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Machining pure Tungsten?

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no704

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I imagine you are probably burning up end mills like crazy at the low feed rate. It seems counter intuitive, but cutting metal is just like digging in sun-drenched dry hard clay. The surface has been heated so it's rock hard. If you cut under it and dig in the material below then your tools cut better.

The question is whether a 3/8 end mill can handle the pressure of the higher feed rate. Sometimes it's balancing between burning them up and breaking them.
Think I might get better life out of a larger diameter tool or more flutes? I’ll probably stick with the 4 flute 3/8 as I hope I’m almost done with this job and still have a couple spares.
 
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IndyGarage

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Think I might get better life out of a larger diameter tool or more flutes? I’ll probably stick with the 4 flute 3/8 as I hope I’m almost done with this job and still have a couple spares.
I don't think the life of the tool would be any different once you have the parameters right.

You could put more power through a heavier tool without risking breaking it so you could probably still double the feedrate and it might even cut better. Of course you have to adjust the RPM to a new diameter. And you can also increase your depth of cut too - up to the point where your machine still has power or your setup is strained. Be careful doing both at the same time.

The critical number for tool heat/wear is always the feedrate through the material.

A long time ago, when I was a young engineer I learned how to set up speeds and feeds for all kinds of materials in a large aerospace factory. I became the go to guy for the stuff that was really hard to cut. The funny thing is it was a union shop so I couldn't touch the machines. I always said when I retire I was going to have a machine shop. I'm still working but I have a couple machines that I play with. Most of my knowledge is pretty outdated now.
 
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no704

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I don't think the life of the tool would be any different once you have the parameters right.

You could put more power through a heavier tool without risking breaking it so you could probably still double the feedrate and it might even cut better. Of course you have to adjust the RPM to a new diameter. And you can also increase your depth of cut too - up to the point where your machine still has power or your setup is strained. Be careful doing both at the same time.

The critical number for tool heat/wear is always the feedrate through the material.

A long time ago, when I was a young engineer I learned how to set up speeds and feeds for all kinds of materials in a large aerospace factory. I became the go to guy for the stuff that was really hard to cut. The funny thing is it was a union shop so I couldn't touch the machines. I always said when I retire I was going to have a machine shop. I'm still working but I have a couple machines that I play with. Most of my knowledge is pretty outdated now.
I can appreciate that. I’ve always been a manual machinist so I usually just go with what “feels “ right. On this project it’s so many passes on the rotab so I automated it bit. I was really struggling with this stuff on the lathe so I thought that was my best option.
Only about another 0.100 to go on this cut, then a skim cut to even out the floor. Another piece needs a 1/4x 1/4 sholder on it.
 

American Locomotive

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Hope you remembered to vacuum up all the tungsten dust. Scrap recyclers will take it.

Last company I worked for would sell their tungsten-carbide dust from tool grinding.
 
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no704

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Hope you remembered to vacuum up all the tungsten dust. Scrap recyclers will take it.

Last company I worked for would sell their tungsten-carbide dust from tool grinding.
Could have, but all is lost. Well most of it is in the shop vac. But with lots of other oil and swarf. I’m just happy that there is light at the end of this tunnel!
 
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rlitman

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So, my partner/boss just returned from attending a conference. He met a company that can 3D print and sinter this stuff for less than we payed for blanks! Yeah I don’t have to do this again!
That actually makes a lot of sense, since tungsten all starts out as powdered metal anyway. However, I would be concerned about the final density. I doubt a sintered part can match something produced under pressure.
 

mike93lx

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That actually makes a lot of sense, since tungsten all starts out as powdered metal anyway. However, I would be concerned about the final density. I doubt a sintered part can match something produced under pressure.
I feel like a containment vessel probably doesn't need to be the strongest thing out there. Or is that not the case @no704 ?
 
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no704

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I feel like a containment vessel probably doesn't need to be the strongest thing out there. Or is that not the case @no704 ?
Doesn’t need to be the strongest, but also can not fail. I just only heard about this technique. Will be interesting to dive in deeper.
 

rlitman

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I feel like a containment vessel probably doesn't need to be the strongest thing out there. Or is that not the case @no704 ?
I wasn’t even thinking about strength. I was thinking that lower density means lower shielding. What it don’t know is how much a percent or so matters. Probably not a lot, but my “probably” doesn’t cut it.
 

RoninB4

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Final death toll! I think most of these will still be useable, just not on Tungsten.
-Rough cutting edges produce rough wall finishes. That doesn't make them useless, just makes them a roughing cutter for clearance features. They're still of some use and wouldn't toss.
 
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no704

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-Rough cutting edges produce rough wall finishes. That doesn't make them useless, just makes them a roughing cutter for clearance features. They're still of some use and wouldn't toss.
Still quite smooth edges, just lost the super sharp edge.
 

RoninB4

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Still quite smooth edges, just lost the super sharp edge.
-Might just be the photo looking like some chipped corners and the odd colored patches in the flutes that appears to be grinding marks. I'll take your word for it that the edges are still smooth enough and continuous. Not my cutters and not my call anyway.

Carbide.jpg
 
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no704

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-Might just be the photo looking like some chipped corners and the odd colored patches in the flutes that appears to be grinding marks. I'll take your word for it that the edges are still smooth enough and continuous. Not my cutters and not my call anyway.

Carbide.jpg
Some are chipped for sure. I was also marking them with a silver sharpie when they were used. The $100 cbn lathe tools are for sure junk!
 
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