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Mac precision torque vs SO FD+ for alignments

Dj.SammyOaks

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Oct 3, 2014
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Wisconsin
So im looking at getting a set of larger wrenches 20mm+ for alignments and i just want some opinions. I know the FD+ is 'the **** to have' when it comes to wrenches but i feel like that upon a lot of torque it would hurt the palms. Ive used the Mac precision torque wrenches before which were pretty thick and thought they were pretty good. Are the FD+ thinner than the precision torque? Do they hurt your hands with alot of torque like on alignments? Also, which are longer?
 
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IFMJohn

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Jun 6, 2014
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Tacoma, WA
I thought I'd chime in and throw out those wrightgrip wrenches as an idea. Some of the guys on this forum seem to have an unhealthly love for them, like, they prefer their wrightgrips over their ratchets (not talking about the tool).

I'm not sure about the snap-on vs matco vs wrightgrips. I've got snap-ons and I just use them. Never had an issue with hands hurting :dunno:
 

Wamsutta

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Jan 8, 2014
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Amarillo, Texas
If you need an open end wrench that will never slip off, the FD+ is the way to go. Some of those ball joint castle nuts take a lot of effort to get them lined up just right for the cotter pin.
 

rtole

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Jan 25, 2014
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I do alignments as well. I have used gearwrench, cman rp and pro, proto, matco, and some others. I have to say the fdp is the best I have used by far. To be fair......I have not used any other brand with teeth. I have tried others that have the v notch, and nothing grips lile the fdp wrenches. I will not say they are comfortable......but they grip like crazy. I usually wear gloves when I do alingments since you have to reswing to check caster after adjusting it, I dont want to get a customers steering wheel dirty. The gloves give enough padding to make the wrenches fine for pushing as hard as you can. I recomend get the easiest 13mm to waranty. I have to get mine done about every other month. The 13 is a common inner tie rod end size, and when trying to break the inner loose from the jamb nut I always spread my 13mm jaws. Even the snap on will spread in this small of a size
 

neonlazer

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Dec 20, 2012
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Lafayette, LA
I thought I'd chime in and throw out those wrightgrip wrenches as an idea. Some of the guys on this forum seem to have an unhealthly love for them, like, they prefer their wrightgrips over their ratchets (not talking about the tool).

I'm not sure about the snap-on vs matco vs wrightgrips. I've got snap-ons and I just use them. Never had an issue with hands hurting :dunno:

To continue on this, here is the video comparing the wrightgrip vs FD+. Snap-on VS Wright Tool (Flank Drive Plus VS Wrigh…:

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

gsingh

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Dec 26, 2012
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Location
NOVA
x3 on SO FD+. Best purchase I made when I started doing alignments. I never noticed my hands hurting after using these.
 

msgtsmithret

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May 5, 2013
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409
Location
Raleigh NC
I do a lot of alignments ( automotive) and use the ole heat wrench often. Makes any wrench work easier. But . . . if you heat up hardware to get it loose, you have to cool it to get a proper setting. You know, heat expands . . . Anyway, besides the heat wrench, get long shanks for alignments. You need lots of torque for difficult nuts, bolts and turnbuckles.
 

Wamsutta

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Amarillo, Texas
If you're looking strictly for comfort, it's hard to beat the beam profile of the Cornwell combination wrench. (____)
 

Zeroek

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Jan 19, 2008
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Location
Indiana
Since I work a Honda dealership and most of the cars I align are newer I've been using Cornwell open end v notch wrenches. If it's anything older and I'm having trouble I either say hell with it and get a torch or use some locking pliers with flat jaw. Plus my cornwell guy is there every week like clockwork unlike our snap on guy.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Mar 24, 2014
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Pittsburgh
Between the two options listed, snap-on. Long pattern wrenches with FD+ style teeth are hard to find. Napa Carlyle has it in a decent length.


