Made a framing mistake, easiest fix?

[pmiranda]

Cleaning up at the end of the day I realized the studs under this window are too high. I guess I’ll sawzall the nails out under the sill so I can work the studs out of the way to cut them down and hopefully get the sill out without destroying it. Any better ideas?

 

[The Cobbler]

that would work, I would probably cut the studs to the proper length , cut off the nails from the end of the plate, remove the cut off's of the studs & nail it back together

 

[Matt D.]

I’d snap a line where you want the studs to end. Factor in the sill framing, sill and any drywall or whatever. Then cut the studs, peel the sill frame off. Knock the waste off, pull the nails and reattach.

while you’re at it, throw a couple cripples under the end so you don’t see any flex.

-Matt

 

[PCustoms]

Nailed or screwed?

If screwed, unscrew.

If nailed, knock it out with your hammer. Cut any nails flush, toe nail the new shorter studs in.

And add 2 cripple as suggested above.

Honestly probably took you longer to snap a pic and post then it will to fix....

 

[Glemon]

If you want it to go real quick sacrifice the bottom plate for the window by cutting it a couple inches in from the studs on both sides, everything left will pop out with a couple hammer blows, drive out the nails, cut the studs to proper length and a new piece for the window and it will be good as new.

 

[pmiranda]

Cutting out the nails at the ends of the window sill should let me just hammer it apart and then cut the studs to length. Simple mistake I just forgot to subtract the 1.5” when cutting them. Snapped the pic on the way out. I’ll fix it in the morning before the nascar race

 

[nadogail]

I have been known to add an extra header to comensate for trimmed studs.

 

[rustyjames]

I would sawzall the ends of the sill, pull the whole assembly back and recut the studs with a circular saw. Reinstall and toenail removed studs.

 

[Dadillac]

I’d snap a line where you want the studs to end. Factor in the sill framing, sill and any drywall or whatever. Then cut the studs, peel the sill frame off. Knock the waste off, pull the nails and reattach.

while you’re at it, throw a couple cripples under the end so you don’t see any flex.

-Matt

This

Don

 

[Innovate1]

My first thought was to tack a 2x4 across the studs below where they need to be cut. Then cut the studs to needed height - you might hit the nails if you are only removing 1.5" although from the picture it looks like you need to cut them down more than that. Removing the sill looks pretty easy - pull or unscrew the fasteners. Cut them if they are nails and you have trouble getting them out. Then nail it back in new position. A cats paw is useful in removing the nails - hadn't ever heard of such a tool until a carpenter friend introduced me to it many years ago.

 

[PelicanPines]

Only other option would be to lower your floor... probably harder. I agree with the others.

 

[pmiranda]

Only other option would be to lower your floor... probably harder. I agree with the others.

LOL.. yeah, I'm not lowering the concrete floor
I cut the end nails of the upper plate, knocked it off the studs, pulled them out to trim them, and hammered everything back together in about 15 minutes.
Got the basic framing done on the wall, now I just need to add some blocking, the second top plate, and decide how I want to bolt it to the steel frame for stability until I do the other walls and upper floor joists.

 

[Bert_]

Seeing that picture I gotta ask. Why the stud wall?

 

[OCD]

Nice fix, more pics of that garage please!!

 

[pmiranda]

Stud wall to give me something to attach drywall to and mostly to carry the weight of a storage loft that was not planned in the engineered building. Doing this wall first so I can get a ductless AC above the door before summer hits hard.
Many more pics in my build thread.

 

[Bill Bowman]

Seeing that picture I gotta ask. Why the stud wall?

It looks as though he's framing in an office area in his shop. Just a guess.

 

[rburke65]

Oh I’m sure for the drywall, electrical, etc.

 

[Bert_]

Oh I’m sure for the drywall, electrical, etc.

Most just do tin or plywood right on the girts. I know it's popular here but I just don't understand drywall in a shop.

I can totally understand if it's going to be an office.

 

[pmiranda]

Yeah, break room / weekend crash pad. Opens onto a covered porch with a view of the sunset and the neighbor's cows. I predict the demise of many beers there!

 

[jetnow1]

Drywall may be required for fire protection by local officials. My garage has 5/8 drywall as it is about 6 feet from the property line.