Made a mess with expanding foam

[goodboymiso]

I'm ready to own my mistake, and get things ready for paint and flooring... What's the best way to attack this area so it's not an eyesore?

https://imgur.com/gallery/r5wZzJc

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Cut it. I'd use a razor blade or sharpen the edge of a putty knife.

 

[JP Chestnut]

Use a multi tool. I can’t spray that stuff without make it a huge mess.

 

[rlitman]

That's not a mistake. Just typical of spray foam. You even need a little over-expansion to guarantee fill.

Just cut it back more. I usually use a snap blade utility knife, but almost anything sharp cuts it.

 

[nadogail]

Welcome to the club, my first use of expanding foam was fixed with a sharp scraper, Fix All & paint.

 

[cad70]

I cant open the photo link. Depending on where it is, you could also use a hacksaw blade to level it with the area infected....

 

[bbxlr8]

Link wouldn't open but just used the Loctite "gap-fill style yesterday on some basement window well area gaps that invited yellowjackets this summer. It is definitely an art but I waited until it started to harden a bit and used paper towels to get the major overfills. going back with a knife or razor blade to clean up this weekend.

BTW - that stuff is a major pain to clean off the skin (should have used gloves). Acetone is about the only stuff that works and NOT good for your skin

 

[pancho400cid]

Nothing to add to the suggestions above.

Where I work we call expanding foam "Disaster-In-A-Can" based on similar experiences.

 

[LB-1911]

Imgur: New Workaround


Link below should open

http://i.imgur.com/eGuI8ug.jpg

 

[rlitman]

...Acetone is about the only stuff that works and NOT good for your skin

Acetone is nail polish remover. It's fine on the skin. It just dries your skin out. Use moisturizer afterwards, and don't worry. Or better yet, wear gloves, because the components in the foam are FAR more of a concern than the acetone.

Oh, and if cleanup is going to be an issue, Dap makes a latex based water cleanup spray foam. It's about as tough as shaving cream after drying, so I doubt it will keep pests out, but it will stop drafts.

 

[b-boy]

That doesn't look too bad. I'd just use a razor knife to clean it up.

I bought one of those professional foam guns. It worked great for a while. It gives you a lot more control and minimizes the mess.

There's a cleaning solvent that you run through the gun to keep it working. Mine gun lasted about a year, and finally clogged up completely. Even the solvent can't get all the crud out, and once it hardens, good luck getting it off. I used it a lot, so I feel like I got my money's worth out of it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002YOMJE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[vavet]

OMG, the guy who installed replacement windows made a far bigger mess than that. He was sleeping with my wife and wearing my underwear too, but the price was low and I gotta say, he was a handsome guy.

 

[dogdog]

I used the vibrating tool with the dull blade... works wonders if you have a lot to do. but if it is just a bit. I just used an old knife.

 

[rlitman]

I used the vibrating tool with the dull blade... works wonders if you have a lot to do. but if it is just a bit. I just used an old knife.

Yeah, a putty knife on a multi-tool is way more useful than it seems at first. It tears through thick caulk like it isn't there. But foam really doesn't take much effort to cut. A steak knife would work too.

 

[goodboymiso]

Could I attach some trim to that sill plate in order to cover the gap between it and drywall? Trying to make it less fugly when i paint.

 

[toolmiser]

That's not a mess at all. You would have to get a bunch on your skin and clothes to even qualify.

 

[16again]

Could I attach some trim to that sill plate in order to cover the gap between it and drywall? Trying to make it less fugly when i paint.

Yes, you sure can. As others have said, trim it back and just install your trim.

 

[PelicanPines]

You did not make a mistake.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

Use a multi tool. I can’t spray that stuff without make it a huge mess.

Totally agree. Use a multi-master type tool. Maybe figure out how to limit the depth of your blade.
Anyway, that is such a small problem there is no need to be embarrassed. I "own" stuff way worse than that, and just go clean it up and keep going.

 

[Lassen Forge]

That's not a mess at all. You would have to get a bunch on your skin and clothes to even qualify.

That's what I was thinking - you should see the mess I can make with that stuff, that is artistry! Hate is far too kind a word...

 

[casmurbax]

That might be a mistake to you, has others have said that really isn't anything that bad.

this is a mistake.

