 

[The Cobbler]

Ill try dabbling the cutting edges

curious on what you're planning to do, grind a bit of a bevel on the cutting edges of the tap?

 

[no704]

curious on what you're planning to do, grind a bit of a bevel on the cutting edges of the tap?

That’s pretty much my plan. Maybe run the die over it after? Maybe just soften it up a bit on the scotch brite wheel? May consult YouTube for ideas too. Any suggestions will be appreciated!

 

[mattthemuppet]

thread repair taps have a negative rake, so the heal of the "cutting edge" is ahead of the peak. Similar to roll form taps in many ways. Cutting taps have positive rake, to peel the metal away and leave a thread. All you need to do is use a dremel or grinding wheel to remove the rake and then angle it back some. Think Toblerone instead of breaking wave in surf

 

[no704]

Taps just arrived! They were not sharp at all, almost like they missed the grinding op. Good for me. Slathered up with some white lithium grease and against my better judgement I powered one in with an electric impact on the lowest setting. Then installed the puller tool. With a few cycles of tightening hammering and heating i got it apart!

 

[no704]

I would have been very disappointed if i had needed these to cut a new thread. But if I did I wouldn’t have ordered the cheapest thing on Amazon!

 

[Codyboy]

I've done this many times and it works good. I recently was doing a camshaft replacement and the head bolt holes werent allowing the new TTY head bolts to go in as easily as they should. I could feel them getting tighter then they should be before getting close to the head bottoming out. I didn't have a thread chaser for that size bolt so I took one of the old bolts and cut a few grooves in them with a cut off wheel on die grinder. Ran them in and out of each hole and it cleaned them all up and new bolts now were able to be correctly torqued down.

I did the same when I rebuilt my 5.3 .
Old head bolt , ground two flats on the threads to use as a cleaning tool. Worked great! Lube and air to blow out the holes. It was on an engine stand too so easy to flip it over and blast out the holes.

 

[signcrafter]

I did the same when I rebuilt my 5.3 .
Old head bolt , ground two flats on the threads to use as a cleaning tool. Worked great! Lube and air to blow out the holes. It was on an engine stand too so easy to flip it over and blast out the holes.

Funny you say the 5.3, was the same engine I was referring to in my example. I'm not one to talk bad about one brand or another, they all have issues. But silverados have paid for a LOT of tools in the shop in the last few years. Between the AOD/DOD issues, fuel pump issues, ABS module issues, torque converter issues, etc. It seems like there is always a 2015 or newer silverado sitting in my driveway waiting to be worked on.

 

[Codyboy]

Funny you say the 5.3, was the same engine I was referring to in my example. I'm not one to talk bad about one brand or another, they all have issues. But silverados have paid for a LOT of tools in the shop in the last few years. Between the AOD/DOD issues, fuel pump issues, ABS module issues, torque converter issues, etc. It seems like there is always a 2015 or newer silverado sitting in my driveway waiting to be worked on.

To be fair, this was a 2000 model that I neglected in the oil change department.
The inside looked like that Honda 70k mile no oil change thread.
It did get regular oil changes about every 15 to 20k or so
I blame it on the oil, Castrol GTX.
Lots of sludge killed the cam bearings which resulted in no oil pressure or very little.

 

[Fred Smoot]

M14 x1.0 was an industry standard but no longer. Curious though, bicycles still have that particular thread on some axles.
I make a non-knurled nut to hold the odometer reset knob on some older Ducati motorcycles. Sold them to people around the world...

RV