Machining a square question

[Skyking1992]

First off - I'm not a machinist, but I have a Bridgeport mill and a South Bend Lathe. You've helped me in the past and I enjoy learning.

I have a new Corvette Z06/Z07 being built next week. It will have Ceramic Carbon brake rotors that I understand can be delicate. I want to make some stud extenders to help taking wheels on and off without nicking the rotors.

Turning the OD of a piece of steel should be no problem. Drilling and tapping one end to match the wheel studs should also be easy. On the other end, I would like to machine a square in order to aid in getting this off the wheel stud. A hex would also work.

These are commercially available, but this is Garage Journal and I enjoy the learning challenge.

I can put the round stock in my mill vice and mill a flat. How do I accurately rotate it 90 and 180 degrees to mill the other sides?

I do not have an indexing head or a rotary table that can be mounted vertically.

Thanks for all your help for this hack amateur.

 

[Skyking1992]

Here is an example of what is commercially available:

Paragon C8 Corvette Wheel Hangers - M14x1.5 - Set of 3

www.c6performance.net

 

[whateg01]

Square or hex collet block makes it pretty easy. Without that, a 123 block or, for hex, an angle block that you can bump the part against will let you rotate the part in 60 or 90 increments. If you want to go crazy, get a sine bar and indicate the part in.

 

[BillK]

I would use aluminum like the commercial ones. Do you have a rotary table for your mill ? That is how I would cut the square or hex. I would personally prefer a hex.

Bodee 6" Horizontal and Vertical Rotary Machine Table

Shop 6" Horizontal and Vertical Rotary Machine Table from Toolots, gear ratio: 90:1, center taper MT2, height of center for vert. mounting: 3 - 15/16".

www.boltontool.com

 

[PCustoms]

I would either buy them, or if I had the desire to make chips, I would buy hex stock.

Square is going to look goofy IMHO.

Curious, do you wear white sneakers and jean shorts when you machine Corvette parts?

 

[whateg01]

I would either buy them, or if I had the desire to make chips, I would buy hex stock.

Square is going to look goofy IMHO.

Curious, do you wear white sneakers and jean shorts when you machine Corvette parts?

The hex stock has to be small enough to fit through the holes which would make it to small to thread onto the studs. Square or hex doesn't really matter since it's only on there to r/r the wheels. But square limits the tools you can use to install and remove the extenders.

 

[PCustoms]

The hex stick has to be small enough to fit through the holes which would make it to small to thread onto the studs. Square or hex doesn't really matter since it's only on the to r/r the wheels. But square limits the tools you can use to install and remove the extenders.

Now that I've read this I'm kind of questioning if what the OP describes is possible. I've seen the lug bolt kits, but never have for studs.

Edit: I see it now

 

[whateg01]

Now that I've read this I'm kind of questioning if what the OP describes is possible. I've seen the lug bolt kits, but never have for studs.

OP links some that are commercially available. They are 16mm so they fit over an m14 stud. That means they do rely on the clearance in the wheel being at least 16mm.

 

[Skyking1992]

Ha, Ha. Point taken, I'll do my best not to wear my white sneakers and jean shorts.

I am pretty excited to be getting this car. At my age, this will likely be my "forever" Corvette before they haul me off to the old folks home. It will be more than a cars and coffee car. I still regularly autocross and do some track days. And the sound of the flat plane crank is just unbelievable.

 

[PCustoms]

OP links some that are commercially available. They are 16mm so they fit over an m14 stud. That means they do rely on the clearance in the wheel being at least 16mm.

Yep I had something totally different in mind when I read OP. Was picture exactly opposite.

Carry on

 

[PCustoms]

To be different, could weld a shcs into the opposite end of the bar and then machine the OD. Internal hex/torx/whatever drive

 

[whateg01]

To be different, could weld a shcs into the opposite end of the bar and then machine the OD. Internal hex/torx/whatever drive

I've done similar but you don't even have to machine them. Just thread the end to take a screw with a smaller than 16mm diameter head. Then loctite the screw in place. I like that suggestion!

 

[Skyking1992]

Thanks all, sometimes the easiest solutions are right in front of me and I didn't see it. Drill and tap one end, install a small bolt with locktite, mission accomplished.

 

[PCustoms]

I've done similar but you don't even have to machine them. Just thread the end to take a screw with a smaller than 16mm diameter head. Then loctite the screw in place. I like that suggestion!

That would be the easy way!

Machine in a chamfer (bolt and bar), TIG them together, then cut/polish the OD and no one will ever know it's a screw...

 

[no704]

5C collet block in the mill is the way. Available pretty cheap on Amazon. If you have 5c collets. Very easy to do. Watch some This Old Tony videos on YouTube.

 

[dave*99]

Collet blocks are very handy.

