Machinist clamp kit measurements help!

[Leadfot]

Im going to try to making myself a few parts or a full machinist clamp kit. So if anyone can help With some info i would appreciate it alot. I dont know anyone who could lend me a kit to copy. What i overthinking alot is how tall are the steps and what angle are they cut, and what height would be most common. The Block in blue circle. I going to make the kit for the milling machine. The lathe and vice need both diffrent size t-nuts and arm/finger.

Its almost 20 years ago since i did any machining. The mill will not be used cause my VFD was bought for the lathe and is to low Power.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

The clamp kits are so cheap, why would you spend time making them?

 

[larry_g]

I'd suggest that you look at the Te-Co catalog, http://catalog.te-co.com/viewitems/step-blocks-1/step-blocks as they have drawings of some of the dimensions you desire. Study some of the other tool catalogs to find other designs. Depending on the work you do you may want to scale up or down the common sizes. I'd also say that you can make odd sized T-nuts. You may want to start with a 5/16 thread stud then make T-nuts with that thread to fit the different machines you have. Make sure you do not thread the hole through the T-nut to prevent running the stud through and breaking out the T-slot.

Notice in the above image, stolen from the internet, that the clamp bars are threaded. In the rear fixture notice the SHCS is in upside down. There are many ways to do fixtureing . Image search for fixture plate or tooling plate. There are some great and innovative solutions out there.

Good luck and have fun.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[Leadfot]

@GLTHFJ60

Many reasons. No job, and iv seen china quality. Im trying to avoid buying anything made in china if i can, but i know i will someday. I need the machining experience before i do complicate work. I will need more tools, so the money i save now will be spent later.

@Larry_g

Good idea about the tread on the t-nut. I will make sure i dont make that misstaek. Ill study the link for more ideas. Thank you.

 

[bczygan]

Are you going to black oxide them?

 

[Leadfot]

@bczygan

I dont know if i can get the stuff needed fast and cheap. And i dont realy know the processes on how to do it.

 

[bczygan]

@bczygan

I dont know if i can get the stuff needed fast and cheap. And i dont realy know the processes on how to do it.

Have it done?

 

[2oolhound]

You can get the dimensions off your T-slot table. Just don't let them stick up over the top surface. They only need enough room in the bottom channel so they can be slid around (but keep fairly tight on the sides of coarse.

Make sure you do not thread the hole through the T-nut to prevent running the stud through and breaking out the T-slot. lg

Thanks for the tip Larry, I hadn't thought of that disaster waiting to happen.

 

[racingtadpole]

Im going to try to making myself a few parts or a full machinist clamp kit. So if anyone can help With some info i would appreciate it alot. I dont know anyone who could lend me a kit to copy. What i overthinking alot is how tall are the steps and what angle are they cut, and what height would be most common. The Block in blue circle. I going to make the kit for the milling machine. The lathe and vice need both diffrent size t-nuts and arm/finger.

Its almost 20 years ago since i did any machining. The mill will not be used cause my VFD was bought for the lathe and is to low Power.

Your set up is identical to mine.. RF30 mill, and a 9" Lathe.

If you arent in a hurry, PM me, I may be able to help you with some dimensions from a clamp kit (read: its probably going to take me a couple of weeks). Although if you arent going to use your mill, its going to be a lot of work with a file

You can do black oxide at home, simply and cheaply, along with zinc and copper plating. Instructables and youtube has plenty of electroplating videos, and there is a very good write up on DIY parkerizing here in the Fab and Techniques section of the GJ. You can also just heat and oil them.

 

[Leadfot]

@bczygan

Only if i can DIY at home cheap. In the end i am the one use em.

I found one way of doing this.

I dont know if there are any kits or Chemicals i can buy cheape here. And i want to be done before the weekend.

@2oolhound

Good tips. Thank you.

@racingtadpole

Im trying to have it done before the weekend, but i Guess i have alot more question later.

I have one of this( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RDGTOOLS-...115730?hash=item56525e8d52:g:fHIAAOSwFe5XzrRt ) Im not sure if i got the right cutting tool.

Irony, i need a clamp set to make a clamp set. I have nuts and bolts and washers and an anglegrinder, so ill make something that will work.

I do have fresh and used motor oil, will i get a black Nice finish or just a protect coating? I think i can get the parts red or white hot before i drop em in oil.

Thank you.