 

[Dagny]

Holy **** that is not funny. but I agree you are an expert.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Yeah, a putty knife on a multi-tool is way more useful than it seems at first. It tears through thick caulk like it isn't there. But foam really doesn't take much effort to cut. A steak knife would work too.

I've used a serated steak knife on foam that is thicker than a utility blade.

 

[coljar]

That's not bad at all. I get that **** all over the place every time I use it.

 

[drx2]

I have used a notched flooring troll in the past. The "teeth" act like a saw and you can place it flat against the wall to get an even surface. Worked very well.

 

[The Cobbler]

......

I bought one of those professional foam guns. It worked great for a while. It gives you a lot more control and minimizes the mess.

There's a cleaning solvent that you run through the gun to keep it working. Mine gun lasted about a year, and finally clogged up completely. ......

yes, the pro guns are great
the cleaner is acetone
you can disassemble the guns to clean them when they plug up

OP, that's not a bad mess, nor did you screw up. you have lots of ideas here on how to clean it up.

 

[PugetDude]

I use a hacksaw blade to cut foam off flush with the wall/framing. Not a hacksaw blade in a frame, just a hacksaw blade in your hands. Easy to bend for flush cuts around windows, doors, corners, etc. Takes very little effort to trim the dried foam, and doesn't "grab" and tear the foam like a razor knife.
Good luck, your pics don't look as bad of some of the foam jobs I did in the past...

 

[50pascals]

Slice that off with a razor knife and cover with drywall mud or caulk. It will hold great!

Acetone won't remove cured foam either.

When I was in the business of trying to save and rebuild our foam guns (back when they cost $80) after they clogged, I had a 5 gallon metal bucket of acetone and would soak the guns in there for a couple days. The cured foam would turn rubbery and peel off, or generally clean out.

"Gun cleaner" is futile in my opinion. And I used to buy gun foam by the pallet!

 

[rlitman]

yes, the pro guns are great
the cleaner is acetone
you can disassemble the guns to clean them when they plug up

OP, that's not a bad mess, nor did you screw up. you have lots of ideas here on how to clean it up.

I used up two cases of pro foam (the bigger cans) when I re-did my basement. For that job, I bought a pro gun, and I ended up tossing it at the end of the job, because it was no longer cleanable.

A few tips for those buying a pro gun.

- Get a gun that's teflon coated on the outside. They all have a teflon coated needle, but the exterior teflon makes it much easier to clean up.

- Get a gun that takes plastic tips, and buy a lot of tips. The nozzles not only make it easier to fill in thin cracks, but they also make cleanup much easier, and they are meant to be disposable. Let the foam dry in the tip, and just snap it off when you're ready to foam again. It keeps the foam away from the wand, and worst case, a quick scrape of the face with a fingernail will get you ready to put the next tip on.

- Be sure you have an aerosol can of cleaner. The stuff I use is a mix of acetone and ethyl acetate, and seems to work better than straight acetone. Then again, I've found that an acetone/water mix ALSO works better than straight acetone. That's what I use on rags for cleanup. Anyway, the aerorol can is the only good way to blow cleaner through the can socket. Yeah you can disassemble the rest of the gun, but the spot where the can seats, not really.

- Once you put a can of foam on the gun, don't take it off until it's empty (or until you need to run cleaner through). Even when it's empty, don't take the can off unless you put the cleaner can on. You don't want foam drying in the can mount. For that matter, you've got about a month or two of time you can leave foam safely in the gun. If you don't plan to use it in that time, you need to clean it out, and dispose of the opened foam can.

And finally, unless you plan to use a lot of foam, the pro guns don't make economic sense. I bought a 3' one for my basement job, because I was filling cracks in the floor above, and it was a great time saver. One case of foam came with a gun I still haven't used. I buy the disposable cans one at a time as I need them.

 

[b-boy]

Slice that off with a razor knife and cover with drywall mud or caulk. It will hold great!

Acetone won't remove cured foam either.

When I was in the business of trying to save and rebuild our foam guns (back when they cost $80) after they clogged, I had a 5 gallon metal bucket of acetone and would soak the guns in there for a couple days. The cured foam would turn rubbery and peel off, or generally clean out.

"Gun cleaner" is futile in my opinion. And I used to buy gun foam by the pallet!

I'll try that.

I haven't had any luck getting it working again.

Although a bucket of acetone might cost the same as a new gun.