6togo
Well-known member
Anyone here got a lathe and might be willing to make a small steel post for a clutch pedal? It should not be very complicated for someone that knows machinery. I can supply phot's and dimensions.
Machine work needed.
- Thread starter 6togo
- Start date
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Post what you need in a sketch with dimensions.
If I may suggest, find a bolt or piece of metal shafting, cross drill it, set it to length and weld it in. Add a washer between the pedal and clutch rod, The washer does not have to be integral with the shaft unless something special is going on that I don't see.
lg
no neat sig line
lg
no neat sig line
I did a little measuring today and the hole the pin goes into is right under 1/2". .493ish so I grabbed a 1/2' bolt with a shaft and it slides in nicely with a small amount of play which is needed it don't bind. I will probably cut the bolt down and leave the head on the other side and weld then add a thick washer on the other side. Might try and find a thin bushing so it's not metal on metal but that's how GM made them.
Sounds kinda like a potential fix.
I love it when a plan comes together. And if not, there are alternatives
whateg01
Well-known member
Looks like, if you're just going to use a bolt, you could set the bolt head over the hole and do a rosette weld so it can't wobble around and waller out the hole.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-I may not have a grasp of how this functions but I'm guessing the pin diameter in the photo below has to fit through something to actuate/move something (depress piston in slave cylinder?) else, as though that pin is the pivot point of a clevis or something similar. If this is what you're going to use a bushing on I might suggest NOT using oilite bronze for the material. I tried using it once on the shift linkage of a motorcycle, perhaps similar to your application, it didn't hold up well. Oilite works great for fully rotating shafts and such where there's little side thrust against the outer diameter. My shift linkage application was only partial rotation, reversing rotation placed a side loading that exceeded the oil film strength and caused an egg-shaped hole. There are several plastics better suited for an application like that IF I understand your application. Would also advise polishing the pin surface for less abrasion to the bushing which would tend to gouge the bushing material. Just a suggestion.
Attachments
So I removed the factory shaft which was basically a press fit stamped on the back side. A 1/2" grade 8 bolt shank fit with minimum clearancing and fits the eyelet with a few thou. of clearance. I cut it to length and drilled a hole for the pin. I also found a thick grade 8 washer for the inside so once I weld it in place it should be stronger than the original shaft. The only bad part is the small bushing right above does not come out and it's some sort of plastic so care needs to be taken I'm sure they are not available!
RoninB4
Well-known member
-Sounds like what I was trying to describe in my post above. Welding the bolt in does need to match the angle of the original, likely perpendicular to the face of the arm. If the bolt is welded in at an angle, even a slight angle, will cause the assembly to function differently and possibly bind or wear the bushing prematurely. The original factory shaft was back-stamped to attach it to the arm at a defined angle (probably perpendicular) so the two parts are joined together as one.
-Stamping parts together may seem like a crude method of just smashing things together it can actually be a smart way of joining parts for relative accuracy and low cost by using reference surfaces. Substituting multiple components (bolt and washer) and then welding them all together you still have to align the reference surfaces for it to work like OEM.
-You're probably correct that the plastic bushing is not available.
-Stamping parts together may seem like a crude method of just smashing things together it can actually be a smart way of joining parts for relative accuracy and low cost by using reference surfaces. Substituting multiple components (bolt and washer) and then welding them all together you still have to align the reference surfaces for it to work like OEM.
-You're probably correct that the plastic bushing is not available.
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Might mcmaster have the bushing, friendly with someone who prints 3d?
The hole in the pedal and bolt shaft are a snug fit plus the back of the pedal surface is flat. basically push the bolt in until it bottoms and it's the correct angle. The master cylinder rod has movement as well. Hopefully the bushing makes it I'm sure that would be fun reproducing.
threepiece
Well-known member
If you use a bolt and intend to weld, don’t use greater than a grade 5. The higher grade bolts have a higher carbon content which makes sound welding difficult or impossible. Even with a clean and good penetration, welds with high grade bolts are unreliable under stress.