Here is a cheap backwoods solution:

You are working with a long rod. You could print a degree wheel and put it on threaded end of the shaft between 2 nuts. Cut your hex on the other end on the shaft.

Another option:
You can also drill a cross hole through the shaft and slide a piece of round stock through it as a T or L handle to install or remove the shaft from the hub

 

[RoninB4]

-The hex head threaded into the end of your already tapped rod is a good suggestion, Loctite isn't needed if it's just used as an index reference. If you want a square on the end there's at least 2 ways to do that without buying additional equipment, just a little more math involved but easy to do.

 

[whateg01]

-The hex head threaded into the end of your already tapped rod is a good suggestion, Loctite isn't needed if it's just used as an index reference. If you want a square on the end there's at least 2 ways to do that without buying additional equipment, just a little more math involved but easy to do.

A bolt or machine screw in the end eliminates the need to machine that end at all other than the threaded hole.

 

[jar944]

A 5c collet spin index works well for this.

 

[RoninB4]

A bolt or machine screw in the end eliminates the need to machine that end at all other than the threaded hole.

-Perhaps so but the OP asked about cutting the flats into a piece of round stock, that's what I posted to.

 

[alfadan]

Square or hex collet block makes it pretty easy. Without that, a 123 block or, for hex, an angle block that you can bump the part against will let you rotate the part in 60 or 90 increments. If you want to go crazy, get a sine bar and indicate the part in.

This. Even a halfway decent square or something flat against the first milled flat will be more than adequate for this. The only thing to watch out for is to double check the depth of cut if you're trying to get it to a standard wrench size.
That's the most common F up for this dummy, anyway!

 

[whateg01]

This. Even a halfway decent square or something flat against the first milled flat will be more than adequate for this. The only thing to watch out for is to double check the depth of cut if you're trying to get it to a standard wrench size.
That's the most common F up for this dummy, anyway!

A collet block makes it easy to go around again to sneak up on the dimension. Or to sneak up on the next smaller dimension when you use bad math.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Saw a slot in the end for a screwdriver. If you want it pretty and to justify tools use a slotting blade in the Bridgeport, then slightly taper the approach end with the lathe.

 

[whateg01]

Saw a slot in the end for a screwdriver.

Boring!!!

 

[PCustoms]

Boring!!!

Saw two and make it a Phillips

 

[OccupantRJ]

Saw two and make it a Phillips

A true thinker!

 

[whateg01]

Saw two and make it a Phillips

Oh no. Pozidrive!

Or 3 and make it a torx! Bonus points for a security torx!

 

[OccupantRJ]

I. Am picturing a tire wrangler’s face when he is handed the guide studs along with a digital torque wrench in a velvet lined case.

 

[whateg01]

I. Am picturing a tire wrangler’s face when he is handed the guide studs along with a digital torque wrench in a velvet lined case.

As long as he has an expensive lugnut holder to put them on!

 

[PCustoms]

I. Am picturing a tire wrangler’s face when he is handed the guide studs along with a digital torque wrench in a velvet lined case.

Will the case be bespoke?

 

[nadogail]

This is Garage Journal, we just might spend $2X to make something that we could buy for $1X, just because we can.

 

[whateg01]

This is Garage Journal, we just might spend $2X to make something that we could buy for $1X, just because we can.

2x???

 

[rsanter]

Don’t over complicate things.
clamp the round stock in your chuck, mill one flat.
turn the stock over and use something to indicate the flat that is now on the bottom parallel to the table.
you can use a shaper/planer guage, 123 blocks, adjustable parallel, stack of washers….

you only need two flats for an adjustable wrench

 

[whateg01]

What about a rotary broach to make a triple square?

 

[Skyking1992]

Thanks all, as usual the Journal has come to the rescue with several ideas that will work for this novice machinist.

And yes, I will be watching any tire wrangler very closely. These ceramic rotors are about $2500 each.

 

[no704]

If you do use a 5C collet Block be sure to remove the indexing screw it can protrude and your cuts will not be square!

 

[dr.k]

Why don't you just use a wheel jack and save yourself the hassle?
I do and never as much have nicked the caliper or rotor.

 

[whateg01]

Why don't you just use a wheel jack and save yourself the hassle?
I do and never as much have nicked the caliper or rotor.

Does that work on a 2 post lift?

 

[cvairwerks]

Easiest way to do it, is turn the shaft, drill and thread the internals. Set vertically in the mill, and then mill one flat on the end of the piece, then move to the other side and mill the second flat to a convineint dimension for an open end wrench.

If you have a gorilla grip, then simply knurl the one end and forget about needing a wrench.

 

[dave*99]

If you have a gorilla grip, then simply knurl the one end and forget about needing a wrench.

I like the knurling idea. I’d add a cross hole through the shaft in case it gets stuck. Stick a screwdriver through it and twist away.