FWIW: Wrights have a thicker beam AND jaw section, less likely to slip. I've been know to put a 13mm on an inner tie-rod, brace it against the uni-body or control arm, then yank on the frozen jam nut to give me just that little bit to get it in spec. The wrights slip less than SO, cornwell, carlyle, matco, mac..... everyone really. In my experience anyways.
 

jmm

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Aug 20, 2012
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Location
NC
Worth considering that a large 4 or 5 piece (can't remember exactly) set is on promo right now with Mac. And they're definitely nothing to sneeze at.
 

merbie

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Jul 23, 2014
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england
Used both mac and snap on, on the larger sizes I loved the macs so I bought them!
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Sent from the sticks
 
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shockwave

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Oct 23, 2012
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Marietta,ga
A torch will be you best friend with alignment since a lot of rust will build up on northern and beach side vehicles
 
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Dj.SammyOaks

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Oct 3, 2014
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36
Location
Wisconsin
I just looked yesterday and the MAC 20-24mm precision torque were about $160 while the FD+ 20-24 were exactly double at ~$320
 

AndrewV

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Dec 28, 2013
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1,368
Location
Fl
I mainly use my SO's. I also have carlyle nonslips.
Both kick ***.
ButSO grabs the best in my mind.

Guys in the shop have Mac, Matco(didn't like them).
But it's more of what you think feels better. Can't push the wrench hard, if it hurts to do it.
 

Farmall450

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Dec 23, 2011
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Marengo, Illinois
If you're starting out I probably wouldn't pay full price for SO (exactly double as mentioned above)...Wright makes a good wrench (wright-grip) as does Mac, your other contender.
 

rtole

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Jan 25, 2014
Messages
366
A torch will be you best friend with alignment since a lot of rust will build up on northern and beach side vehicles

I live in north dakota.......a very rusty state. I use the torch exactly ZERO for parts that will be reused for automotive alignments. Changing the temper of the parts could be bad news. Other guys do I know. Since buying the fdp wrenches.......not once does the torch come out for any jamb nut.
 
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Dj.SammyOaks

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Oct 3, 2014
Messages
36
Location
Wisconsin
If you're starting out I probably wouldn't pay full price for SO (exactly double as mentioned above)...Wright makes a good wrench (wright-grip) as does Mac, your other contender.

Im not exactly 'starting out' per say, ive been in automotive for 1 year and done a few alignments, but now im in school for automotive and get the student discount so i never have to pay 'full price' :rocker:

If only there was a way to actualy hold all the wrenches at once to find what i prefer.... but thats not exactly how the world works lol
 

skylinegtr20

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Oct 6, 2010
Messages
348
I have a set of long Stahlwille Flare Nut wrenches I used to break the nuts free, they fit over the tie rods nicely and never slipped. Had up to 24mm so it covered most applications for automotive.
 

superautobacs

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Oct 31, 2008
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Location
Vancouver, BC
When the regular wrench starts to hurt the hand, the KTC adjustable wrench for tie rods/jamb nuts comes out. Works for 13mm as well.
 

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superautobacs

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If I find evidence that a pipe wrench was used on my car - you'll never see me again....

The pipe wrench comes out when other methods don't work. If it moves, then good. If it doesn't then you'll have to replace your inner/outer tie rods.




This one from Blue-point does really well on breaking free those "just-about-seized" threads. Add a pipe extension and it becomes a pipe wrench, without the unnecessary weight and clumsiness associated with standard pipe wrenches.

Image373.jpgImage376.jpg


This one should prove useful as well.

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/15451755157" title="J2014 TOP 4 by autobacs, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5616/15451755157_db077b1491_b.jpg" width="1024" height="736" alt="J2014 TOP 4"></a>

<a href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/ccassan/15452167650" title="J2014 TOP2 by autobacs, on Flickr"><img src="https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5607/15452167650_c01e2f163a_b.jpg" width="1024" height="441" alt="J2014 TOP2"></a>
 

rice rocket

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Mar 24, 2011
Messages
3,175
Jesus, I'm loosening all my nuts/bolts myself before I take my truck to get it realigned.
 
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