 

[senlow]

@bczygan

I dont know if i can get the stuff needed fast and cheap. And i dont realy know the processes on how to do it.

It's not hard to do black oxide at home. I use an old school method that's known as slow rust blue. This method is quite inexpensive. I have outlined the process on GJ a few times. Just do an advanced search with my user name, and "slow rust" in the key words (search entire posts).

 

[kkroger]

Don't want to use Chinese Quality on a Chinese Mill/Drill? You can look at the clamping items at MSC or McMaster for T Slot Nuts etc. McMaster has working drawings for most items available on their website. Here is an example you can download the drawings in various formats listed there under product detail...
https://www.mcmaster.com/#94750a595/=1823jq7
https://www.mcmaster.com/#4999a28/=1823kxr
Or you could just order the product in parts, saving yourself SOME Machine time. Though it isn't quite worth the effort for the Round Column Machine.. I know I have a CNC adapted one sitting in the garage right now.

 

[Leadfot]

@senlow

I think that might be the solution for black oxide. Found a webpage for guns here in Norway. Ill go to a gun store here and see what i can find.
Thank you.

@kkroger

My mill is made in Taiwan( I know not that diffrent). There are alot more story why i try to not buy made in china. I now dont have my 1977 Classic mini cause of made in china parts. And i was not happy when my german battery Tools metabo had a lable made in china. The mill may not be the best, but still better then nothing. I dont have a steady job and dont know when i get another contract. It is just me and the dog and time, so i have time to do small Projects on my lathe and mill. And i need the experience. Its this or just play videogames all day and night.

Thanks for the links.

 

[texasranger]

When I first got my mill I needed something quick so I welded washers to the heads of 1/2" bolts and ground flats into the washers to serve as T nuts. Since then bought a Chinese clamp kit but still use the bolts to attach my vise. They're a bit of a pain to get in or out if there's ANY chips down in the slot. Need to grind another 1/8" or so off the head so they have more clearance to slide.

 

[Provincial]

Many years ago I bought a clamp set for my RF-30 mill/drill that has 3/8" studs. It works fine, and has never failed to hold the work properly. You don't need 1/2" studs for that machine.

 

[texasranger]

Many years ago I bought a clamp set for my RF-30 mill/drill that has 3/8" studs. It works fine, and has never failed to hold the work properly. You don't need 1/2" studs for that machine.

Sorry I wasn't suggesting OP to use 1/2", just that's what fit my mill and a quick way to clamp something. It's 5 HP with I believe 5/8" slots.

 

[6PTsocket]

@bczygan

I dont know if i can get the stuff needed fast and cheap. And i dont realy know the processes on how to do it.

Precision has a product. You dunk the part in their degreaser, probably any brand would work. You dunk them in their blackening chemical and they turn black. There is somtimes a white residue that rubs off with a stiff brush. They also sell a spray on rust protectant. Again, the protectant of your choice would be fine. Actually, you just need the blackener, not the whole kit. It is quite durable. If it is not black enough, dunk it again. They say it works on any ferrous metal that is not hardened but I have found few things it did not work on. The blackening occurs almost immediately.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[lilredex]

To keep your studs/nuts from breaking the slot......install an "imperfect thread" at the bottom of it when you are finished. Only need a chisel to do that.

 

[Superbec]

I'm not a machinist but I had a few mills and one lathe years ago ....

the thing is ... the fixtures sizes vary with the table you're going to use ... so for a small mill you would need small ones that fit with m6 fasteners ... they go from m6 (or lower ) to m8, m10 and m12 , maybe even larger ones but I didn't see any for sell .

really don't see any machining experience coming from this ... it's as easy as it can be a

By the time you destroy a few bits and melt some carbide planer and use all the thick stock you may have you'll be about 3-4 times the price of the chinese kits that are available and they do work

 

[OccupantRJ]

If you read my signature, you will see that I will usually give something a go, but in this case, I would suggest that you will use three times the cost of a clamp set in the expense of the end mills, metal, and such used to make them. Your choice of course.

 

[Griff93]

I'm all for making stuff but this is one of those times, buy the kit. The tooling alone will cost more than a decent kit. How are you going to cut the serrations for the hold down clamps and support blocks? Machine other stuff, projects, thinks you can't buy, etc. You will not be saving money to DIY in this instance.

 

[Willie Makeit]

I work for the only gov agency that has ever put a man on the moon. We use import clamp kits for Bridgeport-type work. Need i say more.